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Masking metalizer

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DaveJr - 09 Mar 2006 03:05 GMT
Hi again folks.   I have read that you can't
mask metalizers.   Are there any ways that
you can?   On my Ridge Runner P-51, I have
to do the anti-glare portion and the red around
the front.   Getting that curve just right scares me.
I'm just trying to think ahead as I'm still working
the seems where the wings attach the fuselage.
CB - 09 Mar 2006 03:37 GMT
> Hi again folks.   I have read that you can't
> mask metalizers.   Are there any ways that
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> I'm just trying to think ahead as I'm still working
> the seems where the wings attach the fuselage.

You'll have to seal the metalizer with the Testors brand metalizer
sealer, or use future. I have never had any trouble using the metalizer
sealer.

Curtis
Al Superczynski - 09 Mar 2006 04:36 GMT
>I have read that you can't
>mask metalizers.   Are there any ways that
>you can?

    Damp newspaper or liquid mask but it's safer to paint any trim
first, mask it, and then spray metalizer.
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Al Superczynski, MFE, IPMS/USA #3795, continuous since 1968

My "From" address is munged - use 'modeleral (at) swbell (dot) net' to respond via email.

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Chuck Ryan - 09 Mar 2006 08:44 GMT
> Hi again folks.   I have read that you can't
> mask metalizers.   Are there any ways that
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> I'm just trying to think ahead as I'm still working
> the seems where the wings attach the fuselage.

Like Al said, paint non NMF colors first,  mask then apply metals.

*If* you are going to be applying multiple metals shades, the following has
worked very well for me:
1. Apply buffing Aluminum first
   buff it out completely
2. 'Dust' on another coat of buffing Aluminum, DO NOT buff out
3. Using drafting tape, burnished very lightly only to the edges, cover what
you want to stay Aluminum
   (Don't forget; before applying the tape, trim the tape edge to keep a
sharp edge)
4. Apply next buffing shade.
   buff it out completely
5. follow steps 2-4  for each addittional 'buffing' shade.
6. Apply non buffing shades, using drafting tape as masking medium per step
3.
   I lightly buff  these (even if you can't see a difference, it knocks off
the loose particles) then dust  another coat and it comes out fine in the
end
After all NMFs have been applied, remove the layers of tape, last to first.
You might see a bit of the metals come off with the drafting tape, more on
the buffed shades than the non. don't worry, that is just from the 'dust
coat'.
Lightly rebuff the buffing shades as you go

--
Chuck Ryan
Springfield OH
jwadetjpp@yahoo.com - 09 Mar 2006 16:05 GMT
Parafilm-M works nicely for me.
 
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