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Model Forum / General / Models / April 2006polyester finish
Hi all, I got a demand to finish an model with polyester. To have a better idea about the finish here is link of a picture of a chair with the required finish: http://www.metric-in.com/img/chair_detail.jpg the only thing I know is that this is an ordinary wood chair covered with... glass reinforced polyester with silk screen flower pattern... I've little or no experience with polyester finishing, so I'm looking for some place to start, book, web or other basic info that might get me on track. All info is greatly appreciated Jill Jill--You didn't mention what kind of "model" you're working on, but by the appearance of the chair and your description, it looks like a standard resin finish; surfboard and snowboard builders use the same technique. It's simply a silkscreen applique or airbrush art with a layer of clear fiberglass resin over it. It's nothing magical or mysterious; you can use two-part resin, urethane, varnish, clear lacquer, whatever, so long as all components are chemically compatible with one another. Modelers do the same thing with decals and spray a clear coat of Future floor finish or some other clear finish over them. I hope that answers your question. Michael As an afterthought, bear in mind if you use two-part resin it does create heat in the curing process Michael. you are really helpful. the model i'm working on is a boeing 737. What i do not understand is how did they get the (white) patterns so well all around the chair parts. Almost like it was done by hand. I have no exeprience at all with silk screens. is this applied later on the resin? Thanks again. Jill >Michael. you are really helpful. the model i'm working on is a boeing >737. What i do not understand is how did they get the (white) patterns [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > The pattern could be part of the polyester cloth, or airbrushed, or silk screened on plain colored polyester and then resin coated. If it were me, I would do the pattern on the polyester before wrapping it around something where the pattern would be more difficult to achieve.  SignatureBill In Hamptonburgh, NY To Email, remove the double zeroes after 'at' > Michael. you are really helpful. the model i'm working on is a boeing > 737. What i do not understand is how did they get the (white) patterns [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > Thanks again. > Jill Polyester resin by itself is a clear finish. It can be used to toughen up wood. There are far better ways to finish wood in my opinion. If all they want is a smooth surface on the wood to make it look like metal or plastic, to take a better finish, there are easier ways. Epoxy coating is an even stronger surface, but more expensive. Go to a crafts store, like Michaels. They have polyester casting resin. Mix up a bit of that, and brush it on and let it sit. A coating brushed on or squeegeed on takes far longer to cure than a casting, however, so use a little extra catalyst and wait several days before sanding it smooth. Again, I'd use an acrylic finish as someone else suggested if all they want is a smooth paintable finish. You can get acrylic finishes in spray cans. Easy to apply, it dries fast. There are also two-part acrylic finishes- wicked to apply- very toxic! Don Stauffer <stauffer@usfamily.net> wrote in news:XBK4g.11$j%3.3069 @news.uswest.net: >> Michael. you are really helpful. the model i'm working on is a boeing >> 737. What i do not understand is how did they get the (white) patterns [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > spray cans. Easy to apply, it dries fast. There are also two-part > acrylic finishes- wicked to apply- very toxic! Why not have somebody with an alps printer print the designs in white on clear decal paper, then apply them and cover them with a clear coat. Should work. We modelers do tha all the time. Cheers, Dennis > Don Stauffer <stauffer@usfamily.net> wrote in news:XBK4g.11$j%3.3069 > @news.uswest.net: [quoted text clipped - 31 lines] > > Dennis Or, if you cannot find anyone with an Alps, print out design on regular paper, take a sheet of decal paper and the printout to a copy shop and have them print design on decal paper. Works fine. >> Don Stauffer <stauffer@usfamily.net> wrote in news:XBK4g.11$j%3.3069 >> @news.uswest.net: [quoted text clipped - 36 lines] > regular paper, take a sheet of decal paper and the printout to a copy > shop and have them print design on decal paper. Works fine. Anyone try this inkjet decal paper yet? http://www.bare-metal.com/decals/decal_paper.html SignatureBill In Hamptonburgh, NY To Email, remove the double zeroes after 'at' |
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