Waterline Optional Ship Kits

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crw59@earthlink.net - 06 May 2006 15:32 GMT

with the Trumpeter Hood as an example, If you decide to go full hull,
you have to glue the red bottom hull section on to themain hull pieces?

does that mean you have to fill and make uniform around 60 inches of
seam where the pieces fit together?

Yikes.

Craig

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Mad-modeller - 07 May 2006 06:09 GMT

> with the Trumpeter Hood as an example, If you decide to go full hull,
> you have to glue the red bottom hull section on to themain hull pieces?
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Craig

Sounds like it. Yeeow!

Bill Banaszak, MFE Sr.

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Ron Smith - 07 May 2006 06:56 GMT

Yeah but I hear the Hood hull actually fits, unlike the Hornet, Essex
Class, Lexington and North Carolina hulls.

>>with the Trumpeter Hood as an example, If you decide to go full hull,
>>you have to glue the red bottom hull section on to themain hull pieces?
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
> Bill Banaszak, MFE Sr.

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Don Stauffer in Minnesota - 07 May 2006 16:30 GMT

Yes. You must make great pains when gluing bottom on to make sure it
fits properly. Many kits have an inadequate flange. Try a trial fit.
If there is any problem at all, add extra flanges and reinforcements on
one piece or other before gluing.

I add the bottom as soon as possible, and then just treat it as a one
piece hull. I do hull gluing before any painting.

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Ron Smith - 07 May 2006 20:07 GMT

Trumpeter's problem is usually worse than a simple inadequate flange.
1/16" off in length is typical and up to 1/8" in width. Given their
normal stiffeners the width problem requires at least some cutting but
then you have to rebrace with styrene spreader or you'll have worse
problems later.

> Yes. You must make great pains when gluing bottom on to make sure it
> fits properly. Many kits have an inadequate flange. Try a trial fit.
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> I add the bottom as soon as possible, and then just treat it as a one
> piece hull. I do hull gluing before any painting.

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Don Stauffer - 08 May 2006 14:20 GMT

> Trumpeter's problem is usually worse than a simple inadequate flange.
> 1/16" off in length is typical and up to 1/8" in width. Given their
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>> I add the bottom as soon as possible, and then just treat it as a one
>> piece hull. I do hull gluing before any painting.

The width problem is warpage (at least it was in my case). I added
supports between the sides to bring it back out to full width.

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Ron Smith - 08 May 2006 15:25 GMT

>> Trumpeter's problem is usually worse than a simple inadequate flange.
>> 1/16" off in length is typical and up to 1/8" in width. Given their
>> normal stiffeners the width problem requires at least some cutting but
>> then you have to rebrace with styrene spreader or you'll have worse
>> problems later.

> The width problem is warpage (at least it was in my case). I added
> supports between the sides to bring it back out to full width.

I was referring to their typical hull fit problem which is present on
the 1/350 Hornet, Lexington, Essex Class and North Carolina hulls. It's
not warpage, it's parts that are not the same size where they meet. This
has been a bugaboo for Trumpeter from day one. Trying to force the fit
on any of them, especially Lexington can lead to warpage and deck fit
problems later. With the engineering available today there is no excuse
for it.

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Model Forum / General / Models / May 2006

Waterline Optional Ship Kits