Model Forum / General / Models / May 2006

i use white, but im a sh.t moddeler so dont listen to what i say...

Evercoat polyester glazing putty, Spies-Hecker Permacron 7715, Tamiya
basic putty, Squadron white, Testors red, Tamiya polyester putty. Only
the two polyester putties can be worked as soon as the putty is cured on
plastic. The other putties are all solvent based and even if the putty
seems dry the plastic still has to reharden and it's best to wait overnight.

willshak a utilisé son clavier pour écrire :

I use finishing epoxy putty for real cars. That's a lot chepaer than
the putty for modellers and very efficient. It is possible to make it
more sweet with acetone...

Elmer's Fill 'n' Finish mostly..

I use Squadron white,Model Master red,and Tamiya basic,depending on my
mood.
If you use a lot of modeling go to an auto parts store and check out
the selection.It would be enough for years and cheaper too.

If you need to fill and sand in a hurry, use gap filling superglue
(like Zap a Gap), the type that has the consistency of honey.
Accelerator makes it workable immediately. A couple of caveats, though.
If you want to fill a deep area, apply the accelerator before you apply
the glue, or it will foam up and harden into a mess. Secondly, do your
cutting, filing, and sanding immediately after it sets up. At that time
it has a consistency similar to plastic. After an hour or so, it
actually becomes harder than plastic and you will be unable to feather
it into the surrounding styrene. It has some great advantages--it
doesn't crumble and it is very tenacious--you can even restore chipped
edges on thin surfaces like a wing's trailing edge, something you could
never do with putty.
Gerald Owens

The original formulation of Squadron green putty was fantastic...then
they went and mucked with it...

Then I used Dr. Microtools red putty...it was great.  Now you can't get
it any more.

Now I use Tamiya putty. Love it.  Dries a bit quicker, is very easy to
sand and very fine grained.  Works well with Scotchbrite.  Give it a try.

Milliput is my first stop when filling is required.  A two-part epoxy,
it does not soften the kit plastic at all, but still sticks to it well.
 Using the Superfine (white) I have had good results filling panel
lines and feathering edges when filling sink-holes.  It's workable for
about 30 minutes after mixing, and is very amenable to shaping and
feathering with a wet spatula or cotton bud.  Sets after a couple of
hours at most, can then be filed, drilled or scribed.

Tamiya Polyester Putty
Glazing and Spot Putty - dirt cheap from the auto supply store
Milliput - both Standard and Superfine

Art

I use automotive spot putty (now generally called glazing putty in auto
parts stores). It is much cheaper than hobby shop putty, but basically
same stuff. One must buy it in large tubes, but these large tubes will
last a long time (if you remember to put cap back on :-)   ).

If it is taking it "days to dry", then you are using *way*
too much, and *way* too thick, as well.

Personally, I prefer Testors Red Putty, or its equivalent,
Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty.  Thin it down with Testors
Liquid Cement, to the cliched "consistency of milk".  Brush
it on in thin coats.  It shrinks very little this way; and
is dry in under an hour.

I use Tamiya putty BUT since I started taking more care with my prefitting I
find I only use Mr Surfacer 500 and 1000 now - and they are great.