Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us
Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network
Home
Discussion Groups
General
ModelsRailroadsRockets
Radio Controlled
Air ModelsHelicoptersLand ModelsWater Models
ModelGeeks.com
Contact UsLink To UsSearch & Site Map

Model Forum / General / Models / May 2006



Tip: Looking for answers? Try searching our database.

Removing Chrome

Thread view: 
Enable EMail Alerts  Start New Thread
Thread rating: 
Jim - 23 May 2006 06:05 GMT
Hello all - I received the help call that's printed below from a friend.
 Basically it says it all including the fact that it probably isn't our
common out of the bottle or spray can chrome paint.

[[any idea on how to remove chrome paint?  Actually I think it is
electroplated on?  Tried EasyOff oven cleaner and even laquer thinner on
this diecast metal fuselage but no luck!]]

Any thoughts or hints appreciated.

    Cheers and thanks.   Jim.
Flying Frog - 23 May 2006 06:55 GMT
Le 23/05/2006, Jim a supposé :
> Hello all - I received the help call that's printed below from a friend.  
> Basically it says it all including the fact that it probably isn't our common
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
>     Cheers and thanks.   Jim.

Hi Jim,

To remove the chrome it is necessary to soak parts some minutes in some
bleach. It is really very simple.

Signature

Chris
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Walkarounds & Scale modelling Portal: http://www.ffsmc.com
Sites partenaires: Nikon France (http://www.nikon.fr) et Plus2PC
(http://www.plus2pc.com)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Jim - 23 May 2006 13:39 GMT
> To remove the chrome it is necessary to soak parts some minutes in some
> bleach. It is really very simple.

******    Great.  I've passed your method along and he'll try it tonight
when he gets home from work.

    Thank you very much - Merci -  cheers -  Jim.
Don McIntyre - 23 May 2006 14:41 GMT
You could also try soaking the parts in Brake Fluid.
Using bleach, you may need to let sit overnight, scrub the parts with a
toothbrush, then soak again, repeat as required.
Flying Frog - 23 May 2006 14:50 GMT
Don McIntyre vient de nous annoncer :
> You could also try soaking the parts in Brake Fluid.
> Using bleach, you may need to let sit overnight, scrub the parts with a
> toothbrush, then soak again, repeat as required.

No Don, only 5 minutes to remove chrome with good quality (and pure)
bleach... and toothbrush isn't necessary... Did you try that solution?

Brake Fluid is better for paints... but there is even better: the
liquid  based of caustic soda used to uncork channeling in houses, but
attention, it is a very dangerous product (except for models)...

Signature

Chris
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Walkarounds & Scale modelling Portal: http://www.ffsmc.com
Sites partenaires: Nikon France (http://www.nikon.fr) et Plus2PC
(http://www.plus2pc.com)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Jim - 23 May 2006 14:55 GMT
> You could also try soaking the parts in Brake Fluid.
> Using bleach, you may need to let sit overnight, scrub the parts with a
> toothbrush, then soak again, repeat as required.

*******    Good thoughts Don - thank you.  I've passed your suggestion
along.  Too bad we have to wait until tonight or longer to get the
results back.

    Cheers - Jim.
Flying Frog - 23 May 2006 14:46 GMT
Jim a formulé ce mardi :
>> To remove the chrome it is necessary to soak parts some minutes in some
>> bleach. It is really very simple.
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
>     Thank you very much - Merci -  cheers -  Jim.

You're welcome Jim. You will see, my solution works very well. Notice:
You have to use the bleach pure, not diluted and the chrome is removed
very quickly. 5 minutes are the good time generally. Naturally, you
have to perfectly clean and rinse your parts after that.

Cheers

Signature

Chris
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Walkarounds & Scale modelling Portal: http://www.ffsmc.com
Sites partenaires: Nikon France (http://www.nikon.fr) et Plus2PC
(http://www.plus2pc.com)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Jim - 23 May 2006 14:57 GMT
> You're welcome Jim. You will see, my solution works very well. Notice:
> You have to use the bleach pure, not diluted and the chrome is removed
> very quickly. 5 minutes are the good time generally. Naturally, you have
> to perfectly clean and rinse your parts after that.

*******    Got it.  I've already sent your update information to Peter.
I'll let everyone know how it goes.

Many thanks.  cheers - Jim.
Flying Frog - 23 May 2006 15:58 GMT
Jim avait soumis l'idée :

>> You're welcome Jim. You will see, my solution works very well. Notice: You
>> have to use the bleach pure, not diluted and the chrome is removed very
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Many thanks.  cheers - Jim.

Oops, sorry Jim. I just read the thread again, and I hadn't saw it was
about can chrome... I thought it was about plate chrome as you can find
it on parts in the boxes. Arghhh my bad English!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

For paints or chrome from can, use the liquid  based of caustic soda
used to uncork channeling in houses. It works great, but that's
dangerous for eyes and hands... So take care...

Signature

Chris
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Walkarounds & Scale modelling Portal: http://www.ffsmc.com
Sites partenaires: Nikon France (http://www.nikon.fr) et Plus2PC
(http://www.plus2pc.com)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Jim - 23 May 2006 16:34 GMT
> Oops, sorry Jim. I just read the thread again, and I hadn't saw it was
> about can chrome... I thought it was about plate chrome as you can find
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> used to uncork channeling in houses. It works great, but that's
> dangerous for eyes and hands... So take care...

*******    Ok.  Peter will probably try all methods until one works or
nothing works.  All good ideas though.  In reality I'm not even sure it
is 'chrome' from a can.  It may be electroplate or some other commercial
method of producing a metal finish on a die-cast metal body.  Hmmmmmmm?

    Thanks much again.   cheers - Jim.
Flying Frog - 23 May 2006 17:29 GMT
> *******    Ok.  Peter will probably try all methods until one works or nothing
> works.  All good ideas though.  In reality I'm not even sure it is 'chrome'
> from a can.  It may be electroplate or some other commercial method of
> producing a metal finish on a die-cast metal body.  Hmmmmmmm?
>
>     Thanks much again.   cheers - Jim.

For electrplate, bleach is the only non destructive and very quick
method I know... Good luck to your friend ;o)

Signature

Chris
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Walkarounds & Scale modelling Portal: http://www.ffsmc.com
Sites partenaires: Nikon France (http://www.nikon.fr) et Plus2PC
(http://www.plus2pc.com)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Stephen Tontoni - 23 May 2006 23:38 GMT
> > Oops, sorry Jim. I just read the thread again, and I hadn't saw it was
> > about can chrome... I thought it was about plate chrome as you can find
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
>     Thanks much again.   cheers - Jim.

Many of the paint applications on die-cast may be baked on or some sort
of lacquer that is more resistant to chemical removal. Depending on
that, you (or your friend) may be better off sanding the metal finish
smooth and simply priming over it.

I have a similar situation with a Burago car that I thought would be fun
to strip and paint. Solvents won't touch the finish, so I'll have to
sand it down, then prime over that. Some day!

--- Stephen
Jim - 23 May 2006 23:51 GMT
> Many of the paint applications on die-cast may be baked on or some sort
> of lacquer that is more resistant to chemical removal. Depending on
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> to strip and paint. Solvents won't touch the finish, so I'll have to
> sand it down, then prime over that. Some day!

*******    Oh oh!  That's a distinct possibility - I haven't seen the beast
in question but it's beginning to sound like your Burago.  I'll forward
your comments and we'll see what happens.  I'll ask him if sanding is
possible in this instance or is there some consideration preventing such
an action.  We'll see.
    Cheers and thank you for the input.   Jim.
Al Superczynski - 26 May 2006 03:44 GMT
>Many of the paint applications on die-cast may be baked on or some sort
>of lacquer that is more resistant to chemical removal.

    Aircraft stripper will *nuke* _any_ paint finish on a diecast.
But it's nasty stuff so pay close attention to all the precautions on
the label.
Signature

Al Superczynski, MFE, IPMS/USA #3795, continuous since 1968

My "From" address is munged - use 'modeleral (at) swbell (dot) net' to respond via email.

Check out my want lists and eBay listings at "Al's Place":
http://home.swbell.net/arfunguy/index.html
"Build what YOU like, the way YOU want to,
and the critics will flame you every time."

Stephen Tontoni - 26 May 2006 05:47 GMT
> >Many of the paint applications on die-cast may be baked on or some sort
> >of lacquer that is more resistant to chemical removal.
>
>      Aircraft stripper will *nuke* _any_ paint finish on a diecast.
> But it's nasty stuff so pay close attention to all the precautions on
> the label.

Good call Al; I regularly google MSDS's on stuff that I'm not familiar
with. You can also ask for the MSDS when you buy it; an industrial
supply will have it but the local Wal-Mart or whatever may not. To our
non-US friends, the MSDS is a Material Safety Data Sheet, courtesy of
OSHA (Occupational Safety and Health Administration).

Whatever the chemical or product is, if it's available in the US, you
can probably find an MSDS on it, and the information is GOLDEN. Learn
how to use these solvents safely etc etc etc.

It appears that aircraft stripper can contain methylene chloride,
although it may not. In any case, here's the MSDS on it (a good example):

http://www.denison.edu/sec-safe/safety/msds/methylen.html

--- Stephen
Don Stauffer - 26 May 2006 15:19 GMT
I've had good luck painting directly over chrome (actually aluminum).  I
use Krylon primer that has a pretty good tooth. It works fine, and you
can then paint enamel over the Krylon.

BTW, first tried Krylon primer over a decade ago 'cause it was touted so
much on this group.  Used it ever since.
Peter W. - 24 May 2006 07:09 GMT
For additional info check few more therads:

http://tinyurl.com/ker2n
http://tinyurl.com/e8zug

And if you search r.m.s. for "removing chrome" I'm sure you'll find
even more info.

Peteski
Jim - 25 May 2006 05:11 GMT
> For additional info check few more therads:
> http://tinyurl.com/ker2n
> http://tinyurl.com/e8zug

*******    Very, very interesting for sure.  Thanks Peter.
 
Sign In
Join
My Latest Posts
My Monitored Threads
My Blog
My Photo Gallery
My Profile
My Homepage

Start New Thread
Enable EMail Alerts
Rate this Thread



©2009 Advenet LLC   Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.