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difference in types of plastic model cement NON CA

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Bruce Apple - 14 Jun 2006 10:27 GMT
There was a posting here on RMS a few months ago that has eluded my search.
Someone posted the difference in various types of cement products, such as
Tenax, Ambroid, Tamiya Extra thin, Testors and Weldon and so on relative to
the chemical base for each type of cement, being MEK, methyl chloride (sp)
or what ever the flavor of the month might be.  I have solved the
evaporation from the container by using Teflon tape around the thread of the
cap, but continue to have trouble with some of the cements evaporating off
the brush before I can get enough on the airplane to get a bond.
Thanks in advance for your time and assistance in curing my ignorance.
Regards,
Bruce Apple
Harro de Jong - 14 Jun 2006 11:32 GMT
bapple@cfl.rr.com (Bruce Apple) wrote in
<iEQjg.12415$7G2.3869@tornado.tampabay.rr.com>:

>I have solved the
>evaporation from the container by using Teflon tape around the thread of
>the cap, but continue to have trouble with some of the cements
>evaporating off the brush before I can get enough on the airplane to get
>a bond.

Good heavens, what sort of cement are you using that this is a problem?

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Harro de Jong
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Greg - 15 Jun 2006 01:58 GMT
>Good heavens, what sort of cement are you using that this is a problem?

Tenax will do that. It makes a great weld IF you can get enough on the
joint quickly without being sloppy. The downside to solvents that
don't evaporate as quickly is that they also take longer to diffuse
back out of the plastic. This is one of the causes of the continually
sinking joint often seen on vac kits.

Greg Reynolds, IPMS
Kevin(Bluey) - 15 Jun 2006 16:01 GMT
>>Good heavens, what sort of cement are you using that this is a problem?
>
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Greg Reynolds, IPMS

Living in a warm/hot tropical environment where we have ceiling fans in
every room to keep air movement to an acceptable level makes the use of
Tenax almost impossible because of rapid evaporation. So I bought a few
of Micromarks' glue applicators which work very well indeed .
They consist of a glass tube with a hypodermic needle cemented in one
end ,you fill by placing the glass tube into the Tenax bottle with the
needle facing upwards and the Tenax climbs the tube by capillary action,
you then invert the tube so the needle faces downward and the Tenax
flows to the needle end and tiny a droplet appears at the needle end
allowing you to run the Tenax along the prepared joint.If you lay the
flow applicator down flat the Tenax stops flowing ,so you can pick it up
and start again when you are ready for the next joint.It can be left
flat on the bench for a long time and still contain the Tenax.

The only problem I have had is minute pieces of plastic getting into the
needle and blocking it .I have solved this problem by getting a plastic
syringe and cutting the nozzle to fit the glass tube ,I place the needle
end into the syringe and flush/inject water through it to clear the
blockage. They also break easily if dropped.

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Kevin (Bluey)
"I'm not young enough to know everything."

bluey69@westnet.com.au

Kevin(Bluey) - 15 Jun 2006 16:14 GMT
>>Good heavens, what sort of cement are you using that this is a problem?
>
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Greg Reynolds, IPMS

Forgot to add ,it's called the "Touch and Flow" applicator.

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Kevin (Bluey)
"I'm not young enough to know everything."

bluey69@westnet.com.au

willshak - 14 Jun 2006 11:44 GMT
> There was a posting here on RMS a few months ago that has eluded my
> search. Someone posted the difference in various types of cement
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> Regards,
> Bruce Apple

Testors did have a Plastic Model Cement Pen. I have one that was stored
away for 25 years and it is still good. It looks like a felt tip marker
but has a metal cannister and a hard plastic material tip. It contains
toluol and don't know if they still sell it./ /

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Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To Email, remove the double zeroes after 'at'

 
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