Hi. I sanded some plastic parts quickly with some 600 grit sandpaper to
remove a small seem. Then I washed and dried them before spraying them
with Tamiya lacquer, but I noticed that where I had sanded, the paint
didn't take very well, and it took some extra coats.
Now I'm sanding some other parts, and I've used 600, then 1000, then
2000 with water, but it still seems to have slight velvety or matte
layer that I can buff off with my finger nails. I'm guessing this
"fuzz" was what caused the paint to not stick properly.
What's the proper way to sand plastic before painting?
Thanks, Justin.
Enzo Matrix - 13 Jul 2006 20:25 GMT
> Hi. I sanded some plastic parts quickly with some 600 grit sandpaper
> to remove a small seem. Then I washed and dried them before spraying
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> What's the proper way to sand plastic before painting?
Seems to me that you're doing it just fine. The problem may lie with the
fact that you are not priming the plastic before painting.
Try using a model primer or, as I do, a thin spray of cellulose car primer.

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Enzo
I wear the cheese. It does not wear me.
e - 13 Jul 2006 20:57 GMT
>Hi. I sanded some plastic parts quickly with some 600 grit sandpaper to
>remove a small seem. Then I washed and dried them before spraying them
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
>Thanks, Justin.
i use the disposable nail buffers to remove that. find a 4
way and use the shine edge.
at your cosmetics counter.
WmB - 13 Jul 2006 21:30 GMT
> Hi. I sanded some plastic parts quickly with some 600 grit sandpaper to
> remove a small seem. Then I washed and dried them before spraying them
> with Tamiya lacquer, but I noticed that where I had sanded, the paint
> didn't take very well, and it took some extra coats.
Primer. Thou must prime before painting. Not only for its paint adherance
but the primer will also help to reveal flaws in the prepared surface that
might require further attention with the sandpaper or filler before you lay
on your topcoat(s).
WmB
Ron Smith - 13 Jul 2006 23:06 GMT
Not just prime but one must also wash the parts, I recommend Westley's
Blechewhite tire cleaner.
>>Hi. I sanded some plastic parts quickly with some 600 grit sandpaper to
>>remove a small seem. Then I washed and dried them before spraying them
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> WmB
Greg - 14 Jul 2006 02:24 GMT
First, one basic question: WHAT are you sanding?
You mention "fuzz", which is typical of sanding vinyl kits. I don't
know how builders deal with that problem.
Resin can also be problematic. Often the surface of resin parts is
hard and smooth while the interior can be softer and appear porous. In
such cases, a thin coat of superglue, sanded and polished, can
re-seal the surface.
If you are sanding styrene, 600 grit should be just fine - especially
if you are using matte paints. Gloss and silver may require higher
grits depending on your painting technique.
I suspect the problem is with the "washing" step. You need to remove
not just the sanding dust, but also the mold release and finger oil.
Hot water and detergent (not soap) followed by a nice alcohol wipe
works well. An old toothbrush, toothpicks and cropped acid brushes are
very helpful in scrubbing all the debris out of the nooks and
crannies.
And yes, a primer coat is always an excellent idea. Find the boo-boos
BEFORE you get serious.
Greg Reynolds, IPMS
>Hi. I sanded some plastic parts quickly with some 600 grit sandpaper to
>remove a small seem. Then I washed and dried them before spraying them
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
>Thanks, Justin.
soupisgoodfood - 14 Jul 2006 07:16 GMT
I'm sanding styrene. I used hot water with detergent, but I just wiped
it. I should probably have used a toothbrush.
Yeah, as others have mentioned, I will use a primer for the more
important parts of the kit (the Academy 1:48th CH-53E, incase anyone
was wondering).
I assume a flat, light or medium gray Tamiya acyrlic is OK as a primer?
Thanks, Justin.
> First, one basic question: WHAT are you sanding?
>
[quoted text clipped - 35 lines]
> >
> >Thanks, Justin.
Ron Smith - 14 Jul 2006 07:59 GMT
> Resin can also be problematic. Often the surface of resin parts is
> hard and smooth while the interior can be softer and appear porous. In
> such cases, a thin coat of superglue, sanded and polished, can
> re-seal the surface.
Only on crappy resin kits, properly done resin is monolithic.
> I suspect the problem is with the "washing" step. You need to remove
> not just the sanding dust, but also the mold release and finger oil.
> Hot water and detergent (not soap) followed by a nice alcohol wipe
> works well. An old toothbrush, toothpicks and cropped acid brushes are
> very helpful in scrubbing all the debris out of the nooks and
> crannies.
Detergent and alcohol do not work well enough on some of the resins now
being used (Smooth-On resins in particular, usually white or grey in
color). A detergent and toothbrush wash is a good idea to get
particulates off the surface but you need a silicone stripper like
Westley's Blechewhite tire cleaner to really get rid of the mold release.
Don Stauffer - 14 Jul 2006 14:46 GMT
> Hi. I sanded some plastic parts quickly with some 600 grit sandpaper to
> remove a small seem. Then I washed and dried them before spraying them
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
> Thanks, Justin.
I usually prime surfaces before painting. I use Krylon sandable primer.
I learned to use it a number of years ago based on recommendations
from this list, and use it exclusively now, though I am sure there are
other primers that are good.
Also, did you wash with soap and water, or just water. If you used soap,
you MUST rinse thoroughly to remove any trace of soap/detergent film.