Why not make real decals? I use the blank paper sold by Micro Mark.
For black decals I use my laser printer. For colored ones I take a
color printout from my inkjet, and a blank sheet of decal paper, to
copy shop to have them transfer the image to the decal paper.
Decal paper is 'softer', and will go around compound curves better than
tape.
> Why not make real decals? I use the blank paper sold by Micro Mark.
> For black decals I use my laser printer. For colored ones I take a
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> Decal paper is 'softer', and will go around compound curves better than
> tape.
Don,
Antique radios of the 1930s often were not covered with real wood
veneer. They had a photo print which we call photofinish on them Some
had real veneer on the radio, but also had decorative photofinish
strips on them of very exotic woodgrains.
For instance a couple Zeniths of that era had 1" wide Zebrawood strips
on them. One is 20" long.
The only 11" x 17" decal paper I have found is Lazertran's. Trouble is,
this paper will only work on older copiers that used silicon in the
copy process. Silicon can cause serious problems for lacquer.
I bought some 8" x 11" decal paper for laser printers, but all three
places I went to refused to run decal paper through their printers.
That's why I'm looking at the tape.
Stewart
Don Stauffer in Minnesota - 29 Jul 2006 15:46 GMT
> > Why not make real decals? I use the blank paper sold by Micro Mark.
> > For black decals I use my laser printer. For colored ones I take a
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> For instance a couple Zeniths of that era had 1" wide Zebrawood strips
> on them. One is 20" long.
Ah! I assumed the decal was only for the logo and controls ID. That is
all I have ever used decals for on a radio. I didn't realize it was the
case finish itself that you are doing.
> The only 11" x 17" decal paper I have found is Lazertran's. Trouble is,
> this paper will only work on older copiers that used silicon in the
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Stewart