Model Forum / General / Models / August 2006

Hello Maciek,

I found brass kinda hard to handle at first too.
But I found out that that you will need one or twoo good quality needle
nose pliers like these:
www.mpja.com/productview.asp?product=15396+TL

And you have to "anneal" the coper or brass parts.
This is done rather easily.
You take the part you want to bend. Grip it with a pair of pliers
(small) and heat the part over the flame of a cigarette lighteruntil you
see the part change colour to a silverish colour.
Pleas practice on some scrap brass/copper.
Do not use a candle or a zippo lighter because you will end up with very
nasty blackened parts.

I would also advice to buy very sharp pointed tweezers like these:
http://www.jawadis.com/TweezersPliers.htm
Or take tweezers you already have and file and sand it to a very sharp
point.

For the rest there is a lot of practise with it, bt in the end the
result is worth it.

And remember you DON'T have to use all the parts in an etch set.

I hope this helps

Dennis Loep

It does take some practice.  I use the gel version of super glue- I find
it a little easier.  I have to constantly wipe my tweezers clean.  I
have learned not to blow at my workbench to clean dust and scraps away
while I have photo etched brass out, and not to cough or sneeze at the
bench :-)  I also find working with PE is easier on a humid day than a
dry one- the brass seems to be affected by static electricity.  I have
done a model ship with a PE accessory package.  There were dozens of PE
parts, and doing that ship I finally got the hang of it.

Awhile ago I bought a very good set of needle-nozed tweezers from a
retiring dentist.  Such high grade tweezers are essential to working
with PE.

Maybe you just bit off a bit more than you should have to start with.  I
started into using etched parts with simple things like seat belt
buckles when I was a teenager...now I regularly fold and form complex
etched parts without any special tools.  Granted, I also have some
metalsmithing background, but even so I took some years to gain the
skills with etched parts that I have now - so don't get discouraged.

I think it probably would have been better for you to get a kit you
want, and then choose an etch set for it that you think you can deal
with - I like the Eduard line myself.  That way, you can look over the
etched parts to see if they look like you can work with them vice
opening a kit and sweating it out...

Tip - one thing I've learned about dealing with small etched parts is
not to try to move, hold, bend, etc. them with your fingers.  Use a tool
- a needle in a pin vise, tweezers, a toothpick, whatever - to prod,
poke, and position.  If you use a very sharp needle you can even "stick"
parts to pick them up without doing noticable damage to the part.

I also use both thick CA glue and watch crystal cement to attach etched
parts depending on where they go.  Both types of glue have slightly
longer working times.  Postition the part, and then use a needle (my
favorite CA applicator - some use the eye end, I just place a drop on
the sharp end) to bleed glue between the part and the plastic.

I also very rarely paint etched parts prior to attachment - glue them
directly to bare plastic for best results.  Then trim, file, paint as
required.

- Take a small bit of modeling clay or UHU-tack to something heavy that
won't move, like your working table or cutting mat;

- assemble the parts on the bit of clay, WITHOUT any glue; if possible,
place the parts so that the clay holds them in place without touching
the glueing areas

- once you're satisfied with the relative position of the parts, use a
tiny loop of fine wire to flow some extra-thin superglue in the joints
between the etched parts. Capillarity will do the rest.

Don't despair, brass can be bent back into shape and superglue cleans
quite easily, even from the tiny parts.

Try my how to CD,  "Working With Photo Etched Parts".  It has lots of
full color photos and answers just about every question you can think
of concerning photo etched parts.  Check it out at: flagshipmodels.com

Rusty White
Flagship Models Inc.
flagshipmodels.com