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Seam / Gap filling

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Count DeMoney - 30 Nov 2006 19:52 GMT
I've been using gap filling CA glue on a current project to fill some
seams.  This stuff really gets hard and is difficult to sand near
detail that I don't want to remove.  Is there a better way to deal with
this or a better CA glue to use in this situation?
Rufus - 30 Nov 2006 20:14 GMT
> I've been using gap filling CA glue on a current project to fill some
> seams.  This stuff really gets hard and is difficult to sand near
> detail that I don't want to remove.  Is there a better way to deal with
> this or a better CA glue to use in this situation?

I like Tamiya putty.  As good as the Squadron stuff used to be...if not
better.

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     - Rufus

patrick antoni - 30 Nov 2006 20:46 GMT
Salute !
Here's a little trick. I don't know whether it's been discussed before here,
but here goes anyway : tape off the model as close to the seams as possible.
Fill up with putty or even better : Bison woodglue ( it needs a few
applications in that case, but it sands away real nice nicely. ). Let it
harden. Go buy yourself nailpolishremover, but make sure it is a variety
without aceton in it !!!!! Pull away the tape. Wash away the putty with the
polishremover. Easy as singing out of key.

Trikke
>> I've been using gap filling CA glue on a current project to fill some
>> seams.  This stuff really gets hard and is difficult to sand near
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> I like Tamiya putty.  As good as the Squadron stuff used to be...if not
> better.
crw59@earthlink.net - 30 Nov 2006 22:52 GMT
> Salute !
> Here's a little trick. I don't know whether it's been discussed before here,
> but here goes anyway : tape off the model as close to the seams as possible.
> Fill up with putty or even better :> >>

that little bit took me around 30 years to figure out. so damn simple
but it eluded my
feeble mind for decades..

Craig
AM - 30 Nov 2006 23:06 GMT
>> Salute !
>> Here's a little trick. I don't know whether it's been discussed before here,
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> Craig

Yup, I am using the Tamiya putty more and more
and in this way. It and Milliput are soooo nice
ti use.

Still, with CA, (superglue) the *trick* is....
Put it on, and apply a dab on some spare useless
material. (I use piece of tape) Every 60 seconds
or so, check the sample piece and see  how hard
it is. It will within minutes reach a point where
it is easily sandable, and workable.. Now go sand
the model parts, and you will be surprised at how
easy it is. You get a fine and well feathered edge
this way. In the space of less than an hour, you
can get four or five sanded coats down if you have
to. Worse comes to worse, needle files work on
hardened superglue...

Now for for very small surface blemishes, the Tamiya
polyester putty is the better way to go. The CA
can, eventually crack, or pop off the surface under
a minor (I know whats that) loading. The putty
becomes part of the plastic and takes time and stress
well. (IMHO)

AM
AM - 30 Nov 2006 23:09 GMT
> Still, with CA, (superglue) the *trick* is....
> Put it on, and apply a dab on some spare useless
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> to. Worse comes to worse, needle files work on
> hardened superglue...

BTW, just to give credit where credit is due here...

I got this trick off someone here on r.m.s back in
1998 or thereabouts. Just passing it on,thats all.

:)

AM
Kevin(Bluey) - 01 Dec 2006 06:22 GMT
> Salute !
> Here's a little trick. I don't know whether it's been discussed before here,
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> Trikke

Tamiya putty works the same and cleans off with nail polish remover and
a cotton tip, even after weeks of being applied .Negates hours of
sanding and saves the details close by.

Signature

Kevin (Bluey)
"I'm not young enough to know everything."

bluey69@west.net.com.au

Ron Smith - 01 Dec 2006 07:50 GMT
> Tamiya putty works the same and cleans off with nail polish remover and
> a cotton tip, even after weeks of being applied .Negates hours of
> sanding and saves the details close by.

Tamiya basic putty and Mr. Surfacer both work like that but faster using
Mr. Color thinner.
Willshak - 30 Nov 2006 21:56 GMT
> I've been using gap filling CA glue on a current project to fill some
> seams.  This stuff really gets hard and is difficult to sand near
> detail that I don't want to remove.  Is there a better way to deal with
> this or a better CA glue to use in this situation?
>
>  

I haven't tried this yet, but it sounds promising. Cures in 1 minute in
the Sun, or 2 minutes under fluorescent light.
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=87076

Signature

Bill
in Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, delete the double zeroes after @

Peter W. - 01 Dec 2006 06:10 GMT
> I've been using gap filling CA glue on a current project to fill some
> seams.  This stuff really gets hard and is difficult to sand near
> detail that I don't want to remove.  Is there a better way to deal with
> this or a better CA glue to use in this situation?

Sounds like you are waiting too long to sand.  If you use CA glue and
accelerator, you can sand it within few minutes of it setting. That way
it is still just as soft (or softer) than styrene or resin.  If you
wait several hours or days, CA cures harder than styrene.

Other than that, CA is valid to use for gap filling.  Personally, I
don't like (or use) any putties.

Peteski
 
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