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Model Forum / General / Models / December 2006Little advice on assembly?
Hi all! Been lurking here for a few days... I've been scale modeling off and on for about 15 years now and I'm quite comfortable with most facets of the hobby, although my 'perfectionist' side has only come out to play these past few years. ;) I've recently started a Revell A340 Airbus model, and I'm ready for the final assembly. The fuselage is split vertically, and I'm trying to envision how to hold/press it to stay together as the glue dries. Any advice? Thanks! Craig > Hi all! Been lurking here for a few days... > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > The fuselage is split vertically, and I'm trying to envision how to > hold/press it to stay together as the glue dries. Depends on what tools you have around, and how much pressure you actually need to generate. Rubber bands can work great, but masking tape can do the trick too. I prefer clamps and have Quick Clamps that are very handy. It's a bar clamp with a short jaw. (the short jaw may not work for a fuselage as large as an airliner model) The handle ratchets tighter when you squeeze it. You can generate a tremendous amount of pressure using that. If I were just getting back into the hobby now, I'd use rubber bands and liquid glue in moderation. Flow the liquid glue (I prefer Ambroid pro-weld) into the joint with a paint brush, letting capillary action do your work for you, then apply the rubber bands to seal the joint. === Stephen > If I were just getting back into the hobby now, I'd use rubber bands and > liquid glue in moderation. Flow the liquid glue (I prefer Ambroid > pro-weld) into the joint with a paint brush, letting capillary action do > your work for you, then apply the rubber bands to seal the joint. > > === Stephen Be aware, however, that the liquid cement will leak out where it touches the rubber band and follow arround the band. If you use liquid cement I would recommend clamps. It will get under either bands or tape and mar the finish of the plastic. > > If I were just getting back into the hobby now, I'd use rubber bands and > > liquid glue in moderation. Flow the liquid glue (I prefer Ambroid [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > cement I would recommend clamps. It will get under either bands or tape > and mar the finish of the plastic. Very true, Don. That can ruin your whole day. If you apply the glue first and just use the rubber bands to squeeze it out and maintain pressure, it shouldn't be a problem. And also use the glue in moderation. But yeah, be careful! -- Stephen > > > If I were just getting back into the hobby now, I'd use rubber bands and > > > liquid glue in moderation. Flow the liquid glue (I prefer Ambroid [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > Very true, Don. That can ruin your whole day. The problem is that any clamp, even a rubber band or tape, that SQUEEZES the joint causes more glue to ooze back out of the seam, and it will, by capillary action, get between the plastic and the rubber band or tape. > If you apply the glue first and just use the rubber bands to squeeze it > out and maintain pressure, it shouldn't be a problem. And also use the [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > -- Stephen > The problem is that any clamp, even a rubber band or tape, that > SQUEEZES the joint causes more glue to ooze back out of the seam, and > it will, by capillary action, get between the plastic and the rubber > band or tape. Well Don, no offense buddy, but it sounds like you're using too much glue. When you apply liquid glue and squeeze, the only thing that should come out of the joint will be a bead of melted plastic, and that's too thick to be drawn any where by capillary action. That being said, everyone has their own system that works for them. If it works, great. This is all probably pretty good information for the guy who posted the original question. --- Stephen > >> [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > -- Stephen > I find the spring loaded clothesline hangers (clothespins) work well on flying surface halves and other thin gluing projects. They only open to about 3/4", so they're not suitable for fuselages, etc.  SignatureBill in Hamptonburgh, NY To email, delete the double zeroes after @ >> >> [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] > flying surface halves and other thin gluing projects. They only open to > about 3/4", so they're not suitable for fuselages, etc. Then there's my trick - Scotch tape and toothpicks. Lay a toothpick on either side of the join to act as a "bridge" to keep the tape from actually touching the seam...this keeps the glue from following the tape. Glue first, tape second and take care and you can reuse the toothpicks, possibly even the tape. Use a fairly long piece of tape, so that it grabs well on either side of the join and you can pull it tight; tape the opposite side in place just to make it stable. I'd work one side first, then the other (say top, then bottom) progressively from tail to nose. Signature- Rufus |
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