Just got the 1/28 Revell Spad and the side panel box art shows a prop
with fairly decent wood grain
detail....
anyone found a way to make plastic props look like wood? Now there
would be a good after market
item,,,,,real wood props.
thx - Craig
Mad-Modeller - 15 Dec 2006 03:42 GMT
> Just got the 1/28 Revell Spad and the side panel box art shows a prop
> with fairly decent wood grain
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> thx - Craig
Uh, you could try carving your own. With 1/72nd models, using 'wood'
coloured paint and some regular brown paint worked well for me. But I
agree, it's a lot more difficult in the larger scale.
The best representation of wood on plastic I've seen was on Anthony
Hazelaar's 1/25th Model T collection. He's been posting them regularly
over on abms but he's now working on Model As.
Bill Banaszak, MFE Sr.
William H. Shuey - 15 Dec 2006 04:29 GMT
FWIW There is a guy named Digameyer, in the Czech Republic I believe,
who is marketing a line of wood props. I believe Copper State Models
carries them.
http://www.amug.org/~copperst/
Bill Shuey
> Just got the 1/28 Revell Spad and the side panel box art shows a prop
> with fairly decent wood grain
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> thx - Craig
Frank Koval - 15 Dec 2006 05:29 GMT
<crw59@earthlink.net> wrote in message > anyone found a way to make plastic
props look like wood?
For a solid wood prop use a sewing needle to score the plastic many times in
the direction of the grain. Sand lightly to remove the burr. Undercoat with
an acrylic. I use Panzer yellow. Overcoat with artist's oils. I use Burnt
Umber or Burnt Sienna. The oils stain the under coat and fill the the
scribed grain. Top coat with Future to give a varnished look.
For a laminated prop it's best to laminate and carve in miniature.
Frank
Stephen Tontoni - 15 Dec 2006 08:06 GMT
There's a modeler here in Seattle named Jack Matthews who dyes paper
with tea, then laminates it together. (I think with CA glue but maybe
just white glue)
He uses as many layers as necessary to make the correct width of each
stripe, and carves his propellors from that. He just puts a clear
varnish/glaze over it at the end. These are, by far, the best models of
wooden propellors I've ever seen.
-- Stephen
frank - 15 Dec 2006 11:34 GMT
I bet he uses CA. I've made many a 'plastic' part from card or
paper saturated with CA. Regarding woodgrain look, what few times I've
done so, I used a light tan base & used a dry brush sort of technique
using a Q-Tip with a black or brown, with good results, then coat it
with a clear gloss.
> There's a modeler here in Seattle named Jack Matthews who dyes paper
> with tea, then laminates it together. (I think with CA glue but maybe
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> -- Stephen
AM - 15 Dec 2006 13:23 GMT
> There's a modeler here in Seattle named Jack Matthews who dyes paper
> with tea, then laminates it together. (I think with CA glue but maybe
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> -- Stephen
Or you can just buy some wood grain decal paper.
I have some in several different colors and shades
for the eventual WW I A/C I know I will have
to build.
My friends dad just carved him some 1/32 and
1/28 prop's (now he has to build the kit's)

Signature
AM
http://sctuser.home.comcast.net
e - 15 Dec 2006 23:37 GMT
>There's a modeler here in Seattle named Jack Matthews who dyes paper
>with tea, then laminates it together. (I think with CA glue but maybe
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
>-- Stephen
are there any pics anywhere? really like to learn that one.
i know how to make paper which may help.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota - 16 Dec 2006 14:22 GMT
> Just got the 1/28 Revell Spad and the side panel box art shows a prop
> with fairly decent wood grain
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> thx - Craig
Brush painting with a light and a dark wood color. Some people put the
paint coats on heavy/wet. I prefer putting the first color on wet,
letting it dry thoroughly, then dry brushing on the second color.
Finish up with a coat of clear.
Our club had the topic of brush painting at its last meeting. There is
as much technique to brush painting as there is to airbrushing. I am
far better at the later than the former, but would certainly like to
improve my techniques with the former.
e - 16 Dec 2006 16:14 GMT
>> Just got the 1/28 Revell Spad and the side panel box art shows a prop
>> with fairly decent wood grain
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>far better at the later than the former, but would certainly like to
>improve my techniques with the former.
i've done 2 wooden props i was happy with in my modeling
career. out of hundreds. but i am getting better.