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Painting tips for resin pistol

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CortxVortx - 25 Jun 2007 00:32 GMT
At Wonderfest, I bought a resin copy of Mal Reynold's pistol (from
"Firefly") which I intend to do up for a Browncoat friend. It's in three
pieces -- two of which are little knobs under and parallel to the
barrel.

This is my first experience with resin. I poked around in the newsgroup
and in forums of modelling websites for information, but haven't found
my particular situation addressed.

By what glimpses I can catch on the DVDs, the pistol has nickel plating
which is worn off at the edges to show the bronze color of the base
metal. And wooden grips.

I'd like some suggestions from more knowledgable modellers as to what
kind of paint would look good on this piece, to give it a realistic
appearance.

Any pointers on prep, primer, metal finish (and even copying the look of
wood for the grips) would be well and gratefully received.

-- William

Signature

"Evolution can be mean -- there's no 'dumb-a.s' vaccine." -- Jimmy
Buffett

Dave Calhoun - 26 Jun 2007 02:51 GMT
Hi William,
Although not an expert in the weapon you are trying to simulate, here are
some tips - for what it's worth!
1. when working with resin, cleaning off all mold release is the most
important part.  I usually soak my resin parts overnight in Wesley's
whitewall cleaner, available at any auto parts store.  This will not damage
the resin but cleans off all of the solvents & mold release oils.  Rinse it
in warm water & let it air dry.
2. for painting the metal finish I would recommend the Alclad system, this
is a more durable finish than the Testors metallizer line.  There are
several shades, but a aluminum shade would probably be the closest to the
nickel, I would not use the chrome for a pistol unless the pistol in the
movie looked like chrome.  There is special primer available for the Alclad,
but any lacquer based primer like Krylon or Duplicolor will work with it.
To simulate the brass underneath where the plating is rubbed off I would use
a drybrushed method and a standard Testors brass paint.  This will allow a
little control.
3. The wood finish is a whole separate thing that takes some practice to get
right. there are several different methods, but a good way to learn various
methods is by looking on the World War 1 modeling website.  One of my
favorite ways is to paint the wood area by brush a acrylic flesh color for a
base/primer.  It is ok to leave brush marks & uneven coverage as this will
help to simulate the grain.  After it dries comes the tricky part. I use an
oil paint - Windsor & Newton Burnt sienna in the small tubes works for me.
I thin it out quite a bit and brush it over the acrylic, being sure to use
the brush to replicate some grain.  a little thicker & darker color can be
drybrushed when the basecoat dries.  Takes some practice but looks great
when done right. But be sure to mask off the metal before letting the oil
paint flow.
Practice on something else before going tto the resin pistol and I'm sure
you will get what you want.
Dave

> At Wonderfest, I bought a resin copy of Mal Reynold's pistol (from
> "Firefly") which I intend to do up for a Browncoat friend. It's in three
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>
> -- William
CortxVortx - 26 Jun 2007 03:11 GMT
Thanks, Dave! That's a whole lot more than I knew before. I have a
couple of old Pyro plastic model flintlock pistols that I can practice
woodgrain on. Next time I'm near a hobby store I'll look for the Alclad.

Much appreciated!

-- William

> Hi William,
> Although not an expert in the weapon you are trying to simulate, here
[quoted text clipped - 51 lines]
>>
>> -- William

Signature

"Evolution can be mean -- there's no 'dumb-a.s' vaccine." -- Jimmy
Buffett

Bluepen - 26 Jun 2007 07:39 GMT
First, who made it?  My son would love one.

Now, as for the gun.  If you want to have metal worn donw there are a
couple if ideas for that.  

Paint the metal bronze with a spray can of enamel paint.  Then, using
acrylic paint paint it chrome or silver.  Use an abrasive, whether
sand paper or a nylon scrubber, rib it on the edges to bring out the
bronze under it.  

I would probably prime the resin as well before the bronze paint.  

Ohers may have other suggestions.  Other ideas involve use of a salt
wash under the silver paint that can be rubbed off to show bronze
below.  

Painting the wood to look like real wood at this scale is a trick.  I
would probably try using oils over acrylic brown paint and making the
grain with darker brown paint.  After it drives well I would paint it
with a couple of coats of clear gloss to protect the finish.  

Good luck.

Lance

>At Wonderfest, I bought a resin copy of Mal Reynold's pistol (from
>"Firefly") which I intend to do up for a Browncoat friend. It's in three
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>
> -- William
CortxVortx - 29 Jun 2007 05:01 GMT
Lance, thanks for the tips.

As for who made the model -- it's a total no-name-o. Nothing on the box
or on the rudimentary instructions.

However, an outfit called Wilco Models from Texas had one at Wonderfest,
for about $40. This was also a 3-piece, with the "wooden handle" pieces
being separate. I Googled the name, but found only reviews of other
replicas. Might try Culttvman's website and store.

-- William

> First, who made it?  My son would love one.
>
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>
> Lance
CortxVortx - 29 Jun 2007 05:11 GMT
Lance,

Poked around a little more and found that Wilco has an eBay store:

http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZwilcomodels

Hope this helps.

-- William

> Lance, thanks for the tips.
>
[quoted text clipped - 32 lines]
>>
>> Lance

Signature

"Evolution can be mean -- there's no 'dumb-a.s' vaccine." -- Jimmy
Buffett

 
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