Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us
Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network
Home
Discussion Groups
General
ModelsRailroadsRockets
Radio Controlled
Air ModelsHelicoptersLand ModelsWater Models
ModelGeeks.com
Contact UsLink To UsSearch & Site Map

Model Forum / General / Models / July 2007



Tip: Looking for answers? Try searching our database.

A semi-permanent gluing method?

Thread view: 
Enable EMail Alerts  Start New Thread
Thread rating: 
Eric Bragas - 19 Jul 2007 00:30 GMT
Hi Everybody,

I have a Visible V8 motor (see it here: http://www.hobbyplace.com/images/revell/car/rmxs8883.jpg)
that I have bolted to a 12" x 15" sheet of masonite.  The "motor
mount" pegs only slide into the red frame, with nothing but gravity
holding it in place.

I want to hang the masonite--board, frame, and engine--from the wall
as sort of a decoration, but I don't want to glue the motor to the
frame permanently.  In case you're unfamiliar with these, they're a
great way to teach kids about engines, as almost all pieces function
as normal and it can still be broken down into it's smallest
components and re-assembled, hence my hesitation to glue the mounts to
the frame holes.

Any ideas?  While hanging, the motor and frame will be at a 90-degree
angle, and I'm sure that the slightest jarring would knock it loose
and send it crashing to the floor.  Any ideas for a semi-permanent
attachment method?

Both the mounting pegs and the frame holes are plastic.

Thanks,
Eric
Disco58 - 19 Jul 2007 02:40 GMT
I presume the "pegs" you're referring to are molded as part of the motor
mount tabs, and they slide into holes in the red frame?  If so, how about
cutting the pegs off the motor mounts, gluing them into the holes, drill
them out, then running #12 or #14 sheetmetal screws through the motor
mount holes into the pegs?  That kit must be older than I thought, or all
the original Renwal engineers could find was a an original 50's 283 to
model from.  I don't remember the starter ever being on the driver's side
though, and if I had a nickel for every Chevy V-8 starter I've changed....
Pat Flannery - 19 Jul 2007 06:31 GMT
>  That kit must be older than I thought, or all
> the original Renwal engineers could find was a an original 50's 283 to
> model from.

At least back then, you could tell what everything on the motor did.

>   I don't remember the starter ever being on the driver's side
> though, and if I had a nickel for every Chevy V-8 starter I've changed....
>  

I noticed that also. Are you supposed to start the motor by spinning the
rear wheels on a treadmill?
Wasn't there a version of this model that had the whole chassis with the
transmission and differential?
I know there was one where a electric motor was hidden in the
transmission housing that drove it all, and had lights that came on in
the cylinders to simulate the spark plugs firing.
But screw that old Chevy Crapbox engine! THIS is what you want!:
http://www.discoverthis.com/dodge-hemi-visible-v8.html
This is what drove the 1969 Dodge Raped Ape, a car so powerful and
dangerous that you had to notify your local law enforcement officers
when you bought one and deposit $1,000 in a special sealed bank account
that they could use to pay off your speeding tickets...and the burial of
your remains after they were scrapped off the asphalt of Deadman's Curve.
It was rumored that the rear spoiler on the Raped Ape would sometimes
detach at high speeds and decapitate spectators at stock car races... it
was also rumored that this was an intentional feature on the part of the
car's designers, and that the spoiler was made of tempered sword steel
and impregnated with cyanide. ;-)

Pat
Eric Bragas - 19 Jul 2007 19:03 GMT
I like this idea, as it sounds much cleaner than other suggestions
(glue, silicone, etc.).  It's mechanical, too, which adds to the
experience for kids, as opposed to cutting through glue or tape or
whatever.
PaPaPeng - 19 Jul 2007 03:24 GMT
>Any ideas?  While hanging, the motor and frame will be at a 90-degree
>angle, and I'm sure that the slightest jarring would knock it loose
>and send it crashing to the floor.  Any ideas for a semi-permanent
>attachment method?

Double sided adhesive tape from the Dollar Store.  Leaving it too long
stuck to plastic may even be dry enough to require scraping off to
detach or to remove..
Pat Flannery - 19 Jul 2007 06:36 GMT
> Double sided adhesive tape from the Dollar Store.  Leaving it too long
> stuck to plastic may even be dry enough to require scraping off to
> detach or to remove..
>  

You know, everyone is going to tell him how to do this, and around two
months from now someone's going to sneeze and the engine is going to
fall right off the wall. :-)

Pat
Lushy - 19 Jul 2007 08:53 GMT
Silastic would one way.
Lushy AU
>> Double sided adhesive tape from the Dollar Store.  Leaving it too
>> long stuck to plastic may even be dry enough to require scraping off
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Pat
Kevin(Bluey) - 19 Jul 2007 10:06 GMT
> Hi Everybody,
>
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
> Thanks,
> Eric

Ordinary old PVA woodworking glue .

Signature

Kevin (Bluey)
"I'm not young enough to know everything."

bluey69@west.net.com.au

 
Sign In
Join
My Latest Posts
My Monitored Threads
My Blog
My Photo Gallery
My Profile
My Homepage

Start New Thread
Enable EMail Alerts
Rate this Thread



©2009 Advenet LLC   Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.