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Model Forum / General / Models / August 2007Removing Old Paint
I have several old plastic truck kits and wish to remove the enamel paint from cabs on them. What is a safe way to do this without marking the plastic? Any suggestions will be appreciated. > I have several old plastic truck kits and wish to remove the enamel paint > from cabs on them. What is a safe way to do this without marking the > plastic? Any suggestions will be appreciated. > > Check this article: http://www.bonediggers.com/1-3/strip/strip.html Pat >> I have several old plastic truck kits and wish to remove the enamel paint >> from cabs on them. What is a safe way to do this without marking the [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Pat Thanks Pat Very informative. Will give the brake fluid a try I use Mr Muscles oven cleaner and it works perfectly. > I have several old plastic truck kits and wish to remove the enamel paint > from cabs on them. What is a safe way to do this without marking the > plastic? Any suggestions will be appreciated. Hi Scraper: I've used Castrol Super Clean with great results. Removed 99% of the paint with no effect on the plastic. Now it's sold at Wal-mart under the name Super Clean in purple jugs. Fantastic stuff. Regards, John. > Hi Scraper: > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Regards, > John. Do *not* use Super Clean in a metal container (even a foil pan of the sort I *used* to use for paint removal), since it will eat the container while doing a great job of removing paint from your model. Plastic or glass is fine, and paint removal is usually very good. It takes a bit longer than brake fluid, in my experience, but it has little or no effect on the plastic, unlike brake fluid.  SignatureLarry D. Farrell, Ph.D. Professor of Microbiology Idaho State University -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com > Do *not* use Super Clean in a metal container (even a foil pan of the > sort I *used* to use for paint removal), since it will eat the > container while doing a great job of removing paint from your model. Oh yeah, this stuff sounds safe. I take it you wear gloves while doing this. :-) Pat >> Do *not* use Super Clean in a metal container (even a foil pan of the >> sort I *used* to use for paint removal), since it will eat the [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Pat Of course, as I do when using brake fluid or anything else to remove paint from models. Super Clean really isn't that bad on short exposure, washing quickly and easily removes it without problems if not left on the skin too long. And putting it in a metal container for a short period isn't a problem either. It is just that longer term storage in metal, the time required to remove paint from a model, results in significant effects on the metal. In the case of the foil pan, overnight was sufficient that the entire pan dissolved. SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com > It is just that longer term storage in metal, the time required to > remove paint from a model, results in significant effects on the > metal. In the case of the foil pan, overnight was sufficient that the > entire pan dissolved. It would be interesting to see what the chemical reaction going on there is like. I did a little digging on the web and apparently both caustic soda and sodium hydroxide both attack aluminum. Pat > > It is just that longer term storage in metal, the time required to > > remove paint from a model, results in significant effects on the [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Pat Hardly surprising as they're the same thing ! I would have expected 'some' attack on plastic though.. T. > Hardly surprising as they're the same thing ! > I worked with large quantities of sodium hydroxide many years ago; our other name for it was caustic lye, but it also goes by the caustic soda name as well as sodium hydrate (don't mix it with sulphuric acid, as it will explode). There's data on it here, and they mention etching aluminum with it: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_hydroxide > I would have expected 'some' attack on plastic though.. > So would I. Pat > > Hardly surprising as they're the same thing ! > > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > name as well as sodium hydrate (don't mix it with sulphuric acid, as it > will explode). ==snippage== Isn't sodium hydroxide the active agent in Dran-o? I experimented with Strip-a-kit years ago as a favor and while I was rinsing it off the model (it worked quite well) some very diluted drops splashed on my shirt. I didn't think anything of it since they were small drops and I knew how watery they were. Well I developed some red welts on my stomach and ended up going to the emergency room for some minor burns (I didn't know how to treat this kind). Since the chemical was bonding with hydrogen in my skin and thus eating into me, the doctor simply sent me home to sit in a bath. That drew the chemical out of me as it bound with hydrogen. When I showed them the Strip-a-kit bottle, they said it was basically liquid Dran-o. Anyhow, although the product worked, I didn't like how nasty it was. Now when I need to strip paint, I use Castrol super degreaser with excellent effect. --- Stephen > Isn't sodium hydroxide the active agent in Dran-o? Yup, I'm pretty sure that's the case. > Well I developed some red welts on my stomach and ended up going to the > emergency room for some minor burns (I didn't know how to treat this [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > them the Strip-a-kit bottle, they said it was basically liquid Dran-o. > And now you get to hear the sodium hydroxide horror story; the reason I was using it was for protein analysis on grain samples. Besides that stuff, we also had pure sulphuric acid and mercury to work with. The sodium hydroxide was mixed with water to make a very caustic liquid mixture that was kept in a ten gallon glass bottle on a shelf and then distributed down a rubber tube to the flasks where the grain samples were. My boss put the bottle on the shelf and to start the siphon effect out of the bottle into the tube by sucking on the tube...and one day he sucked too hard on the tube and got a mouthful of sodium hydroxide solution. Then he spent a week in the hospital as his tongue shrank back down to a size where it could fit in his mouth again. I never did that, but I did get sulphuric acid on my hands that caused my fingernails to start to detach from my fingers due to the acid getting under them and starting to dissolve the flesh that held them to my fingertips. Pat . When I showed > them the Strip-a-kit bottle, they said it was basically liquid Dran-o. > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > --- Stephen Your Medical folks exaggerated just a bit. Yes, Strip-A-Kit DOES contain Sodium Hydroxide - - but certainly much, much LESS than what you find in EZ Off Oven Cleaner! (The SAK formula contains less than 5% Sodium Hydroxide.) The majority of the product is derived from naturally occuring ORGANIC elements. Unlike some of the "homebrews" mentioned here, SAK is shipped with precautionary instructions and a pair of latex gloves. We all know that modelers never read instructions........but for your own safety, we DO recommend that you protect yourself when using ANY sort of stripper. ~Rick Fluke > but for your own safety, we DO > recommend that you protect yourself when using ANY sort of stripper. That sounds like it should come with a box of condoms also. :-) Pat > > Hardly surprising as they're the same thing ! > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > Pat Lye does not attack polystyrene. I've left items in lye solution for several days with no signs of damage. But I can't say how it will affect resin cast parts. I suspect that the polyester resins will not be affected (but don't take my word for it). But lye does attack many metals (it is corrosive). Peteski > Hi Scraper: > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Regards, > John. Plus you can strain it through a screen to remove the paint chunks and still be able to use it to clean oily spots off the garage floor. Using brake fluid or oven cleaner does you or environment any good. Dump those down the drain could get you in dutch. Other choices I use besides Castrol SC is Westley's Bleach-White or Simple Green. All three available at most full service department or automotive stores. > > Hi Scraper: > [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > Simple Green. All three available at most full service department or > automotive stores. how do any of the above suggestions react to resin figures? have several large nude figures that I would like to try and paint again.... Craig > > > Hi Scraper: > > [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > > Craig I don't think Castrol is a good idea for resin. Westley's is usually recommended for cleaning release off of resin but I wouldn't let the item soak in it. I don't know enough about Simple Green. Bill Banaszak, MFE Sr. >> how do any of the above suggestions react to resin figures? have >> several large nude figures that I would like to try and paint [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > Bill Banaszak, MFE Sr. > How come I get the feeling that he wants to paint these figures over-and-over again on a weekly basis? "And now, your name is Donna... and you aren't at all like that prissy little blonde Mindy, are you? No...you are a redhead. And you are a slut." ;-) Pat > >> how do any of the above suggestions react to resin figures? have > >> several large nude figures that I would like to try and paint [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > > Pat You have a delightfully twisted mind. :) Bill Banaszak, MFE Sr. > >> how do any of the above suggestions react to resin figures? have > >> several large nude figures that I would like to try and paint [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > > Pat uh oh, my secret is out. yep, wanna paint all my figures again in commando mode..... No where was that Tamiya flesh again??? Craig |
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