Model Forum / General / Models / August 2007

    Water is difficult to simulate. Also, how deep is the water
   you want to simulate? Small/shallow water can be simulated with
   clear acrylic gel.

    Deeper water is a big problem. Clear epoxy has heat, cost
   and air bubble issues. Acrylic gel has opaque issues if it gets
   too deep, and both can have dust problems when you are talking
   large areas.

    There are model railroad products that can work, but note
   that the Woodland Scenics "water" that requires you heat it on
   a stove has yellow issues, and lots of hot material and plastic
   models don't get along well.

    I think Mig has just announced a material that they claim
   dries clear, and can be used for waterfalls. Hmmm - that, I have
   to see. Moving water/waterfalls is still a very difficult scene
   to replicate.

    Depends on what you choose to use. :-)

                            Bruce

http://www.aglasshalffull.org/article-model-water.html
To some extent it depends on the scale; for a ship in something like
1/700 scale the water does not need to be transparent, and plaster or
Sculpey may work fairly well, although plaster dries awfully fast unless
you mix some vinegar into it.
I did this one with plaster:
http://drzeus.best.vwh.net/wotw/other/flannery1.jpg
Wave size and shape is also highly dependent on scale, as are what
ship's wakes and bow waves look like. Landing craft should not be shown
approaching Omaha beach at 30 knots, and a ship's bow wave angle is
directly proportionate to speed of the vessel making it.
But if one is doing something like a 1/32 scale vessel,  the water
should have some transparency to it, and that's a pain; in that case you
are probably taking about using some sort of transparent or colored
resin over it, although with enough work the effects could be
spectacular... imagine a diorama of a PT boat at full speed with a
semi-transparent  wave coming out from under it and a torpedo visible
underwater a second or two after its launched?  It's stuff like that
that wins model contests.
You could do some really spectacular water by making a solid
blue-painted plaster water base, covering that with a layer of tinted
transparent resin, and then painting the whitecaps on top of the resin,
so that you could see a few millimeters down into the water.

Pat

Its a method I thought up but haven't used yet.  Its to use the gel
wax you see in gift shops and made into fancy candles.  In my city is
a shop that specializes in supplies for making such candles at home.
They can provide advice on viscosity, color (transparent or solid or
translucent), creating "underwater scenes", sculpt it, etc.   Your
city should have a similar craft supplies shop.   Whatever gel wax is
a lot cheaper than acrylic gel and more versatile too.  I have already
bought my wax from the Dollar Store for a diaroma where there is a
puddle of water, or perhaps a half submerged tank that slipped off an
embarkment.  I also like the idea that if I goofed will be easy to
correct the problem.  You cannot do that with acrylic gel.

On Jul 31, 6:43 pm, "JLEJO...@COSLINK.NET" <JLEJO...@COSLINK.NET>
wrote:

I produce a "how to" cd that explains a process I have developed over
many years to create the most realistic water you will ever see.
Check out my web site at flagshipmodels.com.  In short, I apply Super
Sculpey found in arts and crafts stores.  SS is like modeling clay
except after it has been applied it must be cured in an oven at 175
degrees which means the model can not be in the base at the time.
Sculpt the waves how you want them leaving a hole in the Sculpey for
the model.  Once the Sculpey has cooled place the model in the hole.
Apply a generous coat of artists Gel Medium (found in arts and crafts
stores) over the entire base and let dry 24hrs.  Now paint the water
with your choice of paints.  Personally I use acrylics.  The final
step is to apply two thick coats of Future Floor Wax for a super shiny
appearance.

I know you must still have questions, which is why you need the cd,
but that's how it is done in a nutshell.

Rusty White
Flagship Models Inc.
www.flagshipmodels.com

On Jul 31, 8:43 pm, "JLEJO...@COSLINK.NET" <JLEJO...@COSLINK.NET>
wrote:

I use acrylic medium. It is sold in art and craft stores. It is like a
very thick transparent varnish. You paint it on base (paint blue
first), building up waves with brush.  I sometimes peak up the ridge
on some waves and paint the ridges white. The acrylic medium comes in
matt or gloss- I use the gloss.

I have also tried the wrinkled aluminum foil method (which is then
painted blue and clear overcoated).  However, I prefer the acrylic
medium.

On Jul 31, 9:43 pm, "JLEJO...@COSLINK.NET" <JLEJO...@COSLINK.NET>
wrote:

Woodland Scenics has, in addition to the little golden beads that you
melt to make water, a liquid gel called "Realistic Water" in a bottle
with a blue label. Pour it out and, depending on thickness, let it
cure overnight (or a day or two if it's really thick). Stuff dries
crystal clear (I did my pour over a painted blue-green bottom to give
the illusion of depth). I mounted a boat in it after it was poured and
let the stuff harden around it.
Another way that I've used is clear silicone shower caulk. I hardens
and again, I spread it over a pre-painted bottom. Then I sculpted
waves and tugged wave-caps out as it set. When dry, I edged them with
a bit of flat white paint.