All,
I have two unrelated questions:
First, I've just received an Iwata Eclipse CS. I've never used an
airbrush in my life, but am excited to test this on an upcoming
Corsair project. The airbrush instructions state that Iwata's
beginning compressor supplies 25-30 psi and is good for beginners.
Yet, the air pressure section states that 45 psi is needed to "take
full advantage" of the airbrush. I've read about thinning the paint
to the consistency of milk, and that pressures will vary, but here's
the question:
Using properly thinned paint, what is the pressure that you usually
use for your aircraft model airbrushing? I'm talking basic paint
here--not Future etc.
Second, I've heard several differing thoughts on painting parts while
still on the sprues. If I paint the part while it's still on the
sprue, when I cut it off, there is a very small unpainted area where
the sprue was attached. How do you cover this up? Do you re-airbrush
that spot? Or just touch with a brush? Any other thoughts? I've
been removing pieces completely and then painting, but an IPMS buddy
of mine swears by leaving them on the sprue.
Thanks in advance for your insight & responses.
Regards,
N
willshak - 13 Oct 2007 17:36 GMT
on 10/13/2007 11:57 AM Dingo said the following:
> All,
>
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> here--not Future etc.
>
I've read that the pressure for spraying models is between 10 and 20 psi.
> Second, I've heard several differing thoughts on painting parts while
> still on the sprues. If I paint the part while it's still on the
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> N
>
Painting on the sprue has its advantages. You can spray everything at
once with the base color, and/or just spray certain items with different
colors . The best thing is that you have a handle on the parts, so you
can turn the parts easier for spraying.
The disadvantages are the flash and sprue connectors that have to be cut
off and sanded. You can use a brush or a quick spray to cover them up.

Signature
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @
Dingo - 14 Oct 2007 01:34 GMT
Stephen Tontoni - 14 Oct 2007 01:20 GMT
> All,
>
> I have two unrelated questions:
First read this: http://www.ipms-seattle.org/tips/hints.htm (the
Holowchuk tips are a treasure-trove of information)
Second... 45PSI for our use is way too much. That's the sort of pressure
I use when I want to clean it by shooting lacquer thinner through it
(it's fast at that pressure). Someone said 10-20PSI..I rarely get as low
as 12 or 13, but do max out around 20. At 20, you've got an awful lot of
air and the paint may dry before hitting the model. When that happens,
you get a very rough surface. Start around 15PSI and see how it feels.
On sprue or off? I always always always do it off. I think the beauty of
airbrushing is the perfect surface that you get. If you clean up with a
paint brush later, chances are that you're going to mess it up.
For my last project, I had a bunch of bombs to paint. I painted them in
two airbrush sessions. First session, I shot everything execpt the rear
of the bombs. I had them stuck to masking tape on a piece of cardboard
so couldn't paint their rear ends. The next session with the same color,
I held the front of the bombs with masking tape and shot the rear ends.
It was no big deal.
The more you get used to your airbrush, the faster you'll be with color
changes and won't be intimidated about shooting your models. I
frequently will do several colors in an airbrushing session, going from
light to dark, and just shooting lots of lacquer thinner through the
brush in between colors.
Have fun!! You've just taken a HUGE step forward in modeling.
Oh, what's your air source?
--- Stephen
Dingo - 14 Oct 2007 01:33 GMT
>Oh, what's your air source?
>
>--- Stephen
Still in the process of looking, but I'm going for an air
compressor...
Thanks again for the reply!
Stephen Tontoni - 14 Oct 2007 18:29 GMT
> >Oh, what's your air source?
> >
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
> Thanks again for the reply!
well at that site I sent in the last posting, there's a link to Bill
Johnson's CO2 set up. If you're in a condo or something, it may be the
way to go and the quality is excellent. With CO2, you never have to be
concerned about moisture in your compressor's tank etc.
Compressors are easier to come by..Lowe's, Home Depot, you name it. Make
sure to get one with a tank. It makes a huge different to the
consistency of your air pressure.
Have fun --- Stephen
Scherer - 14 Oct 2007 22:47 GMT
Or print the Hobby Lobby certificate for 40% off and get an Iwata compressor
for about $150...
>> >Oh, what's your air source?
>> >
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
> Have fun --- Stephen
Pip Moss - 14 Oct 2007 01:32 GMT
> All,
>
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> use for your aircraft model airbrushing? I'm talking basic paint
> here--not Future etc.
I almost always airbrush at 15 psi with the paint, as you say, thinned to
about the consistency of milk. It may be that you can use slightly thicker
paint at higher pressure, which may cover more easily. It's something you
could experiment with. You definitely have to be careful about using too
much pressure with over-thinned paint -- it becomes more difficult to avoid
puddling or bullseyes where too much paint is applied too wet to a small
area.
> Second, I've heard several differing thoughts on painting parts while
> still on the sprues. If I paint the part while it's still on the
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> been removing pieces completely and then painting, but an IPMS buddy
> of mine swears by leaving them on the sprue.
If the attachment point is going to be visible, I think it's more efficient
to detach the part before painting. You're probably going to have to do some
minor surfacing at the attachment point; if there's already paint in the
area, it just gets in the way. I use the cover to an old cookie tin. I make
a flattened loop of masking tape with the adhesive out. Thetape sticks to
the cover, and the parts to be painted stick to the tape.
HTH.
Pip Moss