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Model Forum / General / Models / November 20071/27 Hannover CL 111a finished
I'll give a link to the short story in English. I post a lot and more elaborate on a local ( read : Dutch ) forum, but I guess that's no good here. http://www.wings-of-valor.net/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=30;t=000049 > http://www.wings-of-valor.net/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=30;t=000049 That looks great; thanks for sharing it! Makes me want to build mine! ---Stephen > In article <47247102$0$29252$ba620...@news.skynet.be>, > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > ---Stephen I built one about 20 years ago. Not having the lozenge camo on a decal, I painted it on. I'm feeling MUCH better now...... I converted another (bought for me by my parents on a vacation in Germany - they misunderstood when I asked for a German model or two) into a Cl.V. That one I did in an all-green schemebecause I was unwilling to try dot-painting again. My hat's off to the maker of this craft, it's beautiful! > I built one about 20 years ago. Not having the lozenge camo on a > decal, I painted it on. > That's downright masochistic. :-) At least one issue of the MPC one had lozenge pattern decal sheet with it. This was thick, inflexible, and totally unusable. Pat > > I built one about 20 years ago. Not having the lozenge camo on a > > decal, I painted it on. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Pat That sounds like most if not all MPC decals sheets. Try checking them out after about fifteen years on the paper - a harsh look will slide them off. Actually painting the lozenge pattern wasn't that bad (not that I'd want to do it again), just time consuming. You'd paint a row on each surface and wait for it to dry before adding the next. What I did was to prime the model in Pactra off-white spray (remember that?) and then measure the diagonals (to keep them even) and put in lines parallel to the leading edge (to keep them straight), all in an HB (#6?) pencil (for a light, none-smudging line). Then it's a matter of connecting the dots. I'd get up a bit earlier in the morning and paint a row, one after work (before supper) and one before bed. Each surface took about a week to complete. Then a coat of Testors lacquer and the decals. Another coat of lacquer to set the decals and I was ready for final construction. My primary color source book in those days was the Ken Munson book of WWI fighters and bombers. > That sounds like most if not all MPC decals sheets. Try checking them > out after about fifteen years on the paper - a harsh look will slide [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > the dots. > Way, way, back I had those Renwal kits of early pioneer aircraft and the Fokker Eindecker and DH-2 that you applied tissue to the exterior of via liquid cement. In the case of the early aircraft it was just plain white tissue such as is used on balsa models...but on the Fokker and DH-2 the tissue had all the markings on it, so no decals were needed. A lozenge print tissue could be used over a styrene model and applied the same way. Did some company ever take a crack at that as a after-market accessory? Pat > > That sounds like most if not all MPC decals sheets. Try checking them > > out after about fifteen years on the paper - a harsh look will slide [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > > Pat I found a trick to those kits. I found that the liquid cement has a bad tendency to melt the plastic (especially for the pioneer aircraft), so I tacked it down with the liquid cement and after a day, I painted it with clear dope. This will shrink the aerospan without attacking the plastic. Older versions of these kits (first time around) the wings warped and they looked like crap with a capital S. The later versions (found in a hardware store for 50? each) were done in this manner and still look crisp and sharp. The only kit that I missed out on was the Hadden Jenny, and seeing what that's going for on ePay, I doubt that I'll get it any time soon. > I found a trick to those kits. I found that the liquid cement has a > bad tendency to melt the plastic (especially for the pioneer [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > around) the wings warped and they looked like crap with a capital S. > That's odd, I never had that problem on any of the ones I made. The only thing I had trouble with was the white plastic on the Eindecker and DH-2. Unlike the early aircraft series they used a normal wing structure with raised ribs on it you applied the tissue over. On the early ones you just had a molded brown plastic framework that you covered with aerospan, you could see light through it when the model was lit from above as would happen on the real fabric covering of the actual aircraft - which added a very realistic appearance to the finished model. I got around four of remaindered early aviation pioneer kits that they dragged out of our local Woolworth's basement around 1978 and were selling for a dollar each, and sold them to Lencraft for around five dollars each. Best find I ever made was a complete unbuilt Aurora Big Horn sheep kit (paints and all) down at the local salvation army store for fifty cents and traded for a Airfix Saturn 1B. Surprisingly, that kit had full color instructions. > The later versions (found in a hardware store for 50¢ each) were done > in this manner and still look crisp and sharp. The only kit that I > missed out on was the Hadden Jenny, and seeing what that's going for > on ePay, I doubt that I'll get it any time soon. > I don't think I ever had that one either. The other ones were a lot of fun, and I particularly liked the Antoinette...an aircraft that apparently had a reputation for falling apart during flight. Pat > > I found a trick to those kits. I found that the liquid cement has a > > bad tendency to melt the plastic (especially for the pioneer [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > > Pat The Renwal pre-WWI pioneer aircraft were not all Renwall originals. The Antoinette, Bleriot, Voisin-Farman and Wright Flyer were from Taimei. The Avro Triplane and Curtiss Golden Flyer were probably Taimei, but only released by Renwall. The odd-ball was the de Haviland- Hearle No 1 1910 Biplane which, for some reason, Renwall didn't pick up. The original Taimei kits were also released by Entex. Don't forget that the Renwal Aero Skin Pfalz D.III was the only 1/72 scale kit of this aircraft for years. Another company that used a variant of the "Aero Skin" system was the French firm of Brifaut. They did an Antoinette and the bizarre Clement Ader Eole, both with silk skinning. The Eole included two complete sets of parts as they were so fragile and difficult to assemble. Anybody else? Tom > > I found a trick to those kits. I found that the liquid cement has a > > bad tendency to melt the plastic (especially for the pioneer [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > above as would happen on the real fabric covering of the actual aircraft > - which added a very realistic appearance to the finished model. Odd, the ones I have (including one Curtiss Golden Flyer that I never got around to converting to a Headless D) are all Renwall and all black plastic. The only one molded in brown was the deHavilland from Entex. > I got around four of remaindered early aviation pioneer kits that they > dragged out of our local Woolworth's basement around 1978 and were [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > > Pat >> Unlike the early aircraft series they used a normal wing structure with >> raised ribs on it you applied the tissue over. On the early ones you [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > Entex. > It's been so long since I built any of these, that I'm having a hard time remembering the details. My older brother had them when I was very young, and they may have been molded in black way back then. But the second time I had them, I'm pretty sure they were in brown, though I may be wrong...in fact the second time around they may have been the Entex release. Whoever made them, they were triple kits. Pat > >> I got around four of remaindered early aviation pioneer kits that they [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] >> Pat >> > >> Unlike the early aircraft series they used a normal wing structure with > >> raised ribs on it you applied the tissue over. On the early ones you [quoted text clipped - 40 lines] > > - Show quoted text - Double kits. I still have them. #212 Voisin-Farman & Antonette #234 Wright Flyer & Bleriot #256 Avro Triplane & Curtiss Golden Flyer They were fun to build, but the black plastic couldn't have been a worse choice, made the finished model look very toy-like. The framework was, in most cases, far too thick and wide. Combined with the white paper covering, unsatisfactory results. Great collector's kits, though. :-)) Tom On Nov 1, 1:29 am, "maies...@netscape.com" <maies...@netscape.com> wrote: > > >> Unlike the early aircraft series they used a normal wing structure with > > >> raised ribs on it you applied the tissue over. On the early ones you [quoted text clipped - 56 lines] > > - Show quoted text - Right, the only triple kit was the Entex version in a red-brown plastic molding (DH No.1, Antoinette, and Bleriot(?)). Also remember single kits of these three from Entex; would like to have seen more of them. > >> http://www.wings-of-valor.net/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=30;t=000049 [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Boy, does that bring back memories! I had the MPC issue of that and the Roland Walfisch as a kid. Really sharp work on the lozenge fabric. Pat |
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