Anybody have suggestions as to technique for adding tall grass/weeds
to a vignette/diorama?
I'm using standard railroad diorama grass, which seems to be a pain in
the a.s to use. When I get a clump together and try to put it in a
drilled hole it tends to spread out and does not want to go into the
hole. Should I make a larger hole and put the grass in then add
adhesive?
Any help appreciated.
TIA,
Tom
Mad-Modeller - 24 Feb 2008 04:22 GMT
> Anybody have suggestions as to technique for adding tall grass/weeds
> to a vignette/diorama?
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> Tom
I had some succes with sisal twine. I unraveled fibres and planted them
with a dot of Elmer's. Leaving the resultant grass alone was good for
dormant or dead grass. Mixing up some olive green watercolour and just
touching the brush quickly to the fibre usually gave it the 'live'
look. The colour would wick down the strand. Wait for the Elmer's to
dry before colouring the strands.
Bill Banaszak, MFE Sr.
The Old Man - 27 Feb 2008 11:39 GMT
> "maies...@netscape.com" wrote:
>
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -
I had real good luck when I bought a decorative broom from a craft
store (Michael's?). The broom was made in the old style, think witch's
flying stick. Cost me a couple of bucks (after Halloween) and gave me
enough strands for about a dozen dioramas and vignettes. I would tie
off a group, maybe a ½" to ¾" in diameter, with a string, cut them to
the desired length and glue them using Elmer's White Glue. Wait until
the glue has set before you cut the binding string. The broom that I
bought was the color of dried grass, but there were others in various
shades of green and brown as well.
PaPaPeng - 27 Feb 2008 16:50 GMT
>I had real good luck when I bought a decorative broom from a craft
>store (Michael's?). The broom was made in the old style, think witch's
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>bought was the color of dried grass, but there were others in various
>shades of green and brown as well.
Aha. I did buy that too some years ago. I had a problem making the
stalks stand up as a grass field and didn't do much with them except
use them to fill in some detail among moss "bushes". They are also
slightly too coarse to be posed as grass. I prefer my fur hair
solution to simulate grass.
Speaking of moss there are $1 packs of moss from the Dollar Store that
look even more realistic as diorama shrubs and hedges than the
packages from the railway hobby supplies selection. Or rather I use
them to fill in the 'deer antler looking' railway moss stuff.
Another useful diorama plant from the Dollar Store is dried "baby's
breath" http://www.denverplants.com/perennials/html/gypso_pan.htm
That's what I think its called. It is multibranched within a 6 to 8
inch trimmed length and therefore convincing as thin trees often grown
as strands of windbreak in farms.
In the same crafts section are also packages of silk cutouts of autumn
leaves that run from yellows through orange and reds to browns. My
idea is to snip them into model leaf size bits and sprinkle them onto
the branches of a dead bonsai tree sprayed with an adhesive. I
haven't tried this idea out yet.
Enzo Matrix - 24 Feb 2008 10:06 GMT
> Anybody have suggestions as to technique for adding tall grass/weeds
> to a vignette/diorama?
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> Any help appreciated.
Here ya go... this will produce perfect long grass, every time.
http://www.gaugemaster.co.uk/item_details.asp?pid=24463&style=main&strType=
Mind you, for a hundred quid, so it bluddy should do! :-D
For a cheaper alternative try the Static Grass Applicator
http://www.ecscenics.co.uk/index.html?lang=en-uk&target=d116.html&lmd=39405.705370

Signature
Enzo
I wear the cheese. It does not wear me.
PaPaPeng - 29 Feb 2008 07:41 GMT
>> Anybody have suggestions as to technique for adding tall grass/weeds
>> to a vignette/diorama?
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
>http://www.gaugemaster.co.uk/item_details.asp?pid=24463&style=main&strType=
I was wondering how it worked. I think I have an idea. All it is is
a motor with a fan to generate a whirlwind inside the bell. It won't
be a propeller. The fan will be something like "fingered" fan
attached to a fractional horsepower motor to create turbulence, not
streamed air.
That plastic sieve (three mesh sizes shown) fits over the mouth of the
bell to keep the flock fibers in until they can pass through the holes
longitudinally. This arrangement allows the user to spread the
"grass" around like a pepper mill. Pshaw. I can make such a device
for myself with parts from my scrap box. 95 pounds sterling indeed.
For "grass" I think the gag hair plaits from the Dollar Store can be
chopped into suitable lengths and used with this flock dispenser.
>Mind you, for a hundred quid, so it bluddy should do! :-D
>
>For a cheaper alternative try the Static Grass Applicator
>
>http://www.ecscenics.co.uk/index.html?lang=en-uk&target=d116.html&lmd=39405.705370
Speaking of home made tools I saw an angle sander in a hobby shop
recently. $40 or so. All it is is a small 8" x 4" (thereabouts)
plank base with a thumb knob straight edge clamp to hold down the
workpiece. This workpiece can be set to any particular angle to the
base edge using a protractor gauge marked/fixed(?) on the base. A
sanding block guided by a grooved channel sands the workpiece edge to
the desired angle. Yep I'll make one too.
Enzo Matrix - 29 Feb 2008 07:53 GMT
>>> Anybody have suggestions as to technique for adding tall grass/weeds
>>> to a vignette/diorama?
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
> "grass" around like a pepper mill. Pshaw. I can make such a device
> for myself with parts from my scrap box. 95 pounds sterling indeed.
I'm pretty sure that it has something to do with electrostatics.

Signature
Enzo
I wear the cheese. It does not wear me.
PaPaPeng - 29 Feb 2008 08:04 GMT
>I was wondering how it worked.
Ok. Two features I missed the first time round. Why that little
pigtail on a rather long handle?
Ad blurp: "Grass-Master - Suitable for use with all Noch static
scatter materials this Electro-Static Flocking device greatly enhances
the scenic look of any layout."
Electro-Static means static electricity charge attraction. The
pigtail is to attach to the diorama base to establish the pole to
attract 'grass' flock. That means the handle has circuitry to
generate a high DC voltage to impart a static electric charge to the
flock fibers. This explains the 95 pounds sterling price.
There is no external power chord and I see a flashlight like ON/OFF
slide switch. Its battery powered. This home-made project will need
a bit more work. The original 'fan in a bell' flocker is easy enough
to make and I'll try that first. I have a few obsolete CRTs with good
flyback transformers (20 to 40 KV outputs) to generate static
electricity with. That's the next project.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota - 24 Feb 2008 16:30 GMT
On Feb 23, 9:11 pm, "maies...@netscape.com" <maies...@netscape.com>
wrote:
> Anybody have suggestions as to technique for adding tall grass/weeds
> to a vignette/diorama?
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> Tom
I just found some great stuff for the shorter grass in the hobby
shop. The diorama surface was supposed to simulate a sod runway
area. This stuff is a sheet with a fuzzy grass already on it. Very
easy to use. And, the grass is not all a uniform color, but shades of
green and brown. It was in the model railroad section.
The twine technique is excellent for weeds and longer grass. Also I
save old small paint brushes. Rather than throwing them out I use the
bristle as weeds and taller grass.
masterpiecemodels - 24 Feb 2008 17:09 GMT
> Anybody have suggestions as to technique for adding tall grass/weeds
> to a vignette/diorama?
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> Tom\
when I apply grass to my dioramas I brush or spray dull coat or any type
of adhesive to the surface where the grass goes. Once applied and before
it drys sprinkle the grass over the adhesive once everything drys gently
blow the excess off
Pat Flannery - 25 Feb 2008 10:43 GMT
> when I apply grass to my dioramas I brush or spray dull coat or any
> type of adhesive to the surface where the grass goes. Once applied and
> before it drys sprinkle the grass over the adhesive once everything
> drys gently blow the excess off
I'm still waiting for someone to make the obvious suggestion...plant
Chia Pet grass on the diorama.
Then the next obvious step...Bonsai trees. :-D
Pat
PaPaPeng - 25 Feb 2008 11:40 GMT
>> when I apply grass to my dioramas I brush or spray dull coat or any
>> type of adhesive to the surface where the grass goes. Once applied and
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
>Pat
Don't laugh. There is a guy in my city who does beautiful figures of
Napoleanic and medieval figures posed on a diaroma base. The figures
are around 6 inches high (scale size?) in white metal or resin. For
grass he uses clumps of dense moss you find growing in bald spots in
the yard, under evergreen trees or in nooks of dirt between cement
blocks. For trees he uses discarded (dead) Bonsai trees from the
greenhouse. The Bonsai trees are just the right size and shape for
the figures. Use varnish to secure whatever leaves remain and touch
them up with the appropriate colors. I don't have a source for dead
Bonsai trees. Otherwise I would use them for 1/35 armor dioramas too.
willshak - 25 Feb 2008 13:19 GMT
on 2/25/2008 6:40 AM PaPaPeng said the following:
>
>>
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> Napoleanic and medieval figures posed on a diaroma base. The figures
> are around 6 inches high (scale size?) in white metal or resin.
1" scale, or 1/12, or 1:12 ( 1 inch = 1 foot ), which is the most
popular dollhouse size.
> For
> grass he uses clumps of dense moss you find growing in bald spots in
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> Bonsai trees. Otherwise I would use them for 1/35 armor dioramas too.
>

Signature
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @
PaPaPeng - 24 Feb 2008 17:11 GMT
>Anybody have suggestions as to technique for adding tall grass/weeds
>to a vignette/diorama?
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
>Tom
I bought what is probably deerskin with 4 cm length hair from GoodWill
(read cheap). That provides a lot of browned grass of just the right
stiffness and shape, the shape being a taper to a point at the tip. I
haven't figured how to dye fur hairs green yet. Any suggestions?
Cutting Dollar Store nylon wig fibers (many suitable diorama colors
available) doesn't quite do the job as simulated grass as the fibers
are of equal diameter, they curl up into unrealistic shapes and they
can't stand up realistically if more than a centimetre or so.
To anchor fur hairs onto the ground I used acrylic Sludge (follow up
link below for details). Brush a coat or Sludge onto the base. Dip
the bottom of a tuft of fur hairs to ensure a good bond between the
hair and the base. Then use screendoor mesh to spread out and to
support the hairs while the Sludge gels. Gelling should occur within
20 minutes but let the gel harden overnight to ensure a good bond.
Acrylic Sludge is a wonderful modelling product and I keep finding new
uses for it. Its color is like the purplish lint from a clothes
dryer. As it dries it shrinks into a thin meniscus and practically
disappears from sight. I use Sludge to attach equipment for 1/35
figures. You can paint the figures and equipment separately. When
dry and ready just daub a glob of Sludge, yes a glob, onto the
equipment and press it onto the figure as is. That is there is no
need to scrape off the paint for the glue spot and there is no need to
touch up any excess dried glue. The adhesion is better than any glue
bond and its practically invisible. You have to try it to appreciate
its properties. Sludge will also "glue" different materials. I used
screen door mesh as screen covers for my 1/25 German tank rear deck
screens. They went on beautifully, showed no signs of any "gluing"
and did not need touching up. The best part is if you make a mistake
all you need to do is peel off the part and scrape off the Sludge
skin. The original paint work will be unharmed.
Sludge http://tri-art.ca/en/products/sludge/
What is it?
SLUDGE is the newest Tri-Art acrylic to hit the shelves. It is a
by-product of acrylic paint manufacturing. It is the combination of
the precipitated solids amassed from our wash water, which has then
been re-processed into thick and thin acrylic paint formats.
maiesm72@netscape.com - 25 Feb 2008 07:29 GMT
Thanks, guys.Plenty of stuff to look into and try.TomOn Feb 24,
9:11 am, PaPaPeng <PaPaP...@yahoo.com> wrote:> On Sat, 23 Feb 2008
19:11:43 -0800 (PST), "maies...@netscape.com"> >
<maies...@netscape.com> wrote:> >Anybody have suggestions as to
technique for adding tall grass/weeds> >to a vignette/diorama?> > >I'm
using standard railroad diorama grass, which seems to be a pain in>
>the a.s to use. When I get a clump together and try to put it in a>
>drilled hole it tends to spread out and does not want to go into the>
>hole. Should I make a larger hole and put the grass in then add>
>adhesive?> > >Any help appreciated.> > >TIA,> > >Tom> > I bought what
is probably deerskin with 4 cm length hair from GoodWill> (read
cheap). That provides a lot of browned grass of just the right>
stiffness and shape, the shape being a taper to a point at the tip. I>
haven't figured how to dye fur hairs green yet. Any suggestions?> >
Cutting Dollar Store nylon wig fibers (many suitable diorama colors>
available) doesn't quite do the job as simulated grass as the fibers>
are of equal diameter, they curl up into unrealistic shapes and they>
can't stand up realistically if more than a centimetre or so. > > To
anchor fur hairs onto the ground I used acrylic Sludge (follow up>
link below for details). Brush a coat or Sludge onto the base. Dip>
the bottom of a tuft of fur hairs to ensure a good bond between the>
hair and the base. Then use screendoor mesh to spread out and to>
support the hairs while the Sludge gels. Gelling should occur within>
20 minutes but let the gel harden overnight to ensure a good bond.> >
Acrylic Sludge is a wonderful modelling product and I keep finding
new> uses for it. Its color is like the purplish lint from a clothes>
dryer. As it dries it shrinks into a thin meniscus and practically>
disappears from sight. I use Sludge to attach equipment for 1/35>
figures. You can paint the figures and equipment separately. When>
dry and ready just daub a glob of Sludge, yes a glob, onto the>
equipment and press it onto the figure as is. That is there is no>
need to scrape off the paint for the glue spot and there is no need
to> touch up any excess dried glue. The adhesion is better than any
glue> bond and its practically invisible. You have to try it to
appreciate> its properties. Sludge will also "glue" different
materials. I used> screen door mesh as screen covers for my 1/25
German tank rear deck> screens. They went on beautifully, showed no
signs of any "gluing"> and did not need touching up. The best part is
if you make a mistake> all you need to do is peel off the part and
scrape off the Sludge> skin. The original paint work will be
unharmed.> > Sludge http://tri-art.ca/en/products/sludge/> > What is
it?> SLUDGE is the newest Tri-Art acrylic to hit the shelves. It is a>
by-product of acrylic paint manufacturing. It is the combination of>
the precipitated solids amassed from our wash water, which has then>
been re-processed into thick and thin acrylic paint formats.
PaPaPeng - 27 Feb 2008 02:33 GMT
>Anybody have suggestions as to technique for adding tall grass/weeds
>to a vignette/diorama?
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
>Tom
One more tip. If that railroad grass is polymer hold the tuft
together and burn the base a little. Else use a hot metal tip if that
helps. The molten plastic will hold the fibers together.