Model Forum / General / Models / March 2008

No, regular plastic glue will not hold the photo etch. You either should
use epoxy or CA (cyano acrylate) glue. CA glue is the same stuff as
Krazy glue etc, but you can get it in larger containers with various gap
filling ability, setting times, etc from a hobby store. You can also get
CA accelerator to shorten the setting time.

For removing the part, you'll hear different techniques. I hold the
photo etch part down on a cutting surface and cut it off using a
scalpel. If you're worried about the part flying off, you can always
tape it down first, or do everything with both your hands inside a
ziplock bag. Then if the part shoots off, it stays inside the bag.

Just be very deliberate. Parts that fly off may be difficult to find.
Also, make plans before you use PE... many times, the PE inside a
fuselage won't be visible anyway. There's no law that states you have to
use it all. I usually don't use an entire PE fret. Or I may decide, like
if you're supposed to fold a radio out of photo etch, to cut a chunk of
plastic to the right size, then glue one surface of PE (with the dials
etc) to that. Throw away the rest.

Have fun --- Stephen

I use an X-acto knife with a standard #11 blade. It does dull them
fast, so have a good supply of blades. I cut against a piece of
basswood.  Solvent type cements do NOT work well. I usually use CA for
smaller PE pieces, but white glue works well for larger areas where I
want a longer setting time for positioning, such as ship railings.
But for aircraft models I usually use either straight CA, or gel CA.

Usually CA glue.
Acrylic gloss clear or even Future can be used for the tiny bits, where
you don't want the CA to glue the part to the tweezers.

Usually no.

Either small sharp scissors, or an old #16 X-Acto blade and a hard, flat
surface, such as ceramic, glass or metal. IMHO, it's better not to cut
PE on polyethylene, wood or a cutting mat, as these materials are too
soft and you will bend the parts you try to cut away.

Also, when detaching small parts, you might want to back the PE fret
with a bit of adhesive tape, so that the newly cut part doesn't fly away
onto the carpet. Don't ask how I know that.

You'll need to use a CA glue to attach the parts - I prefer thick CA,
and there is a black CA meant for tires that I also particularly like to
use.  Presumably it's got a flexure agent in it, and I think it does a
better job holding part that have to conform to a curve.  It's also a
bit easier to see.  Watch crystal cement also works well against flat
surfaces, and gives a bit more working time.  In all cases you'll want
to apply your etched parts directly to the bare plastic, and not over
paint - they'll eventually flake off if you do that.

The best way I've found to separate the parts from the fret is a
jeweler's technique using a #17 X-Acto blade (just the blade, no handle)
and a small hammer.  I use a small chunk of plexiglass sheet as a
backstop.  Set the blade where you want the cut, put a fingertip against
the part and the blade, and then strike/tap through.  You can make very
close, very clean cuts this way, and use successive such cuts and a
needle file to clean up if need be.  You'd think this might dull bldes
quickly, but it doesn't.

    The short answer is: It depends. Now, for the longer answer. :-)
   If the part is just laying on the surface, is unlikely to be hit or
   otherwise molested, you can try gloss finish, Future (whatever the very
   long idiotic name is today), white glue, super glue, etc. I am going
   to try a glue called "Gator Glue" that is made from acrylic paint base.
   It is very flexible when dry, very strong, and, I am told, grabs from
   the get go, which is the usual problem with gloss finish, Future, et.
   al.

    Now, if the part is structural, or is likely to get molested, you
   need to look at better ways of attaching it - perhaps the aforementioned
   "Gator Glue", super glue, epoxy, etc.

    As has been said, "no".

    I prefer to use a #17 blade in a large handle. If the part
   is small, I will put masking tape on the part to the fret to keep
   if from flying off to the black hole that hovers over my work bench.
   I use a 12 inch square piece of floor tile as the cutting surface.
   Yes, it is very hard on the blades, but, so what. Blades are cheap.

    I dress the part with a chisel stone, rather than a file. The
   nice smooth stone removes and excess fret attachment that is left
   after cutting the part free.

    Now, attaching it to the MODEL is the hard part. Attaching it
   to anything else BUT the model is trivial...

                            Bruce