Model Forum / General / Models / March 2008

I use the "two razor blade" method to bend etched parts.  You align a
razor blade on top of the part, and then lift the bend from underneath
with a second razor blade.  Works very nicely once you've done it a few
times.

As for curved parts, I generally look around my bench for something with
a similar curve and use that as a form to press the bend around with my
thumb - the caps from my CA glue are my most useful form; they're just
the perfect radius for seat backs in 1/48.

I use thick CA or watch crystal cement for gluing etched parts.

I built my own bending jig. I placed a piece of 060 aluminum, about 4
x 6, on a piece of hardwood.  I placed a piece of 020 stainless about
2 x 6 on one side (glued with CA).  I use a piece of 1" angle
aluminum.  I carefully drilled two holes in the angle, 1 inch from
edge, on each side, so I could reverse the piece.  One side will be
for straight bends that do not need notches, the other side I can cut
notches in.  I clamped it over the base, lining up the edge with the
edge of the stainless. I drilled, and put two 1/4 inch flat head wood
screws up from the bottom.  The angle aluminum is held in place with a
sleeve and a wingnut to clamp the PE piece. I sharpened another piece
of the stainless, so it would fit under the PE piece and use it as the
actual bending blade.

Considering the investment made to purchase PE sets, it's of my
opinion that you also purchase the correct tools to properly work with
them.

Jigs and benders are available from www.thesmallshop.com pliers and
shears from www.xuron.com both offer tools that will last you through
your modeling lifetime.