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What does "dry transfer" mean ?

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Musicman59 - 21 Dec 2008 21:18 GMT
how do you apply these things?

Craig

http://www.squadron.com/ItemDetails.asp?item=VE0357
AMPSOne@aol.com - 21 Dec 2008 21:36 GMT
> how do you apply these things?
>
> Craig
>
> http://www.squadron.com/ItemDetails.asp?item=VE0357

They used to be called "rub-ons" as you apply them by placing them on
the object and then rubbing them with a stylus or pencil until they
separate from the backing. The ones today are much better and at least
for armor modeling the ones from Archer Fine Transfers are
incredible.

You can also rub them onto a sheet of clear decal backing and after
coating them with a fixative (Micro makes a decal coating which works
fine) you can then use them like any other wet-transfer (waterslide)
decal.

Cookie Sewell
Musicman59 - 22 Dec 2008 00:16 GMT
On Dec 21, 1:36 pm, AMPS...@aol.com wrote:

> > how do you apply these things?
>
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>
> Cookie Sewell

thx - any idea how much pressure is needed to transfer?  I plan to use
them on the standard Verlinden plaster diorama buildings. Will it
leave an impression in the soft plaster?  Not a desirable effect as
these slogans were most likely brushed on walls.

Craig
Don Stauffer - 22 Dec 2008 14:41 GMT
> On Dec 21, 1:36 pm, AMPS...@aol.com wrote:
>>
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>
> Craig

A moderate pressure.  The tool used is almost more important than the
actual pressure.  Some companies that sell them offer a teflon or nylon
tool. I do NOT recommend a pencil or pen point. I used the back of a
fine paint brush. One can round a piece of 1/8 inch dowel into a
hemisphere and that will work, but painting and smoothing to a glossy
finish works better. You do not want a sharp point- that will tear the
backing (fronting?) paper.  You need to make sure you rub over the
entire transfer to get  good adhesion- something that also says don't
use something too sharp. The bigger the radius the more you get pressure
everywhere.

Since the letters stand out slightly from the surface, some folks use
this to make casting "logo" imprints. They are painted same color as the
 part, but the raise letters show slightly.  Works well.
OM - 22 Dec 2008 23:27 GMT
>I plan to use them on the standard Verlinden plaster diorama buildings. Will it
>leave an impression in the soft plaster?

...How solid is this plaster compared to another material. Such as
foamcore? I've used dry transfer decals on really dense foam, and
while it didn't stick too well without a fixative coat, I was able to
apply them with enough pressure so as to not leave an impression in
the foam.

                OM
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Mike Smith - 27 Dec 2008 18:30 GMT
>>I plan to use them on the standard Verlinden plaster diorama buildings.
>>Will it
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> OM

Likewise - I used them on a range of surfaces, I used the rubber (eraser) on
the back end of a pencil, never had a problem - That was in 2mm/ft scale
'Woodhead' transfers for model railways. I dampened the transfer so I could
see the actual lettering (if it's white lettering on a white carrier (all
mine were) it can be difficult to see, especially in a small scale).
Lettraset used to offer sheets of rub-down lettering and numbers which I
used for military stuff in 1:76th scale, those had a thinner backing sheet
tinted light blue  and I did not need to dampen them to get the transfer
visible.
I always coated with matt varnish as everything I made was to be played with
rather than for display, but that worked out well enough for my tastes.

HTH

Mike
 
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