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Which Italeri M-109 Kit IS Best 4 Israeli Service?

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TankBuilder2@yahoo.ca - 21 Dec 2008 23:00 GMT
Hi there.

I have been searching for an Itaerli M-109 kit to build/convert into
an Israeli version. I did not know there were so many M-109 kit
variants released by italeri. Can anyone here advise as to which one
would be best as a staring point for an Israeli M-109 model? How about
the Italeri M-109 kit #246?

Thanks and cheers from Peter
AMPSOne@aol.com - 24 Dec 2008 01:46 GMT
There are five kits:

235    M109/G 155mm SP Howitzer
238    M108 105mm SP Howitzer
239    M109A2 155mm SP Howitzer
246    M109E4/G/A1-A2/E4
372    M109A6 Paladin SP 155mm Howitzer

Nos. 239 and 246 both contain all the parts for an M109 and an M109A2;
the Israelis had mostly M109A1s for a long time which is the M109 with
"pop-up" sight and the M109A2 39 caliber barrel, so either one of
these will work for the base vehicle.

Cookie Sewell
TankBuilder2@yahoo.ca - 30 Dec 2008 23:13 GMT
On Dec 23, 8:46 pm, AMPS...@aol.com wrote:
> There are five kits:
>
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> Cookie Sewell

Hi there Cookie.

I got my Italeri M-109 kit today. It is kit number 246 and the reason
it was more than I expected was becuse it also has a PE fret by PzH
and individual link styrene tracks by Skybow.

I have no idea how to assemble these track links. There are little
pieces either side of the track links on the parts tree. These little
bits do not seem to have two holes or indents for the track pins. Does
any one know how these go together?

Cheers from Peter
AMPSOne@aol.com - 31 Dec 2008 00:58 GMT
On Dec 30, 6:13�pm, TankBuild...@yahoo.ca wrote:
> On Dec 23, 8:46�pm, AMPS...@aol.com wrote:
>
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
>
> Cheers from Peter

The Skybow tracks are loose fitting but the end connectors slip over
the pins to joint two links together. You have to either assemble them
as "link and length" with cement for the long runs or use paint to
increase the thickness of the pins to hold the end connectors on.

Don't understand why they have no holes in them.

Cookie Sewell

Cookie
TankBuilder2@yahoo.ca - 31 Dec 2008 01:50 GMT
On Dec 30, 7:58 pm, AMPS...@aol.com wrote:
> On Dec 30, 6:13 pm, TankBuild...@yahoo.ca wrote:
>
[quoted text clipped - 40 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -

Hi there Cookie.

I found the holes. They are located horizontally and I was looking for
them vertically. The parts tree was blocking my view of them.

Thanks again for your willingness to help.

Cheers and happy new year.

Peter
OM - 31 Dec 2008 04:10 GMT
>I found the holes. They are located horizontally and I was looking for
>them vertically. The parts tree was blocking my view of them.

...Not being snarky at all, but that statement sounds like a punch
line waiting for a joke to happen :-) :-) :-)

                OM
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  ]        Let's face it: Sometimes you *need*         [
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TankBuilder2@yahoo.ca - 31 Dec 2008 05:22 GMT
> >I found the holes. They are located horizontally and I was looking for
> >them vertically. The parts tree was blocking my view of them.
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>    ]          an obnoxious opinion in your day!           [
>    ]=====================================[

Hi there.

I know what you mean. The holes in these end connectors are hard to
see when they are on the parts tree because the end connecters are
molded *VERY* close to the runner. At least they won't be as bad to
assemble as those pesky Dragon Sherman Firefly individual track links
were.

Cheers from Peter
someone@some.domain - 31 Dec 2008 01:52 GMT
>On Dec 30, 6:13=EF=BF=BDpm, TankBuild...@yahoo.ca wrote:
>> On Dec 23, 8:46=EF=BF=BDpm, AMPS...@aol.com wrote:
[quoted text clipped - 37 lines]
>
>Cookie

i beg used bits or burrs, whatever dentists use and they make really good
holes and guides. i also use tlc thats been thickened with clear plastic sprue
dissolved in. gives more work time and dries stronger.
for really small holes, sewing needles make good drill bits. the drill is so
fast even a point will drill.
 
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