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Model Forum / General / Models / July 2009Decal Recovery (0/2)
While waiting for my Corsair decals to arrive, I have been playing with the old Otaki ones that came with the kit. They were severely cracked so I applied a layer of Klear (Future), followed by a layer of PVA white glue as a binder and finaly another layer of Klear. Each layer was left to dry for an hour. I managed to get the test decal onto the underside of the port wing in two pieces that aligned reasonably well. Once dry, a brushing with water followed by more Klear while still wet. Two pics attached of the process. First one shows the decal immediately after application to the wing and the second is once everything has dried out. Careful work with matching paint would cover the cracks quite nicely but I would only do this again as a last resort if there was no other option. > While waiting for my Corsair decals to arrive, I have been playing > with the old Otaki ones that came with the kit. [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > but I would only do this again as a last resort if there was no other > option. Interesting. I brush on Tamiya clear, which is much thicker than future/klear. I think this thickness helps bypass your glue layer. I've had success about half the times I've tried it. I wonder if tamiya clear and glue combines might be even better. > Interesting. I brush on Tamiya clear, which is much thicker than > future/klear. I think this thickness helps bypass your glue layer. > I've had success about half the times I've tried it. I wonder if > tamiya clear and glue combines might be even better. Why not just use Microscale Liquid Decal Film? Like the name implies it is the clear decal film used by Microscale supplied in liquid form. This stuff is designed as clear film for decals so it should be perfect for fixing decals. Peteski >> Interesting. I brush on Tamiya clear, which is much thicker than >> future/klear. I think this thickness helps bypass your glue layer. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > >Peteski I was not aware of the product, thanks. I have only recently returned to plastics after several decades and am still getting up to speed on new products since the 60s. In addition, I was playing around to see what I could achieve with what I had on hand at 2am :-) On Jul 8, 6:42 pm, "pete...@my-deja.com" <pete...@my-deja.com> wrote: > > Interesting. I brush on Tamiya clear, which is much thicker than > > future/klear. I think this thickness helps bypass your glue layer. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > Peteski The tamiya clear is on hand, works, and is relatively cheap. Otherwise I would! >> While waiting for my Corsair decals to arrive, I have been playing >> with the old Otaki ones that came with the kit. [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] >I've had success about half the times I've tried it. I wonder if >tamiya clear and glue combines might be even better. jpgs totaly trash text servers....now i can't see most posts. > While waiting for my Corsair decals to arrive, I have been playing > with the old Otaki ones that came with the kit. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > Once dry, a brushing with water followed by more Klear while still > wet. Nice that you got it right. I wonder, were the decals thin (like, say, Microscale/Superscale ones) or quite thick (like, say, Tamiya decals)? I've had poor luck repairing the thick ones myself.... > Two pics attached of the process. First one shows the decal > immediately after application to the wing and the second is once > everything has dried out. Um, rec.models.scale is a text newsgroup, so probably the photos are not a good idea --- originally the distinction between text and binary groups was kept so that people did not need to download massive uuencoded parts of messages including photos over their expensive and slow phone lines. This still holds true today, especially in the sense that "text is fast, binary is slow" response-wise. Besides, my provider of news, the redoubtable Motzarella, "only" supports text groups and probably strips off binary attachments. I wonder if you managed to get the pics posted (I'll check via Google Groups), I'd certainly be interested in seeing them! > Careful work with matching paint would cover the cracks quite nicely > but I would only do this again as a last resort if there was no other > option. :-) Nice to play around with inexpensive kits though, isn't it! Regards, Gernot >Nice that you got it right. I wonder, were the decals thin (like, say, >Microscale/Superscale ones) or quite thick (like, say, Tamiya decals)? >I've had poor luck repairing the thick ones myself.... Thicker than Tamiya decals. About like Airfix >Um, rec.models.scale is a text newsgroup, so probably the photos are not >a good idea --- originally the distinction between text and binary [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] >I wonder if you managed to get the pics posted (I'll check via Google >Groups), I'd certainly be interested in seeing them! Sorry, I reduced the pics to 50k each from the orginal 1.5Mb to avoid clogging up traffic. Will refrain from posting pics here and in future will put them in alt.binaries.models.scale >>Um, rec.models.scale is a text newsgroup, so probably the photos are not >>a good idea --- originally the distinction between text and binary [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] >clogging up traffic. Will refrain from posting pics here and in future >will put them in alt.binaries.models.scale cool, we do want to see them. > While waiting for my Corsair decals to arrive, I have been playing > with the old Otaki ones that came with the kit. [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > but I would only do this again as a last resort if there was no other > option. I have gotten into a habit of scanning the decals when I build older kits- I mean ones produced a long time ago. Of course, plain white decals are very difficult to replicate, but many others can be done okay. Even for white decals, if the background they are being applied over is a solid color, one can use that background color when making homemade decals, and you then do not need to cut perfectly around them. I have made white decals on dark background (using white decal paper) for a few scratch projects and they worked okay. >> While waiting for my Corsair decals to arrive, I have been playing >> with the old Otaki ones that came with the kit. [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] >I have made white decals on dark background (using white decal paper) >for a few scratch projects and they worked okay. Same here. I scanned the Otaki decals for reference. A while back I needed to make one-off checkerboarsd decals with NZ (ZK) registration for a Cessna 150 (built as a 152) so used the Lazertrans paper. As the plane is white there was no problem with the paper going white once dry. Ventura decals now applied to the Corsair and they are superb. Easy application, perfect registration and accurate colour. I will post a pic in the bin group soon. /../ > Ventura decals now applied to the Corsair and they are superb. Easy > application, perfect registration and accurate colour. I will post a > pic in the bin group soon. Congrats! I bet you had good fun doing this, and the success of the finishing touches is a moment of personal glory indeed :-) |
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