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Painting problems with model kitts

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pmaguire - 09 Sep 2009 21:11 GMT
Hi,

Last time I built a model kit was when I was a teenager,  15 years ago.  I
have a few Kitts lying around that I never got around to building.  I
recently decided to attempt to build some of those kits.

The problem is my experience in painting them.  15 years ago I was more
interested in assembling them,  leaving the model primaraly in its original
plastic colour with minimal detail painting.

I am working on an 18 Inch AMT Model of the Starship Enterprise that I had
bought back in 2001 while on Holidays in America.   To protect my furniture
I am working on top of layers of old Newspaper.   The problem is when the
paint drys the edges of the Model parts end up sticking to the paper,  some
of the paint seeps underneath so when the parts have dryed and I go to move
them,  bits of newspaper remain stuck to the model.

My query is what do others us as more suitable surface to allow their models
to dry?

Patrick
AMPSOne@aol.com - 09 Sep 2009 22:51 GMT
You don't say how you are painting the model or with what kind of
paints.

If the model has a stand, painting it first and THEN attaching the
model to the stand helps a lot in the case of something like the
Enterprise.

If you aren't used to painting it, spraying it white overall with a
spray can (model enamel or acrylic preferred) would be a good start,
followed by touch-up and detail painting with a brush.

You will need to get a gloss coat on the model in order to put the
decals on and have them "blend" into the finish (as well as not chip
off). They make spray cans of Testors Glosscoat and Dullcoat (which is
a flat lacquer to protect the model once done).

There are a number of books out there on painting with an airbrush,
which is the only really good way to go. You may want to pick one up
and see how it is done. Also if there is a model club around pay them
a visit -- most modelers are cheerful about helping the "newbies"
out.

Cookie Sewell
Stadia - 09 Sep 2009 23:50 GMT
>You don't say how you are painting the model or with what kind of
>paints.
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
>
>Cookie Sewell

I prepaint most of my models by brush as I have a compromised
respiratory system. My fume filter mask does not work with Tamiya
acrylic thinners for some reason so the airbrush is reserved for large
single colour areas with the window open. In general I use Humbrol
enamel for small parts.
To hold parts and models whilst painting and/or drying I have several
simple jigs made from left over sprue with supports from more sprue
and the thin foam used to pack computer components. For very small
parts, I attached them to sticks of sprue with Blutak and, once
painted, the sprue stick is poked into a block of styrene foam or the
edge of the corrogated cardboard carton I use a s aspray booth.
Welcome back, I am another plastic returnee after many years of
defection to R/C and real Cessnas.
For those who can view attached pix, I have attached a small yEnc of
my setup.

Tony Carr
Chch, NZ
pmaguire - 10 Sep 2009 22:27 GMT
> You don't say how you are painting the model or with what kind of
> paints.

Thank you for this responce,  I have 3 different size regulare brushes (I
dont have the budget for an airbrush) and Humbrol Enamels

> If the model has a stand, painting it first and THEN attaching the
> model to the stand helps a lot in the case of something like the
> Enterprise.

> If you aren't used to painting it, spraying it white overall with a
> spray can (model enamel or acrylic preferred) would be a good start,
> followed by touch-up and detail painting with a brush.

Are you suggesting I glue the model first then paint,  rather than what I am
aready doing which is Painting the individual parts first then gluing?

> You will need to get a gloss coat on the model in order to put the
> decals on and have them "blend" into the finish (as well as not chip
> off). They make spray cans of Testors Glosscoat and Dullcoat (which is
> a flat lacquer to protect the model once done).

Being from Ireland the only model kit paints, glues,  gloss coats etc are
either Humbrol or Revell.   I have noticed Humbrol do a "Decal Fix" Liquid
will this do the same job as a Glosscoat?

> There are a number of books out there on painting with an airbrush,
> which is the only really good way to go. You may want to pick one up
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> Cookie Sewell

I Colleague in work scratch builds models of Irish Busses,  I when talking
to him he seems to prefare regulare brushes instead if Airbrushes,  Although
his skill is so good he prefares to hand paint details instead of using
decals.

Patrick
AMPSOne@aol.com - 11 Sep 2009 02:05 GMT
> Thank you for this responce, �I have 3 different size regulare brushes (I
> dont have the budget for an airbrush) and Humbrol Enamels

An airbrush makes things much smoother and dry faster, but as noted
they do cost.

> Are you suggesting I glue the model first then paint, �rather than what I am
> aready doing which is Painting the individual parts first then gluing?

If most of the model is assembled (e.g big parts together and seams
filled/sanded) painting it then makes better sense, as you get a
better finish.

> Being from Ireland the only model kit paints, glues, �gloss coats etc are
> either Humbrol or Revell. � I have noticed Humbrol do a "Decal Fix" Liquid
> will this do the same job as a Glosscoat?

Revell makes both enamels and acrylics (for sales outside the US, as
we can't find any here) and I believe so does Humbrol.

The "Decal Fix" is a setting agent -- it helps the decal "snug down"
to the model. BUT it is used on top of gloss-coated models. (Most of
the comments here for those with airbrushes revolve around using
Johnson's Klear which is the equivalent of Future floor wax in the US
as it is an acrylic base which gives a good gloss coating for the
decals to adhere to.)

> I Colleague in work scratch builds models of Irish Busses, �I when talking
> to him he seems to prefare regulare brushes instead if Airbrushes, �Although
> his skill is so good he prefares to hand paint details instead of using
> decals.

Some guys are just really good!

Cookie Sewell
WmB - 09 Sep 2009 23:13 GMT
> Hi,
>
> Last time I built a model kit was when I was a teenager,  15 years ago.  I
> have a few Kitts lying around that I never got around to building.  I
> recently decided to attempt to build some of those kits.

Welcome back. The local hobby store owner likes to say we lose modelers from
time to time, but we always seem to get them back at least once.

> The problem is my experience in painting them.  15 years ago I was more
> interested in assembling them,  leaving the model primaraly in its
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>
> Patrick

Cardboard with newspaper or craft paper taped around it is my preference for
large parts resting on a large surface. I've had loose newspaper edges and
plastic sheet "kick up" from the blast from the airbrush. Sticking is not a
problem as the majority of my coats are light dusty dry coats. Something
like a car body that has to have repeated heavy wet coats of paint is best
suspended and fixtured from the unpainted side by wire or brackets on a
dedicated hobby fixture or homemade block of wood type assembly. Small parts
are either sticking to two sided tape or locked in a vise or gator clip.

I haven't watched this so I cannot attest to the soundness of any advice
given, I just Googled it to see what was out there. The modeler appears have
uploaded several small vids on his build. You might want to have a look:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-1-KQCaWdBY

As Mr Monk might say, having the resources of the internet at your disposal
is a blessing... and a curse.

WmB
willshak - 10 Sep 2009 13:22 GMT
on 9/9/2009 4:11 PM (ET) pmaguire wrote the following:
> Hi,
>
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>
> Patrick

Waxed paper. You know, the stuff that your Mom used to wrap your lunch
sandwich in before plastic wrap and bags came along.
I keep a taped piece on my workbench at all times just in case of
spillage, or to put a drop of CA or plastic glue on it in order to pick
up with a toothpick for intricate gluing.

Signature

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

Rufus - 11 Sep 2009 01:27 GMT
> Hi,
>
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>
> Patrick

Newspaper is the worst possible choice, IMO - not only do things stick
to it, but the newsprint rubbing off usually ends up spoiling an
otherwise nice paint job.

I have work surfaces dedicated to model building/painting now (simple 6
foot lengths of kitchen counter top, one supported on each end by a
couple moving boxes; the other just placed on top of a cheap desk), but
when I was a teen I used to work on a square of 1/2" plywood on top of
my bed.  When I was done for the session, I could simply slide
everything out of the way under my bed.

Scrap squares of cardboard work too...I collect those from scrapped
packing/shipping materials where I work.  I just dispose of them when
they get too over-sprayed.  Bent wire coat hangers also make great
painting/drying armatures.

...and about nothing will stick to wax paper.  You can roll out some wax
paper and tape or pin it right over your instructions and work right on
top of them.

Signature

     - Rufus

Don Stauffer - 11 Sep 2009 18:34 GMT
> Hi,
>
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>
> Patrick

If there are any openings for parts that are to be glued on later, I
stick a dowel or piece of piano wire as far as I can into the opening. I
have a couple of holes drilled in my workbench that I can stick the end
of dowel or wire into.

The solution varies from model to model. There is USUALLY an opening. If
not, however, I then find a natural seam and paint up to that seam
first, then paint the rest after the first area dries.

A variant is the stand that has two wires that can be squeezed together
to go into a small hole, but then expand to hold the model.  I believe
there are commercial stands like that sold by hobby dealers, but a
number of modelers build their own.
John McGrail - 22 Sep 2009 18:34 GMT
> I am working on an 18 Inch AMT Model of the Starship Enterprise that I had
> bought back in 2001 while on Holidays in America.   To protect my furniture
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> My query is what do others us as more suitable surface to allow their models
> to dry?

Toothpicks, foam blocks, spare sprue bits ...

Glue the part to the toothpick or spare sprue bit - hopefully somewhere that
is covered when the model is glued together.

paint away.  holding the stick.  stick it in the foam block until it
drys.

If you have to glue to a visible surface, you can touch the small area up
after removing the toothpick/sprue bit.

All sorts of things can be used in place of the toothpicks/spare sprue bits.

I have a bunch of popsicle sticks  with various small plastic and metal
clips glued to them.

Heck, you can even use masking tape to tape an object to a toothpick or
popscile stick in a pinch.

Signature

ratfood@food.skaterat.net
All foods should be removed to reply

The_Penguin - 22 Sep 2009 19:51 GMT
Various ways of holding modesl, or bits of model, for painting:

clothespegs make good handles. Uou can blu-tac the part or sub-asembly to the
model, using a point which , won't need to be painted.

You can attach a piece of sprue or a toothpick to the part or sub-assembly,
again using an area which isn't going to be painted. this can then be held in
a clothspeg, This mehod works quite well even for large-sih models or sub-
assemblies.

Toothpicks work well as temproary undercaarriage legs for small tp medium-
sized aircraft.

You can make a support framework out of lego bricks, If you use single-stud
bricks to support the model directly, and choose an inconsipcuous place (eg
the underside of a tank's hull) the effect on the paint job is negligable.

Just a few ideas which have worked for me.

Cheers,

Chris.

>> I am working on an 18 Inch AMT Model of the Starship Enterprise that I had
>> bought back in 2001 while on Holidays in America.   To protect my furniture
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>Heck, you can even use masking tape to tape an object to a toothpick or
>popscile stick in a pinch.
 
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