>You don't say how you are painting the model or with what kind of
>paints.
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>
>Cookie Sewell
I prepaint most of my models by brush as I have a compromised
respiratory system. My fume filter mask does not work with Tamiya
acrylic thinners for some reason so the airbrush is reserved for large
single colour areas with the window open. In general I use Humbrol
enamel for small parts.
To hold parts and models whilst painting and/or drying I have several
simple jigs made from left over sprue with supports from more sprue
and the thin foam used to pack computer components. For very small
parts, I attached them to sticks of sprue with Blutak and, once
painted, the sprue stick is poked into a block of styrene foam or the
edge of the corrogated cardboard carton I use a s aspray booth.
Welcome back, I am another plastic returnee after many years of
defection to R/C and real Cessnas.
For those who can view attached pix, I have attached a small yEnc of
my setup.
Tony Carr
Chch, NZ
> You don't say how you are painting the model or with what kind of
> paints.
Thank you for this responce, I have 3 different size regulare brushes (I
dont have the budget for an airbrush) and Humbrol Enamels
> If the model has a stand, painting it first and THEN attaching the
> model to the stand helps a lot in the case of something like the
> Enterprise.
> If you aren't used to painting it, spraying it white overall with a
> spray can (model enamel or acrylic preferred) would be a good start,
> followed by touch-up and detail painting with a brush.
Are you suggesting I glue the model first then paint, rather than what I am
aready doing which is Painting the individual parts first then gluing?
> You will need to get a gloss coat on the model in order to put the
> decals on and have them "blend" into the finish (as well as not chip
> off). They make spray cans of Testors Glosscoat and Dullcoat (which is
> a flat lacquer to protect the model once done).
Being from Ireland the only model kit paints, glues, gloss coats etc are
either Humbrol or Revell. I have noticed Humbrol do a "Decal Fix" Liquid
will this do the same job as a Glosscoat?
> There are a number of books out there on painting with an airbrush,
> which is the only really good way to go. You may want to pick one up
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>
> Cookie Sewell
I Colleague in work scratch builds models of Irish Busses, I when talking
to him he seems to prefare regulare brushes instead if Airbrushes, Although
his skill is so good he prefares to hand paint details instead of using
decals.
Patrick
AMPSOne@aol.com - 11 Sep 2009 02:05 GMT
> Thank you for this responce, �I have 3 different size regulare brushes (I
> dont have the budget for an airbrush) and Humbrol Enamels
An airbrush makes things much smoother and dry faster, but as noted
they do cost.
> Are you suggesting I glue the model first then paint, �rather than what I am
> aready doing which is Painting the individual parts first then gluing?
If most of the model is assembled (e.g big parts together and seams
filled/sanded) painting it then makes better sense, as you get a
better finish.
> Being from Ireland the only model kit paints, glues, �gloss coats etc are
> either Humbrol or Revell. � I have noticed Humbrol do a "Decal Fix" Liquid
> will this do the same job as a Glosscoat?
Revell makes both enamels and acrylics (for sales outside the US, as
we can't find any here) and I believe so does Humbrol.
The "Decal Fix" is a setting agent -- it helps the decal "snug down"
to the model. BUT it is used on top of gloss-coated models. (Most of
the comments here for those with airbrushes revolve around using
Johnson's Klear which is the equivalent of Future floor wax in the US
as it is an acrylic base which gives a good gloss coating for the
decals to adhere to.)
> I Colleague in work scratch builds models of Irish Busses, �I when talking
> to him he seems to prefare regulare brushes instead if Airbrushes, �Although
> his skill is so good he prefares to hand paint details instead of using
> decals.
Some guys are just really good!
Cookie Sewell