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Rigging Planes with Sections of Wire - Works ?

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Musicman59 - 29 Nov 2009 01:24 GMT
Since I seem to have developed a habit of starting a kit and never
finishing it, I thought I might as well start this habit on my
collection of WWI aircraft. If I have to have bits of thread all over
the place, it just is not gonna happen.  If I can build and paint
first and then add rigging, the thing just might get built.

Thought I read over the years that an alternative to rigging is
cutting sections of wire and just inserting them in the holes where
the thread would go. A bit of CA glue and its all done.

I have the 1/32 and 1/28? Revell kits to build (Spad, Camel, Fokker
tri wing, etc) . Is there an appropriate size wire for this scale?
Hoping that thin wire will not sag.

And just is the rigging used on the planes made of?   Is it wire or
rope of some kind?  And I noticed in the instructions that they make
no mention of what color rigging is.  Ideas on that one?

thx much - Craig
someone@some.domain - 29 Nov 2009 02:46 GMT
>Since I seem to have developed a habit of starting a kit and never
>finishing it, I thought I might as well start this habit on my
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
>thx much - Craig

ever think of sewing the rigging like fixing a hole? it's pretty easy and
fast.
try a lindberg gladiator, it has the holes and order mapped out.
Nigel Heather the-heathers.co.uk> - 29 Nov 2009 08:57 GMT
A trick I learnt when making electronics projects is that single core wire
stretches.  The stuff used in electronics will stretch by around 10%.  Two
things happen when you do this - it goes slightly thinner (the insulation
slides right off) and it goes absolutely straight and quite rigid.  So when
making wire links on PCB you simply cut a piece of insulation the exact
length required, thread some wire though and you have an uber-neat link,
dead straight and just the right size.

I've not tried using wire to rig but if I were I would try streching it
first, obviously more gently because it is thinner because it would go
straight and rigid.

As for colour.  Well real rigging wires were wire.  I doubt that they were
often painted so I imagined that they started off the colour of fresh wire
(silver, a little oxidised so not so bright).  As time when by I imagine
they would have got ingrained with oil, dirt, soot, exhaust, gunsmoke so
would have become darker.

Cheers,

Nigel

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Rufus - 29 Nov 2009 17:29 GMT
> Since I seem to have developed a habit of starting a kit and never
> finishing it, I thought I might as well start this habit on my
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
> thx much - Craig

In the very early days it was a wire cable, but if you go looking at
something like a Stearman you'll find an airfoil sectioned, solid metal
"wire" that's tapered and threaded at each end with a jam nut and
clevis.  The color is generally raw aluminum or steel...stainless steel
if it's a high-class job.

So...as always - depending on the subject you're building, you'll find
something different.  There are places out there where you can get
airfoil sectioned styrene "rod" or strip that works quite nicely, and
there is a company that makes etched flying wires.  I've also heard of
using fishing line, and I have some .3 mm carbon fiber stuff called
"Wonder Wire" that I use - I forget where I got it.

Signature

     - Rufus

Gray Ghost - 29 Nov 2009 17:40 GMT
>> Since I seem to have developed a habit of starting a kit and never
>> finishing it, I thought I might as well start this habit on my
[quoted text clipped - 28 lines]
> using fishing line, and I have some .3 mm carbon fiber stuff called
> "Wonder Wire" that I use - I forget where I got it.

Precision Enterprises.
P.O. Box 97F
Springfield VT. 05156
Phone: 802-885-3094 after 5:00pm EST

Put Wonder Wire in your favorite browser. Very interesting results.

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Rufus - 29 Nov 2009 19:08 GMT
>>> Since I seem to have developed a habit of starting a kit and never
>>> finishing it, I thought I might as well start this habit on my
[quoted text clipped - 34 lines]
>
> Put Wonder Wire in your favorite browser. Very interesting results.

...now that's my kinda brace-up!

Signature

     - Rufus

Gray Ghost - 29 Nov 2009 19:48 GMT
>>>> Since I seem to have developed a habit of starting a kit and never
>>>> finishing it, I thought I might as well start this habit on my
[quoted text clipped - 36 lines]
>
> ...now that's my kinda brace-up!

Stiff upper lip, what!

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Don Stauffer - 29 Nov 2009 17:30 GMT
> Since I seem to have developed a habit of starting a kit and never
> finishing it, I thought I might as well start this habit on my
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
> thx much - Craig

Earliest planes through WW1 were rigged with cable (multistranded wire).
 Just about end of war, and through the twenties and even into the
thirties came "flying wire), a single piece of metal with a somewhat
streamlined shape.

For the former you can use a VERY thin electrical or other stranded
wire, or a flexible solid wire.  Solid wire is okay to simulate stranded
cable in 1:72 or 1:48 scale.  For 1:32 consider stranded wire.  For the
one-piece flying wire, thin stainless steel piano wire is frequently
used.  .020 is the smallest regularly available that is stiff enough to
hold its shape.  A little heavy for 1:72 but fine for 1:48 and 1:32
(heavier piano wire may be better for latter, however).

Alternatives in thread are grey thread for the cable type, or
monofilament painted or dyed with silver for flying wires.
Rufus - 29 Nov 2009 19:12 GMT
>> Since I seem to have developed a habit of starting a kit and never
>> finishing it, I thought I might as well start this habit on my
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
> Alternatives in thread are grey thread for the cable type, or
> monofilament painted or dyed with silver for flying wires.

If you take some gray, black, or white cotton thread and spray it with
Testors Metalizer and then pull that though a napkin a few times, that
also makes a pretty convincing "stranded cable".  Follow with a spritz
of flat or gloss coat as usual to seal it.  It'll also be a bit stiffer,
which is a plus too.

Signature

     - Rufus

 
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