Model Forum / General / Models / January 2010

Oh - the label on the paint does say "aqueous based acrylic paint" and
"water to thin".

Thin the paint to the consistency of skim milk.
That almost always seems to work for me.
Done this way, I try to spray at around 16 psi.
Up to 30 psi max. Any more and over spray will
result bigtime.

There really is no such thing as paint that is too thin.
The thinner it is, the more coats you will need to get
coverage. (unless you thin it down to a wash consistency)

I don't know why soo many people try to get something to
cover in only one coat of paint. The thinner the better
IMHO. Multiple thin coats are always better.

Keep playing with it, it will work for you.

I also use an Aztec airbrush, and tho it works OK, the
needle assembly does give some *splatter* and or
inconsistency when spraying...

I would suggest practicing first using ink, ordinary fountain pen ink,
and paper.  This was suggested to me in the little pamphlet that came
with my Badger 150 many moons ago.  This lets you practice air and
colour control, masking, getting the spraying distance right and the
effects of layering, all practically for free.

Make sure the vent hole in the lid of the jar is open.  The airbrush
uses the venturi effect to draw paint from the jar and will have trouble
if the jar is sealed tight.

The A270 is a single-action external mix airbrush, so you don't have to
worry about controlling the colour as you spray.  This is a good way to
start out, but is best for applying large areas of paint, controlled by
masking.

I've never got on with acrylics, finding that they dry too quickly,
leaving deposits in the nozzle and (in severe cases) drying between the
airbrush and the surface, giving an attractive flock effect :-)  I use
enamels, which I find easier to control.  However many people have
success with acrylics.  There is a product (acrylic drying time
extender, or just extender) that will reduce the tendency to clog.

Paint thinning is something that you can only learn by practice.  The
consistency of milk is quite variable, when you think about it.  This is
only meant as a starting point.  You should be OK thinning with water.

Don't try to get a solid colour layer in one pass.  Several light coats
often give more depth to the colour and better adhesion.  This is the
airbrushes greatest strength, the ability to overcoat straight away as
there is no brush touching the surface.  The airbrush was invented to
allow water-colour artists to overlay colours.

I found this site while googling to check what an A270 was.  It seems to
have some reasonable advice, but it is aimed more at artists than modellers.

http://www.howtoairbrush.com/index.php

I use enamels, but maybe the same idea would work with acyrlics. I have
found a mixture that works well on new bottles (1:1) and stick with it.
 If the paint is old and has thickened up, then I add thinner to
airbrush bottle and try spray. If still too thick I add some more.

As far as learning, I'd say the same advise that works for getting to
Carnaigee (or however you spell it) hall- Practice-practice-practice. I
would recommend that a novice airbrush user practice for at least an
hour on scrap or old discarded plastic before trying to paint a good kit.

I prefer thinner based paints - but have read articles where some claim to
use rubbing  alcohlol as a least part of the thinner - the though is it
evaoprates quicker than water so the paint gets through  the airbrush and
looses some thinner on the way to the model. If the paint goes on the model
too wet it runs, too dry is makes a rough surface. I remember my first
adventures with an airbrush were somewhat frustrating.  word of caution -
over 30 psi you can inject the paint under your skin - be careful on
pressure.

    Sounds like the paint is drying too quickly. It is summer
   down under. What is the temperature?

    I have been recommended to use the Tamiya Lacquer Thinner.
  Yes, I know. It seems just plain wrong. But, it seems to work.
  I used it to put down some Aqueous Hobby color on my LVTP-7.

    And it worked for the Tamiya Dark Yellow as well as the
  Panzer Grey.

    Problem with water is it does not have any retarders in it
  nor any flow enhancers. Plus, your compressor can be running
  hot, adding to your heat problems. And minerals and chemicals in
  tap water can do "interesting things"(TM) to paint, so make sure
  to use distilled (not just filtered) water, if you go that route.

    Generally, no. But, I would have to note that "clears" are
   probably an exception, since they should have less pigment.

    No sites, but some suggestions:

1) Get a "test mule" - a model that you can try the paint on, and
  satisfy yourself that it is at the correct pressure for the
  paint consistency. No running, etc.

2) Start "off the model" - if you have some paint build up on the
  tip, it won't splatter the model. Likewise,

3) Stop "off the model"

4) Get a paint stirrer. I have a Badger, but it is a cheap piece if **it.
  The dongle on the end is loose, the paint stirrer falls off the motor
  shaft. But, it works. Much better than the toothpicks I used before.

5) Practice.

6) Keep the airbrush spotless when not being used.

7) When the paint is in the airbrush cup/bottle, it should thinly coat
  the sides (so you can't see throught it if glass nor see the chrome
  if a cup). Skim milk is a good target range for consistency. I use
  around 1 part thinner to 2 parts paint, but I use pretty low pressure.

                            Bruce

For what it's worth, I started out with an Aztek A470 and never did
have any luck with it. Frustrated the crap out of me, which I
originally attributed to inexperience but now I'm not so sure. After a
few months I replaced the Aztek with a Paasche VL and immediately
began getting better results. That was five years ago, and I now use
that Paasche along with an Iwata.

Properly thinned paint is definitely important, along with air
pressure. I use ModelMaster and Tamiya acrylics exclusively, and
always use the manufacturer's thinner. Air pressure/paint consistency
seems to be an elusive art; what works for one doesn't necessarily
work for someone else. You'll have to experiment, but hang in there
and you'll definitely figure it out. If I can do it, anyone can.

I say good riddance to the Aztek, but I must qualify that by noting
I've read that many folks own and love their Aztek airbrushes, so it's
very possible that the Aztek and I just never did get along.

-- david

Boy! The Aztek, although about 2 months old, is leaking air through the
trigger like nothing else. I have had nothing but trouble from it and
would not recommend it to anyone.

The Badger, on the other hand, worked beautifully first time. It was
easy to clean, didn't clog, and I am learning to regulate both the air
flow and paint flow.

I don't know if I can get my money back on the Aztek, but it is a POS
and going in the bin if I can't get a refund.