Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us
Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network
Home
Discussion Groups
General
ModelsRailroadsRockets
Radio Controlled
Air ModelsHelicoptersLand ModelsWater Models
ModelGeeks.com
Contact UsLink To UsSearch & Site Map

Model Forum / General / Models / February 2010



Tip: Looking for answers? Try searching our database.

Best glue to temporarily mount figures on styrene ?

Thread view: 
Enable EMail Alerts  Start New Thread
Thread rating: 
Musicman59 - 05 Feb 2010 22:50 GMT
I plan to focus on getting the boxes and boxes of 1/35 figures built,
to be painted and used someday.   I know if I build them, put them in
a bag and clip to the box art then drop them in a box, they will for
sure never see the light of day

So I thought I would get some sheet styrene and mount the little
buggers on the sheet so I can see what I have. And they can all look
back at me and make me feel guilty.
I have over 50  1/35 sets so I really have to get them built.

Best glue for this?  Just need a little to get them to set on the
sheets. Tube glue the best? I thought that CA would grab hold too much
then I would have to work at getting them off. with tube glue I can
just can add just enough to get them to stick while not bonding too
strongly.

Craig
eyeball - 06 Feb 2010 01:11 GMT
> I plan to focus on getting the boxes and boxes of 1/35 figures built,
> to be painted and used someday.   I know if I build them, put them in
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>
> Craig

I'd go with plain old elmers white glue. Or if it's just to look at,
tack them in place with modeling putty.
Musicman59 - 06 Feb 2010 03:31 GMT
> > I plan to focus on getting the boxes and boxes of 1/35 figures built,
> > to be painted and used someday.   I know if I build them, put them in
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
> I'd go with plain old elmers white glue. Or if it's just to look at,
> tack them in place with modeling putty.

thx. never thought of white glue.  the guys could be glued there for
years. they won't be moved at all so maybe white glue would work.  I
will give it a try.  I hope to go through 3-4 boxes during the Super
Bowl.

Craig
Don Stauffer - 07 Feb 2010 17:17 GMT
>>> I plan to focus on getting the boxes and boxes of 1/35 figures built,
>>> to be painted and used someday.   I know if I build them, put them in
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
>
> Craig

I second the white glue.  Hot water will weaken it, and the glue can be
cleaned off. It does not dissolve into the styrene.
Moramarth - 06 Feb 2010 13:56 GMT
> I plan to focus on getting the boxes and boxes of 1/35 figures built,
> to be painted and used someday.   I know if I build them, put them in
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> buggers on the sheet so I can see what I have. And they can all look
> back at me and make me feel guilty.

It'll never work - ask any wargamer.
There's a well known sequence:
Purchase
Prepare
Assemble
Prime/Undercoat
Forget.

There are whole armies out there like that - some of them in my spare
room...

A lot of them are white glued to temporary bases  - when the rule
system uses elements, its best to first rank up figures to see how
they'll fit together on the permanent base, then put them on a
temporary base at a much wider spacing for ease of painting (and co-
ordinating/differentiating colours - more important with irregular/
barbarian/fantasy forces where you want to avoid uniformity).
The MOST RECENT force I have in this state has been waiting 5 years
for a simple paint job (but given they're mostly-naked Barbarians, I'm
contemplating tattoos to   improve the look, and that will be a bitch
in 28mm scale...)

> I have over 50  1/35 sets so I really have to get them built.
That's about 200+ figures?  The new plastic Perry Miniatures 28mm Wars
of the Roses figures are 40 per box, 1 box = 1 unit, and they haven't
released the cavalry yet..

Regards,

> Craig

Moramarth
Musicman59 - 06 Feb 2010 15:36 GMT
> > I plan to focus on getting the boxes and boxes of 1/35 figures built,
> > to be painted and used someday.   I know if I build them, put them in
[quoted text clipped - 38 lines]
>
> Moramarth

Oh, I feel so much better now.   I think we all knew when we started
buying and buying kits we were basically screwed.  Good to know now
that is official. :-)

Craig
Rob Kelk - 06 Feb 2010 16:08 GMT
<snip>

>It'll never work - ask any wargamer.
>There's a well known sequence:
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>There are whole armies out there like that - some of them in my spare
>room...

You get all the way to "Prime/Undercoat"? (looks at boxes of unprimed
figures) My hat's off to you...

Signature

Rob Kelk
Personal address, in ROT-13: eboxryx -ng- tznvy -qbg- pbz

Moramarth - 06 Feb 2010 19:30 GMT
> You get all the way to "Prime/Undercoat"? (looks at boxes of unprimed
> figures) My hat's off to you...
Not any more, and seldom even when I was more active in my hobbies.
Now the sequence is:
Purchase
Open package and inspect contents
Despair
Set aside and try to forget (Surprisingly successful - approaching
senility has it's advantages...)
Find out about new product
Repeat cycle

I've pretty much stopped going to shows, and given up my magazine
subscriptions, but I can't cure the Stash Augmentation Disease...
Why did Wargames Factory and Warrior Miniatures both have to release
Multi-part hard plastic  28mm Celts where the bits are
interchangeable???

Regards,
> Rob Kelk

Moramarth
Mad Modeller - 08 Feb 2010 05:31 GMT
>  
>> You get all the way to "Prime/Undercoat"? (looks at boxes of unprimed
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
> Moramarth
>  
  My guess is that they know you'll buy many sets and never finish
any.  Meanwhile their bank account grows. ;)

Bill Banaszak, MFE Sr.
Moramarth - 09 Feb 2010 00:23 GMT
> > Why did Wargames Factory and Warrior Miniatures both have to release
> > Multi-part hard plastic  28mm Celts where the bits are
> > interchangeable???
>
>    My guess is that they know you'll buy many sets and never finish
> any.  Meanwhile their bank account grows. ;)
Too damn true - and the kit manufacturers have known it for years!
But my fate was sealed when the wargame boys realised they could cause
me to revert to my childhood by having me build something plastic...
AND THEN PLAY WITH IT!!!

At this rate I'll soon be back to Lego...  (the big stuff, that is,
not the freebie mini-kits that get given away at W H Smiths with
vouchers from newspapers - I've done that already...)

The only flickering remnant of my modeller's identity is when I look
at something like this < http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/kilkrusha.htm >
and think "I could do something like that cheaper - where did I put
that KV-1?"

Cheers,
> Bill

Moramarth
Mad Modeller - 09 Feb 2010 04:58 GMT
>  But my fate was sealed when the wargame boys realised they could cause
>  me to revert to my childhood by having me build something plastic...
>  AND THEN PLAY WITH IT!!!

Yeah, I had a ball at the toy show in November and very little involved
models. Let's just say that the Marx cavalry squad may have to be
divided into two troops.

Bill Banaszak, MFE Sr
Dave Ambrose - 06 Feb 2010 16:35 GMT
> Best glue for this?  Just need a little to get them to set on the
> sheets. Tube glue the best? I thought that CA would grab hold too much
> then I would have to work at getting them off. with tube glue I can
> just can add just enough to get them to stick while not bonding too
> strongly.

I like to use a hot-melt glue gun for these tasks. The glue is rubbery,
and cuts easily with a sharp knife, but holds well enough to be useful.

Cheers,
Dave Ambrose
PaPa Peng - 06 Feb 2010 21:42 GMT
> Best glue for this?  Just need a little to get them to set on the
> sheets.

From my previous post.  Get SLUDGE from an artists' supplies shop.
---------------------------------------------------------------

From: PaPa Peng <papape...@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 04:50:09 -0800 (PST)
Local: Sun, Dec 27 2009 5:50 am
Subject: Re: ARM: Review - AFV Club 1/35 scale T-34 Model 1942 -
Special Edition

On Dec 26, 6:14 pm, AMPS...@aol.com wrote:

>         The turret is nicely done and comes with a very complete F-34 gun
> breech and coaxial DT machine gun back end. There are details
> everywhere you look, but the clear plastic turret will cause some
> problems when completed due to attaching the parts to the inside.

To adhere small parts without scarring the plastic as would happen if
regular plastic glue is used the adhesive I use is Acrylic Sludge  <
http://www.tri-art.ca/en/products/sludge/ > .  Quote: "SLUDGE is the
newest Tri-Art acrylic to hit the shelves. It is a by-product of
acrylic paint manufacturing. It is the combination of the precipitated
solids amassed from our wash water, which has then been re-processed
into thick and thin acrylic paint formats."

Put a blob of SLUDGE on the part as well as on the surface it is to be
attached to.  It will take more than 10 minutes to dry somewhat.
Therefore lay it level so that the part won't slide out of position.
SLUDGE is exactly the same stuff as acrylic paint.  It will dry into a
thin meniscus that will be practically invisible.  The best part is
you can paint the small part to its finished colors then apply SLUDGE
onto the painted surface.  Sludge won't dissolve the paint or smear
it.  If you don't like the positioning of your part just pull it off
(the adhesion is stronger than your think) and rub off the "skin."
You may not even need to do this.  The painted surfaces won't be
affected.  Then reapply to new position.  SLUDGE is excellent for
attaching small pre-painted parts like small arms, water canteens,
bayonets, etc. to figures or boxes, tarps, bags, tools, etc. to armor
vehicle surfaces.

The other excellent application is for attaching clear plastic cockpit
canopies and windshields.  SLUDGE won't fog the clear plastic and yet
provides very strong adhesion.  It will also fill paper thin gaps.

The final application is to adhere different materials to each other
such as wood to metal to plastic to ceramics to paper.  If that
material can accept acrylic paint SLUDGE will adhere to it.
Master Gunner - 07 Feb 2010 18:50 GMT
> > Best glue for this?  Just need a little to get them to set on the
> > sheets.
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
> On Dec 26, 6:14 pm, AMPS...@aol.com wrote:

snipped

> To adhere small parts without scarring the plastic as would happen if
> regular plastic glue is used the adhesive I use is Acrylic Sludge  <http://www.tri-art.ca/en/products/sludge/> .  Quote: "SLUDGE is the
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
> such as wood to metal to plastic to ceramics to paper.  If that
> material can accept acrylic paint SLUDGE will adhere to it.

Shalom.

Is this SLUDGE similar to Humbrol ClearFix?

Thanks and cheers from Peter
PaPa Peng - 08 Feb 2010 00:30 GMT
> > > Best glue for this?  Just need a little to get them to set on the
> > > sheets.
[quoted text clipped - 47 lines]
>
> Thanks and cheers from Peter

No idea what ClearFix is.  Sludge is thick like hair mousse.  ClearFix
sound like Future Wax type solution.
 
Sign In
Join
My Latest Posts
My Monitored Threads
My Blog
My Photo Gallery
My Profile
My Homepage

Start New Thread
Enable EMail Alerts
Rate this Thread



©2010 Advenet LLC   Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.