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Model Forum / General / Models / May 2010Starship Enterprise glueing problem
Hi, I am almost finished my 18 Inch AMT Model of the Starship Enterprise but have run into a problem. I have the 4 subassembles built and have so far glued 3 of them together being carefull to allign the warp engines while glueing them to the engineering hull. I did this with elastic bands and leaving to dry upside down on a table. The problem, does anyone have any idea how to keep the saucer section stable when I glue it to the neck so that it does not dry lopsided? Thank you Patrick >Hi, > [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > >Patrick What type of glue are you using - I strictly use Ambroid Pro-Weld or Tenax 7R Both are "welding" cements - meaning they melt and join the styrene into a single piece - like Testors - but the drying times are incredibly short - 7-10 seconds to basic-set for the Ambroid - 30 second to full strength bond The Ambroid comes with a brush, use an old fine tip one with the Tenax Hold the pieces together and brush the cement along the junction - hold for a minute or so - and you're done I'm using a medium viscous cement "Revell Contacta Professional". >>Hi, >> [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > Hold the pieces together and brush the cement along the junction - > hold for a minute or so - and you're done It's that "medium viscosity" that gives me pause A pure polystyrene welding cement should be as thin as water I'd give either Tenax or Ambroid a try, I don't use anything else on my styrene >I'm using a medium viscous cement "Revell Contacta Professional". > [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] >> Hold the pieces together and brush the cement along the junction - >> hold for a minute or so - and you're done Being based in Ireland its either Revell or Humbrol. > It's that "medium viscosity" that gives me pause > [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] >>> Hold the pieces together and brush the cement along the junction - >>> hold for a minute or so - and you're done www.creativemodels.co.uk Carries Ambroid I'm sure there are places in Eire that also carry it, just check around Other than that, the best I can offer is build a custom stand out of spare balsa/foam to support the primary hull while the dorsal-interconnect glue joint sets and dries >Being based in Ireland its either Revell or Humbrol. > [quoted text clipped - 36 lines] >>>> Hold the pieces together and brush the cement along the junction - >>>> hold for a minute or so - and you're done > I am almost finished my 18 Inch AMT Model of the Starship Enterprise but > have run into a problem. > The problem, does anyone have any idea how to keep the saucer section > stable when I glue it to the neck so that it does not dry lopsided? Rest the saucer upside down on 4-6 blocks spaced around the rim. Position some more blocks for the engines to rest on, again upside down. You can use Lego bricks, CD cases, paint bottles, or anything else that'll provide a stable support. The tops of the engines aren't supposed to be level with the top of the sauscer's edge, so the blocks supporting the saucer will have to be higher than those supporting the engines. Test-fit the whole thing to make sure the saucer & engines will sit in perfect alignment before you glue it. Thanks, building a Lego Dry Dock for the glue to dry worked perfectly. >> I am almost finished my 18 Inch AMT Model of the Starship Enterprise but >> have run into a problem. [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > the > saucer & engines will sit in perfect alignment before you glue it. : Thanks, building a Lego Dry Dock for the glue to dry worked perfectly. Interesting solution. I'll have to remember that when (if) Polar Lights ever gets around to producing the 1/350 Enterprise they should have in the first place. Bruce  Signature------------------------------------------------------------------------ "I like bad!" Bruce Burden Austin, TX. - Thuganlitha The Power and the Prophet Robert Don Hughes > Thanks, building a Lego Dry Dock for the glue to dry worked perfectly. I have a lot of Lego I use for building various jigs for when I assemble kits or do some scratchbuilding. I never just play with the Lego. Never. Honestly. Regards, Moramarth >> Thanks, building a Lego Dry Dock for the glue to dry worked perfectly. >> [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > >Moramarth that deathstar on your bench self assembled? : that deathstar on your bench self assembled? I bet it was the underpants gnomes! Bruce Signature------------------------------------------------------------------------ "I like bad!" Bruce Burden Austin, TX. - Thuganlitha The Power and the Prophet Robert Don Hughes >: that deathstar on your bench self assembled? >: > I bet it was the underpants gnomes! > > Bruce think they go that far? : think they go that far? Classic misdirection ploy! Bruce Signature------------------------------------------------------------------------ "I like bad!" Bruce Burden Austin, TX. - Thuganlitha The Power and the Prophet Robert Don Hughes >: think they go that far? >: > Classic misdirection ploy! > > Bruce now, just a simple observation. > >> Thanks, building a Lego Dry Dock for the glue to dry worked perfectly. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > Moramarth > And I never 'fly' a plane over my workbench. Bill Banaszak, MFE Sr. >>> Thanks, building a Lego Dry Dock for the glue to dry worked perfectly. >>> [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] >> > And I never 'fly' a plane over my workbench. Or make the swooshing sounds, right? SignatureGordon Davie Edinburgh, Scotland "Slipped the surly bonds of Earth...to touch the face of God." > Hi, > [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > Patrick The nacelle thing has always baffled me. In the 40 years since the nasty AMT kit came out, you would think some model company would engineer the nacelle pieces to take care of the "one is always crooked" issue. Craig >Hi, > [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > >Patrick styrofoam or it's cousins make quick and effective jigs. if you screw up a chunk, cut another. > Hi, > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > The problem, does anyone have any idea how to keep the saucer section > stable when I glue it to the neck so that it does not dry lopsided? You need to reinforce the hull plating by boosting the confinement beam on the deflector dish. This will require full power from the warp engines but, as long as you don't exceed 5000 kilodynes the injector manifolds should handle it. ...sorry, couldn't help myself. > > Hi, > [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > ...sorry, couldn't help myself. I've always wondered if the writers for Next Gen laughed themselves silly writing the stuff for Geordi to say. I'll take Scotty any day. Craig > > "pmaguire" <patrickmagui...@gmail.com> wrote in message > [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > > - Show quoted text - Sometimes to build the AMT kit, you ~need~ the help of a "miracle worker".... That's why I preferred the 1:1000 Polar Lights version. |
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