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Model Forum / General / Models / April 2004



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how to fix glue smear on windshield?

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Artist - 04 Apr 2004 12:17 GMT
If I got a partially built car kit that has some glue smeared on the
windshield, do you think I could fix it by using a dremel tool along
with something like a buffing wheel and emery compound so that it
would be nice and clear again?
Bill Woodier - 04 Apr 2004 13:12 GMT
I'd be careful about using the Dremel and buffing wheel.  It can quickly get
away from you and burn into the plastic, creating an even bigger mess.  

It all depends on how much glue is in the clear part and how deeply it has
etched the plastic.  If it's etched really deep, it may be beyond fixing.
 
However, try this:  Wet sanding the area with very fine sandpaper (like 1200
grit).  Then go over it again with a super-fine grit, like 2400.  Once that is
done, buff it by hand with a soft cloth (like an old "T" shirt) and plastic
polish.  Finish up with a coat of Future.

 
"The world would be a much simpler place if every one could pick
and choose their obligations, but we can't and we shouldn't."
                         Major Charles W. Whittlesey
Mark Schynert - 04 Apr 2004 17:31 GMT
> I'd be careful about using the Dremel and buffing wheel.  It can quickly get
> away from you and burn into the plastic, creating an even bigger mess.  
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> and choose their obligations, but we can't and we shouldn't."
>                           Major Charles W. Whittlesey

Do not use a Dremel. Even at the lower speeds, the buffing attachment
will destroy the windshield, because it generates too much heat. I don't
know about specific grits, but using the Squadron or Flexifile sanding
sticks, which come in four or five grits, plus a three-surface polisher,
I can get real close to a smooth refinish, and Future usually fixes what
haze is left. I would guess even 2400 is still a little too coarse as
the last step before polishing, but there are finer grits available
(Micromark?)

Mark Schynert
Gray Ghost - 04 Apr 2004 18:28 GMT
>> I'd be careful about using the Dremel and buffing wheel.  It can
>> quickly get away from you and burn into the plastic, creating an even
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
>
> Mark Schynert

Someone (name escapes me at the moment) makes fine polishing/sanding
cloths in progressive grits from like 1800 to 12000. I'm a putz and I can
get anything smooth and clear with that, just patience and perseverance.
e - 04 Apr 2004 20:36 GMT
>>> I'd be careful about using the Dremel and buffing wheel.  It can
>>> quickly get away from you and burn into the plastic, creating an even
[quoted text clipped - 28 lines]
>cloths in progressive grits from like 1800 to 12000. I'm a putz and I can
>get anything smooth and clear with that, just patience and perseverance.

many monument and marker co'c sell grits up to 10k.
Scott Truesdell - 05 Apr 2004 23:49 GMT
There is a high probability that the glue has eaten away some of the
plastic. If this is the case, it will be a lot more difficult to fix.

MicroMesh rubber-backed abrasives (they go up to 12,000 grit) will do the
job. You can get a kit at MicroMark tools. http://www.micromark.com/ Type
in "mesh" into their search box. This is a neat source for all kinds of
good stuff!

Dipping the polished part in Future floor "wax" will fill in the very tiny
scratches left over from polishing.

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TED TAYLOR - 07 Apr 2004 09:17 GMT
I recently ruined a wind screen with superglue and superglue remover which
ended up in a fine mess but when hard I sanded first with 1000 grade paper
then followed up with a well worn 1200 grade, once everything was smooth and
flat again I used some canopy polish to bring it back to a better condition
than the original. You can dip it in future and let it dry which also does a
good job,
good luck , you need it I think.

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