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Model Forum / General / Models / June 2004Cleaning Models Prior to Painting
Hi all, Can I have some tips on washing or soaking models (to remove accumulated oil, dust, etc.) prior to painting them? E.g., how long should they be kept in the water? Approximately how warm should the water be? What's a good detergent to add to the water? Also, is it okay to soak models onto which (now dried, obviously) Squandron putty has been applied? Thanks, Richard >Hi all, > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > >Richard i use lukewarm water and a squirt of liquid. i leave it in for a few hours, rinse-dunk three times and air dry. works fine. > is it okay to soak models onto which (now dried, obviously) >Squandron putty has been applied? Squander putty is waterproof and should stay stuck to the model especially if you mixed it 50/50 with liquid glue to assist adhesion. There's a lot of different ways people wash their models, you should get plenty of advice. When you're talking plastic, I soak in a container of hot water and cheap (the few additives the better) dishwashing fluid. Then use an old toothbrush to work up a nice foam, hot water rinse and you can air dry or use your airbrush at high pressure and no paint to dry it. Water shouldn't be much hotter than your hands can stand it. If you're washing resin you'll need Westley s Bleche white and that toothbrush. hth The Keeper (of too much crap) > Hi all, > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > Also, is it okay to soak models onto which (now dried, obviously) > Squandron putty has been applied? O.K. I use a cotton ball soaked in Poly-S's "Plasti-Prep". It's a pink liquid, probably basically alcohol, that removes skin oils and mold release and such. If you want to use a solution of warm water and dish washing liquid, be sure you don't use one of the dishwashing products that contains (and leaves behind) a coating of hand cream. It may make Milady's hands softer but it raises hell with paint adhesion. Bill Shuey >Can I have some tips on washing or soaking models (to remove >accumulated oil, dust, etc.) prior to painting them? I just wipe mine down with a clean rag dampened with mineral spirits.  SignatureAl Superczynski, MFE, IPMS/USA #3795, continuous since 1968 My "From" address is munged - click "Reply To" to respond via email. Check out my want lists and eBay listings at "Al's Place": http://www.network54.com/realm/modeleral/ "Build what YOU like, the way YOU want to, and the critics will flame you every time." > >Can I have some tips on washing or soaking models (to remove > >accumulated oil, dust, etc.) prior to painting them? > > I just wipe mine down with a clean rag dampened with mineral > spirits. I've found methylated spirits can soften some softer styrenes. I generally go for the soap and water in the sink job followed with a water rinse. Then blow it dry with the compressor. I did recently have a problem with a Klingon Bird of Prey and shitty enamel paint though - so it does appear that maybe something like a weakened metho, water, and detergent might've been worth a try. We have an ammonia based cleaning product called "Nifti" which even cleaned castor oil off my RC planes without dulling the paint - maybe one day I'll test try that as well. I've also found that it depends what your painting with... gloss enamels being the most affected by a uncleaned greasy fingerprint but a flat undercoat - no sweat. Mitch > Hi all, > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > Richard I rarely soak a model that's about to be painted. I can't recall the last time I did. I use a soft toothbrush, Ivory soap and tepid water. Gently swish the brush back and forth on the model after rubbing the brush across the soap bar. Rinse and let dry. That's all I do. Bill Banaszak, MFE Load up the ole Airbrush with a dose of that Plastic Prep and blast away. When you run out of liquid, just keep blasting. The air will evaporate the left over Plastic Prep quickly and you can go right to paint. Norm >Load up the ole Airbrush with a dose of that Plastic Prep and blast away. >When you run out of >liquid, just keep blasting. The air will evaporate the left over Plastic >Prep quickly and you can >go right to paint. Are you a CO2 salesman? ;) SignatureAl Superczynski, MFE, IPMS/USA #3795, continuous since 1968 My "From" address is munged - click "Reply To" to respond via email. Check out my want lists and eBay listings at "Al's Place": http://www.network54.com/realm/modeleral/ "Build what YOU like, the way YOU want to, and the critics will flame you every time." Thanks for the replies, everyone. This is a cool newsgroup. >Thanks for the replies, everyone. This is a cool newsgroup.> We try. There is a real loser or two in the woodwork, but the rest are a real good bunch, always willing to help, even with what you might think is a stupid question. Speaking of which, there is a FAQ board you can go to, which may help get your question answered much more quickly--I only wish I could find it, sorry. Hey guys, somebody help me out here? When once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return. --Leonardo Da Vinci On 03 Jun 2004 13:46:21 GMT, timetraveler658@aol.com.mil.nav (Disco -- FlyNavy) wrote: >...there is a FAQ board you can go to, which may >help get your question answered much more quickly--I only wish I could find it, >sorry. Hey guys, somebody help me out here? http://www.ninfinger.org/~sven/models/rms_tips/rmsfaq.1.html SignatureAl Superczynski, MFE, IPMS/USA #3795, continuous since 1968 My "From" address is munged - click "Reply To" to respond via email. Check out my want lists and eBay listings at "Al's Place": http://www.network54.com/realm/modeleral/ "Build what YOU like, the way YOU want to, and the critics will flame you every time." > On 03 Jun 2004 13:46:21 GMT, timetraveler658@aol.com.mil.nav (Disco > -- FlyNavy) wrote: [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > http://www.ninfinger.org/~sven/models/rms_tips/rmsfaq.1.html Just what the doctor ordered.. Mitch |
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