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Solvaset won't wet decals

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Crumb - 12 Jun 2004 22:49 GMT
Hi;

Just bought a bottle of solvaset. I applied it onto a freshly applied
and dried decal but the solvaset just beads and will not wet the
decal.

Any help?

Thanks!
EGMcCann - 12 Jun 2004 23:17 GMT
What brand of decals?

If you're expecting it to "soak in," it doesn't appear to - but it will end
up softening the decal, and allowing it (give it 24hr) to get into panel
lines and such.

> Hi;
>
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Thanks!
Keeper - 13 Jun 2004 00:00 GMT
If the decal is already dry I believe it's a little late. You might try
re-wetting the decal and then apply Solvaset. You could also brush on a little
white vinegar, give it a while to soak in and then apply the Solvaset.
hth

The Keeper (of too much crap)
Bill Banaszak - 13 Jun 2004 03:18 GMT
> Hi;
>
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Thanks!

If it's a Monogram decal forget it.  They are impervious at best and can
curl up at worst.  They're the only brand I've run into like that.
It's why I don't bother with them if I don't have to.

Bill Banaszak, MFE
Milton Bell - 13 Jun 2004 03:51 GMT
> If it's a Monogram decal forget it.  They are impervious at best and can
> curl up at worst.  They're the only brand I've run into like that.
> It's why I don't bother with them if I don't have to.
>
> Bill Banaszak, MFE

And it's a shame too. Some of the decals from the older kits‹F-105, F-100,
‹were well printed, in good register, and sharp as a tack! They just didn't
respond to any of my setting solutions at the time. When I just had to use
one, I used white glue to hold it down.

One thing I've noticed however is the red ejection seat triangles on my Thud
have faded to a pale pink! Red is not a stable color in many cases.

MB
William H. Shuey - 13 Jun 2004 05:47 GMT
> > Hi;
> >
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>
> Bill Banaszak, MFE

    Now William! You are old enough to know very well that the first rule
of building a Monogram kit is "Throw away the decals".      :-)

                            Bill Shuey
e - 13 Jun 2004 05:58 GMT
>> > Hi;
>> >
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
>
>                                                        Bill Shuey
you guys are harsh. i floated the do 335 declas in solvaset
for a week and they snuggled right down.
Keeper - 13 Jun 2004 06:51 GMT
>>> If it's a Monogram decal forget it.  They are impervious at best and can
>>> curl up at worst.  They're the only brand I've run into like that.
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>you guys are harsh. i floated the do 335 declas in solvaset
>for a week and they snuggled right down.

Ok, here's the trick to Revellogram decals. For over a decade now they've been
printing them on Decafix. This doesn't respond to set or sol but is designed to
be pressure sensitive. Wet them, apply them, and then press them down with a
hot damp cloth (tap water hot.)
hth

The Keeper (of too much crap)
Rufus - 13 Jun 2004 22:07 GMT
>>>>If it's a Monogram decal forget it.  They are impervious at best and can
>>>>curl up at worst.  They're the only brand I've run into like that.
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>
> The Keeper (of too much crap)

...and then stand back and watch the carrier yellow.  Especially if you
apply them over a white surface.

I gave them one last chance on my PBY at the behest of Aeromaster on
Monogram's behalf.  Never again - straight into the trash they go.

Signature

     - Rufus

The Old Timer - 14 Jun 2004 01:54 GMT
>>>>>If it's a Monogram decal forget it. They are impervious at best and
>>>>> can curl up at worst. They're the only brand I've run into like that.
>>>>>It's why I don't bother with them if I don't have to.

>>>>  Now William! You are old enough to know very well that the first
>>>> rule of building a Monogram kit is "Throw away the decals".  :-)

>>> you guys are harsh. i floated the do 335 declas in solvaset
>>> for a week and they snuggled right down.

>> Ok, here's the trick to Revellogram decals. For over a decade now
>> they've been printing them on Decafix. This doesn't respond to set
>> or sol but is designed to be pressure sensitive. Wet them, apply
>> them, and then press them down with a hot damp cloth (tap water
>> hot.)

> ...and then stand back and watch the carrier yellow.  Especially if you
> apply them over a white surface.
> I gave them one last chance on my PBY at the behest of Aeromaster
> on Monogram's behalf.  Never again - straight into the trash they go.

Here's one for you. This afternoon, I ~tried~ to apply decals to the Aurora
Orbital Space Fighter. These decals had no copyright data on the back and no
matter how long I left it in th ewater, they wouldn't lift off the paper
backing. After five minutes it all dissolved, and all the while they looked
like somebody printed the original decals and put the print into the kit.
Except for the tail markings, I was able to replace all of them easily.

-- John
The history of things that didn't happen has never been written.
.          -                                   -                              
     - Henry Kissinger
Rufus - 14 Jun 2004 02:13 GMT
>>>>>>If it's a Monogram decal forget it. They are impervious at best and
>>>>>>can curl up at worst. They're the only brand I've run into like that.
[quoted text clipped - 28 lines]
> .          -                                   -                              
>       - Henry Kissinger

Yup - that's one I forgot.  Particularly with Monogram decals.  I always
hav to use a stiff, flat artist's brush to scrub remnants of the paper
from tha back of the decal once it comes "free of the paper".  Then I
get to watch them laugh at my Solvaset.

Then and only then did I get to later watch them yellow...

Signature

     - Rufus

Keeper - 14 Jun 2004 07:17 GMT
>Aurora
>Orbital Space Fighter. These decals had no copyright data on the back and no
>matter how long I left it in th ewater, they wouldn't lift off the paper
>backing.

>After five minutes it all dissolved, and all the while they looked
>like somebody printed the original decals and put the print into the kit.
>Except for the tail markings, I was able to replace all of them easily.
>
> -- John

It wouldn't surpise me that some old kit collector would color copy the decals
just to make it look like it had decals. Did you buy it at a swap meet or off
line?
Cheers,

The Keeper (of too much crap)
Bill Banaszak - 14 Jun 2004 04:19 GMT
It's been a lot longer than a decade.  I remember a column in a defunct
aviation magazine where the reviewer had to resort to Elmer's to get his
decals to stay on the brand new Monogram 1/72 Skyraider kit.  I
remembered that tip (and the author's name right up until I started
writing this answer) and used it on the occasions it was needed.
Like Bill Shuey said above, "Throw away the decals".

Bill Banaszak, MFE
The Old Timer - 13 Jun 2004 13:26 GMT
>> If it's a Monogram decal forget it.  They are impervious at best and can
>> curl up at worst.  They're the only brand I've run into like that.
>> It's why I don't bother with them if I don't have to.

>    Now William! You are old enough to know very well that the first rule
>of building a Monogram kit is "Throw away the decals".      :-)

Not so!! I just finished my 1:32 Grumman F3F-1 and its decals worked really
nice with MicroSet and MicroSol. I was mostly worried about the fuselage stripe
and the wing chevron but they set in very well with no major problems other
than their size.

-- John
The history of things that didn't happen has never been written.
.          -                                   -                              
     - Henry Kissinger
Rob van Riel - 14 Jun 2004 10:34 GMT
>     Now William! You are old enough to know very well that the first rule
> of building a Monogram kit is "Throw away the decals".      :-)

Is this a recent thing? I did the antique A-5A Vigilante about a year
back, and the decals, though yellowed with age, responded well to
micro set/sol. Fairly thick decals which took a lot of sol before they
got the idea to be sure, but it did work as advertised.

Rob
Keeper - 14 Jun 2004 15:28 GMT
>Is this a recent thing? I did the antique A-5A Vigilante about a year
>back, and the decals, though yellowed with age, responded well to
>micro set/sol.

I couldn't put a date on it but I think they went to Decafix in the late
eighties/early nineties. What's the vintage of your Monogram A-5A?
tia,

The Keeper (of too much crap)
Rob van Riel - 16 Jun 2004 11:28 GMT
> I couldn't put a date on it but I think they went to Decafix in the late
> eighties/early nineties. What's the vintage of your Monogram A-5A?
> tia,

Beats me, but certainly not recent. Mine came in the light blue
boxing, which I don't remember ever seeing in shops (the kit came from
eBay). My guess would be early seventies.

Rob
Rob van Riel - 16 Jun 2004 11:28 GMT
> I couldn't put a date on it but I think they went to Decafix in the late
> eighties/early nineties. What's the vintage of your Monogram A-5A?
> tia,

Beats me, but certainly not recent. Mine came in the light blue
boxing, which I don't remember ever seeing in shops (the kit came from
eBay). My guess would be early seventies.

Rob
Keeper - 17 Jun 2004 02:30 GMT
>Mine came in the light blue
>boxing,

Yeah, the blue bordered box was late sixties/early seventies followed by the
photobox. Decals of that era, if they haven't been moistured corrupted should
respond to fluids as you experienced.
Cheers,

The Keeper (of too much crap)
Bill Banaszak - 17 Jun 2004 02:46 GMT
> > I couldn't put a date on it but I think they went to Decafix in the late
> > eighties/early nineties. What's the vintage of your Monogram A-5A?
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Rob

Closer to the mid-'60s, IIRC.  That was the era my example hailed from.

Bill Banaszak, MFE
Rob van Riel - 17 Jun 2004 13:37 GMT
> Closer to the mid-'60s, IIRC.  That was the era my example hailed from.

Same as mine then. I checked the box yesterday. If my memory doesn't
let me down again, copyright date was 1967.

Rob
 
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