Model Forum / General / Models / March 2005

The large pieces can be made to look realistic, but it involves work.
Obviously, it is easier on vehicles with narrow-chord tracks.
It would be very hard to make such a "one piece" from a T-34
look realistic.

ICM kits are pretty nice; but they don't "build themselves"
like Tamiya kits.  If you like to "build models" as opposed to
simply "assemble kits", then you will enjoy ICM models.

The tracks that come with the EE KV-1S kit CAN be used with it, but it
takes a bit of work.

Before installing, get the suspension set up and ensure you have a good
fit with the idlers as they are fragile. These tracks are a TIGHT fit
so they have to be able to take the strain. Leave the drivers off (this
is how you will get the tracks on the model later.)

First off, wash them thoroughly to get rid of mold release. Fasten the
four sections into two track sets. Paint the tracks (I use a dark
reddish brown or burnt sienna as a base color, as they tend to oxidize
to a dark color and not a bright rust.) Wash with black and drybrush
with silver.

Orient the tracks and put them on one side. Gently put the driver into
the notches in the track and pull back until you can slide it on its
mounting peg. (It's not going anywhere, but you can use plastic cement
if you left the peg unpainted.)
Make sure all of the teeth are in the groove between all the wheel
sets.

Then mount the other track in the same fashion.

To get "sag" with these tracks, you need some .030 or .040 piano wire
(e.g. stiff steel rod) and a pin vise. Press down with the pin vise and
drill a hole in the side of the hull about centered between the return
rollers and even with the tops of the return rollers. Repeat on the
other side.

Cut a length of wire (you may need a hacksaw with this stuff) about the
distance from the center of the track on one side to the center of the
track on the other side. With the turret off, stick one end through the
first hole, forcing the track down under the rod. Slide it through, and
using a finger move it until you can align it with the hole on the
other side. Slide the rod through and over the top of the other track.

Repeat for the other gap between the return rollers.

Paint the rod with the reddish color and a bit of drybrushing with
silver and it blends in, hiding it from general site.

Works for me.

Cookie Sewell