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Model Forum / General / Models / July 2005Dumb Modeling Question# 132
this involves acrylic paint & arisol spray,is this made as a product?,I really dont want get out the airbrush & buy a bottle of primer if i dont have to. To prime or not to prime, that is the question. Why primer a model, good question. You would primer so the base color paint will have something to grab on to - so to speak. In the case of acrylics or with any other paint, if you do not primer, you run the risk of having the color of the plastic bleed thru on sharp edges because the base color paint did not build up as it would on a flat surface. So there it is. Ray Austin, Texas === > this involves acrylic paint & arisol spray,is this made as a > product?,I really dont want get out the airbrush & buy a bottle of > primer if i dont have to. > this involves acrylic paint & arisol spray,is this made as a > product?,I really dont want get out the airbrush & buy a bottle of > primer if i dont have to. Is your question, does acrylic spray exist? Yes. Primer. It is always a good idea; as it gives the succeeding color coats something to grab ahold of. It provides "tooth", which is far better than the bare plastic/resin/metal. If your model is something that will not suffer a lot of handling (being permanently affixed to a base, for example); and it is not going to require many succeeding color coats (and the needed masking); then you can probably get away with *not* priming. But, when done carefully, priming offers so many advantages. Many people "prime" using thinned down "Mr. Surfacer". (thins with cheap old isopropyl alcohol). "Mr. Surfacer" provides an excellent "tooth", fills minor seams and imperfections, and shrinks as it dries, so that fine details stand little chance of being obliterated.  SignatureGreg Heilers Registered Linux user #328317 - SlackWare 10.1 (2.6.10) I have been painting with Acrylics, all sorts of model types,and I have never used a primer.I was always concerned about the "obliteration"of those fine details that make a model come to life when been fine detailed and dry brushed.I do also wash all the parts in warm soapy water before assembling. > I have been painting with Acrylics, all sorts of model types,and I have > never used a primer.I was always concerned about the "obliteration"of > those fine details that make a model come to life when been fine > detailed and dry brushed.I do also wash all the parts in warm soapy > water before assembling. That definitely helps...but when your have sweaty hands, and are a "fumble-fingers" such as I...such paints tend to erode away just in limited handling...lol. SignatureGreg Heilers Registered Linux user #328317 - SlackWare 10.1 (2.6.10) ..... The history of things that didn't happen has never been written. -- Henry Kissinger Thanks guys for straightening me out,I have 2 vinyl models & the directions on the one model stated stay away from enamels,I thought they meant enamel primer,it would screw up the properties of the vinyl.I was told by a hobby store i can use enamel primer,i'll just spray lightly to get the ''tooth''.On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 03:50:46 GMT, >> I have been painting with Acrylics, all sorts of model types,and I have >> never used a primer.I was always concerned about the "obliteration"of [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >"fumble-fingers" such as I...such paints tend to erode away just in >limited handling...lol. Do you know what percentage of Mr. Surfacer to Alcohol to use? Just ordered some and want to give it a shot. >> this involves acrylic paint & arisol spray,is this made as a >> product?,I really dont want get out the airbrush & buy a bottle of [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > "tooth", fills minor seams and imperfections, and shrinks as it dries, > so that fine details stand little chance of being obliterated. > Do you know what percentage of Mr. Surfacer to Alcohol to use? Just > ordered some and want to give it a shot. Probably more alcohol, ratio-wise, than you would normally use for paint... as just about every bottle of Mr Surfacer I have had, was quite a bit thicker than Gunze paint. And this thickness seems to vary quite a bit. So.....just play "Old Professor Glockenspiel" and experiment...lol. >>> this involves acrylic paint & arisol spray,is this made as a >>> product?,I really dont want get out the airbrush & buy a bottle of [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] >> Greg Heilers >> Registered Linux user #328317 - SlackWare 10.1 (2.6.10) SignatureGreg Heilers Registered Linux User #328317 - SlackWare 10.1 (2.6.10) ..... "At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child - miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied, demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless. Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats." --- P. J. O'Rourke Isopropyl is not the best thinner for Mr. S. If you aren't careful you will get some nasty looking stuff that won't prime worth a hoot. For better results, try some Mr. Color Thinner or, barring that, some lacquer thinner. And don't think Mr. S 1000 needs a lot of thinning. I would start with a third thinner and see what happens. It really depends on how old the Mr. S is to start with and how thick it has become. But it's about the best easy primer out there and is an excellent base for Alclad or other lacquer-like paints. MB > From: Greg Heilers <gNOSPAMheilers@earthNOSPAMlink.net> > Organization: EarthLink Inc. -- http://www.EarthLink.net [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > thicker than Gunze paint. And this thickness seems to vary quite a bit. > So.....just play "Old Professor Glockenspiel" and experiment...lol. |
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