Model Forum / General / Railroads / April 2004

Obviously we've had differing experiences.

Thin decal films are easier to hide, but more delicate to work with.
Thick films are more work to disguise (see my other recent post on
sanding overspray coats), but more robust to position and work with. The
worst for thin film problems were the old Herald King decals ... I swear
these sometimes had NO film at all. Just set them in the water and the
whole decal would DISSOLVE or turn to floating dust ... lettering and all.

Decals in general, Champ, Microscale, and all the others tend to be
quite variable.  This applies to both the blank film they print on
(which most do NOT make themselves), the paper (which comes with the
film), and the ink application that the decal manufacturer DOES do
themselves (or hires done). As for Microscale and Champ. I've had to
deal with both too thick and too thin films from both of them.

The thickness of both the film and the ink layers greatly affects the
final result. More ink makes a more opaque, but inevitably thicker,
decal. The ink itself can make sharp raised lines in the surface, every
bit as annoying as the edges of the decal film. The effect is that of
reverse-embossed lettering. I've had that problem with several sets of
Microscale decals, but NEVER with Champ.

The age of the decal also makes a difference. The backing film may
'yellow', or become unmanageably delicate and brittle.

Good decals have NO 'adhesive' on their undersides (except to hold the
film on the paper baking). That residual adhesive should be soaked off
the separated decal BEFORE application to the model. Some poor decals,
especially 30 or so years ago, often had a layer of adhesive that they
intended one to LEAVE in place to 'stick' the decal down. You may
imagine what a MESS that was. Even if you did manage a neat application,
in a year or two the whole thing would turn white, or just crumble and
fall off. HORRIBLE!

Personally, I use BOTH Microscale and Champ, and a few other brands as
well. I don't have any real favorites among them, by make, but I like
Champ mostly for the extensive line of pre-1960 prototype sets they
offer. That's what I model, so the modern sets from any maker are of
little interest to me.

I also work with military models, and the decals for that hobby are
equally problematic.

And dry transfers are an equally variable and troublesome 'can of worms'.

Dan Mitchell
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For a GOOD decal, that might be true. For a 'yellowed' one, the more
film you can get rid of, the better.

Still, while a tapered edge may be more desirable than a sharp one on a
'bordering' film, if the trim is made really close there is almost NO
border at all. Then there is hardly any decal film, or edge, to try to
hide. This is not easy, and not always even possible on complex decals,
but it's often desirable to see how close you can come. REALLY good
scissors, a good light, and a good magnifier are mandatory.

Also, a good application (or more) of decal setting solution will soften
the visible edge of the decal film, making it a LOT less visible

On smooth, glossy fished items, like well maintained passenger car
sides, one friend of mine oversprays with gloss finish, lets dry, then
wet SANDS the surface to bring the overcoat down to the thickness of the
decal film, then oversprays again. Sometimes it takes a couple
applications. The result is an overcoat the same thickness as the decal
film BETWEEN the decals, and one final application over everything.
There is NO visible decal film at all, not even under 10X magnification.

As you might imagine, this is tricky work. The overcoats must be JUST
the right thickness, and the sanding must be stopped at JUST the right
moment, or the decal will be damaged. Personally, I can largely hide the
decal film with a lot less effort, but I won't claim to match his final result.

There's more than one way to skin a cat.

Dan Mitchell
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