Model Forum / General / Railroads / May 2004

On 5/8/04 5:17 PM, in article B%cnc.41958$u_4.21256@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com,

As it happens, I'm right in this process. I was going to do a loop to loop
with staging at each end, but after running on the Utah, Colorado & Western
last year, I have had to rethink my plan.

I will now be building a double deck with dual helixes and a hidden staging
yard on the top deck.

All else will remain pretty much as I originally planned: 36" minimum
mainline radius, code 83, DCC, L-girder, single track.

 I'm not starting over, but it's close...

 Masonite backdrop painted with oil colors, based on the old Bob Ross
painting series, you can order the TV series from their website.

 Either 3000K or 5000K fluorescent, double tube.

 Basically 27" radius mainline at 2% or less.

 6 track staging yard under main shelf.

 I'm trying a new method of benchwork that was recently described in
MR, HD shelf uprights and brackets are being used to support the
benchwork, NO LEGS !!, 48" upright has enough room on it for layout
shelf, staging yard shelf and two storage shelf.

 Around the room with workbench in the middle, the workbench also
serves as a view block.

Buy the smaller house with the large out building
Start sooner.

Paul

 OK, I would do the following:

o - Finish the room first(did not have the money at the time)

o - Use at least 30" radius curves(HO).

o - Have more that 4 train length staging tracks.

 The rest of the layout design is still very good, and operates fine with 4 axle
GP's and 10 car trains of 40' freight cars(Milw branchline).

 After 17 years, I am thinking of  tearing down the railroad and building a new
one in the same space(same theme):

o - Room will be completely finished off.  Lighting valances will be done
    this time.  Some kink of carpeting(concrete get 'old' on the feet
    after operating for 2-3 hours.).
o - Benchwork used L girders attached to 2X2 framed gussets bolted
    to the walls(no legs - real nice).  I will add a new section(penisula)
    that sticks out 14' to provide extra mainline on two faces.  This will
    be built on a shelf/drawer base for storage.

o - Fascia - Same 1/8' masonite, but since I am now 100% DCC, the 3
    large 'panels' will be replaced by 'counter-sunk' waybill boxes, and
    cup holders.

o - Track - Code 83 with minimum 30" radius curves, and at least 8-10
    through staging tracks.

o - Staging tracks will use 'Tortoise' switch motors(twin coil are a just a
    maintenace issue).

Jim Bernier

1) prep the walls. I am using a spare bedroom in the basement.
Unfi\ortunately, the former owner finished the walls with a stipple
texture. I really should have taken the time to scrape that off the
walls and smooth out my "sky"

2) upgrade the wiring. There are only 2 outlets in the room, and they
are (of course) in exactly the wrong place.

Both are the result of being too eager to get some trains running.

Kent

Thanks for posing such an interesting question.  Building a layout must be a
lot like buikding a house... you need to do two of them to correct the
mistakes you made in the first one!

Let's make one assumption and that is that one would work in the same area,
room, basement, garage, whatever.  If you had more space available, then
these points become meaningless.  I think the whole thing boils down to
curve radius.  That seems to drive everything else.  I think I would go with
sharper curves.  While I realize that some of you would not do this, sharper
curves gives one several advantages.  You can get more track in a given
space.  Or, you can have wider aisles.  Raising the track height minimizes
the "sharpness" of the curves.

Given thess, I'd have a two or even three-track main.  This would allow me
to run several trains simultaneously in different directions without
watching them.  I'd increase switching opportunities but not have a huge
yard.  That part of the hobby doesn't interest me.

I'd use some scenic dividers to minimize the effect of trains going down
opposite sides of peninsulas.

I'm currently using trac lighting in the layout room.  It is ideal as one
can adjust the angle & direction of the fixtures to get the desired results
that they want.

I'd have even more staging tracks... perhaps in two different areas.

And I'd eliminate that one location (every layout has one) where you simply
can't get to no matter what you do.  I have a switch in a corner that is
just beyond reach from a one foot wide access area.  I have to stand on a
platform, sideways, and lean sideways to work on it.  Of course, that one is
the king of derailments!

I'll eventually use DCC but I'm not far enough along yet to do that.

dlm

I think I might have done N scale rather than HO, but don't feel that
strongly about it.

Greg