> AAR Boxcar End with Lumber Door
> Stan Rydarowicz 165 Manchester Avenue, Youngstown, Ohio 44509
> For cars ends maybe these would work. As far as just the detail parts I
> don't know.
Thanks, Bruce. I've seen the information on Stan's boxcar ends at
http://www.steamfreightcars.com, although I haven't seen this product in
person.
I am hoping that there is some manufacturer not listed in the Walthers
catalog that makes individual lumber door detail parts.
What I'm attempting to do is add a lumber door to the end of an Accurail car
with wood ends (which is at best a fair match for the prototype I'm
modeling), so I'm not sure if it is worth buying an entire steel boxcar end,
just to cut out a detail part that would at best be a close match, to use on
an $11 boxcar kit.

Signature
Mark Mathu
The Green Bay Route: http://www.greenbayroute.com/
"I started out with nothing and I still have most of it."
Mark Newton - 19 May 2004 06:26 GMT
> I am hoping that there is some manufacturer not listed in the
> Walthers catalog that makes individual lumber door detail parts.
Mark, I don't know if you received my post regarding lumber doors.
Grandt Line make a detail set for a D&RGW narrow gauge boxcar, which
includes a lumber door. It almost identical to those used on older
standard gauge single sheath cars, so it may be useful to you. It is
part #300-5001.
Mark Mathu - 03 Jun 2004 03:57 GMT
> What I'm attempting to do is add a lumber door to the end of an Accurail car
> with wood ends (which is at best a fair match for the prototype I'm
> modeling), so I'm not sure if it is worth buying an entire steel boxcar end,
> just to cut out a detail part that would at best be a close match, to use on
> an $11 boxcar kit.
Here's what I did to add a simple lumber door to the end of my
Accurail model:
http://www.greenbayroute.com/gbw6072end.jpg
I fabricated the lumber door on the "A" end from styrene 1x12, 2x8
(scale 1'-2" long) and a short piece of 0.060" angle, as shown:
http://www.greenbayroute.com/lumberdoor.gif
In hindsight I wish I had used a 4x8 instead of a 2x8 for the door.
The door would stand out as far as the end braces and be a little
more obvious.
I replaced the model's grab irons and handrails with wire
replacements, and cut the underside of the fishbelly underframe to be
straight and added a new bottom flange. The wood grain was brought
out with a wash of India ink and alcohol, and the car was weathered
with Ceramcoat acrylics applied with an airbrush. I added paper tags
to the car doors using a piece of a phone book page (as described in
the July '04 Model Railroader magazine) and finished the model with
Intermountain 33" wheels and Kadee #58 couplers.
- - - -
Mark Mathu
The Green Bay Route: http://www.greenbayroute.com/
Mark Newton - 03 Jun 2004 09:01 GMT
> Here's what I did to add a simple lumber door to the end of my
> Accurail model: http://www.greenbayroute.com/gbw6072end.jpg
A very nice looking car, Mark. And you overcame the problem with the
warped sides, obviously. Thanks for posting.
Mark.
Mark Mathu - 03 Jun 2004 09:22 GMT
> And you overcame the problem with the warped sides, obviously.
I ended up wedging a piece of pink foam insulation into the car body
(permanently) to pry the sides apart just before I inserted the floor into
the body.

Signature
Mark Mathu
The Green Bay Route: http://www.greenbayroute.com/
"I started out with nothing and I still have most of it."