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Model Forum / General / Railroads / January 2005Another question
I plan on using the styrofoam board landscaping method on my new project. Is there any substantive difference between the Owens-Corning pink board and the product from Dow that is blue? Everything I have read talks about the blue Dow board, but if the only difference is color, I can save $3 per 4'x8'x2" sheet by using the pink stuff.  Signature=========================================================== Norman Morgan <> http://www.norm-morgan.com =========================================================== I'm not real smart, but I can lift heavy things... =========================================================== Either should work fine; just don't use the "bead board" type. That's the stuff that is made up of little round blls that are fused together with heat. They tend to "crumble" off and make a real mess. One other thing... I believe the blue Dow foam has a very thin plastic covering on it. You will "probably" want to remove this. Otherwise, when you glue & paint, you will be gouing & painting on that plastic which can peel off. dlm > I plan on using the styrofoam board landscaping method on my new project. > Is there any substantive difference between the Owens-Corning pink board > and the product from Dow that is blue? Everything I have read talks about > the blue Dow board, but if the only difference is color, I can save $3 per > 4'x8'x2" sheet by using the pink stuff. Thanks. That's about what I thought, but before I bought close to $300 worth of the stuff, I figured it would be wise to ask! I'm planning a fairly good sized layout, 2 4x8 tables with a 4x4 connector to make a U. I want to run L&N equipment in honor of my grandad who worked for the L&N for over 50 years. He started with them around 1910 as a "call boy", a runner who would go fetch people who were needed from the extra board in the days before it was common for everyone to have a telephone. He finally retired after many years as a local switch engineer around 1962, while I was in high school. So I could use stuffed tagged Family Lines or, since I'm shooting for early 1950's, even NC&StL, since that was about the time they merged. I can remember clearly going with him to Nashville's Union Station on Saturday mornings to pick up his paycheck, then crossing Broadway to the NC&StL building where the official watchmaker was to get his watch regulated. Then often as not, we'd drive to the old South Nashville Yards. to have lunch with some of his buddies across the street at Hap Towns' restaurant. And I can't begin to tell you how many hours we spent in Centennial Park, admiring #576, the Alco J3-57 4-8-4 on display there. Seems like he told me about every rivet on the thing. To make things a bit easier, I'm not trying to duplicate a particular location, just some interesting terrain typical of Middle Tennessee. Signature=========================================================== Norman Morgan <> http://www.norm-morgan.com =========================================================== It works! Now, if I could only remember what I did.... =========================================================== > Either should work fine; just don't use the "bead board" type. That's > the stuff that is made up of little round blls that are fused together [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] >> only difference is color, I can save $3 per 4'x8'x2" sheet by using >> the pink stuff. I'll be watching the progress of this one ..... sounds great! Steve Aussie > Thanks. That's about what I thought, but before I bought close to $300 > worth of the stuff, I figured it would be wise to ask! I'm planning a [quoted text clipped - 38 lines] >>> only difference is color, I can save $3 per 4'x8'x2" sheet by using >>> the pink stuff. You might check some of the articles on using the stuff. I have about the same sized layout and spent about 100. I used 1 1/2 x 20" 8 foot long. Cut to contour and left hollow spots in the middle where no track was over it. Jim Stewart > Thanks. That's about what I thought, but before I bought close to $300 > worth of the stuff, I figured it would be wise to ask! I'm planning a [quoted text clipped - 38 lines] >>> only difference is color, I can save $3 per 4'x8'x2" sheet by using >>> the pink stuff. >Either should work fine; just don't use the "bead board" type. That's the >stuff that is made up of little round blls that are fused together with >heat. They tend to "crumble" off and make a real mess. I did, because it was FREE. I can vouch for that. The stuff also picks up a static charge and is a real pain to clean up. Jay website URL: members.aol.com/orphantrainlocos/index.html All the world's a stage - and everybody's a critic. >>Either should work fine; just don't use the "bead board" type. That's the >>stuff that is made up of little round blls that are fused together with >>heat. They tend to "crumble" off and make a real mess. > >I did, because it was FREE. I can vouch for that. The stuff also picks up a >static charge and is a real pain to clean up. Using the same stuff, for the same reason, but it's not the only reason. I'm stacking it in layers to get the height I need, 1 1/2" thick pieces, and my elevations aren't that high, 3 layers high, but on a base 2 layers thick. Lets me go from that base both ways, I can go down from average level a scale 15 feet, up until I get tired of stacking layers. Exposed edges will have to be covered, if anything rubs it, it'll bead off. Working it with a rotary wirebrush and the shop vac right there to pick up the fluff as soon as it comes off, it's not too messy. Thin coating of plaster on the top, and the entire top will have to be coated, keeps it from beading off. A good spray of Scenic Cement over the plaster hardens the surface enough that it won't powder when it's touched. A couple of 1 X 2 foot modules shows the "do and don't" pretty quick. It ain't the materials you use, it's how well you learn to work them. Greybeard > Working it with a rotary wirebrush and the > shop vac right there to pick up the fluff as soon as it comes off Be careful of satis charges off that shop vac. I knew a guy got knocked on his schwanz vacuuming up spilled toner with an ordinary hand vac. SignatureSteve Product of a mixed marriage: Nickel Plate father, Wabash mother; raised in Peru, Decatur and Fort Wayne. >> Working it with a rotary wirebrush and the >> shop vac right there to pick up the fluff as soon as it comes off > >Be careful of satis charges off that shop vac. I knew a guy got knocked on >his schwanz vacuuming up spilled toner with an ordinary hand vac. Keep the end of the hose against the work, maybe spray a little water in the hose, if the weather is dry. Bleeds off the static before it can build up to uncomfortable levels. It isn't so much beware of the static as it is of bleed it off before you have to beware. Greybeard >> Working it with a rotary wirebrush and the >> shop vac right there to pick up the fluff as soon as it comes off > > Be careful of satis charges off that shop vac. I knew a guy got > knocked on his schwanz vacuuming up spilled toner with an ordinary > hand vac. RE: the toner...copier and laser toner is powdered so fine, it goes right through the filter of most vacs, straight into the motor...and the suff is conductive, especially the MICR toner used to print checks. In the computer room where I work we have a vac with special bags and filters for cleaning toner from printers. BTW, if you ever get the stuff on you or your clothes, wash with COLD water, otherwise the heat will make it set. Thanks for all the tips on the foam board. I wound up buying the Owens- Corning pink stuff. $24.95 for 2"x4'x 8' sheets at Home Depot. Signature=========================================================== Norman Morgan <> nmorgan@brake.com <> http://www.brake.com =========================================================== The only way bureaucrats ever cut red tape is lengthwise. =========================================================== > I plan on using the styrofoam board landscaping method on my new project. > Is there any substantive difference between the Owens-Corning pink board > and the product from Dow that is blue? Everything I have read talks about > the blue Dow board, but if the only difference is color, I can save $3 per > 4'x8'x2" sheet by using the pink stuff. Norman, Either color is about the same and should work fine. Bruce > I plan on using the styrofoam board landscaping method on my new project. > Is there any substantive difference between the Owens-Corning pink board > and the product from Dow that is blue? Everything I have read talks about > the blue Dow board, but if the only difference is color, I can save $3 per > 4'x8'x2" sheet by using the pink stuff. As others have said, it is the same stuff so go with what you can find. One note: The pink stuff (which I use) comes in 100, 200, and 400 PSI densities, IIRC. I've used 100 and 200 -- the 200 PSI stuff is significantly stiffer than 100 (duh!) and therefore allows bigger foam-only spans where they make sense. The density is printed on the board. -dave |
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