My first brass caboose - And now I have questions...

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Stevert - 12 Jul 2005 23:44 GMT

I picked up a brass DM&IR bay window caboose this past weekend. The car
has no visible wheel wear so it's seen little or no layout time. Since
this is a sizable investment for a single car, for me anyway, I thought
I'd pose a few questions before I tear into it.

If it matters, it's an OMI 3952.1 and the label says "F/Ptd & Ltd",
which I assume is Factory Painted (which it is) and Lighted (which I
haven't checked yet). I'm also using DCC, but please, let's not discuss
right now whether or not that's a good choice...

Anyway, here's the questions:

1) It looks like it'll take Kadee #5's, but without the draft gear.
Does this mean I'll have the same problem as say an Athearn diesel with
it's live frame?

2) If it is lighted, or if I light it, can I assume that one of the
common diode bridge/voltage regulator circuits for DCC would be
appropriate?

3) Since the car is up here by the PeeCee right now I haven't checked
it with a meter, but it sure looks like all four axles are insulated on
the same side. That's easy enough to fix, but is it something commonly
seen from the factory?

4) Included in the parts bag are two of what I believe are cut levers,
and although I see the holes I believe they get threaded through, I have
no idea of what their orientation should be. Any clues?

TIA,
Stevert

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Froggy @ thepond..com - 13 Jul 2005 01:14 GMT

>1) It looks like it'll take Kadee #5's, but without the draft gear.
>Does this mean I'll have the same problem as say an Athearn diesel with
>it's live frame?

Not if you use the plastic shank Kadees, which I think are the # 9. Same as the # 5,
but non-conductive.
So that makes ~that~ a non- problem, whether the chassis is hot or not.

>2) If it is lighted, or if I light it, can I assume that one of the
>common diode bridge/voltage regulator circuits for DCC would be
>appropriate?

Put a 12/16 volt bulb inside, connect one wirre to the left rail and the other one to
the right rail, and forget about it. You don't have to do anything special to car
lights account you are using DCC. If you want to be able to turn it on/off, put a
manually operated switch on it somewhere out of sight -OR- buy a Digitrax function
only TF-4 decoder. About US$20 at better hobby shops everywhere.

If you use the decoder -AND- if your bulb draws more than 50mA, then put a 33 Ohm 1
Watt resistor in series with it to buffer the inrush current when you first turn it
on. A 33 Ohm resistor will have bands thus:

orange - orange - black - gold/silver/no-color
3 3 0
1st# 2nd# multiplier tolerance %

Froggy,

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Jon Miller - 13 Jul 2005 17:01 GMT

>can I assume that one of the

common diode bridge/voltage regulator circuits for DCC would be
appropriate?<
You can do this but it's not needed. Using DCC, when a device is
connected across the rails it is called half voltage. In other words you
will get around 6 volts +/-. If you use a bridge then you will get full
voltage or around 12 volts +/-. If you want to use a LED, instead of a
bulb, then you need a resister and another regular diode.

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Model Forum / General / Railroads / July 2005

My first brass caboose - And now I have questions...