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Model Forum / General / Railroads / October 2005



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Thanx for help on toggle switches - here's a compiled list

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Vince Guarna - 02 Oct 2005 00:54 GMT
Thanx to everyone for the great pointers to electronics supply houses. I
now have a few choices for getting switches. (I even finally learned how to
do the search on Digikey -- they have them, too.)

For anyone that's interested, here's the whole list in one place:

www.digikey.com
www.jameselectronics.com
www.allelectronics.com
www.miniatronics.com
www.mouser.com
www.action-electronics.com

I'm going to take a crack at building a control panel using an inkjet track
schematic behind a sheet of clear plexiglass. If it turns out OK, I'll post
a pic. If not, we'll pretend it never happened :-)

We'll see how hard it is to drill plexiglass. Someone mentioned the hint of
using a block of wood on top. Someone else mentioned drilling through
masking tape. All of these are to help keep the plexi from shattering.
Anyone else have a thought please do post it.

Regards,

  Vince
User - 02 Oct 2005 03:47 GMT
<snip>
> We'll see how hard it is to drill plexiglass. Someone mentioned the hint of
> using a block of wood on top. Someone else mentioned drilling through
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
>    Vince

Two methods come to mind. Fund and use a drill bit for plastic. The tip
angle is very wide -- something like 135 degrees. This keeps the chips
small and if you're drilling by hand doesn't pull the bit through the
work piece like a bit for steel will.

Another method is to drill a pilot hole any then use a sharp reamer to
slowly enlarge the hole to the proper diameter, wprking evenly foem both
sides of the workpiece.

Bob

Signature

The goal when driving is to miss the maximum number of objects.

Charles Bachman - 02 Oct 2005 04:26 GMT
There are special drill bits made especially for plexiglass.  They have a
sharp point so the drill does not wander and the flutes are cut so the
plexiglass will not shatter.
> <snip>
>> We'll see how hard it is to drill plexiglass. Someone mentioned the hint
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>
> Bob
Daniel A. Mitchell - 03 Oct 2005 14:19 GMT
> <snip>
>
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>
> Bob

I can't add much to what Bob has posted. I use both methods.

A drill for Plex needs to be 'backed off' in the same way one does for
drilling brass. The tip of the cutting edges are stoned back to produce
a near ZERO 'rake' angle, The drill then scrapes the surface instead of
digging in. This greatly reduces breakage and cracking.

Reamers are FAR less likely to crack the plastic, and leave a better,
rounder, hole than a drill. Drill undersize, and then ream out to dimension.

Acrylic plastics (including Plexiglas, a brand name) vary widely in
properties. Some are quite soft and drill well, others are quite hard
and crack with little provocation. Older stock tends to be harder than
fresh. The harder grades, expecially, are prone to stress cracking AFTER
the hole is drilled. Such cracks start as invisible microcracks, and
later spread to wreck the whole area. Oil in any form makes this
microcracking FAR worse. *NEVER* use oil for a cutting lubricant on
acryilc. If you need any lube at all, use water.

Dan Mitchell
============
Steve Caple - 03 Oct 2005 17:51 GMT
"Plastics, m'boy, plastics."

Signature

Steve

Dale Gloer - 02 Oct 2005 15:48 GMT
Drilling plexi is best done in a drill press - so you can control the
feed rate and not have the bit pull into the material faster than you
want AND clamping the plexi firmly so that the bit cannot pull the
material into the bit.  If you do both of these and feed the bit slowly
- but not too slow since you want to cut and not melt - you should have
perfect holes with no shattering.  Practice on a scrap of material to
get a feel for how fast to feed the bit.

Dale Gloer

> Thanx to everyone for the great pointers to electronics supply houses. I
> now have a few choices for getting switches. (I even finally learned how to
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
>
>    Vince
Roger Aultman - 02 Oct 2005 16:13 GMT
If youj are using a drill press with a quill lock it may help to put a
bit of drag on the feed with the lock.   Roger Auitman

http://www.nconnect.net/~raul/AA1.htm

Take a look at the new "John English - Hobbyline" Yahoo group.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/JohnEnglish-Hobbyline/

> Drilling plexi is best done in a drill press - so you can control the
> feed rate and not have the bit pull into the material faster than you
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Dale Gloer
Jason Davies - 03 Oct 2005 02:36 GMT
> Thanx to everyone for the great pointers to electronics supply houses. I
> now have a few choices for getting switches. (I even finally learned how to
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
> masking tape. All of these are to help keep the plexi from shattering.
> Anyone else have a thought please do post it.

I've had good luck using a step drill. Like this:
http://images.google.com/images?q=step+drill

> Regards,
>
>    Vince

Signature

Jason Davies
Master Gizmologist
Cream City Traction Club
http"//www.geocities.com/jason_e_davies/cct.html

Daniel A. Mitchell - 03 Oct 2005 14:23 GMT
>>Thanx to everyone for the great pointers to electronics supply houses. I
>>now have a few choices for getting switches. (I even finally learned how to
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
>>
>>   Vince

Agreed! The act somehting like a cross between a drill and reamer. Turn
them slowly (compared to a drill). They often leave a good hole in
plastic. They can also be use with a large pin vise, and turned by hand
with considerable succcess.

Dan Mitchell
============
Paul Vader - 03 Oct 2005 19:02 GMT
>We'll see how hard it is to drill plexiglass. Someone mentioned the hint of
>using a block of wood on top. Someone else mentioned drilling through
>masking tape. All of these are to help keep the plexi from shattering.
>Anyone else have a thought please do post it.

Plexiglass doesn't shatter that easily - the major problem you're going to
have is melting. Use a sharp bit, go slow, and stop to let it cool every
now and again. If the plexiglass gets too hot, you'll get ugly white
patches around the hole.

Masking tape is a good idea mostly for marking purposes - center punching
is a big no-no, and most pencil or ink marks will rub off plexiglass
quickly. I'm not sure what the point of drilling through wood is for,
though I'm sure someone will tell us exactly why I'm stupid for not knowing
that. *
Signature

* PV   something like badgers--something like lizards--and something
      like corkscrews.

Daniel A. Mitchell - 03 Oct 2005 19:35 GMT
>>We'll see how hard it is to drill plexiglass. Someone mentioned the hint of
>>using a block of wood on top. Someone else mentioned drilling through
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> though I'm sure someone will tell us exactly why I'm stupid for not knowing
> that. *
I fabricate a lot of stuff from acrylic plastic. I saw, drill, ream,
mill, turn, and tap the material frequently.

Acrylic plastic (or "Plexiglas" ... ONE "s") does indeed shatter
readily. Some examples are softer and more resilient than other samples.
Older stock is more brittle. A sudden impact, or slow continued stress,
will almost always crack it. Any existing cracks (even microcracks) in
the plastic serve as "stress risers", and make the breakage far easier.

OTHER plastics, like polycarbonate ("Lexan"), are more crack resistant,
but are softer and scratch more easily. However, even polycarbonate
cracks *VIOLENTLY* if bent QUICKLY!

The purpose of the wood OVER the plastic is to prevent the plastic from
'climbing' the drill bit. It will try to do this as it breaks through
the back side, or if it 'digs in' from too aggressive a cut (or a
wrongly sharpened drill). Either process causes a sudden shock to the
work, and can shatter the surrounding plastic. Drilling also produced
microcracks (or worse) in the surrounding plastic, making the shatter
more likely.

Keep all OIL **AWAY** from acrylic when machining it. Oil GREATLY
aggravates the stress microcracking, leading to eventual failure of the
part. If melting is a problem, use WATER to cool the plastic, and as a
lubricant.

Acrylic CAN be drilled with considerable success, but it requires either
the correct tools and techniques, or just plain luck.

Dan Mitchell
============
cat - 04 Oct 2005 00:36 GMT
On Mon, 03 Oct 2005 14:35:49 -0400, "Daniel A. Mitchell"
<danmitch@umflint.edu> purred

>I fabricate a lot of stuff from acrylic plastic. I saw, drill, ream,
>mill, turn, and tap the material frequently.

    I've used acrylic a reasonable amount and never had much
trouble drilling it once I learned to be slow and careful (and to use
a block of wood to drill through). the one thing I still have problems
with is cutting the acrylic. The usual "score and crack" often leads
to disaster and saws seem to fare even worse. Is there a good RELIABLE
way of cutting various thicknesses of sheet acrylic?  I would really
like to be able to cut a sheet without the constant fear of shattering
or edge cracking.

                                cat
Froggy @ thepond..com - 04 Oct 2005 05:34 GMT
>On Mon, 03 Oct 2005 14:35:49 -0400, "Daniel A. Mitchell"
><danmitch@umflint.edu> purred
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>
>                                cat

Figure out how to keep it cool while you cut. I have a table saw with a Kool-Mist
sprayer that I use when I cut Plex.  Use a saw depth that will just permit the blade
to break through the top. Works for me.

When drilling or tapping use peanut oil for lubrication instead of petroleum oils or
solvents.  Petroleum oils will be absorbed into the material and will cause crazing,
cracking and deterioration at a later time. Peanut oil can be washed off with mild
hand soap, and does not have any harmful reactions with the acrylic.

---Spray units & coolant:
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2236
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_focus.php?Focus=Coolant

---MSDS:
http://www.chess.cornell.edu/safety/msds/klmtfm77.htm
Froggy,
cat - 04 Oct 2005 17:59 GMT
On Tue, 04 Oct 2005 04:34:27 GMT, Froggy @ thepond..com purred

>When drilling or tapping use peanut oil for lubrication instead of petroleum oils or
>solvents.  Petroleum oils will be absorbed into the material and will cause crazing,
>cracking and deterioration at a later time. Peanut oil can be washed off with mild
>hand soap, and does not have any harmful reactions with the acrylic.

    Be VERY VERY careful when using peanut products in aerosol
form. for a goodly number of people those vapors are fatal. Peanuts
can throw someone sensitive to them into anaphylactic shock and they
will die in minutes if not properly treated. The incident with peanut
oil traces that shut down production on CSI last year made it clear
that peanuts are a potential risk one is wisest to avoid. You won't
find any of that anywhere near my shop.

                                cat
Daniel A. Mitchell - 04 Oct 2005 15:25 GMT
> On Mon, 03 Oct 2005 14:35:49 -0400, "Daniel A. Mitchell"
> <danmitch@umflint.edu> purred
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>
>                                 cat
Thin sheet can be cut by the score and crack method. About 1/8" is the
thickest I've been able to relaibly cut this way, and it does leave a
lousy edge.

Sawing is often better, expecially for 1/8" and thicker sheet. Use a
good, SHARP, thin, carbide tipped circular saw with MANY teeth (60-80)
for best results. The edges may still exhibit some cracking and
spalling, but a SHARP blade minimizes this. It is also important to hold
the plastic down tight on the saw table (any of the 'roller' hold-downs
works well for this). If the plastic bounces up and down during the cut
it will chip. Keep the saw set relatively low ... it should only stick
up through the plactic about a half inch. This results in a long curved
slicing cut rather than a vertical chopping cut ... this reduced chipping.

With any method, if edge finish or exact dimensions are important, I cut
oversized, and finish using light cuts on a woodworking 'Jointer' to
clean up the edges. I then finish by sanding. Lacking a jointer, you can
 use a SHARP hand plane to improve the edges. Hold the plane at an
angle so it takes a slicing rather than a plowing cut. You can do it all
by sanding, but it's more work.

Progress down through several grades of the black Si-Carbide sanding
sheets, starting with about 100 grit, and finishing with 600 grit. Place
the sandpaper grit-up on a flat surface (a saw table works well), hold
the plastic vertically, and rub the plastic (mostly) lengthwise against
the abrasive. It can take a while if the edge chipping is deep.

If a clear edge is desired, it can be polished with solvent, fire, or
yet finer grades of abrasive.

Dan Mitchell
============
Paul Vader - 04 Oct 2005 16:52 GMT
>with is cutting the acrylic. The usual "score and crack" often leads
>to disaster and saws seem to fare even worse. Is there a good RELIABLE

I've had good luck using a dremel or a scroll saw with a fine blade. I have
to agree about the snapping thing - unless you score it about 50 times, it
never works, and even then the result isn't very nice. *
Signature

* PV   something like badgers--something like lizards--and something
      like corkscrews.

Paul Vader - 04 Oct 2005 16:50 GMT
>Acrylic plastic (or "Plexiglas" ... ONE "s") does indeed shatter
>readily. Some examples are softer and more resilient than other samples.

I have to admit, that I've only used sheets of the stuff, the same
thickness that's often used for replacing window glass. I've made melting
marks, but I've never shattered it when drilling holes. For the most part,
it's been pretty forgiving.

>The purpose of the wood OVER the plastic is to prevent the plastic from
>'climbing' the drill bit. It will try to do this as it breaks through

Aha! That makes perfect sense. I usually clamp down the piece with wood
below, go slow, and use a bit with the least agressive cutting angle I can
find. I would be concerned with getting the hole in the right place if I
was drilling through wood. It would also be harder to see whether the
plastic is melting.

>Keep all OIL **AWAY** from acrylic when machining it. Oil GREATLY
>aggravates the stress microcracking, leading to eventual failure of the
>part. If melting is a problem, use WATER to cool the plastic, and as a
>lubricant.

Interesting! Why does oil do that? It gets hotter than water without
turning to vapor? *
Signature

* PV   something like badgers--something like lizards--and something
      like corkscrews.

Daniel A. Mitchell - 04 Oct 2005 21:41 GMT
>>Acrylic plastic (or "Plexiglas" ... ONE "s") does indeed shatter
>>readily. Some examples are softer and more resilient than other samples.

<snip>

>>Keep all OIL **AWAY** from acrylic when machining it. Oil GREATLY
>>aggravates the stress microcracking, leading to eventual failure of the
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> Interesting! Why does oil do that? It gets hotter than water without
> turning to vapor? *

I think this is NOT well understood. I've heard it has something to do
with an effective 'surface tension' in the plastic, and several other
theories. But it DOES happen! I've not heard that the oil CAUSES the
cracks (they are inevitable, anyway), just makes them *MUCH* worse,
especially over time.

All cast acrylic plastic (and most other things too) has internal
strains. Anything that releases these strains causes warping or
cracking. Machining operations (including drilling) release such
strains, as well as make new ones. The tiny microfractures that result
just keep spreading, much like a crack in glass. Oil gets into these
cracks and increases the rate of propagation.

And I've seen it happen, *BIG* time. The worst I've encountered are
tapped holes that were cut using oil. The whole area around the hole
just disintegrates over an area several times larger than the hole.
Another of the joys caused by engineering students ... :-((

Dan Mitchell
============
Froggy @ thepond..com - 04 Oct 2005 22:12 GMT
>And I've seen it happen, *BIG* time. The worst I've encountered are
>tapped holes that were cut using oil. The whole area around the hole
>just disintegrates over an area several times larger than the hole.
>Another of the joys caused by engineering students ... :-((

Which is why I experimented with vegetable oils over twenty years ago and found that
the phenomena is not applicable to peanut oil which can be cleaned up with hot water
and soap.  Petroleum and other solvent type lubricants attack the acrylic and turn it
to powder. There are several vegetable oils that do not do this, peanut oil being the
one with which I have the most experience.  If one has a problem with peanuts, he
will have to do his own research and find something else that works. Try Canola oil
made from rape seed.  It's poisonous to eat, so maybe you can use it in the shop.
Froggy,
wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu - 05 Oct 2005 14:10 GMT
Froggy wrote:

[ ... ]

Try Canola oil
> made from rape seed.  It's poisonous to eat, so maybe you can use it in the shop.

Is that the same canola oil I get at the grocery store for cooking?  Are
you thinking of castor oil?  

--  
Bill Kaiser
wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu

There are three ways to do a job: good, cheap, and quick.
You can have any two.
A good, cheap job won't be quick.
A good, quick job won't be cheap.
A cheap, quick job won't be good.
Froggy @ thepond..com - 05 Oct 2005 17:06 GMT
>Froggy wrote:
>
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>Is that the same canola oil I get at the grocery store for cooking?  Are
>you thinking of castor oil?  

The exact same oil you get at the market for cooking.  Canola oil is made from
poisonous rape seed oil.  Eat it if you want to, but I won't. Rape seed oil is used
predominantly to make non-petroleum industrial lubricants.  Its use as a food-product
cooking oil is recent. The Canadians say it is fine to eat, but I don't believe them.
There is no need to use a poisonous substance to cook your food when there are plenty
of them that are not.

Castor oil is made from the beans of the castor plant which is also high in ricin,
the same toxin found in rape.  I have used castor oil, but it is too "sticky" and
does not clean up well. It does, however, work very well as a lubricant for racing
engines.
Froggy,
Frank Rosenbaum - 05 Oct 2005 23:01 GMT
Froggy, would you believe a displaced New Yorker living in Michigan? I use
Canola oil for cooking with no ill effects from the oil. Our food choices on
the other hand . . . .

>>Froggy wrote:
>>
[quoted text clipped - 27 lines]
> engines.
> Froggy,
Froggy @ thepond..com - 06 Oct 2005 02:51 GMT
>Froggy, would you believe a displaced New Yorker living in Michigan? I use
>Canola oil for cooking with no ill effects from the oil. Our food choices on
>the other hand . . . .

The effects are not immediate, they are cumulative and long term. It's a little like
cancer. Many times, by the time you notice it, it's too late. The erucic acid in rape
seed causes heart lesions, and the glucosinolates cause thyroid enlargement.
The Western Canada Oil Seed Crushers' Association, which originally trade-marked the
name "Canola", and the Canola Council of Canada based in Winnepeg, have made a
significant effort to spin the bad publicity about canola oil to a more favorable
light. They claim that canola oil is OK to use.  I don't see any need to use a
product made from a poisonous source when there are equally good products available
that do not run any risks whatever.  I am not allergic to peanuts or cotton so I use
peanut oil and cotton seed oil, but for cooking, I use extra virgin olive oil about
99.99% of the time.  I have virtually quit frying anything that requires any
additional oil, unless I can use the olive oil.
You should try some first-class olive oil and black pepper on some first-class fresh,
hot French or Italian bread instead of butter.  Mmm Mmm  good!
Froggy,
cat - 06 Oct 2005 12:22 GMT
On Thu, 06 Oct 2005 01:51:21 GMT, Froggy @ thepond..com purred

>I don't see any need to use a
>product made from a poisonous source when there are equally good products available
>that do not run any risks whatever.

    Do you eat tapioca pudding? Tapioca is one of the most
poisonous plants going but properly prepared it is quite safe. the
same goes for fugu. Taken at the wrong time or badly prepared and you
are dead but deaths from that are insanely rare now that the risks are
known. caffeine is quite lethal in the proper dosage. Almost anything
has risks, some more than others. Admittedly I would rather use olive
oil for most things simply due to taste but when the cooking is high
temperature you have few choices and canola is the least risky. that
famous rumour you have been referring to was linked by several
newspapers to the Association of Peanut Growers, who have a decided
vested interest in what oil is used for cooking.
    As for not trusting the genetic differences consider that the
difference between the rapeseed and the canola base is more radical
then the difference between cats and dogs and I have never heard of a
cat having pups.
    Since nutrition and foods is basically a "voodoo science"
there are constant false and conflicting claims made for almost
everything. since there is no real regulation and even less research
in this area you need to view all "scary" claims with a very jaundiced
eye and trust their research only if they show their methodology,
which almost none ever will since there is NO research to show, just a
claim by some producer or manufacturer's organization or some phony
claiming the wonders of their great diet or food or product or
whatever.

                                cat
Mark Mathu - 07 Oct 2005 08:28 GMT
> Since nutrition and foods is basically a "voodoo science" ...

Why do you say that?
cat - 07 Oct 2005 10:26 GMT
On Fri, 07 Oct 2005 07:28:46 GMT, "Mark Mathu" <mark@mathu.com> purred

>> Since nutrition and foods is basically a "voodoo science" ...
>
>Why do you say that?

    Both the National Science Foundation and American Medical
Association agree, there has been so little solid scientific research
on the subject it is at a ;point similar to medicine and physics in
the Dark Ages. the field is filled with cranks, crackpots, faddists,
crooks, and the misguided and informed that the very rare times
genuine research is attempted the results are promptly twisted to fit
some individual agenda. there needs to be some serious unbiased  basic
research done and that costs money. Who is going to put up the $$$ for
honest studies when the result might show their product is unhealthy?
That is why so little real science is being done there, no money
without strings.

                                cat
Frank Rosenbaum - 06 Oct 2005 12:40 GMT
> On Wed, 5 Oct 2005 18:01:42 -0400, "Frank Rosenbaum"
> <farosenbaum1@charter.net>
> wrote:

You should try some first-class olive oil and black pepper on some
first-class fresh,
> hot French or Italian bread instead of butter.  Mmm Mmm  good!

Munch munch munch, you know, even keyboards tast goo with o liveoil. (G)

> Froggy,
kt0t - 06 Oct 2005 21:36 GMT
> You should try some first-class olive oil and black pepper on some
> first-class fresh,
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
>> Froggy,

I really enjoy olive oil & parmesan cheese with a dash of salt on my hot
bread. )))

Bob
Froggy @ thepond..com - 07 Oct 2005 00:27 GMT
>I really enjoy olive oil & parmesan cheese with a dash of salt on my hot
>bread. )))
>
>Bob

AMEN!
Froggy,
Norman Morgan - 06 Oct 2005 15:25 GMT
> The effects are not immediate, they are cumulative and long
> term. It's a little like cancer. Many times, by the time you
> notice it, it's too late.

Reminds me of what happened in my back yard about 20 years ago.  
One hot night we heard a BOOM! and the lights went out.  It seems
the utility pole transformer behind our house had exploded.  
Drenched 1/4 of my yard, including the only place sunny enough to
plant tomatos, in transformer oil --- PCB contaminated transformer
oil.

The next day a claims adjuster from the power company is spinning
me tales about how the danger of PCBs are exaggerated...about how
the lines crews used to cook their fried bologna sandwiches with
that oil.  I'm sure there was a lot of bologna involved, as two
hours later, six guys in full hazmat suits, including respirators,
are in my yard digging up the top 3 inches of the affected area and
sealing the dirt in drums for disposal.  Bologna, indeed!

I've been afraid to plant tomatos back there ever since.

Signature

===========================================================
Norman Morgan <> http://www.norm-morgan.com
===========================================================
Sometimes I wake up grumpy.  Other times I let her sleep.
===========================================================

Steve Caple - 07 Oct 2005 00:06 GMT
> The next day a claims adjuster from the power company is spinning
> me tales about how the danger of PCBs are exaggerated.

I bet he handled himself pretty well for a guy with flippers for arms, eh?

Signature

Steve

Froggy @ thepond..com - 07 Oct 2005 01:13 GMT
>The next day a claims adjuster from the power company is spinning
>me tales about how the danger of PCBs are exaggerated...

That is precisely why -unfortunately- in these sorts of instances, everyone is a liar
until proved otherwise.

>I've been afraid to plant tomatos back there ever since.

Yup.
Track down the information on Jan Schlichtmann, et. al. VS:

UniFirst, an industrial dry-cleaning operation that used solvents,

W.R. Grace, which operated a factory that manufactured food-processing equipment, and
which used solvents to clean machinery and to thin paint.

Beatrice Foods, which owned the J. J. Riley tannery and an adjacent undeveloped
property that had been used as a chemical dumping ground.

Woburn, Massachusetts:
In 1979, it was discovered that wells supplying East Woburn's drinking water were
contaminated with industrial solvents. The contamination was localized to huge
reservoirs of polluted ground water. Investigators also determined that the
neighborhoods, which received their water from those wells, suffered from an
abnormally high number of leukemia cases.
In 1982, a group of families living in the affected area sought out Schlichtmann  to
help them seek damages against the corporations listed above They maintained that
these corporations were responsible for contaminating the community's drinking water.
All of the families had members who had contracted leukemia or other forms of cancer.
Several children had died. And thus, Woburn became a national symbol of environmental
tragedy.

Froggy,
wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu - 07 Oct 2005 13:50 GMT
Froggy wrote:

> You should try some first-class olive oil and black pepper on some first-class fresh,
> hot French or Italian bread instead of butter.  Mmm Mmm  good!
> Froggy,

I put olive oil on popcorn, along with garlic powder and basil.

--  
Bill Kaiser
wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu

There are three ways to do a job: good, cheap, and quick.
You can have any two.
A good, cheap job won't be quick.
A good, quick job won't be cheap.
A cheap, quick job won't be good.
David P Harris - 05 Oct 2005 23:17 GMT
>>Froggy wrote:
>>
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
> engines.
> Froggy,

Froggy et al.-

This appears to be another urban myth -- see:
http://www.snopes.com/toxins/canola.htm or
http://www.washingtonpost.com/ac2/wp-dyn?pagename=article&node=&contentId=A31594
-2001Feb6&notFound=true


David
Froggy @ thepond..com - 06 Oct 2005 03:18 GMT
>Froggy et al.-
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
>David

The risk is in using a poisonous seed to make the oil.  There is no need to use rape
seed, whether "genetically altered" or not to make oil for human or other animal
consumption. Making it "safe" does not allow for errors in production of the plant or
the oil.  Better to use a product that does not have to be "engineered" such that it
will not kill you.  I read all the pros and cons, claims and counter claims, etc.
The "Antis" win this time.  Snopes loses this round.  I am not going to test every
bottle of canola oil that I buy and I am not going to trust the producers to police
themselves to ensure that rigid safety standards are continuously met, and that no
rape seed of the "wrong kind" gets into the pipeline, etc., etc., etc.  There is
simply no rational reason to take any risk whatever in this matter. Use another kind
of oil that has no chance whatever of killing you. All problems solved.  The only
losers are the folks who are trying to sell you potentially poisonous cooking oil so
that they can make tons of money.
They're your heart, liver, thyroid, colon, and brain. Do whatever you want with them.
We start life with no smarts and a whole lot of luck.  The object is to get smart
before your luck runs out.
Froggy,
Edward A. Oates - 06 Oct 2005 06:38 GMT
>> Froggy et al.-
>>
[quoted text clipped - 36 lines]
> before your luck runs out.
> Froggy,

Froggy, you are the victim of pseudoscience masquerading as consumer
protection. The canola scare is 100% nonsense. You can buy whatever products
you want, but your belief in the silly canola story should not be the
reason.

Signature

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3D@electricrailroad.com - 08 Oct 2005 00:41 GMT
>Froggy, you are the victim of pseudoscience masquerading as consumer
>protection. The canola scare is 100% nonsense. You can buy whatever products
>you want, but your belief in the silly canola story should not be the
>reason.

Ed,  Froggy has a good point, and you are at least partly wrong.  I'm
_very_ familiar with canola oil, and the oil growers and processors
have pulled the wool over a lot of eyes.  When canola (CANadian oil or
OLA) was first introduced successfully in the americas after the name
change from rapeseed and the accidental mixing of cheap food grade
rapeseed and industrial oil which caused a number of deaths in Spain,
it was touted as the answer to all the problems of other vegetable
oils.  In point of fact, it was simply easier and more profitable to
produce in Canada and sales of it needed a market push.

Remember when the Center for Whining in the Public Interest got on the
backs of movie theatres for using coconut oil?  A lot of theatre
owners immediately switched over to canola because of perceived public
pressure (how's that for forcing a major market and a stock play?)
Within a few weeks, the complaints from customers started rolling in.
I was there. Up front and in person.  I was on the receiving end of
those complaints.

Real unsaturated canola (the supposedly healthy stuff) goes rancid
extremely rapidly, and smells like dead rotting fish.  Rancid oils are
essentially free radicals, and are not in any way healthy, nor do they
improve the image of popcorn or any other food but dead rotting fish.

Popcorn sales plummeted.  Theatres began to smell like the Fulton Fish
Market.  The theatre industry complained, tried air-popped popcorn in
desperation (can you say popped cardboard?), and largely switched out
of canola oil to peanut oil, corn oil, blended oils, or back to
coconut oil.  Eventually, the processors got wise to the rotton fish
smell, and resolved the problem.  They are _very_ quiet about how that
was accomplished, but the only way that seems possible is that they
"cracked" it, or started adding hydrogen to partially saturate the
oil, thus removing the fraction that could go rancid - and - any the
un-rancid unsaturated oil, along with any benefits it held.

During that period of rancid oil, I developed an active food
sensitivity (technically, it isn't called an allergy, but is very
similar) to the stuff, to the point that eating a few kernels of
popcorn cooked in it would send me worshipping the throne, and just
walking into a theatre popping corn with it would make me nausious.  

Snopes merely touches on this subject with the following caveat:

"Cooking at high temperatures with unrefined rapeseed oil now appears
to be related to an increased risk of lung cancer because at high
temperatures cooking oil gives off chemicals capable of causing
mutations in cells. Unrefined rapeseed oil is particularly notable for
this, but other oils also have this association. Those intent upon
doing large amounts of wok cooking with any sort of cooking oil should
therefore lower their frying temperature from the 240 C to 280 C
called for in Chinese cooking to 180 C. "

Popcorn, of necessity, is cooked at a high temperature, and the hot
rancid oil vapors are especially foul.  Reducing frying temperatures
is another "screed" by the Center for Whining in the Public Interest
that is picked up as fact without examination.  Saturated oils, like
coconut oil, can be heated to high temperaures safely.

Thankfully, my reaction to canola isn't as strong after years of
avoidance and the change in formulation, but there is no way that
anyone will ever convince me that canola is a legitimate GRAS product.

Call it an urban myth or whatever, but I wish the stuff had never been
bred/engineered.  The only way that I even knew what was being said
about canola was that my own experience with it was so violently
negative and I was trying to find out why it was making me sick.

Rapeseed was a good oil for a specific purpose - lubrication -
although some people are apparently less bothered by erucic acid and
rancidity than others.  If you can find it, Grapeseed oil IS a good
oil for consumption, but it is in short supply and has limited market
penetration.  Even coconut oil is now being recognized as a "good" oil
by those people who don't buy into the "cholesterol is a disease and
not a marker of other problems" myth.  Remember, when in doubt -
follow the money.  It leads to remarkable enlightenment on how the
markets work.

Again, I had no contact with canola oil before my personal experience,
and my personal experiences are independent and pre-date any internet
rumors.  As a matter of fact, the WWW wasn't even fully developed at
that point.

BTW, Snopes seems to claim that since rapeseed is a member of the
mustard family, including cabbage, watercress, mustard, and turnips,
that it is benign.  That is simply sloppy science and reporting.  The
mango is in the same family as poison ivy.  Would they then claim that
poison ivy is innocuous?  My wife can't eat anything with horseradish,
which is in the same family as rapeseed, yet she seems to tolerate
rapeseed.  People have individual genetic makeups, and outside of
blood and tissue typing in transplants, the medical profession and
news media largely ignore these differences.

Back on topic, cutting plexi with a bandsaw is a lot more successful
for me than trying to use a jigsaw.  The constant motion in a single
direction seems to reduce chipping and eliminate splits and cracks.
YMMV.
Edward A. Oates - 08 Oct 2005 01:11 GMT
>> Froggy, you are the victim of pseudoscience masquerading as consumer
>> protection. The canola scare is 100% nonsense. You can buy whatever products
[quoted text clipped - 96 lines]
> direction seems to reduce chipping and eliminate splits and cracks.
> YMMV.

The Froggy complaint was the Canola was Poison: it is not, categorically so.

ALL oils which burn and vaporize at high temperatures produce carcinogens.
Peanut and coconut oil have very high burn points and so when used at high
temperatures, they produce fewer of those volatile substances; for example,
olive oil produces lots of smoke if heated too much, and that vapor is not
particularly healthy; in fact, olive oil (and butter, for that matter) catch
fire pretty easily if overheated. Most of us are allergic to high heats
which are consuming our kitchens.

All that said, I don't particularly like canola oil; but since my daughter
is mildly allergic to peanuts and soy, when  eating out, we make sure that
the kitchen can use olive oil (first choise) or canola oil (second choice)
for cooking. They all seem to have olive oil for salad dressings.

Almost all other commercial cooking oils (corn, etc.) use soy oil as an
extender; soy is a fine oil unless you are allergic to it.

Signature

Ed Oates
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3D@electricrailroad.com - 08 Oct 2005 02:26 GMT
>The Froggy complaint was the Canola was Poison: it is not, categorically so.
>
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>Almost all other commercial cooking oils (corn, etc.) use soy oil as an
>extender; soy is a fine oil unless you are allergic to it.

To my body, there is a very fine line between canola as poison and
canola as a food sensitivity, which is why I said "you are at least
partly wrong" but I agree in general up to the last part.  When an oil
is labeled as corn oil, the ingredient is corn oil.  Vegetable oil is
what consists of mixed oils including corn, soy, etc..

In their haste to label coconut oil bad, the center for yada yada.
neglected to consider the very real reasons why saturated oils are
better in some situations.  That is not good science, nor is it in the
public interest.

I understand your reticence in endorsing peanut oil. It is a pity that
there isn't a universally tolerated monosaturated or unsaturated oil.
However, that lack further verifies the point that we all are
different and need to be sceptical of generalizations and people
speaking not from personal experience but from psuedo-scientific bias.
Paul Vader - 10 Oct 2005 17:21 GMT
>The Froggy complaint was the Canola was Poison: it is not, categorically so.

Right.

> ALL oils which burn and vaporize at high temperatures produce carcinogens.
>Peanut and coconut oil have very high burn points and so when used at high
>temperatures, they produce fewer of those volatile substances; for example,

The term in cooking is 'smoke point'. Canola has one of the lowest smoke
points of any cooking oil. Here's a link:
      http://www.cookingforengineers.com/article.php?id=50

So, it's not an oil that a sane person would use in a high-temp application
such as corn popping. Thank goodness that brief fad is over. *
Signature

* PV   something like badgers--something like lizards--and something
      like corkscrews.

Froggy @ thepond..com - 10 Oct 2005 19:34 GMT
>The Froggy complaint was the Canola was Poison: it is not, categorically so.

Is too. :-P
I'm not going to eat it, you do as you please.

Froggy,
Edward A. Oates - 10 Oct 2005 19:55 GMT
>> The Froggy complaint was the Canola was Poison: it is not, categorically so.
>
> Is too. :-P
> I'm not going to eat it, you do as you please.
>
> Froggy,
Is not  neener neener neener.

I never said you have to eat it (drink it, bath in it, whatever); as I said
in my first post, we all get to do what we want. My comments are directed at
pseudoscience and urban legends which become "fact" so some due to
repetition.

News reporters do this a lot: person P tells reporter A something; reporter
A tell sA1; A1 tells person P2; person P2 tells reporter A. Then A says,
"according to multiple sources, we've confirmed that Ed Oates is an idiot."

The statement may be true, but not based on multiple sources. In the case of
canola oil, the report got it wrong (incorrect science drawing incorrect
conclusions), but it has spread around the net enough that people see it in
multiple places and lend greater credence to it than it deserves.

Signature

Ed Oates
http://homepage.mac.com/edoates
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Froggy @ thepond..com - 11 Oct 2005 01:42 GMT
>>> The Froggy complaint was the Canola was Poison: it is not, categorically so.
>>
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>pseudoscience and urban legends which become "fact" so some due to
>repetition.

Yeah, I am pretty hard on bullshit myself.  I understand what you are saying

>News reporters do this a lot: person P tells reporter A something; reporter
>A tell sA1; A1 tells person P2; person P2 tells reporter A. Then A says,
>"according to multiple sources, we've confirmed that Ed Oates is an idiot."

And I have confirmed for myself that a majority of news reporters are idiots.
Just watch and listen to them. It doesn't take long.

>The statement may be true, but not based on multiple sources. In the case of
>canola oil, the report got it wrong (incorrect science drawing incorrect
>conclusions), but it has spread around the net enough that people see it in
>multiple places and lend greater credence to it than it deserves.

If there wasn't a shread of truth to it I would phoo-phoo it like I have done with so
many other totally bullshit "reports" and "facts", but this one, while maybe not
exactly as "reported" is correct on many points. enough so that, on the whole, the
Canola cartel is suspect as is their oil.  It isn't necessary for me to use the
product as there are plenty of alternatives. So I just don't buy it.  I don't need or
want a poisonous product that has been "genetically engineered" to make it safe.
There are plenty of naturally occurring, perfectly safe  products available for me to
use.
My next rant is going to be on Olestra. A powerful purgative disguised as a food
product "fat substitute".

Froggy,
Steve Caple - 11 Oct 2005 03:25 GMT
On Tue, 11 Oct 2005 00:42:59 GMT, Froggy  wrote:

> And I have confirmed for myself that a majority of news reporters are idiots.
> Just watch and listen to them.

Not just reporters; anyone who believed THIS is equally on a mental plane
with a box of rocks:

"My daughter and her girls were telling jokes. Stephanie hit her mom's arm
with the back of a butter knife in a gesture, "Oh mom" not hard enough to
hurt. My daughters arm split open like it was rotten. She called me to ask
what could have caused it. I said, "I'll bet anything that you are using
Canola oil". Sure enough, there was a big gallon jug in the pantry."

Pretty cheesey (the arm and the propaganda)!

Signature

Steve

3D@electricrailroad.com - 11 Oct 2005 04:02 GMT
>On Tue, 11 Oct 2005 00:42:59 GMT, Froggy  wrote:
>
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>
>Pretty cheesey (the arm and the propaganda)!

Pretty funny, too.  Marketers get away with product hype most of the
time.  The initial glowing reports on canola were over-the-top in the
other direction.  Stupid stuff like the quoted legend lends a balance
to the product wars.

FWIW, canola wasn't "engineered" per se.  It was bred to produce less
euricic acid.  Call it Darwinian selection or intelligent design, with
oil producers acting as gods.
Peter W. - 11 Oct 2005 06:15 GMT
So Froggy, you don't like the "oily bowel discharge", eh?
It' s good for you - keeps you sphincter clean and well lubed!
:-D

Peteski
Paul Vader - 07 Oct 2005 17:36 GMT
>The risk is in using a poisonous seed to make the oil.  There is no need
>to use rape seed, whether "genetically altered" or not to make oil for
>human or other animal consumption.

This is an entirely false urban legend:
http://www.snopes.com/toxins/canola.htm. Rapeseed oil is not poisonous,
period.

I have to say one thing though - canola oil tastes like a.s. *
Signature

* PV   something like badgers--something like lizards--and something
      like corkscrews.

Mark Mathu - 07 Oct 2005 08:26 GMT
> Try Canola oil made from rape seed.  It's poisonous to eat, so maybe
> you can use it in the shop.
> Froggy,

I keep a supply of it next to the tank of oxygen I use for airbrushing!
Froggy @ thepond..com - 07 Oct 2005 14:26 GMT
>> Try Canola oil made from rape seed.  It's poisonous to eat, so maybe
>> you can use it in the shop.
>> Froggy,
>
>I keep a supply of it next to the tank of oxygen I use for airbrushing!

LOL!  I sure do miss Big John.

Froggy,
Steve Caple - 04 Oct 2005 23:15 GMT
> All cast acrylic plastic (and most other things too) has internal
> strains. Anything that releases these strains causes warping or
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> just disintegrates over an area several times larger than the hole.
> Another of the joys caused by engineering students ... :-((

Could this be a chemical interaction with the petroleum products?

Signature

Steve

Les Pickstock - 04 Oct 2005 23:41 GMT
>> All cast acrylic plastic (and most other things too) has internal
>> strains. Anything that releases these strains causes warping or
>> cracking.

Acrylic can be annealed to help relieve internal stress. A couple of hours
in an oven can help.  Most manufacturers can give detailed info on machining
practices.
Another option may be to use a polycarbonate such as Lexan
Daniel A. Mitchell - 05 Oct 2005 14:17 GMT
>>All cast acrylic plastic (and most other things too) has internal
>>strains. Anything that releases these strains causes warping or
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
> Could this be a chemical interaction with the petroleum products?

In some cases that might be true. It would depend on the oil and plastic
involved. I've read several comments, studies, or 'papers' on this
subject, and there's little agreement. Whether the oil CAUSES the cracks
seems undecided. That it WORSENS existing cracks seems certain.

Dan Mitchell
============
Froggy @ thepond..com - 04 Oct 2005 22:02 GMT
>>Keep all OIL **AWAY** from acrylic when machining it. Oil GREATLY
>>aggravates the stress microcracking, leading to eventual failure of the
>>part. If melting is a problem, use WATER to cool the plastic, and as a
>>lubricant.

Water has zero lubricity. That's what the KoolMist is for
Peanut oil works great without injuring the acrylic when you are drilling. Acrylic
should always be drilled at slow speed.  Peanut oil also works very well as a tapping
lubricant.
Froggy,
Daniel A. Mitchell - 05 Oct 2005 14:14 GMT
>>>Keep all OIL **AWAY** from acrylic when machining it. Oil GREATLY
>>>aggravates the stress microcracking, leading to eventual failure of the
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> lubricant.
> Froggy,
Hi Froggy:

I've not tried the peanut oil, so I won't comment on that.

I disagree that water has "zero lubricity" ... certainly it's not in the
same league as most oils, but it can substantially reduce friction. It
can even be used as a lubricant in bearings, in various ways. If a
rubber sleeve or pad is inserted in the bearing, water serves well as a
lunricant. Indeed, such bearings were used in some boat propeller
shafts. When cutting plastic, it serves mainly as a coolant, preventing
the plastic from melting. It also serves as a barrier film to prevent
the soft plastic from sticking to the cutting tool, and does reduce
friction.

Friction is a complex issue, and usually comes down to some form of
surface welding on a microscopic scale. Most ANY film between the
surfaces reduces this adhesion, and reduces friction.

Dan Mitchell
============
wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu - 04 Oct 2005 14:06 GMT
Paul Vader <pv+usenet@pobox.com> wrote:

[ ... ]

> Masking tape is a good idea mostly for marking purposes - center punching
> is a big no-no,

I used to center punch plexiglass, then I heard you couldn't center punch
it.  I kept on center punching it, and still do when I need to drill a
hole.  What ever the problem with center punching is, I seem to have
missed it.

Most of the stuff I've used comes with a sheet of paper stuck to each
side.  Mark on the paper, cut, drill, etc., then take the paper off when
everything else is finished.

--  
Bill Kaiser
wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu

There are three ways to do a job: good, cheap, and quick.
You can have any two.
A good, cheap job won't be quick.
A good, quick job won't be cheap.
A cheap, quick job won't be good.
Paul Vader - 04 Oct 2005 16:55 GMT
>I used to center punch plexiglass, then I heard you couldn't center punch
>it.  I kept on center punching it, and still do when I need to drill a
>hole.  What ever the problem with center punching is, I seem to have
>missed it.

You have a more gentle hand with the punch than I do I guess. Generally, it
will crack or star the surface. If you're expanding the hole that might not
be a big problem.

>Most of the stuff I've used comes with a sheet of paper stuck to each
>side.  Mark on the paper, cut, drill, etc., then take the paper off when
>everything else is finished.

The paper is good for avoiding scratches too. Window plexiglass will
scratch if you look at it funny. *
Signature

* PV   something like badgers--something like lizards--and something
      like corkscrews.

'Captain' Kirk DeHaan - 12 Oct 2005 17:04 GMT
Vince Guarna said the following on 10/1/2005 4:54 PM:
> Thanx to everyone for the great pointers to electronics supply houses. I
> now have a few choices for getting switches. (I even finally learned how to
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
>
>    Vince

There are special bits for drilling plexiglass.  They have a much more
"pointy" end that doesn't take such a big bite out of the plastic.
Drill slowly.  Low pressure and slow speed.  Also, if you're careful you
can use a propane torch to smooth the drill holes and the edges.
Experiment a bit with some scrap.  Heating the edge and moving all the
time you will se it turn clear and smooth.  Takes all sharp edges off
without sanding and smooths scratches.  Tapping holes for screws is the
same as drilling.  Slow is the key to preventing breakage.

Kirk
TOM - 30 Oct 2005 18:48 GMT
> Vince Guarna said the following on 10/1/2005 4:54 PM:
>
[quoted text clipped - 34 lines]
>
> Kirk

When I worked in a machine shop, I used alcohol when working Plexiglas.
It helped to float the chips out of the way, especially when tapping...
Signature

<><><> TOM <><><>
-----------------

Bill - 31 Oct 2005 06:54 GMT
<><><> TOM <><><>
--------------------------------------------------
Is that you, Tom? Glad to see that the old timers are returning. Welcome
back!

Bill
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