Thanx for help on toggle switches - here's a compiled list
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Vince Guarna - 02 Oct 2005 00:54 GMT Thanx to everyone for the great pointers to electronics supply houses. I now have a few choices for getting switches. (I even finally learned how to do the search on Digikey -- they have them, too.)
For anyone that's interested, here's the whole list in one place:
www.digikey.com www.jameselectronics.com www.allelectronics.com www.miniatronics.com www.mouser.com www.action-electronics.com
I'm going to take a crack at building a control panel using an inkjet track schematic behind a sheet of clear plexiglass. If it turns out OK, I'll post a pic. If not, we'll pretend it never happened :-)
We'll see how hard it is to drill plexiglass. Someone mentioned the hint of using a block of wood on top. Someone else mentioned drilling through masking tape. All of these are to help keep the plexi from shattering. Anyone else have a thought please do post it.
Regards,
Vince
User - 02 Oct 2005 03:47 GMT <snip>
> We'll see how hard it is to drill plexiglass. Someone mentioned the hint of > using a block of wood on top. Someone else mentioned drilling through [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Vince Two methods come to mind. Fund and use a drill bit for plastic. The tip angle is very wide -- something like 135 degrees. This keeps the chips small and if you're drilling by hand doesn't pull the bit through the work piece like a bit for steel will.
Another method is to drill a pilot hole any then use a sharp reamer to slowly enlarge the hole to the proper diameter, wprking evenly foem both sides of the workpiece.
Bob
 Signature The goal when driving is to miss the maximum number of objects.
Charles Bachman - 02 Oct 2005 04:26 GMT There are special drill bits made especially for plexiglass. They have a sharp point so the drill does not wander and the flutes are cut so the plexiglass will not shatter.
> <snip> >> We'll see how hard it is to drill plexiglass. Someone mentioned the hint [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > > Bob Daniel A. Mitchell - 03 Oct 2005 14:19 GMT > <snip> > [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > > Bob I can't add much to what Bob has posted. I use both methods.
A drill for Plex needs to be 'backed off' in the same way one does for drilling brass. The tip of the cutting edges are stoned back to produce a near ZERO 'rake' angle, The drill then scrapes the surface instead of digging in. This greatly reduces breakage and cracking.
Reamers are FAR less likely to crack the plastic, and leave a better, rounder, hole than a drill. Drill undersize, and then ream out to dimension.
Acrylic plastics (including Plexiglas, a brand name) vary widely in properties. Some are quite soft and drill well, others are quite hard and crack with little provocation. Older stock tends to be harder than fresh. The harder grades, expecially, are prone to stress cracking AFTER the hole is drilled. Such cracks start as invisible microcracks, and later spread to wreck the whole area. Oil in any form makes this microcracking FAR worse. *NEVER* use oil for a cutting lubricant on acryilc. If you need any lube at all, use water.
Dan Mitchell ============
Steve Caple - 03 Oct 2005 17:51 GMT "Plastics, m'boy, plastics."
 Signature Steve
Dale Gloer - 02 Oct 2005 15:48 GMT Drilling plexi is best done in a drill press - so you can control the feed rate and not have the bit pull into the material faster than you want AND clamping the plexi firmly so that the bit cannot pull the material into the bit. If you do both of these and feed the bit slowly - but not too slow since you want to cut and not melt - you should have perfect holes with no shattering. Practice on a scrap of material to get a feel for how fast to feed the bit.
Dale Gloer
> Thanx to everyone for the great pointers to electronics supply houses. I > now have a few choices for getting switches. (I even finally learned how to [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > > Vince Roger Aultman - 02 Oct 2005 16:13 GMT If youj are using a drill press with a quill lock it may help to put a bit of drag on the feed with the lock. Roger Auitman
http://www.nconnect.net/~raul/AA1.htm
Take a look at the new "John English - Hobbyline" Yahoo group. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/JohnEnglish-Hobbyline/
> Drilling plexi is best done in a drill press - so you can control the > feed rate and not have the bit pull into the material faster than you [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Dale Gloer Jason Davies - 03 Oct 2005 02:36 GMT > Thanx to everyone for the great pointers to electronics supply houses. I > now have a few choices for getting switches. (I even finally learned how to [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > masking tape. All of these are to help keep the plexi from shattering. > Anyone else have a thought please do post it. I've had good luck using a step drill. Like this: http://images.google.com/images?q=step+drill
> Regards, > > Vince
 Signature Jason Davies Master Gizmologist Cream City Traction Club http"//www.geocities.com/jason_e_davies/cct.html
Daniel A. Mitchell - 03 Oct 2005 14:23 GMT >>Thanx to everyone for the great pointers to electronics supply houses. I >>now have a few choices for getting switches. (I even finally learned how to [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] >> >> Vince Agreed! The act somehting like a cross between a drill and reamer. Turn them slowly (compared to a drill). They often leave a good hole in plastic. They can also be use with a large pin vise, and turned by hand with considerable succcess.
Dan Mitchell ============
Paul Vader - 03 Oct 2005 19:02 GMT >We'll see how hard it is to drill plexiglass. Someone mentioned the hint of >using a block of wood on top. Someone else mentioned drilling through >masking tape. All of these are to help keep the plexi from shattering. >Anyone else have a thought please do post it. Plexiglass doesn't shatter that easily - the major problem you're going to have is melting. Use a sharp bit, go slow, and stop to let it cool every now and again. If the plexiglass gets too hot, you'll get ugly white patches around the hole.
Masking tape is a good idea mostly for marking purposes - center punching is a big no-no, and most pencil or ink marks will rub off plexiglass quickly. I'm not sure what the point of drilling through wood is for, though I'm sure someone will tell us exactly why I'm stupid for not knowing that. *
 Signature * PV something like badgers--something like lizards--and something like corkscrews.
Daniel A. Mitchell - 03 Oct 2005 19:35 GMT >>We'll see how hard it is to drill plexiglass. Someone mentioned the hint of >>using a block of wood on top. Someone else mentioned drilling through [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > though I'm sure someone will tell us exactly why I'm stupid for not knowing > that. * I fabricate a lot of stuff from acrylic plastic. I saw, drill, ream, mill, turn, and tap the material frequently.
Acrylic plastic (or "Plexiglas" ... ONE "s") does indeed shatter readily. Some examples are softer and more resilient than other samples. Older stock is more brittle. A sudden impact, or slow continued stress, will almost always crack it. Any existing cracks (even microcracks) in the plastic serve as "stress risers", and make the breakage far easier.
OTHER plastics, like polycarbonate ("Lexan"), are more crack resistant, but are softer and scratch more easily. However, even polycarbonate cracks *VIOLENTLY* if bent QUICKLY!
The purpose of the wood OVER the plastic is to prevent the plastic from 'climbing' the drill bit. It will try to do this as it breaks through the back side, or if it 'digs in' from too aggressive a cut (or a wrongly sharpened drill). Either process causes a sudden shock to the work, and can shatter the surrounding plastic. Drilling also produced microcracks (or worse) in the surrounding plastic, making the shatter more likely.
Keep all OIL **AWAY** from acrylic when machining it. Oil GREATLY aggravates the stress microcracking, leading to eventual failure of the part. If melting is a problem, use WATER to cool the plastic, and as a lubricant.
Acrylic CAN be drilled with considerable success, but it requires either the correct tools and techniques, or just plain luck.
Dan Mitchell ============
cat - 04 Oct 2005 00:36 GMT On Mon, 03 Oct 2005 14:35:49 -0400, "Daniel A. Mitchell" <danmitch@umflint.edu> purred
>I fabricate a lot of stuff from acrylic plastic. I saw, drill, ream, >mill, turn, and tap the material frequently. I've used acrylic a reasonable amount and never had much trouble drilling it once I learned to be slow and careful (and to use a block of wood to drill through). the one thing I still have problems with is cutting the acrylic. The usual "score and crack" often leads to disaster and saws seem to fare even worse. Is there a good RELIABLE way of cutting various thicknesses of sheet acrylic? I would really like to be able to cut a sheet without the constant fear of shattering or edge cracking.
cat
Froggy @ thepond..com - 04 Oct 2005 05:34 GMT >On Mon, 03 Oct 2005 14:35:49 -0400, "Daniel A. Mitchell" ><danmitch@umflint.edu> purred [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > cat Figure out how to keep it cool while you cut. I have a table saw with a Kool-Mist sprayer that I use when I cut Plex. Use a saw depth that will just permit the blade to break through the top. Works for me.
When drilling or tapping use peanut oil for lubrication instead of petroleum oils or solvents. Petroleum oils will be absorbed into the material and will cause crazing, cracking and deterioration at a later time. Peanut oil can be washed off with mild hand soap, and does not have any harmful reactions with the acrylic.
---Spray units & coolant: http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2236 http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_focus.php?Focus=Coolant
---MSDS: http://www.chess.cornell.edu/safety/msds/klmtfm77.htm Froggy,
cat - 04 Oct 2005 17:59 GMT On Tue, 04 Oct 2005 04:34:27 GMT, Froggy @ thepond..com purred
>When drilling or tapping use peanut oil for lubrication instead of petroleum oils or >solvents. Petroleum oils will be absorbed into the material and will cause crazing, >cracking and deterioration at a later time. Peanut oil can be washed off with mild >hand soap, and does not have any harmful reactions with the acrylic. Be VERY VERY careful when using peanut products in aerosol form. for a goodly number of people those vapors are fatal. Peanuts can throw someone sensitive to them into anaphylactic shock and they will die in minutes if not properly treated. The incident with peanut oil traces that shut down production on CSI last year made it clear that peanuts are a potential risk one is wisest to avoid. You won't find any of that anywhere near my shop.
cat
Daniel A. Mitchell - 04 Oct 2005 15:25 GMT > On Mon, 03 Oct 2005 14:35:49 -0400, "Daniel A. Mitchell" > <danmitch@umflint.edu> purred [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > cat Thin sheet can be cut by the score and crack method. About 1/8" is the thickest I've been able to relaibly cut this way, and it does leave a lousy edge.
Sawing is often better, expecially for 1/8" and thicker sheet. Use a good, SHARP, thin, carbide tipped circular saw with MANY teeth (60-80) for best results. The edges may still exhibit some cracking and spalling, but a SHARP blade minimizes this. It is also important to hold the plastic down tight on the saw table (any of the 'roller' hold-downs works well for this). If the plastic bounces up and down during the cut it will chip. Keep the saw set relatively low ... it should only stick up through the plactic about a half inch. This results in a long curved slicing cut rather than a vertical chopping cut ... this reduced chipping.
With any method, if edge finish or exact dimensions are important, I cut oversized, and finish using light cuts on a woodworking 'Jointer' to clean up the edges. I then finish by sanding. Lacking a jointer, you can use a SHARP hand plane to improve the edges. Hold the plane at an angle so it takes a slicing rather than a plowing cut. You can do it all by sanding, but it's more work.
Progress down through several grades of the black Si-Carbide sanding sheets, starting with about 100 grit, and finishing with 600 grit. Place the sandpaper grit-up on a flat surface (a saw table works well), hold the plastic vertically, and rub the plastic (mostly) lengthwise against the abrasive. It can take a while if the edge chipping is deep.
If a clear edge is desired, it can be polished with solvent, fire, or yet finer grades of abrasive.
Dan Mitchell ============
Paul Vader - 04 Oct 2005 16:52 GMT >with is cutting the acrylic. The usual "score and crack" often leads >to disaster and saws seem to fare even worse. Is there a good RELIABLE I've had good luck using a dremel or a scroll saw with a fine blade. I have to agree about the snapping thing - unless you score it about 50 times, it never works, and even then the result isn't very nice. *
 Signature * PV something like badgers--something like lizards--and something like corkscrews.
Paul Vader - 04 Oct 2005 16:50 GMT >Acrylic plastic (or "Plexiglas" ... ONE "s") does indeed shatter >readily. Some examples are softer and more resilient than other samples. I have to admit, that I've only used sheets of the stuff, the same thickness that's often used for replacing window glass. I've made melting marks, but I've never shattered it when drilling holes. For the most part, it's been pretty forgiving.
>The purpose of the wood OVER the plastic is to prevent the plastic from >'climbing' the drill bit. It will try to do this as it breaks through Aha! That makes perfect sense. I usually clamp down the piece with wood below, go slow, and use a bit with the least agressive cutting angle I can find. I would be concerned with getting the hole in the right place if I was drilling through wood. It would also be harder to see whether the plastic is melting.
>Keep all OIL **AWAY** from acrylic when machining it. Oil GREATLY >aggravates the stress microcracking, leading to eventual failure of the >part. If melting is a problem, use WATER to cool the plastic, and as a >lubricant. Interesting! Why does oil do that? It gets hotter than water without turning to vapor? *
 Signature * PV something like badgers--something like lizards--and something like corkscrews.
Daniel A. Mitchell - 04 Oct 2005 21:41 GMT >>Acrylic plastic (or "Plexiglas" ... ONE "s") does indeed shatter >>readily. Some examples are softer and more resilient than other samples. <snip>
>>Keep all OIL **AWAY** from acrylic when machining it. Oil GREATLY >>aggravates the stress microcracking, leading to eventual failure of the [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > Interesting! Why does oil do that? It gets hotter than water without > turning to vapor? * I think this is NOT well understood. I've heard it has something to do with an effective 'surface tension' in the plastic, and several other theories. But it DOES happen! I've not heard that the oil CAUSES the cracks (they are inevitable, anyway), just makes them *MUCH* worse, especially over time.
All cast acrylic plastic (and most other things too) has internal strains. Anything that releases these strains causes warping or cracking. Machining operations (including drilling) release such strains, as well as make new ones. The tiny microfractures that result just keep spreading, much like a crack in glass. Oil gets into these cracks and increases the rate of propagation.
And I've seen it happen, *BIG* time. The worst I've encountered are tapped holes that were cut using oil. The whole area around the hole just disintegrates over an area several times larger than the hole. Another of the joys caused by engineering students ... :-((
Dan Mitchell ============
Froggy @ thepond..com - 04 Oct 2005 22:12 GMT >And I've seen it happen, *BIG* time. The worst I've encountered are >tapped holes that were cut using oil. The whole area around the hole >just disintegrates over an area several times larger than the hole. >Another of the joys caused by engineering students ... :-(( Which is why I experimented with vegetable oils over twenty years ago and found that the phenomena is not applicable to peanut oil which can be cleaned up with hot water and soap. Petroleum and other solvent type lubricants attack the acrylic and turn it to powder. There are several vegetable oils that do not do this, peanut oil being the one with which I have the most experience. If one has a problem with peanuts, he will have to do his own research and find something else that works. Try Canola oil made from rape seed. It's poisonous to eat, so maybe you can use it in the shop. Froggy,
wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu - 05 Oct 2005 14:10 GMT Froggy wrote:
[ ... ]
Try Canola oil
> made from rape seed. It's poisonous to eat, so maybe you can use it in the shop. Is that the same canola oil I get at the grocery store for cooking? Are you thinking of castor oil?
-- Bill Kaiser wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu
There are three ways to do a job: good, cheap, and quick. You can have any two. A good, cheap job won't be quick. A good, quick job won't be cheap. A cheap, quick job won't be good.
Froggy @ thepond..com - 05 Oct 2005 17:06 GMT >Froggy wrote: > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >Is that the same canola oil I get at the grocery store for cooking? Are >you thinking of castor oil? The exact same oil you get at the market for cooking. Canola oil is made from poisonous rape seed oil. Eat it if you want to, but I won't. Rape seed oil is used predominantly to make non-petroleum industrial lubricants. Its use as a food-product cooking oil is recent. The Canadians say it is fine to eat, but I don't believe them. There is no need to use a poisonous substance to cook your food when there are plenty of them that are not.
Castor oil is made from the beans of the castor plant which is also high in ricin, the same toxin found in rape. I have used castor oil, but it is too "sticky" and does not clean up well. It does, however, work very well as a lubricant for racing engines. Froggy,
Frank Rosenbaum - 05 Oct 2005 23:01 GMT Froggy, would you believe a displaced New Yorker living in Michigan? I use Canola oil for cooking with no ill effects from the oil. Our food choices on the other hand . . . .
>>Froggy wrote: >> [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > engines. > Froggy, Froggy @ thepond..com - 06 Oct 2005 02:51 GMT >Froggy, would you believe a displaced New Yorker living in Michigan? I use >Canola oil for cooking with no ill effects from the oil. Our food choices on >the other hand . . . . The effects are not immediate, they are cumulative and long term. It's a little like cancer. Many times, by the time you notice it, it's too late. The erucic acid in rape seed causes heart lesions, and the glucosinolates cause thyroid enlargement. The Western Canada Oil Seed Crushers' Association, which originally trade-marked the name "Canola", and the Canola Council of Canada based in Winnepeg, have made a significant effort to spin the bad publicity about canola oil to a more favorable light. They claim that canola oil is OK to use. I don't see any need to use a product made from a poisonous source when there are equally good products available that do not run any risks whatever. I am not allergic to peanuts or cotton so I use peanut oil and cotton seed oil, but for cooking, I use extra virgin olive oil about 99.99% of the time. I have virtually quit frying anything that requires any additional oil, unless I can use the olive oil. You should try some first-class olive oil and black pepper on some first-class fresh, hot French or Italian bread instead of butter. Mmm Mmm good! Froggy,
cat - 06 Oct 2005 12:22 GMT On Thu, 06 Oct 2005 01:51:21 GMT, Froggy @ thepond..com purred
>I don't see any need to use a >product made from a poisonous source when there are equally good products available >that do not run any risks whatever. Do you eat tapioca pudding? Tapioca is one of the most poisonous plants going but properly prepared it is quite safe. the same goes for fugu. Taken at the wrong time or badly prepared and you are dead but deaths from that are insanely rare now that the risks are known. caffeine is quite lethal in the proper dosage. Almost anything has risks, some more than others. Admittedly I would rather use olive oil for most things simply due to taste but when the cooking is high temperature you have few choices and canola is the least risky. that famous rumour you have been referring to was linked by several newspapers to the Association of Peanut Growers, who have a decided vested interest in what oil is used for cooking. As for not trusting the genetic differences consider that the difference between the rapeseed and the canola base is more radical then the difference between cats and dogs and I have never heard of a cat having pups. Since nutrition and foods is basically a "voodoo science" there are constant false and conflicting claims made for almost everything. since there is no real regulation and even less research in this area you need to view all "scary" claims with a very jaundiced eye and trust their research only if they show their methodology, which almost none ever will since there is NO research to show, just a claim by some producer or manufacturer's organization or some phony claiming the wonders of their great diet or food or product or whatever.
cat
Mark Mathu - 07 Oct 2005 08:28 GMT > Since nutrition and foods is basically a "voodoo science" ... Why do you say that?
cat - 07 Oct 2005 10:26 GMT On Fri, 07 Oct 2005 07:28:46 GMT, "Mark Mathu" <mark@mathu.com> purred
>> Since nutrition and foods is basically a "voodoo science" ... > >Why do you say that? Both the National Science Foundation and American Medical Association agree, there has been so little solid scientific research on the subject it is at a ;point similar to medicine and physics in the Dark Ages. the field is filled with cranks, crackpots, faddists, crooks, and the misguided and informed that the very rare times genuine research is attempted the results are promptly twisted to fit some individual agenda. there needs to be some serious unbiased basic research done and that costs money. Who is going to put up the $$$ for honest studies when the result might show their product is unhealthy? That is why so little real science is being done there, no money without strings.
cat
Frank Rosenbaum - 06 Oct 2005 12:40 GMT > On Wed, 5 Oct 2005 18:01:42 -0400, "Frank Rosenbaum" > <farosenbaum1@charter.net> > wrote: You should try some first-class olive oil and black pepper on some first-class fresh,
> hot French or Italian bread instead of butter. Mmm Mmm good! Munch munch munch, you know, even keyboards tast goo with o liveoil. (G)
> Froggy, kt0t - 06 Oct 2005 21:36 GMT > You should try some first-class olive oil and black pepper on some > first-class fresh, [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > >> Froggy, I really enjoy olive oil & parmesan cheese with a dash of salt on my hot bread. )))
Bob
Froggy @ thepond..com - 07 Oct 2005 00:27 GMT >I really enjoy olive oil & parmesan cheese with a dash of salt on my hot >bread. ))) > >Bob AMEN! Froggy,
Norman Morgan - 06 Oct 2005 15:25 GMT > The effects are not immediate, they are cumulative and long > term. It's a little like cancer. Many times, by the time you > notice it, it's too late. Reminds me of what happened in my back yard about 20 years ago. One hot night we heard a BOOM! and the lights went out. It seems the utility pole transformer behind our house had exploded. Drenched 1/4 of my yard, including the only place sunny enough to plant tomatos, in transformer oil --- PCB contaminated transformer oil.
The next day a claims adjuster from the power company is spinning me tales about how the danger of PCBs are exaggerated...about how the lines crews used to cook their fried bologna sandwiches with that oil. I'm sure there was a lot of bologna involved, as two hours later, six guys in full hazmat suits, including respirators, are in my yard digging up the top 3 inches of the affected area and sealing the dirt in drums for disposal. Bologna, indeed!
I've been afraid to plant tomatos back there ever since.
 Signature =========================================================== Norman Morgan <> http://www.norm-morgan.com =========================================================== Sometimes I wake up grumpy. Other times I let her sleep. ===========================================================
Steve Caple - 07 Oct 2005 00:06 GMT > The next day a claims adjuster from the power company is spinning > me tales about how the danger of PCBs are exaggerated. I bet he handled himself pretty well for a guy with flippers for arms, eh?
 Signature Steve
Froggy @ thepond..com - 07 Oct 2005 01:13 GMT >The next day a claims adjuster from the power company is spinning >me tales about how the danger of PCBs are exaggerated... That is precisely why -unfortunately- in these sorts of instances, everyone is a liar until proved otherwise.
>I've been afraid to plant tomatos back there ever since. Yup. Track down the information on Jan Schlichtmann, et. al. VS:
UniFirst, an industrial dry-cleaning operation that used solvents,
W.R. Grace, which operated a factory that manufactured food-processing equipment, and which used solvents to clean machinery and to thin paint.
Beatrice Foods, which owned the J. J. Riley tannery and an adjacent undeveloped property that had been used as a chemical dumping ground.
Woburn, Massachusetts: In 1979, it was discovered that wells supplying East Woburn's drinking water were contaminated with industrial solvents. The contamination was localized to huge reservoirs of polluted ground water. Investigators also determined that the neighborhoods, which received their water from those wells, suffered from an abnormally high number of leukemia cases. In 1982, a group of families living in the affected area sought out Schlichtmann to help them seek damages against the corporations listed above They maintained that these corporations were responsible for contaminating the community's drinking water. All of the families had members who had contracted leukemia or other forms of cancer. Several children had died. And thus, Woburn became a national symbol of environmental tragedy.
Froggy,
wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu - 07 Oct 2005 13:50 GMT Froggy wrote:
> You should try some first-class olive oil and black pepper on some first-class fresh, > hot French or Italian bread instead of butter. Mmm Mmm good! > Froggy, I put olive oil on popcorn, along with garlic powder and basil.
-- Bill Kaiser wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu
There are three ways to do a job: good, cheap, and quick. You can have any two. A good, cheap job won't be quick. A good, quick job won't be cheap. A cheap, quick job won't be good.
David P Harris - 05 Oct 2005 23:17 GMT >>Froggy wrote: >> [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > engines. > Froggy, Froggy et al.-
This appears to be another urban myth -- see: http://www.snopes.com/toxins/canola.htm or http://www.washingtonpost.com/ac2/wp-dyn?pagename=article&node=&contentId=A31594 -2001Feb6¬Found=true
David
Froggy @ thepond..com - 06 Oct 2005 03:18 GMT >Froggy et al.- > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > >David The risk is in using a poisonous seed to make the oil. There is no need to use rape seed, whether "genetically altered" or not to make oil for human or other animal consumption. Making it "safe" does not allow for errors in production of the plant or the oil. Better to use a product that does not have to be "engineered" such that it will not kill you. I read all the pros and cons, claims and counter claims, etc. The "Antis" win this time. Snopes loses this round. I am not going to test every bottle of canola oil that I buy and I am not going to trust the producers to police themselves to ensure that rigid safety standards are continuously met, and that no rape seed of the "wrong kind" gets into the pipeline, etc., etc., etc. There is simply no rational reason to take any risk whatever in this matter. Use another kind of oil that has no chance whatever of killing you. All problems solved. The only losers are the folks who are trying to sell you potentially poisonous cooking oil so that they can make tons of money. They're your heart, liver, thyroid, colon, and brain. Do whatever you want with them. We start life with no smarts and a whole lot of luck. The object is to get smart before your luck runs out. Froggy,
Edward A. Oates - 06 Oct 2005 06:38 GMT >> Froggy et al.- >> [quoted text clipped - 36 lines] > before your luck runs out. > Froggy, Froggy, you are the victim of pseudoscience masquerading as consumer protection. The canola scare is 100% nonsense. You can buy whatever products you want, but your belief in the silly canola story should not be the reason.
 Signature Ed Oates http://homepage.mac.com/edoates DCC wiring information is at http://www.wiringfordcc.com To help eliminate spam and scams, send it to FTC gov <uce@ftc.gov> (hee hee hee: Happy spam bot message)
3D@electricrailroad.com - 08 Oct 2005 00:41 GMT >Froggy, you are the victim of pseudoscience masquerading as consumer >protection. The canola scare is 100% nonsense. You can buy whatever products >you want, but your belief in the silly canola story should not be the >reason. Ed, Froggy has a good point, and you are at least partly wrong. I'm _very_ familiar with canola oil, and the oil growers and processors have pulled the wool over a lot of eyes. When canola (CANadian oil or OLA) was first introduced successfully in the americas after the name change from rapeseed and the accidental mixing of cheap food grade rapeseed and industrial oil which caused a number of deaths in Spain, it was touted as the answer to all the problems of other vegetable oils. In point of fact, it was simply easier and more profitable to produce in Canada and sales of it needed a market push.
Remember when the Center for Whining in the Public Interest got on the backs of movie theatres for using coconut oil? A lot of theatre owners immediately switched over to canola because of perceived public pressure (how's that for forcing a major market and a stock play?) Within a few weeks, the complaints from customers started rolling in. I was there. Up front and in person. I was on the receiving end of those complaints.
Real unsaturated canola (the supposedly healthy stuff) goes rancid extremely rapidly, and smells like dead rotting fish. Rancid oils are essentially free radicals, and are not in any way healthy, nor do they improve the image of popcorn or any other food but dead rotting fish.
Popcorn sales plummeted. Theatres began to smell like the Fulton Fish Market. The theatre industry complained, tried air-popped popcorn in desperation (can you say popped cardboard?), and largely switched out of canola oil to peanut oil, corn oil, blended oils, or back to coconut oil. Eventually, the processors got wise to the rotton fish smell, and resolved the problem. They are _very_ quiet about how that was accomplished, but the only way that seems possible is that they "cracked" it, or started adding hydrogen to partially saturate the oil, thus removing the fraction that could go rancid - and - any the un-rancid unsaturated oil, along with any benefits it held.
During that period of rancid oil, I developed an active food sensitivity (technically, it isn't called an allergy, but is very similar) to the stuff, to the point that eating a few kernels of popcorn cooked in it would send me worshipping the throne, and just walking into a theatre popping corn with it would make me nausious.
Snopes merely touches on this subject with the following caveat:
"Cooking at high temperatures with unrefined rapeseed oil now appears to be related to an increased risk of lung cancer because at high temperatures cooking oil gives off chemicals capable of causing mutations in cells. Unrefined rapeseed oil is particularly notable for this, but other oils also have this association. Those intent upon doing large amounts of wok cooking with any sort of cooking oil should therefore lower their frying temperature from the 240 C to 280 C called for in Chinese cooking to 180 C. "
Popcorn, of necessity, is cooked at a high temperature, and the hot rancid oil vapors are especially foul. Reducing frying temperatures is another "screed" by the Center for Whining in the Public Interest that is picked up as fact without examination. Saturated oils, like coconut oil, can be heated to high temperaures safely.
Thankfully, my reaction to canola isn't as strong after years of avoidance and the change in formulation, but there is no way that anyone will ever convince me that canola is a legitimate GRAS product.
Call it an urban myth or whatever, but I wish the stuff had never been bred/engineered. The only way that I even knew what was being said about canola was that my own experience with it was so violently negative and I was trying to find out why it was making me sick.
Rapeseed was a good oil for a specific purpose - lubrication - although some people are apparently less bothered by erucic acid and rancidity than others. If you can find it, Grapeseed oil IS a good oil for consumption, but it is in short supply and has limited market penetration. Even coconut oil is now being recognized as a "good" oil by those people who don't buy into the "cholesterol is a disease and not a marker of other problems" myth. Remember, when in doubt - follow the money. It leads to remarkable enlightenment on how the markets work.
Again, I had no contact with canola oil before my personal experience, and my personal experiences are independent and pre-date any internet rumors. As a matter of fact, the WWW wasn't even fully developed at that point.
BTW, Snopes seems to claim that since rapeseed is a member of the mustard family, including cabbage, watercress, mustard, and turnips, that it is benign. That is simply sloppy science and reporting. The mango is in the same family as poison ivy. Would they then claim that poison ivy is innocuous? My wife can't eat anything with horseradish, which is in the same family as rapeseed, yet she seems to tolerate rapeseed. People have individual genetic makeups, and outside of blood and tissue typing in transplants, the medical profession and news media largely ignore these differences.
Back on topic, cutting plexi with a bandsaw is a lot more successful for me than trying to use a jigsaw. The constant motion in a single direction seems to reduce chipping and eliminate splits and cracks. YMMV.
Edward A. Oates - 08 Oct 2005 01:11 GMT >> Froggy, you are the victim of pseudoscience masquerading as consumer >> protection. The canola scare is 100% nonsense. You can buy whatever products [quoted text clipped - 96 lines] > direction seems to reduce chipping and eliminate splits and cracks. > YMMV. The Froggy complaint was the Canola was Poison: it is not, categorically so.
ALL oils which burn and vaporize at high temperatures produce carcinogens. Peanut and coconut oil have very high burn points and so when used at high temperatures, they produce fewer of those volatile substances; for example, olive oil produces lots of smoke if heated too much, and that vapor is not particularly healthy; in fact, olive oil (and butter, for that matter) catch fire pretty easily if overheated. Most of us are allergic to high heats which are consuming our kitchens.
All that said, I don't particularly like canola oil; but since my daughter is mildly allergic to peanuts and soy, when eating out, we make sure that the kitchen can use olive oil (first choise) or canola oil (second choice) for cooking. They all seem to have olive oil for salad dressings.
Almost all other commercial cooking oils (corn, etc.) use soy oil as an extender; soy is a fine oil unless you are allergic to it.
 Signature Ed Oates http://homepage.mac.com/edoates DCC wiring information is at http://www.wiringfordcc.com To help eliminate spam and scams, send it to FTC gov <uce@ftc.gov> (hee hee hee: Happy spam bot message)
3D@electricrailroad.com - 08 Oct 2005 02:26 GMT >The Froggy complaint was the Canola was Poison: it is not, categorically so. > [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] >Almost all other commercial cooking oils (corn, etc.) use soy oil as an >extender; soy is a fine oil unless you are allergic to it. To my body, there is a very fine line between canola as poison and canola as a food sensitivity, which is why I said "you are at least partly wrong" but I agree in general up to the last part. When an oil is labeled as corn oil, the ingredient is corn oil. Vegetable oil is what consists of mixed oils including corn, soy, etc..
In their haste to label coconut oil bad, the center for yada yada. neglected to consider the very real reasons why saturated oils are better in some situations. That is not good science, nor is it in the public interest.
I understand your reticence in endorsing peanut oil. It is a pity that there isn't a universally tolerated monosaturated or unsaturated oil. However, that lack further verifies the point that we all are different and need to be sceptical of generalizations and people speaking not from personal experience but from psuedo-scientific bias.
Paul Vader - 10 Oct 2005 17:21 GMT >The Froggy complaint was the Canola was Poison: it is not, categorically so. Right.
> ALL oils which burn and vaporize at high temperatures produce carcinogens. >Peanut and coconut oil have very high burn points and so when used at high >temperatures, they produce fewer of those volatile substances; for example, The term in cooking is 'smoke point'. Canola has one of the lowest smoke points of any cooking oil. Here's a link: http://www.cookingforengineers.com/article.php?id=50
So, it's not an oil that a sane person would use in a high-temp application such as corn popping. Thank goodness that brief fad is over. *
 Signature * PV something like badgers--something like lizards--and something like corkscrews.
Froggy @ thepond..com - 10 Oct 2005 19:34 GMT >The Froggy complaint was the Canola was Poison: it is not, categorically so. Is too. :-P I'm not going to eat it, you do as you please.
Froggy,
Edward A. Oates - 10 Oct 2005 19:55 GMT >> The Froggy complaint was the Canola was Poison: it is not, categorically so. > > Is too. :-P > I'm not going to eat it, you do as you please. > > Froggy, Is not neener neener neener.
I never said you have to eat it (drink it, bath in it, whatever); as I said in my first post, we all get to do what we want. My comments are directed at pseudoscience and urban legends which become "fact" so some due to repetition.
News reporters do this a lot: person P tells reporter A something; reporter A tell sA1; A1 tells person P2; person P2 tells reporter A. Then A says, "according to multiple sources, we've confirmed that Ed Oates is an idiot."
The statement may be true, but not based on multiple sources. In the case of canola oil, the report got it wrong (incorrect science drawing incorrect conclusions), but it has spread around the net enough that people see it in multiple places and lend greater credence to it than it deserves.
 Signature Ed Oates http://homepage.mac.com/edoates DCC wiring information is at http://www.wiringfordcc.com To help eliminate spam and scams, send it to FTC gov <uce@ftc.gov> (hee hee hee: Happy spam bot message)
Froggy @ thepond..com - 11 Oct 2005 01:42 GMT >>> The Froggy complaint was the Canola was Poison: it is not, categorically so. >> [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] >pseudoscience and urban legends which become "fact" so some due to >repetition. Yeah, I am pretty hard on bullshit myself. I understand what you are saying
>News reporters do this a lot: person P tells reporter A something; reporter >A tell sA1; A1 tells person P2; person P2 tells reporter A. Then A says, >"according to multiple sources, we've confirmed that Ed Oates is an idiot." And I have confirmed for myself that a majority of news reporters are idiots. Just watch and listen to them. It doesn't take long.
>The statement may be true, but not based on multiple sources. In the case of >canola oil, the report got it wrong (incorrect science drawing incorrect >conclusions), but it has spread around the net enough that people see it in >multiple places and lend greater credence to it than it deserves. If there wasn't a shread of truth to it I would phoo-phoo it like I have done with so many other totally bullshit "reports" and "facts", but this one, while maybe not exactly as "reported" is correct on many points. enough so that, on the whole, the Canola cartel is suspect as is their oil. It isn't necessary for me to use the product as there are plenty of alternatives. So I just don't buy it. I don't need or want a poisonous product that has been "genetically engineered" to make it safe. There are plenty of naturally occurring, perfectly safe products available for me to use. My next rant is going to be on Olestra. A powerful purgative disguised as a food product "fat substitute".
Froggy,
Steve Caple - 11 Oct 2005 03:25 GMT On Tue, 11 Oct 2005 00:42:59 GMT, Froggy wrote:
> And I have confirmed for myself that a majority of news reporters are idiots. > Just watch and listen to them. Not just reporters; anyone who believed THIS is equally on a mental plane with a box of rocks:
"My daughter and her girls were telling jokes. Stephanie hit her mom's arm with the back of a butter knife in a gesture, "Oh mom" not hard enough to hurt. My daughters arm split open like it was rotten. She called me to ask what could have caused it. I said, "I'll bet anything that you are using Canola oil". Sure enough, there was a big gallon jug in the pantry."
Pretty cheesey (the arm and the propaganda)!
 Signature Steve
3D@electricrailroad.com - 11 Oct 2005 04:02 GMT >On Tue, 11 Oct 2005 00:42:59 GMT, Froggy wrote: > [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > >Pretty cheesey (the arm and the propaganda)! Pretty funny, too. Marketers get away with product hype most of the time. The initial glowing reports on canola were over-the-top in the other direction. Stupid stuff like the quoted legend lends a balance to the product wars.
FWIW, canola wasn't "engineered" per se. It was bred to produce less euricic acid. Call it Darwinian selection or intelligent design, with oil producers acting as gods.
Peter W. - 11 Oct 2005 06:15 GMT So Froggy, you don't like the "oily bowel discharge", eh? It' s good for you - keeps you sphincter clean and well lubed!
:-D Peteski
Paul Vader - 07 Oct 2005 17:36 GMT >The risk is in using a poisonous seed to make the oil. There is no need >to use rape seed, whether "genetically altered" or not to make oil for >human or other animal consumption. This is an entirely false urban legend: http://www.snopes.com/toxins/canola.htm. Rapeseed oil is not poisonous, period.
I have to say one thing though - canola oil tastes like a.s. *
 Signature * PV something like badgers--something like lizards--and something like corkscrews.
Mark Mathu - 07 Oct 2005 08:26 GMT > Try Canola oil made from rape seed. It's poisonous to eat, so maybe > you can use it in the shop. > Froggy, I keep a supply of it next to the tank of oxygen I use for airbrushing!
Froggy @ thepond..com - 07 Oct 2005 14:26 GMT >> Try Canola oil made from rape seed. It's poisonous to eat, so maybe >> you can use it in the shop. >> Froggy, > >I keep a supply of it next to the tank of oxygen I use for airbrushing! LOL! I sure do miss Big John.
Froggy,
Steve Caple - 04 Oct 2005 23:15 GMT > All cast acrylic plastic (and most other things too) has internal > strains. Anything that releases these strains causes warping or [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > just disintegrates over an area several times larger than the hole. > Another of the joys caused by engineering students ... :-(( Could this be a chemical interaction with the petroleum products?
 Signature Steve
Les Pickstock - 04 Oct 2005 23:41 GMT >> All cast acrylic plastic (and most other things too) has internal >> strains. Anything that releases these strains causes warping or >> cracking. Acrylic can be annealed to help relieve internal stress. A couple of hours in an oven can help. Most manufacturers can give detailed info on machining practices. Another option may be to use a polycarbonate such as Lexan
Daniel A. Mitchell - 05 Oct 2005 14:17 GMT >>All cast acrylic plastic (and most other things too) has internal >>strains. Anything that releases these strains causes warping or [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > Could this be a chemical interaction with the petroleum products? In some cases that might be true. It would depend on the oil and plastic involved. I've read several comments, studies, or 'papers' on this subject, and there's little agreement. Whether the oil CAUSES the cracks seems undecided. That it WORSENS existing cracks seems certain.
Dan Mitchell ============
Froggy @ thepond..com - 04 Oct 2005 22:02 GMT >>Keep all OIL **AWAY** from acrylic when machining it. Oil GREATLY >>aggravates the stress microcracking, leading to eventual failure of the >>part. If melting is a problem, use WATER to cool the plastic, and as a >>lubricant. Water has zero lubricity. That's what the KoolMist is for Peanut oil works great without injuring the acrylic when you are drilling. Acrylic should always be drilled at slow speed. Peanut oil also works very well as a tapping lubricant. Froggy,
Daniel A. Mitchell - 05 Oct 2005 14:14 GMT >>>Keep all OIL **AWAY** from acrylic when machining it. Oil GREATLY >>>aggravates the stress microcracking, leading to eventual failure of the [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > lubricant. > Froggy, Hi Froggy:
I've not tried the peanut oil, so I won't comment on that.
I disagree that water has "zero lubricity" ... certainly it's not in the same league as most oils, but it can substantially reduce friction. It can even be used as a lubricant in bearings, in various ways. If a rubber sleeve or pad is inserted in the bearing, water serves well as a lunricant. Indeed, such bearings were used in some boat propeller shafts. When cutting plastic, it serves mainly as a coolant, preventing the plastic from melting. It also serves as a barrier film to prevent the soft plastic from sticking to the cutting tool, and does reduce friction.
Friction is a complex issue, and usually comes down to some form of surface welding on a microscopic scale. Most ANY film between the surfaces reduces this adhesion, and reduces friction.
Dan Mitchell ============
wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu - 04 Oct 2005 14:06 GMT Paul Vader <pv+usenet@pobox.com> wrote:
[ ... ]
> Masking tape is a good idea mostly for marking purposes - center punching > is a big no-no, I used to center punch plexiglass, then I heard you couldn't center punch it. I kept on center punching it, and still do when I need to drill a hole. What ever the problem with center punching is, I seem to have missed it.
Most of the stuff I've used comes with a sheet of paper stuck to each side. Mark on the paper, cut, drill, etc., then take the paper off when everything else is finished.
-- Bill Kaiser wkaiser@mtholyoke.edu
There are three ways to do a job: good, cheap, and quick. You can have any two. A good, cheap job won't be quick. A good, quick job won't be cheap. A cheap, quick job won't be good.
Paul Vader - 04 Oct 2005 16:55 GMT >I used to center punch plexiglass, then I heard you couldn't center punch >it. I kept on center punching it, and still do when I need to drill a >hole. What ever the problem with center punching is, I seem to have >missed it. You have a more gentle hand with the punch than I do I guess. Generally, it will crack or star the surface. If you're expanding the hole that might not be a big problem.
>Most of the stuff I've used comes with a sheet of paper stuck to each >side. Mark on the paper, cut, drill, etc., then take the paper off when >everything else is finished. The paper is good for avoiding scratches too. Window plexiglass will scratch if you look at it funny. *
 Signature * PV something like badgers--something like lizards--and something like corkscrews.
'Captain' Kirk DeHaan - 12 Oct 2005 17:04 GMT Vince Guarna said the following on 10/1/2005 4:54 PM:
> Thanx to everyone for the great pointers to electronics supply houses. I > now have a few choices for getting switches. (I even finally learned how to [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > > Vince There are special bits for drilling plexiglass. They have a much more "pointy" end that doesn't take such a big bite out of the plastic. Drill slowly. Low pressure and slow speed. Also, if you're careful you can use a propane torch to smooth the drill holes and the edges. Experiment a bit with some scrap. Heating the edge and moving all the time you will se it turn clear and smooth. Takes all sharp edges off without sanding and smooths scratches. Tapping holes for screws is the same as drilling. Slow is the key to preventing breakage.
Kirk
TOM - 30 Oct 2005 18:48 GMT > Vince Guarna said the following on 10/1/2005 4:54 PM: > [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] > > Kirk When I worked in a machine shop, I used alcohol when working Plexiglas. It helped to float the chips out of the way, especially when tapping...
 Signature <><><> TOM <><><> -----------------
Bill - 31 Oct 2005 06:54 GMT <><><> TOM <><><> -------------------------------------------------- Is that you, Tom? Glad to see that the old timers are returning. Welcome back!
Bill Bill's Railroad Empire N Scale Model Railroad: http://www.billsrailroad.net Brief History of N Scale: http://www.billsrailroad.net/history/n-scale Model Railroad Bookstore: http://www.billsrailroad.net/bookstore Resources--Links to 1,100 sites: http://www.billsrailroad.net/bills-favorite-links Bill's Halloween Page: http://www.billsrailroad.net/halloween
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