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Searching for the perfect casting resin

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Norm Dresner - 24 Apr 2006 15:19 GMT
Let me preface this by saying that I'm trying to cast things that are
probably too small/thin to do reliably in resin with home equipment.
However ...  some of the parts are pieces of stripwood that represent
portions of HO scale 2x4 lumber.  The original is ~.024" thick and ~.045
wide and the mold -- done with Micromark's One-to-One 4 hour RTV looks
pretty good to my eye with a rectangular cross-section and sharp corners.

I've tried two products that I can get locally
   1.  From the local craft store I get Castin'craft Clear Liquid Plastic
Casting Resin
   2.  From the local hobby shop I've gotten Alumilite Super Plastic (white
if it makes any difference)

I've been careful measuring and mixing equal quantities of the two parts of
each and my results are:
   1.  Castin'craft shrinks below the top of the mold so that the parts are
only about half of their original thickness and hence unusable because
they're floppy
   2.  Alumilite doesn't shrink much but the parts are too soft to use
because they lack rigidly, though the slug left in the mixing cup seems hard
enough.

SO ...  I'd like something that doesn't shrink and is strong enough to
create thin castings that can support their own weight.

Recommendations welcome.

TIA
   Norm
Newyorkcentralfan@bigfoot.com - 24 Apr 2006 19:46 GMT
Hvae you tried adding more resin after the shrinkage to fill the void?

Eric
David Nebenzahl - 24 Apr 2006 20:48 GMT
Newyorkcentralfan@bigfoot.com spake thus:

> Hvae you tried adding more resin after the shrinkage to fill the void?

I don't think you can do that after the part is cast. Think about it.

Signature

Pierre, mon ami. Jetez encore un Scientologiste
dans le baquet d'acide.

- from a posting in alt.religion.scientology titled
"France recommends dissolving Scientologists"

Norm Dresner - 25 Apr 2006 14:19 GMT
| Hvae you tried adding more resin after the shrinkage to fill the void?
|
| Eric

Actually that's not as far-fetched as it sounds since this is a clear
plastic resin which allows you to embed objects by doing exactly that.

What I have tried is to overfill the mold, leaving a thin layer of liquid
resin on the surface.  I haven't demolded it yet, but either that surface
layer evaporated or it really shrank because there are pieces in the mold
that are still not full.  I have to conclude that this product isn't
suitable for castings this thin.

   Norm
Dave D - 25 Apr 2006 04:23 GMT
Go to www.smooth-on.com .

Look at the liquid Plastic products, I've used the smooth cast 305 with
great success and noticed no shrinkage.
Also when I didn't mix enough cast for the molds, after the hardening stage
I just made another batch and poured
it into the mold over what was already in there.

Dave
> Let me preface this by saying that I'm trying to cast things that are
> probably too small/thin to do reliably in resin with home equipment.
[quoted text clipped - 29 lines]
> TIA
>    Norm
Peter W. - 25 Apr 2006 08:44 GMT
If you didn't measure the resin proportions very exactly, it can result
in a pour which is softer than it is supposed to be.

There are several casting related groups on Yahoo Group - you might get
some good advice there.

Also, I recommend that you post your question at:
http://www.alumilite.com/cgi-bin/ikonboard.cgi
They are very helpful there!

Peteski
Norm Dresner - 25 Apr 2006 14:17 GMT
| If you didn't measure the resin proportions very exactly, it can result
| in a pour which is softer than it is supposed to be.
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
|
| Peteski

I was using two identical disposable pipettes -- one for each of the two
components -- and they were filled to the same level to within a small
fraction of an inch -- by eye probably only a few hundreds of an inch
difference which was easy to see since the liquid level was just above the
bottom of the bulb.     I don't think that was the problem here.

HOWEVER ---  each pipette full is approximately 1/8 oz and two possibilities
remain:
   1.  While they were filled equally, they might have not emptied equally
because of the differences in viscosity of the two components
   2.  The actual casting uses only a minute amount of even the 1/4 oz that
I prepared and it's possible that incomplete mixing might have left some of
the resin with different proportions.  Since it's a 5-minute from
liquid-to-solid resin, you don't have much time to do the mixing before you
start to loose it.

   Norm
Peter W. - 26 Apr 2006 06:42 GMT
> I was using two identical disposable pipettes -- one for each of the two
> components -- and they were filled to the same level to within a small
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>
>     Norm

Proper proportion is critical especially if the final quantity is
small. I tried using pipettes or straws but because the time is limited
and the viscosity of each part of the resin is different, even if you
measured the correct amount, different amounts will be left stuck to
each pipette's wall.

I have used a Smooth-On brand of clear resin and I too notice that thin
cross-secions are somewhat flexible.

If you want a stiffer part, try using Alumilite White or Regular (tan).
They are stiffer (if mixed properly).

Also, small cross section pours benefit from heat curing.  I pour my
parts and then I place them in a food dehydrator (around 100 deg. F).
That speeds up the cure and makes the cast parts stiffer.

Peteski
Norm Dresner - 26 Apr 2006 14:21 GMT
| If you want a stiffer part, try using Alumilite White or Regular (tan).
| They are stiffer (if mixed properly).
|
| Also, small cross section pours benefit from heat curing.  I pour my
| parts and then I place them in a food dehydrator (around 100 deg. F).
| That speeds up the cure and makes the cast parts stiffer.

If you read my OP, you'll see that one of the products I was having problems
with was Alumilite White.

What I found was that a little extra thickness made a significant
difference.  By overpouring a tad -- winding up with a .008" layer of flash
over the whole mold -- I made what looks like perfect castings.  And for
Alumilite, it seems to make its own heat.  If you've ever felt the slug left
in the cup about 5-10 minutes after mixing, you'll understand what I mean.

   Norm
Bill - 26 Apr 2006 11:01 GMT
>| If you didn't measure the resin proportions very exactly, it can result
>| in a pour which is softer than it is supposed to be.
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
>
>    Norm
Just a thought. Many casting resins and other casting materials mix by
weight.......some mix by volume , so you need to check that.

Ken Day
Norm Dresner - 26 Apr 2006 14:26 GMT
| Just a thought. Many casting resins and other casting materials mix by
| weight.......some mix by volume , so you need to check that.

Alumilite provides two, identical, small, (1 oz) measuring cups with
instructions to measure the same "amount" in each.  I'm pretty sure they
mean volume here.

The Castin'craft product comes with a chart by thickness of final part with
instructions on how many drops of hardener to add per ounce of resin.
Again, I'm pretty sure from the illustrations they're talking about volume.

But yes, you're right, there are some products that need to be mixed by
weight.

   Norm
Norm Dresner - 25 Apr 2006 14:50 GMT
| Let me preface this by saying that I'm trying to cast things that are
| probably too small/thin to do reliably in resin with home equipment.
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
|
| Recommendations welcome.

I tried using the Castin'craft Clear Liquid Plastic again.  This time I
overfilled the mold, leaving a thin coat of liquid resin on the top surface,
figuring that it would prevent shrinkage -- or at least complement it.

WELL ...  not quite.  Two observations:
   1.  The remaining unused resin in the cup was clear and hard as a rock
... but the stuff in the mold was almost uncured soft.
   2.  I still had shrinkage in some channels

I have to conclude that there's some kind of chemical incompatibility
here -- perhaps between the casting resin and the mold release since there's
no release in the cup and that cures perfectly.

SO ... I'm going to try a third time, this time I'll clean the mold
thoroughly and I won't use any releasing agent -- the unused slug comes out
of the cup well enough that I should be able to de-mold it from the RTV mold
without too much trouble.

Makes me wonder about the problems I was having with the Alumilite stuff too
and since that's a 5-minute product maybe I'll try that first.

 I'll post the results later.
Norm Dresner - 25 Apr 2006 16:22 GMT
Let me summarize by saying that I was having serious problems casing some
very small parts.  I've partially isolated the problem to a chemical
incompatibility between the resins I was using
   Castin'craft's Clear Liquid Plastic Casting Resin
   Alumilite Super Plastic (white)
and the mold release spray
   Mann Release Technologies "Easy Release 2000"
wihch seems to be preventing the resin from completely curing.

I thoroughly cleaned the mold with both Acetone and Alcohol and then I
repeated the casing with the Alumilite (5-minute) stuff with no release
spray.  Curing of the unused slug left in the cup seems to be completely
uniform and that resin is very hard.  Parts de-molded seemed completely
cured but were much more flexible than corresponding parts from yesterday
that were left in a closed box on the desk overnight.

SO ... I think there's definitely an incompatibility with the release spray
and the casting resins I'm using.  Since the primary purpose of a release
agent is to prevent curing at the surface junction between the RTV mold and
the part being cast, it's possible that the extreme thinness of these
parts -- some of which are only .025" thick -- may just be preventing the
part from curing at all.

BUT ... the difference between the hardness of the slug in the cup and the
parts I demolded leads me to believe that the RTV is partially at fault as
well.  I hate to get caught in the "You can only use my resin with my RTV!"
shtick that manufacturers sometimes pull by creating minor incompatibilities
between their product and their competitors' stuff, but there may be some of
that going on here.  For the record, the RTV I'm using is MicroMark's 4-hour
One-To-One which seems to me to create a rather poor mold anyway -- corners
aren't as sharp as they might be and the rubber is very fragile.

But the adventure continues.   More later.

   Norm
Ivor - 25 Apr 2006 18:18 GMT
(snipped)

| BUT ... the difference between the hardness of the slug in the cup and the
| parts I demolded leads me to believe that the RTV is partially at fault as
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
| that going on here.  For the record, the RTV I'm using is MicroMark's 4-hour
| One-To-One which seems to me to create a rather poor mold anyway --  
corners
| aren't as sharp as they might be and the rubber is very fragile.
|
| But the adventure continues.   More later.
|
|    Norm

Hi Norm,   I'm not adding anything to this discussion because I know very
little about mould-making, but seeing as you seem to have a good knowledge
of it I wondered if I could ask you something - is there any reason not to
use ordinary silicone sealant to make moulds with?  I mean the cheap stuff
that is used to seal gaps in the bathroom etc.  I know what RTV mould
making silicone is but it seems awfully expensive and fairly difficult to
get
hold of.

Ivor
Jon Miller - 25 Apr 2006 21:39 GMT
>mean the cheap stuff
that is used to seal gaps in the bathroom etc<
   Because that stuff is really a silicone glue!  As it is anyway with
molding silicone making sure the master doesn't stick can be a problem.
Norm Dresner - 26 Apr 2006 14:18 GMT
| (snipped)
|
[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
|
| Ivor

You can use just about anything as a molding agent if it has these
properties:
   1.  It retains it's shape under pressure
   2.  You can remove the masters from it when making the mold
   3.  You can remove the resin from it after casting.
I've communicated with some people who have used Sculpey oven-hardening clay
as a molding agent.  In my experience, the hardest thing is to get the
master out of it.  I've been told that Vaseline works but I've never tried
it.  OTOH, I've used Sculpey to make masters for molding.

   Norm
Ivor - 27 Apr 2006 09:37 GMT
"Norm Dresner"  wrote in message
| You can use just about anything as a molding agent if it has these
| properties:
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
|
|    Norm

Thanks for the reply Norm (and Jon too), so it sounds like its worth
a try, just have to experiment a bit ...

Ivor
Peter W. - 26 Apr 2006 06:47 GMT
Alumilite does not requre any mold release when used with Silicone RTV
molds (like Dow Corning 3110).  I've cast dozen's of parts and the mold
is still ok.

Alumilite sells several types of Silicone RTV rubbers.  Like I said, I
use 3110 and it picks up the most minute details from the master.

Like I mentoned - visit Alumilite's website and check out their
products and the forum.

Peteski
Norm Dresner - 26 Apr 2006 14:15 GMT
| Alumilite does not requre any mold release when used with Silicone RTV
| molds (like Dow Corning 3110).  I've cast dozen's of parts and the mold
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
|
| Peteski

Since I've determined that the release agent was the problem, I'm certain
you're right.

BUT ... it sure would have been nice for Alumilite to have included that in
the full 8.5x11" sheet of instructions -- they certainly had the room for
it.  They may make a fine product -- and I'll probably use the bottles I
have until they're empty ... but I won't purchase Alumilite again because
they don't care enough to include complete instructions with their products.

   Norm
Peter W. - 27 Apr 2006 04:49 GMT
> | Alumilite does not requre any mold release when used with Silicone RTV
> | molds (like Dow Corning 3110).  I've cast dozen's of parts and the mold
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>
>     Norm

I've been using Alumilite for close to 20 years now.  I've never heard
of an incompaibility with any release agants.

As far as literature goes, I've been using it long before they had a
website. I didn't feel that there wasn't enough information included
with the product.

And now they ahve a forum on their website where most posts are
answered directly by their technical people!  How much more can you ask
for?!  Anybody can create an account on those forums.  You don't have
to be a customer.

If you are unhappy - get in touch with them - they'll make it right.
Yes, I'm a satisfied customer.  They have helped me on several
occasions.

And to answer your other post - I am well aware that Alumilite gets
warm when it sets.  But the small quantity you have in the mold doesn't
have enough volume to warm up. Mold is acting like a big heat sink.
Like I said - try heat cure.  Again, I'm talking from experience.

Peteski
Anthony J. Albert - 27 Apr 2006 19:10 GMT
>Let me summarize by saying that I was having serious problems casing some
>very small parts.  I've partially isolated the problem to a chemical
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>parts -- some of which are only .025" thick -- may just be preventing the
>part from curing at all.

I've had this problem as well, and had to experiment until I found an
assortment of materials that would give me consistent results.

Eventually, I went to using no mold release agent, for a number of my
castings - castings that were single or small batches cured more
evenly, and while sometimes the mold was damaged - by that time I was
done with the number of castings I needed to make.

Anthony Albert
Norm Dresner - 28 Apr 2006 14:29 GMT
>part from curing at all.
|
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
|
| Anthony Albert

Yup!    That's my solution too.
Thanks for adding your voice to the "Incompatibility Chorus" -- maybe some
manufacturer will get the message someday.

   Norm
Bill - 26 Apr 2006 11:01 GMT
>Let me preface this by saying that I'm trying to cast things that are
>probably too small/thin to do reliably in resin with home equipment.
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
>TIA
>    Norm
Go here. They stock most everything that has to do with the type
casting you're doing , including release agents , mold materials ,
master wax etc ,etc. They also have a great CD that covers many
aspects of the molding and casting process.

http://www.freemansupply.com/

Ken Day
 
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