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Model Forum / General / Railroads / September 2006Out of gage wheels
I have an Atlas/Kato RS-3 that generally runs fine. Today durring open house it was derailing on turnouts. One of the trucks would try to take the diverging route. While re-railing the engine after one of it's jumps, I noticed that there seemed to be a lot of play between the rails. Checking with an NMRA gage I find that the wheels are too close together. Before I do somthing silly and break somthing, can somone tell me the best way to get these wheels back in gage? Thanks. The best way is to pull the wheelset from the loco and find out where the wheels slipped. Odds are that some piece of plastic slipped against the metal of the wheel. -- Yeppie, Bush is such an idiot that He usually outwits everybody else. How dumb! You lost me.. > The best way is to pull the wheelset from the loco and find out where the > wheels slipped. Odds are that some piece of plastic slipped against the [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > Yeppie, Bush is such an idiot that He usually outwits > everybody else. How dumb! Where? -- Yeppie, Bush is such an idiot that He usually outwits everybody else. How dumb! "Bob May" <bobmay@nethere.com> wrote in news:xdGdnc- 5YLUh4ITYnZ2dnUVZ_tydnZ2d@nethere.com: > Where? I'm not sure how to go about this. I can't just snap the wheels out of the trucks. So do I have to dissasembe the loco to release the trucks. Or can the trucks be opened up from the bottom without having to tear into the loco. I see no obvious way to do this. > "Bob May" <bobmay@nethere.com> wrote in news:xdGdnc- > 5YLUh4ITYnZ2dnUVZ_tydnZ2d@nethere.com: [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > the trucks be opened up from the bottom without having > to tear into the loco. I see no obvious way to do this. I have an Atlas RS-3. You said in your OP that the trucks are too close together. After exaiming the trucks, I thought you might try to use a flat bladed screwdrive to carefully wedge the wheels further apart. I don't know how much force you would need to move the wheels but I would do it as gently as possible. Sorry, but that is the best suggestion I can think of for now. Fred Ellis  SignatureWho do you serve. . . . And who do you trust? (To e-mail me, remove the X from my address) Yes, the loco must be partially disassembled to remove the truck from the loco and then the truck must be disassembled in order to gain access to the wheelset. I figured that this would be obvious to the casual observer but I guess that this is a wrong assumption in these days. Must be too much enviromental and PC stuff being taught to the kids and not enough real world stuff. -- Yeppie, Bush is such an idiot that He usually outwits everybody else. How dumb! > Yes, the loco must be partially disassembled to remove the truck from > the loco and then the truck must be disassembled in order to gain > access to the wheelset. I figured that this would be obvious to the > casual observer but I guess that this is a wrong assumption in these > days. Must be too much enviromental and PC stuff being taught to the > kids and not enough real world stuff. I'm not exactly a kid anymore. But I've never had the need to tear a loco apart down to the trucks. They are so delicate you know. And I am woried about causing unrepairable dammage. I wanted to get advice and pointers from others who have gone before me. To clearify: THe flange to flange didtance on any given axel is to short. THe wheels are too close together. I wandet to take the wheelsets out f the trucks and try to twist the wheels a bit to pull them further apart. But if you look at the bottom of the truck you can see that that is not such a simple opperation. >> Yes, the loco must be partially disassembled to remove the truck from >> the loco and then the truck must be disassembled in order to gain [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > to pull them further apart. But if you look at the bottom of > the truck you can see that that is not such a simple opperation. Gordon, I don't recall the type of engine you have. If it is a diesel, there might be a bottom clip cover on the bottom of the truck. If there is, you can gently pry it with a small screwdriver from one end. Once one end is clear, you can take the clip off and get to the wheels. They should just slip out of the bearings. If it is a steam engine, there should be screws on the bottom cover plate that you can take out. Be very careful with steam engines since if you twist the wheel to re gauge it, you will likely turn it out of quarter and it will not run well, if at all. If this doesn't help, let us know what type scale and gauge (it is suppose to be). There might also be instructions on the manufacturers web site with a isometric drawing of the loco. SignatureFrank Rosenbaum Please support the following train meets if you can Gratiot Valley ( www.gvrr.org ) in Macomb Michigan in March and November and the Kalamazoo Model Railroad Historical Society ( www.kmrhs.org ) at the Kalamazoo Fairgrounds in Kalamazoo MI in October. Also check out the Westchester Model Railroad Club's train meet in Greenwich CT in November and March. Visit this web site to see my bridge and the KMRHS http://tinyurl.com/7uqdr Frank Rosenbaum Hello The loco is an Atlas/Kato RS-3, (was in the opening). :) There should be something on the manufactuers website about what to do. I tried adjusting some carriages wheels once and then couldn't get them to stay in place. Carriage now has new wheelsets. Hmm isnt Atlas seperate from Kato ?? Atlas made in the US ?? Kato made in Japan ?? *snip* >Gordon, I don't recall the type of engine you have. If it is a diesel, >there might be a bottom clip cover on the bottom of the truck. If there is, [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] >to be). There might also be instructions on the manufacturers web site with >a isometric drawing of the loco. My Website: http://gannetweb.awardspace.com Delete the You Know What to email me! > Hello > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > Atlas made in the US ?? > Kato made in Japan ?? Yes... and no. Before Kato made their own line of US prototype locomotives, they made them for other manufacturers. Thus, "Atlas/Kato", sold by Atlas under their brand, but manufactured by Kato under contract. SignatureEvaluating all GUIs by the example of Windows is like evaluating all cars by the example of Yugos. >Hello > [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > >*snip* Kato is a Japanese company that builds locos for other mfgrs as well as their own line. Atlas is an American mfgr that has contracted with Kato ( and others ) to build locos. Most (if not all) of Atlas' locos are now built in China. I don't know if you are referring to HO or N scale, but I have and N scale RS-3, built by Kato, but Atllas branded that had issues with wheels. I just bought a set of NWSL wheels for it. No more problems; better pickup and smaller flanges. I have another RS-3 that is Kato branded ( a much newer engine ) that performs flawlessly without having to monkey with it. fl@liner This tagline has been certified to contain no political rants. >Kato is a Japanese company that builds locos for other mfgrs >as well as their own line. >Atlas is an American mfgr that has contracted with Kato >( and others ) to build locos. >Most (if not all) of Atlas' locos are now built in China. Trivia info: When stationed in Japan in the mid-60s, Kato/Seksui was the manufacturer of N scale locos and cars which were then being imported under the Con-Cor label. I was getting N scale freight and passenger cars for 20 cents each. >>Kato is a Japanese company that builds locos for other mfgrs >>as well as their own line. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] >N scale locos and cars which were then being imported under the Con-Cor >label. I was getting N scale freight and passenger cars for 20 cents each. Had we known then... Been leafing through the November MRR and noticed two brass engines, an Overland Alco for >$900, and a 2-10-4 for >$1800. Koff, koff. fl@liner This tagline has been certified to contain no political rants. >Had we known then... >Been leafing through the November MRR and noticed two brass >engines, an Overland Alco for >$900, and a 2-10-4 for >>$1800. Koff, koff. I agree but then the brass imports of today are so far superior to those made in Japan in the 60s and 70s. Still have, in a closet, an unpainted, test-run only, Nickel Plate Models, D.M.& I.R. 2-10-4. Ray Hobin NMRA Life # 17XX; TCA # HR-78-XXXXX; ARHS # 2XXX Durham, NC [Where tobacco was king; now The City of Medicine] > The loco is an Atlas/Kato RS-3, (was in the opening). :) > There should be something on the manufactuers > website about what to do. I tried adjusting some > carriages wheels once and then couldn't get them > to stay in place. Carriage now has new wheelsets. Atlas at one time or another had repair sheets available for their locomotive products, but it's anyones guess if their still available or not. > Hmm isnt Atlas seperate from Kato ?? > > Atlas made in the US ?? > Kato made in Japan ?? Actually made by Kato for Atlas, also Roco use to make products for Atlas as well. Alan > I have an Atlas/Kato RS-3 that generally runs fine. Today > durring open house it was derailing on turnouts. One of the > > Before I do somthing silly and break somthing, can somone > tell me the best way to get these wheels back in gage? I don't know fer sure, but the wheelsets should be of the plastic axle with pressed in wheels type, try disassembling the loco and the truck to see if the wheels are loose, axle cracked, or just plain out of adjustment, you can twist the wheelset to put it back in gauge if you have too. I have one of these locos, but it's never been out of the box much so I'm not sure how the engine is constructed. Alan |
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