Model Forum / General / Railroads / October 2007

gw:

Most moving parts should use a light oil, plastic-compatible if
there's any
risk of it landing on plastic parts (and there almost always is).
DON'T
pour it on.  Place a drop on a piece of glass, and then use a
toothpick or
needle to pick up a small amount and transfer it to the bearing, rod,
or
other thing being oiled.  I use some unknown brand called Turbo Oil,
which I bought from a RC model shop, and it seems to work fine.  I
don't know if it's entirely safe on plastics, though with the small
amounts
I use, I haven't had trouble as yet.

For gears, you don't want to use an oil, but a grease that will stay
in
place.  Again, model RC shops have light greases that should work
fine.  I strongly suspect most of these to be common white lithium
grease in small expensive tubes.  Some people like moly greases,
which are basically dry lubricants in a grease carrier.  I'm no
tribologist
so I can't say yea or nay; I just use whatever light grease the model
shop has.  Don't overdo it.  You want just enough grease to do the
job.  You can always add more.

For Kadee couplers, do not use grease or oil.  Use dry powdered
graphite.  I use the stuff sold at the hardware store for door locks.
It seems to work fine.  Kadee sells their own brand, "Greas-Em".

Summary: Oil metal bearings, grease gears,  and dry-graphite
couplers.  Leave the self-lubricating plastic bearings alone.

Cordially yours:
Gerard P.
President, a box of track and a gappy table.

If you have the manufacturer's instruction sheet, you won't go wrong
following the maker's recommendations.  If the locomotive came to you
lacking the instruction sheet, there is a good chance google will turn
one up for you.
  If no instruction sheet is available, you want to lubricate all metal
to metal moving parts.  Plastic-to-metal or plastic-to-plastic moving
parts will work fine and last a long time without lube, the plastic is
very slippery.  However the urge to lubricate runs strongly in model
railroaders, and its perfectly all right to put some lube on the plastic
moving parts too.
  Gears ought to get grease, Kadee couplers want a puff of graphite,
and everything else (rods, valve gear, axles, wheel bearings) wants a
light oil.
  Back in the dark ages plastic sometimes broke  down or lost its paint
when exposed to ordinary oil.  The Labelle company offers a line of
"plastic compatible" oils.  Many folk will tell you that Labelle is the
only way to go, and I will confess to having a tube of it on hand. On
the other hand I have used 3 in 1 oil and never had my plastic cringe
away from it.  Other folk recommend automatic transmission fluid because
automatic trannies have plastic parts inside them which stand up to the
fluid.  I haven't tried it myself so your mileage may vary.  Ordinary
10W30 motor oil is too thick for model use IMHO. Avoid brake fluid, it
will eat paint and plastic.
  I have used ordinary automotive grease and Vaseline petroleum jelly
for grease.  There is probably something better out there but I don't
have any, what ever it is.
  Go real easy on the oil.  The motion of the parts tends to fling it
off and it goes everywhere, onto the wheels, commutator, the rails, and
makes the entire locomotive greasy.

David Starr

General rules:
- Things that move slowly or are enclosed are adequately lubricated with
oil.
- Things not enclosed that spin fast need grease.(or pressure feed oil)
- Things that will collect dirt and fluff need dry lubrication. (eg
graphite)

Of your list above, all but the worm need oiling, the worm gear needs
grease.
Motor armatures, commutators and brushes should not be oiled. Motor
bearings should be sparingly oiled to avoid oil getting to the brushes.

Greg.P.

Everyone seems to use graphite powder as it don't drip on the roadbed. I
would like to know were to buy it for myself .

Phil Anderson