> [Hey, that was a FAST answer!]
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> The problem is, I don't have a layout (only some modules, so there's no
> guaranteed lighting).
Well, just use the lighting _yiou_ have, and take your chances at
exhibitions. Or you could add lights mounted above the backscene, with
reflectors aiming the light down onto your modules. that way you will
some control, since such lighting will modify the ambient light in the
exhibition hall.
> An idea I have is to use as a color guide the cover of the (wonderful!)
> "British Columbia Railway" by J.F.Garden, which is printed in this two-tone
> green scheme.
Search on British Columbia railway images, and you will find quite a
few. They will give a pretty good idea of the variation due to
weathering, as well as effects of light (sunshine vs overcast, etc).
>> b) keep precise records of colour mixes;
>
> I remember that some companies were offering particular colours (e.g. "BN
> Green", "UP yellow", etc.), so I hoped for a ready-made BCR mix.
Unfortunately not.
>> c) use a primer as a basecoat for the whole model;
>
> Hmm, the locomotive is already painted.
> Should I paint-strip the locomotive before I start painting?
> I have no idea about the risks associated with Roco plastic locomotives.
Well, it does help to strip the model but it's not essential. I have
found that sometimes th lettering is thick enough to show under the new
paint.
> I have uploaded a photo from an Ebay seller, to give you an idea of the
> current paint scheme, at
> http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/5774/dispolok2gh5rl0.jpg
Well, keep in mind that model paints are somewhat translucent, so that
the colours underneath them will affect the colour that you perceive.
That's why an overspray of primer is advisable. A light coat is enough,
it doesn't have to totally cover the existing paint.
>> d) test your colour mixes on test patches of primer applied to the same
>> materials as the model (and label every patch.)
>
> For a read-to-run model, that advice will be a bit hard to follow...
Er, ready to run these days is styrene plastic. Prime a sheet, mask off
the test patches.
>> And a general aesthetic rule:
>> Consistency of colours is more important than correctness;
>
> I suppose this means in practice "mix enough colour, so you can paint the
> whole locomotive in one go without re-mixing".
I had in mind using the same colour mix every time. Slight variations
are OK, since weathering fades all paint.
>> Well, the whole thing looks too pale to me, but that's probably just my
>> monitor. The livery is very pleasant.
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/8353/alsthomtraxxwhitefj0.jpg
> http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/4242/alsthomtraxxwarmtheme2lg0.jpg
I prefer the solid colour liveries, with horizontal stripes a close
second. Those diagonal swatches do not turn my crank. ;-) But all the
liveries suit the locomotive very well. What's your aim? Modelling an
alternate universe?
Cheers,

Signature
wolf k.
Nick Fotis - 07 May 2008 22:48 GMT
>> An idea I have is to use as a color guide the cover of the (wonderful!)
>> "British Columbia Railway" by J.F.Garden, which is printed in this
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> few. They will give a pretty good idea of the variation due to
> weathering, as well as effects of light (sunshine vs overcast, etc).
I have already the book itself, which is a 'good enough' (I suppose, never
been in the Americas).
A JPEG on a uncalibrated monitor isn't a very safe guide, I suspect.
Another idea I had: to buy an Atlas C420 in BCR paint scheme and use it as a
reference?
>>> b) keep precise records of colour mixes;
>>
>> I remember that some companies were offering particular colours (e.g. "BN
>> Green", "UP yellow", etc.), so I hoped for a ready-made BCR mix.
>
> Unfortunately not.
On another message in this thread, another poster mentioned a custom-made
Scalecoat mix (sounds excellent).
Any caveats about using Scalecoat paints?
>>> c) use a primer as a basecoat for the whole model;
>>
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> found that sometimes th lettering is thick enough to show under the new
> paint.
So, I may try some brake fluid and experiment a bit? (I am a bit leery...)
Another idea is using vinegar (does it work in stripping paint?)
Now, about the white stripes: would you suggest making a custom decal, or
try to do it with masking tape?
Since I said 'custom decals', which paper/printer combination would you
suggest? The basic backgrounds are white and transparent.
(I am a Linux user, if that helps to limit the multiplicity of
options :-) ).
I noticed an interesting pattern on a BCR nose (don't remember the original
site, sorry):
http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/9068/733pv8.jpg
How would you implement such a painting on the nose?
White stripes on transparent decal paper sounds like the easiest way to do
it.
> I prefer the solid colour liveries, with horizontal stripes a close
> second. Those diagonal swatches do not turn my crank. ;-) But all the
> liveries suit the locomotive very well. What's your aim? Modelling an
> alternate universe?
Despite me being a fan of science fiction and alternate history, the
'alternate universe' idea didn't cross my mind :-)
Maybe I like to play 'what if' paint scenarios, and I am VERY curious to see
how these paint schemes look in a three-dimensional object...
Cheers,
N.Fotis
Wolf Kirchmeir - 08 May 2008 01:23 GMT
[...]
> On another message in this thread, another poster mentioned a custom-made
> Scalecoat mix (sounds excellent).
> Any caveats about using Scalecoat paints?
They are solvent-based paints, so you can't use them on bare plastic,
and you should beware of breathing the fumes. Apart from that, they are
very good. Go to http://cnlines.ca/ for more information on Can. RR
paints, and lots of info about CNR.
[...]
> So, I may try some brake fluid and experiment a bit? (I am a bit leery...)
> Another idea is using vinegar (does it work in stripping paint?)
Not as far as I know. Try isopropyl alcohol to remove the lettering,
it's usually ink not paint. You can also usually erase lettering with a
hard eraser, or with a fiberglass eraser. I have not tried brake fluid,
but it's supposed to work.
> Now, about the white stripes: would you suggest making a custom decal, or
> try to do it with masking tape?
Depends. Some decal straight stripes are available from various sources
in various colours and widths.
> Since I said 'custom decals', which paper/printer combination would you
> suggest? The basic backgrounds are white and transparent.
> (I am a Linux user, if that helps to limit the multiplicity of
> options :-) ).
I've never made my own decals, so can't advise you.
> I noticed an interesting pattern on a BCR nose (don't remember the original
> site, sorry):
> http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/9068/733pv8.jpg
> How would you implement such a painting on the nose?
> White stripes on transparent decal paper sounds like the easiest way to do
> it.
I've never done this, but the articles about painting diagonal stripes
on engines all mention masking tape. BTW, use painter's tape, not
ordinary masking tape. It's blue or green, and has less tack than
ordinary tape, which means it's less likely to lift the paint.
>> I prefer the solid colour liveries, with horizontal stripes a close
>> second. Those diagonal swatches do not turn my crank. ;-) But all the
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> Maybe I like to play 'what if' paint scenarios, and I am VERY curious to see
> how these paint schemes look in a three-dimensional object...
"What if" is a common approach to layout design. Even the prototype
modellers do it. ;-)

Signature
wolf k.
Nick Fotis - 13 May 2008 23:17 GMT
Hello again,
Another Canadian modeler proposed that I use these ModelMasters/Testors
colours:
Pale Green FS34227
Green FS34079
Are these a good match?
I suspect these will be easier with my A470 airbrush, compared to a first
test with Vallejo Air paints.
I will try to visit our local push...er dealer and take a peek at a printed
colour guide by the end of the week.
I asked Central Hobbies for a quote about the CN Lines SIG custom Scalecoat
paints, but it seems they cannot ship solvent-based paints outside the
Americas :-(
(Scalecoat code: #100-30 and 100-31).
Still searching, but I think I'll manage it ;-)
Cheers,
N.Fotis
Nick Fotis - 22 May 2008 23:23 GMT
Hmm, nothing new (yet).
I went to local shops, but these Modelmasters colours are available.
One dealer suggested the Gunze Sangyo H319 and H309 acrylics, are these a
good match for the FS34227 and FS34079 codes?
I know the Modelmaster colours are enamels. The availability of these is
very sparse (a central dealer in Athens when asked when he'll restock from
this range, he replied 'from September'...)
Cheers,
N.F.