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Model Forum / General / Railroads / July 2009Affixing track and switches to foam roadbed
It seems like a basic question, but I haven't laid track (N gauge) in a number of years, and haven't done so before on Woodland's foam roadbed. Virtually all of the trackwork is tangent, with a great many switches in this first module. All soldering to track joints has been done as well as track feeds, and switch machines are in place and tested, so I had in mind something to adhere by capillary to the underside of the ties, and would lay very flat for ballasting later. I just haven't been reading the mags and how-to's recently, and Woodland's suggested tacky glue doesn't seem to best fit my needs. So I thank you in advance for suggested products. Steve Woodall > It seems like a basic question, but I haven't laid track (N gauge) in a > number of years, and haven't done so before on Woodland's foam roadbed. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Steve Woodall 1st step - open lid to trash can Thanks, but no. Steve On Jun 26, 8:09?pm, "Steve Woodall" <swoodall...@earthlink.net> wrote: > It seems like a basic question, but I haven't laid track (N gauge) in a > number of years, and haven't done so before on Woodland's foam roadbed. [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > Steve Woodall 1st step - open lid to trash can Steve, I have to agree with Mike. I strongly recommend against using WS foam roadbed. It is just too soft and squishy to provide adequate support for track. We used on about half of friends N scale layout but we ended up switching to cork. Not only it is difficult to glue, it is so soft that if you accidentally rest your hand on the ballasted track it will give in, cracking all the ballast in that area. Cork is much stiffer and you won't have that problem. As far as glue goes, that foam is not styrofoam and it is very resistant to all glue solvents. You can basically use anything you want (even glues which would melt styrene). We're seriously considering ripping it all up and replacing it with cork roadbed. Mike really had a good suggestion. Peteski > Thanks, but no. > Steve > > On Jun 26, 8:09?pm, "Steve Woodall" <swoodall...@earthlink.net> wrote: > 1st step - open lid to trash can > It seems like a basic question, but I haven't laid track (N gauge) in a > number of years, and haven't done so before on Woodland's foam roadbed. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Steve Woodall Glue cork roadbed (I prefer to think of it as a ballast former) in place on top of the Woodland Scenics roadbed, and use pins to hold the track until you ballast it. Use a water-based, plastic compatible contact cement to hold the cork. Do not use the construction cement sold in tubes, it's too thick. The WS roadbed is not suited as a ballast former. HTH wolf k. I'd worked out when I first started this module to try the foam former, since this is a terminal and the ballast tends to become a tough shell when completed. I've got a test section going right now, using rubber toughened CA that has a sifferent formula than the standard CA adhesives. It hasn't burned through the foam yet, and it does have a bit of flexibility to the joint when set. Added bonus is the tiny applicator tip will fit between the ties in tight situations (of which there are many). I mainly just need to hold the track in straight lines until I get to the ballast portion of this project. Thanks, Wolf. See you on the other NG later. Steve | > It seems like a basic question, but I haven't laid track (N gauge) in a | > number of years, and haven't done so before on Woodland's foam roadbed. [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] | | wolf k. >I'd worked out when I first started this module to try the foam former, >since this is a terminal and the ballast tends to become a tough shell when [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > >Steve Hi guys, As an interested observer who's been following this newsgroup for years, but unable to post until recently, could you tell me which other newsgroup, or other forum that's in better shape than this one (I've been dismayed that this one has deteriorated to the point where the Greg and Ray show is 90% of what I'm seeing these days) you are referring to. Thanks for any help, Eric Curtis [...] > (I've been dismayed that this one has deteriorated to the point where > the Greg and Ray show is 90% of what I'm seeing these days) you are [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Eric Curtis All new readers have filtering capabilities. Set up a filter to block posts that you won't want to see. Or don't open the posts. HTH wolf k. On 6/28/2009 4:09 AM Wolf K spake thus: > [...] > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Or don't open the posts. That's what I do; just ignore 'em. Easy, requires no configuration.  SignatureFound--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism > It seems like a basic question, but I haven't laid track (N gauge) in a > number of years, and haven't done so before on Woodland's foam roadbed. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Steve Woodall I've had decent success with Elmer's Pliobond. It is a yellow liquid similar to their carpenter's glue. I've used it to atach foam to foam, WS roadbed to foam, and Atlas C55 track to the WS roadbed. It holds well and can be separated with a steel putty knife or straight edge if necessary. It is also waterproof, and can be ballasted with PVA glue as usual. Better places than here to get good answers would be the Trainboard or Atlas forums. SignatureMike "A man who thinks of himself as belonging to a particular national group in America has not yet become an American. And the man who goes among you to trade upon your nationality is no worthy son to live under the Stars and Stripes." -- Woodrow Wilson Thanks for the suggestion. I probably could use that in most situations, but there are a few spots that I would have difficulty raising the trackwork enough to get the nozzle or a brush ladened with the Pliobond into. If my trial method (see reply to Wolf K) doesn't work, then I will fall back to the way I've done track on cork before. Steve | > It seems like a basic question, but I haven't laid track (N gauge) in a | > number of years, and haven't done so before on Woodland's foam roadbed. [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] | Better places than here to get good answers would be the | Trainboard or Atlas forums. As a follow up to this trial with the rubber toughened CA adhesive, the product works well for this purpose, with maybe 45 seconds of workable time before it takes a set. The area that it is applied to still retains some elasticity. The problem lies in the delivery container. No matter how much I tried to clean the tip and the ferrel, this stuff is much thicker than even the gel style CA, and tends to slump and bridge inside the tip. So, this method is a not to be repeated experiment. Back to good ol' Pliobond. Thanks all for your suggestions. Steve Woodall > As a follow up to this trial with the rubber toughened CA adhesive, the > product works well for this purpose, with maybe 45 seconds of workable [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > clean the tip and the ferrel, this stuff is much thicker than even the gel > style CA, and tends to slump and bridge inside the tip. Might the manufacturer supply it in other types of container? Often retailers only carry limited options. >The problem lies in the delivery container. No matter how much I tried to >clean the tip and the ferrel, this stuff is much thicker than even the gel >style CA, and tends to slump and bridge inside the tip. Steve, Have you tried a T pin like those used in Model Aircraft building? Some of them are really long and thicker than normal pins making them ideal for keeping the CA tips from gumming up. The T on the end makes it very easy to remove even when the glue is doing its best to hold it in place. -- Ray |
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