 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
| HomeDiscussion Groups General ModelsRailroadsRocketsRadio Controlled Air ModelsHelicoptersLand ModelsWater ModelsModelGeeks.com Contact UsLink To UsSearch & Site Map |
Model Forum / General / Railroads / November 2009Proxxon FKS/E or Micro-Mark equivalent mini table saw
Referring to this table saw; http://www.miniaturetree.com/imgcategory/257_b.jpg Has anyone ever used this to cut aluminum say .1"" thick using the 24 teeth carbide blade or similar? On 10/29/2009 12:30 PM oparr@hotmail.com spake thus: > Referring to this table saw; > > http://www.miniaturetree.com/imgcategory/257_b.jpg > > Has anyone ever used this to cut aluminum say .1"" thick using the 24 > teeth carbide blade or similar? Without having used it, I can tell you that it will work, although the cut may be a bit ragged. I have cut aluminum on a larger table saw with a carbide blade. Usually needs cleaning up afterwards. In terms of smoothness of cut, the more teeth the better. You also might want to try a fine non-carbide blade (like one made for plywood).  SignatureWho needs a junta or a dictatorship when you have a Congress blowing Wall Street, using the media as a condom? - harvested from Usenet >In terms of smoothness of cut, the more teeth the better. Agree. However, the 24 tooth (2.3 T/I) carbide is what the attached recommends for aluminum thicker than 1/16"; https://www.micromark.com/html_pages/instructions/80463i/arbor_saw.htm I also asked Micro-Mark tech support what were their thoughts and they recommended the following abrasive cut off disk; http://www.micromark.com/ABRASIVE-CUT-OFF-DISK-NON-FERROUS-3-1and4-DIA-10mm-HOLE ,8115.html My experience with abrasive disks for cutting has never been good. ISTR sparks flying, an obnoxious odor and the process taking forever. I'm leaning towards the 168 tooth (17 T/I) jeweler's blade which is recommended for soft brass up to 1/8"...What do you think? On 10/30/2009 8:53 AM oparr@hotmail.com spake thus: >> In terms of smoothness of cut, the more teeth the better. > > Agree. However, the 24 tooth (2.3 T/I) carbide is what the attached > recommends for aluminum thicker than 1/16"; > > https://www.micromark.com/html_pages/instructions/80463i/arbor_saw.htm OK. I'd at least consider their recommendation. > I also asked Micro-Mark tech support what were their thoughts and they > recommended the following abrasive cut off disk; [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > My experience with abrasive disks for cutting has never been good. > ISTR sparks flying, an obnoxious odor and the process taking forever. I wouldn't use an abrasive disk for cutting aluminum. Too soft, and leaves a *really* jagged edge. Works OK for ferrous metals. > I'm leaning towards the 168 tooth (17 T/I) jeweler's blade which is > recommended for soft brass up to 1/8"...What do you think? Aluminum's softer than brass, or about as soft, so it *should* work. I'd try it, so long as the blade's not super-expensive. SignatureWho needs a junta or a dictatorship when you have a Congress blowing Wall Street, using the media as a condom? - harvested from Usenet >I'd try it, so long as the blade's not super-expensive. Actually, it's $10.00 cheaper than the carbide blade. Thanks! On Oct 30, 10:53 am, "op...@hotmail.com" <op...@hotmail.com> wrote: > >In terms of smoothness of cut, the more teeth the better. > [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > I'm leaning towards the 168 tooth (17 T/I) jeweler's blade which is > recommended for soft brass up to 1/8"...What do you think? I agree with you Opar that the 168 tooth blade is the way to go. My father was an industrial arts teacher and I learned from him some 54 years ago. In the time since then I have cut all types of metals and woods and the rule has always been to use higher number of teeth per inch or centimeter, however you want to measure, if you want a fine cut. John Hubbard >I agree with you Opar that the 168 tooth blade is the way to go. Got the machine and the 168T blade yesterday. It cut through the .1" alu like butter leaving a mirror looking finish as though it was milled. Exactly what I was looking for. BTW, for those in the USA, MIcro-Mark has a sale on the Proxxon FKS/E "clone" (doesn't look as impressive but made by Proxxon using same parts and spec) for $259.95, that's $90.00 off their usual price of $349.95. Even at $259.95 it's overpriced IMO but I needed something small, quiet, with variable speed and a finished cut. > Referring to this table saw; > > http://www.miniaturetree.com/imgcategory/257_b.jpg > > Has anyone ever used this to cut aluminum say .1"" thick using the 24 > teeth carbide blade or similar? The "rule of thumb" for sawing anything successfully is to have a minimum of 3 teeth cutting in the material at any given moment. Less teeth will cut, but extremely roughly with likely damage to the teeth and to the material. For 0.1" thick material you need 30 teeth per inch or more. I personally would have a go with a saw of 20 or more teeth per inch, but carefully. Greg.P. >For 0.1" thick material you need 30 teeth per inch or more. RPM should also be a factor when considering rotary saws. I'm able to rip 1/16" aluminum sheeting using a 7 T/I blade and the finish looks like a metal shear prtess was used. No sanding required. However, things start getting ragged when thickness approaches .1". I'd be most worried about the ability of the motor to drivve the blade. Also, usee a thin oil when cutting and the edge will be allot smoother than if cut dry. The blade will also not fill with aluminum and thus keep a better cutting. -- Bob May rmay at nethere.com http: slash /nav.to slash bobmay http: slash /bobmay dot astronomy.net >Also, usee a thin oil when cutting and the edge will be allot >smoother than if cut dry. I never cut dry, that's one sure way to wear out cutting tools fast as well. Always used a lube "crayon". Works well and less messy than oil. On 10/31/2009 5:00 AM oparr@hotmail.com spake thus: >> Also, usee a thin oil when cutting and the edge will be allot >> smoother than if cut dry. > > I never cut dry, that's one sure way to wear out cutting tools fast as > well. Always used a lube "crayon". Works well and less messy than oil. Ackshooly, no lube on a saw blade is going to do much good, as it's all gone after the first few hundred revolutions of the blade (unless one has a steady flow of oil or something). Oil *is* messy. No lubricant required for this sort of cutting. SignatureWho needs a junta or a dictatorship when you have a Congress blowing Wall Street, using the media as a condom? - harvested from Usenet >as it's all gone after the first few hundred revolutions of the blade I can see you've never used a lube "crayon". On 11/4/2009 4:43 PM oparr@hotmail.com spake thus: >> as it's all gone after the first few hundred revolutions of the blade > > I can see you've never used a lube "crayon". Well, I've used wax (candle wax) to lubricate all kinds of tools. But that lube isn't going to stay there forever; just saying that it gets worn off pretty quickly. SignatureWho needs a junta or a dictatorship when you have a Congress blowing Wall Street, using the media as a condom? - harvested from Usenet >Well, I've used wax (candle wax) to lubricate all kinds of tools. Try this; http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31kw6Js%2BnCL._SL500_AA280_.jpg Just touch it to the blade while spinning. Good for several cuts, just re-apply on the fly between cuts. Much better than oil. |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2012 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.