Model Forum / General / Rockets / November 2003

Bob, I've used water based finishes with very poor results. They don't seem
to adhere to the surface very well and don't cover as smooth as I liked. I
was using finishes for the furniture industry and am not sure what the
paints are like. The stuff I used just didn't seem to bond with the surface
like the products I used with a solvent type base.

John

I have not tried those, But I have used ones that look very similar and same
packaging in the hobby stores for use with R/C Cars.

I used them in an airbrush and applied them to my helicopter canopy made
from the same material as LOC nose cones.
As with plastics like that, I used a product called "Flexible bonding clear"
to bond the paint to the plastic.
It worked great and the "very light coating" produced a "vivid green" on the
bright white plastic.

The canopy is now two years old and only a small spot where I hit the canopy
with my electric starter has a small ship in it.
The helicopter (like many) can vibrate very strongly at a certain motor rpm
as it powers up, so I feel the paint held well.

If I aplied it to a body tube, white primer would be needed first, as the
paint does not seem very opaque.

I can or can't recomend it for rocket use yet, as I have not tired it yet
for that.

/ArtU

I have used the old type AutoAir paints with good results.  Just
recently received a few of the new formulation - no tests of them yet.
The discontinued Dr. Ph Martins Metalcraft also did well.  All of these
are intended for use on motorcycles, helmets, etc. and appear to be a
hybrid system - water cleanup, but also contain some organic solvents,
although little odor.  The Golden airbrush colors, on the other hand
must be used on porous surfaces only - a great way to give gliders and
heliroc blades a bright color without adding significant weight.

George W. Scheil

I used autoair, poor results. The paint goes on like latex glove, would take
off like one too. Used it under future but needs like a month to cure so
that it can be real hard and all... I'd recommend a clear lacquer of some
kind dyed or pigmented with whatever color you desire. Aniline dye can be
used if a white basecoat (or silver for a metallic effect) is used, and will
give a nice transparent look. Try it, you'll love it. Even try to seal a
balsa nosecone, then spray lacquer tinted with the dye over it, gives a nice
woodgrain effect. Steward Macdonald sells this water based lacquer that said
to have 100% burn in so that you can also polish the stuff like traditional
lacquer. I havent used it but some said they had good results. I'd avoid
those airbrush colors because they are expensive, and its not hard to make
your own and for less money too. Stewmac also sells dyes and pigments to
use...