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[FFT] Pyrogened sustainers?

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bit eimer - 25 Oct 2004 16:37 GMT
Hi all,

HGS this weekend was great - except for my own launches.  :^(       Gila
Monster was spectacular.

My Big Bert (a gap-staged version of Big Bertha) failed to ignite the
sustainer and desert-darted with 7" of BT crunch (luckily, no damage to the
desert floor).

I had scraped the sustainer motor grain to assure that there was no clay
blocking the nozzle, but to no avail.

After a search of rmr, I see that some people have used a wire dipped in
pyrogen to ignite upper stages, but I was thinking that simply painting
pyrogen up into the sustainer nozzle might work just as well without having
the issue of securing such an igniter in place.

Has anyone experience with this technique?  Think it worth trying or is
there an obvious flaw in my reasoning?

Signature

...The Bit Eimer     NAR 84054
"My goal in life is to be the kind of person my cat thinks he is"
[remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me]
--------------------------------------------------------------

Doug Sams - 25 Oct 2004 17:51 GMT
> I had scraped the sustainer motor grain to assure that there was no clay
> blocking the nozzle, but to no avail.

I've had that happen a couple times, too.  Most recently with a C11
sustainer.

> After a search of rmr, I see that some people have used a wire dipped in
> pyrogen to ignite upper stages,

That's basically what the Apogee staging ignitors were.  I have some but
have never tried them.

> but I was thinking that simply painting  pyrogen up into the sustainer
> nozzle might work just as well without having the issue of securing
> such an igniter in place.

I want to try just painting it, too. The key is painting the back end of
the motor so that if a hot chunk missles the hold but hits around it,
the pyrogen should still ignite.

The other thing I wanted to try was using fine cotton thread, dipping it
in the pyrogen, then inserting it into the sustainer motor to dry.  That
should bond it in place.  Also, I envisioned keeping the thread to one
side of the nozzle to minimize obstructing it, and maybe making a coil
of thread around the nozzle to act as a "catcher's mitt" for the hot
chunks.

http://home.flash.net/~samily/stuff/stage-ignitor.pdf

My 2 cents.

Doug
bit eimer - 25 Oct 2004 19:08 GMT
<snip>

>> but I was thinking that simply painting  pyrogen up into the sustainer
>> nozzle might work just as well without having the issue of securing
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>
> My 2 cents.

I like your thread concept, especially letting it dry in place.   The coil
part might be kind of messy to implement, but it you just brought the thread
out straight to the side of the motor and then painted the entire surface of
the nozzle (not inside) with pyrogen, you'd have an even-better chance of
ignition from non-optimally aimed sparks.

Thinking of setting up a test for this:  Two engines in gap-staging
configuration, sustainer ignition enhancer as above, center of sustainer
nozzle blocked with something to simulate the failure of booster
blow-through reaching the sustainer grain.   Suggestions?  especially on how
to block the nozzle-center without interfered with the burn behavior of the
pyrogened thread?

Signature

...The Bit Eimer     NAR 84054
"My goal in life is to be the kind of person my cat thinks he is"
[remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me]
--------------------------------------------------------------

Bob Kaplow - 25 Oct 2004 19:29 GMT
> I like your thread concept, especially letting it dry in place.   The coil
> part might be kind of messy to implement, but it you just brought the thread
> out straight to the side of the motor and then painted the entire surface of
> the nozzle (not inside) with pyrogen, you'd have an even-better chance of
> ignition from non-optimally aimed sparks.

Back in the old days, we'd stick a small SureShot in the nozzle to insure
ignition.

    Bob Kaplow    NAR # 18L    TRA # "Impeach the TRA BoD"
        >>> To reply, remove the TRABoD! <<<
Kaplow Klips & Baffle:    http://nira-rocketry.org/LeadingEdge/Phantom4000.pdf
   www.encompasserve.org/~kaplow_r/    www.nira-rocketry.org    www.nar.org

    26-October, 2001: A day that will live in infamy
    Support Freedom: http://www.indefenseoffreedom.org/

    Voting for "the lesser of two evils" is still voting for evil.
Doug Sams - 25 Oct 2004 19:47 GMT
> Suggestions?  especially on how to block the nozzle-center
> without interfered with the burn behavior of the pyrogened
> thread?

Use a spent motor case for the sustainer - no need to use up
any more good motors than necessary.  Saw off the case just
above the remaining nozzle clay.

Insert the pyrogened thread thru the nozzle and put a short
piece of wooden dowel in to hold the drying thread and block
the opening.  

When the test is run, if the pyrogen is successfully lit, the
thread should burn thru to the sawn end of the motor and
be visible.  Eh??

Doug
bit eimer - 25 Oct 2004 20:01 GMT
<snip>

> Use a spent motor case for the sustainer - no need to use up
> any more good motors than necessary.  Saw off the case just
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> thread should burn thru to the sawn end of the motor and
> be visible.  Eh??

great ideas - you don't think the dowel will cut off the flame?

Also, found this on TRF:

"I fill the nozzle with 4FG BP, and then cap it off with very thin Magnelite
pyrogen. I use a toothpick and let it drip on the nozzle. Then use a finger
to press it down. I use this on small throat BP motors. I have also used it
when staging one motor to several motors."     posted by n3tjm

I suppose one could use Pyrodex-P instead of the 4F BP, if one doesn't have
an antique firearm to use as a "cover".    Now I just have to find a local
Pyrodex-P source (Phoenix) to be able to test this approach too.

Signature

...The Bit Eimer     NAR 84054
"My goal in life is to be the kind of person my cat thinks he is"
[remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me]
--------------------------------------------------------------

Doug Sams - 25 Oct 2004 20:29 GMT
> great ideas - you don't think the dowel will cut off the flame?

It shouldn't.  The pyrogen has its own oxidizer, so it ought to
keep burning past the "pinch".

> Also, found this on TRF:
>
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> an antique firearm to use as a "cover".    Now I just have to find a local
> Pyrodex-P source (Phoenix) to be able to test this approach too.

We discussed this a couple years ago at DARS with one of our
sharpest gurus.  My fear was that the BP would just blow the stages
apart without lighting the upper :)  But one test is worth a thousand
expert opinions :)

Doug
bit eimer - 25 Oct 2004 21:35 GMT
Well, I just did the test.

Surprisingly, while the pyrodex on the nozzle surface flashed real nice, the
thread did NOT burn past the stick of balsa I had stuffed in the nozzle.  So
the test was inconclusive.  If the stick hadn't been there, the thread
probably would have burned into the nozzle to start the sustainer.

For the next test, I'm thinking a small circle of masking tape over the
nozzle throat will block the burn through particles but not pinch off the
thread flame.

Signature

...The Bit Eimer     NAR 84054
"My goal in life is to be the kind of person my cat thinks he is"
[remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me]
--------------------------------------------------------------

>> great ideas - you don't think the dowel will cut off the flame?
>
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
>
> Doug
bit eimer - 25 Oct 2004 21:57 GMT
Tried the second test using masking tape to block the nozzle.   Everthing
fried so well that I don't know if the masking tape block the initial burn
through of not.

Next test:  small plate, preferably metal to block the nozzel.

Signature

...The Bit Eimer     NAR 84054
"My goal in life is to be the kind of person my cat thinks he is"
[remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me]
--------------------------------------------------------------

> Well, I just did the test.
>
[quoted text clipped - 35 lines]
>>
>> Doug
bit eimer - 25 Oct 2004 22:33 GMT
Tried the third test.  Used a very small screw with a small fiber washer to
block the nozzle.  No pressure on the thread at all.

Interestinger and interestinger.  Results were same as the first test -
pyrogen on the surface of the nozzle flashed but thread did not burn into
the nozzle past the fiber washer.

So now I'm stuck.  I can't prove the thread method really enhances the
ignition because I have no way to block the nozzle without extinguishing the
thread.

But hey Doug, at least I only burned up three engines (thanks to your
suggestion) and not 6!

Now I'm back to the original idea: why not just paint the entire nozzle
surface, including throat, with pyrogen (perhaps diluted).   Has this been
tried?  Did it block the nozzle?

Signature

...The Bit Eimer     NAR 84054
"My goal in life is to be the kind of person my cat thinks he is"
[remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me]
--------------------------------------------------------------

> Tried the second test using masking tape to block the nozzle.   Everthing
> fried so well that I don't know if the masking tape block the initial burn
[quoted text clipped - 41 lines]
>>>
>>> Doug
Doug Sams - 25 Oct 2004 22:45 GMT
> So now I'm stuck.  I can't prove the thread method really enhances the
> ignition because I have no way to block the nozzle without extinguishing the
> thread.

Had the thread been dipped in pyrogen?

> But hey Doug, at least I only burned up three engines (thanks to your
> suggestion) and not 6!

Sometimes I can be helpful :)

Consider this:  Use a needle to hold a short length of dowel in front of
the nozzle.  

BTW, kudos to you for making these efforts.  It is appreciated.

Doug
bit eimer - 25 Oct 2004 23:24 GMT
Thread was dipped in pyrogen.

In the meantime, I thought I found the problem:  this was thread I snagged
from my wife's sewing basket - thought it was cotton, but NO, its polyester.

So I unraveled some generic cotton twine, dipped a strand, and tested that
it would burn past the fiber washer using just a match to light i (which it
did).

Next, I tried the same with the polyester thread thinking it would stop.
But no, it burned right past the washer too.   Argh.

I wonder if the slight over-pressure from booster burn-through is clamping
the washer down on the thread and pinching off the flame.

Your needling idea would address that.  Now to implement...

So I cut another short section of spent engine along with a matching length
of 1/4" dowel and pinned the dowel in place with a finishing nail.  Trimmed
off the nail ends, taped this new nozzle-blocker to the end of my
pseudo-sustainer.

Test was successful.

BUT, my test jig allows gasses to vent all the way through the
pseudo-sustainer, so it could be that particles are flowing around the
nozzle-blocker.  So next is to test it with a real sustainer... maybe
tomorrow.

Signature

...The Bit Eimer     NAR 84054
"My goal in life is to be the kind of person my cat thinks he is"
[remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me]
--------------------------------------------------------------

>> So now I'm stuck.  I can't prove the thread method really enhances the
>> ignition because I have no way to block the nozzle without extinguishing
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>
> Doug
David - 25 Oct 2004 23:47 GMT
I think there is a very good chance that the BP in the motor has a lower
ignition point than the pyrogen, so you'd actually be making it worse.  Of
course, you could always do some testing with Bert.

-- David
> Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> Has anyone experience with this technique?  Think it worth trying or is
> there an obvious flaw in my reasoning?
bit eimer - 25 Oct 2004 23:58 GMT
I'm pretty sure the failure had less to do with temperature of gasses in the
chamber and more to do with the statistical probability of not getting
glowing "blow-through" particles from the booster actually entering the
sustainer nozzle.

My thought was:  by painting the nozzle surface with pyrogen, the chance of
some blow-through particles impacting an ignitable surface would be greatly
increasing.  Once any part of the pyrogen started, it would burn right into
the nozzle throat and ignite the sustainer grain.

The tests I've done so far have shown no problem with the booster
blow-through igniting the pyrogen, so it seems the ignition temp is not
problematic, per se.

Signature

...The Bit Eimer     NAR 84054
"My goal in life is to be the kind of person my cat thinks he is"
[remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me]
--------------------------------------------------------------

>I think there is a very good chance that the BP in the motor has a lower
>ignition point than the pyrogen, so you'd actually be making it worse.  Of
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>> Has anyone experience with this technique?  Think it worth trying or is
>> there an obvious flaw in my reasoning?
bit eimer - 26 Oct 2004 00:36 GMT
OK,  just completed my final test.

1) Sustainer's nozzle thinly coated with pyrogen including throat and
exposed grain (did not use pyrogen soaked thread)
2) Nozzle-blocker positioned to prevent direct flow of booster's
blow-through particles into the sustainer's nozzle-throat.
3) Vent holes to bypass blow-through gasses and prevent over-pressure
(gap-staging model)
4) Booster

Everything worked.  Booster blow-through particles impacted the pyrogen on
the outside rim of the sustainer nozzle igniting it, which then burned
through into the throat and ignited the grain.  So it looks like it is not
necessary to mess around with either a string-based fuse or BP.  Just the
thin coating is pyrogen is enough, at least based on this one test.  :^)

BTW, I used Magnelite pyrogen.

Signature

...The Bit Eimer     NAR 84054
"My goal in life is to be the kind of person my cat thinks he is"
[remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me]
--------------------------------------------------------------

> Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> Has anyone experience with this technique?  Think it worth trying or is
> there an obvious flaw in my reasoning?
Fred Shecter - 26 Oct 2004 14:58 GMT
I've been too busy to chime in, but here is what I did late last year to use up my
remaining A10-0T motors as they approached the de-certification date.

When staged A10-0T to A10-3T (or if more than 2 stages, A10-0T to A10-0T, etc.) they
worked every time as-is. Large nozzle and large exposed propellant surface are always
good. That's why Estes A8-5 and B4-6 (now long gone) motors worked great in upper stages.
Tiny nozzles do not help ignition. Estes B6 and C6 motors *love* to "pop & stop".

So, when I tried to stage my A10-0T to A3-4T motors or 1/2A3-4T motors, they did not
ignite 80% of the time. This is with direct contact and cellophane tape holding them
together AND scraping the propellant surface of the upper motor to remove surface dust.
Reason: tiny upper nozzle presents too small a target AND large A10-0T booster nozzle
allows gas out the back end.

Solution: I painted a thin layer of magnelite pyrogen onto the entire outer nozzle surface
of the tiny nozzled upper stage motors and also down the nozzle throat to the propellant.
Then they worked 90% of the time. I often had a half-second ignition delay.

I have never done this with larger motors. My success rate with staging 18mm and larger
motors is near 100%. I clean the nozzles, I cellophane tape the motors together and I try
to use larger nozzles in the upper stages. Quest motors are now my upper stage motor of
choice. A Quest C6-5 has plenty of delay time. Ditto the A6-4 for lower altitude flights.

All the teams I helped with TARC had great success with all combinations of 24 mm motors -
even the semi-tiny nozzled C11 and E9 motors. There were a few early ignition failures as
they learned how to do the gap staging (often with clustering). Lots of coupler
engagement. Vent holes.

As for the attempts to use a "wick": Back in the 1970's I attempted to use Jetex wick and
also Sure Shot wicks (when they were fresh and not 30 year old crumbling fossils). Jetex
never worked for me in upper stages. The wick would 'snuff out' as it attempted to pass
whatever was holding it in the nozzle (tape, wadding ball, balsa stick...).  The Sure Shot
would also snuff out if secured with a wadding ball, but not if held with tape. Of course,
with tape, it's not really "secured" since it can fall out as the tape is burned.
Conclusion: blockages like wadding balls and sticks will suck the heat energy out of the
burning wick/fuse and stop it from burning. They obviously don't need oxygen to burn, but
they can be snuffed.

Thermalite would probably be a lot harder (or impossible) to snuff out. But it can't be
used in a "Model Rocket".

-Fred Shecter NAR 20117

Signature

"""Remove "zorch" from address (2 places) to reply.

> OK,  just completed my final test.
>
[quoted text clipped - 33 lines]
> > Has anyone experience with this technique?  Think it worth trying or is
> > there an obvious flaw in my reasoning?
Tweak - 26 Oct 2004 15:20 GMT
> Solution: I painted a thin layer of magnelite pyrogen onto the entire outer nozzle surface
> of the tiny nozzled upper stage motors and also down the nozzle throat to the propellant.
> Then they worked 90% of the time. I often had a half-second ignition delay.

How is this not a motor modification?

If I discuss adding extra BP to the ejection end of an Estes motor when
I need a more energetic ejection charge, the RMR branch of Safety Code
and Regulatory Enforcement Whiners (SCREW) show up in force.  But drill,
screw, paint, fold, spindle, mutilate, etc. on the business end and not
a peep?

Signature

Tweak

David Weinshenker - 26 Oct 2004 15:28 GMT
> > Solution: I painted a thin layer of magnelite pyrogen onto the entire outer nozzle surface
> > of the tiny nozzled upper stage motors and also down the nozzle throat to the propellant.
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> I need a more energetic ejection charge, the RMR branch of Safety Code
> and Regulatory Enforcement Whiners (SCREW) show up in force.

LOL!

> But drill,
> screw, paint, fold, spindle, mutilate, etc. on the business end and not
> a peep?

Heck, you can even put an igniter in there to set fire to it...

-dave w
Tweak - 26 Oct 2004 15:33 GMT
> > > Solution: I painted a thin layer of magnelite pyrogen onto the entire outer nozzle surface
> > > of the tiny nozzled upper stage motors and also down the nozzle throat to the propellant.
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
> -dave w

SCREW!  SCREW!  Got another one!
Signature

Tweak

Jerry Irvine - 26 Oct 2004 15:55 GMT
> > Solution: I painted a thin layer of magnelite pyrogen onto the entire outer
> > nozzle surface
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> screw, paint, fold, spindle, mutilate, etc. on the business end and not
> a peep?

This should be in the FAQ (and in the definitions section).

Signature

Jerry Irvine, Box 1242, Claremont, California 91711 USA
Opinion, the whole thing. <mail to:01rocket@gte.net>
Please bring common sense back to rocketry administration.
Produce then publish.  http://www.usrockets.com
Ebay auction deals and specials. http://tinyurl.com/6wlp8

bit eimer - 26 Oct 2004 15:25 GMT
Fred,

Thanks for the confirmation that this approach indeed enhances sustainer
ignition.  The half second delay you mention was exactly what I saw in my
test.  The booster blew through, then the magnelite flashed (but slow enough
that one could identify what was happening), then the sustainer ignited.

Signature

...The Bit Eimer     NAR 84054
"My goal in life is to be the kind of person my cat thinks he is"
[remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me]
--------------------------------------------------------------

> I've been too busy to chime in, but here is what I did late last year to
> use up my
[quoted text clipped - 109 lines]
>> > Has anyone experience with this technique?  Think it worth trying or is
>> > there an obvious flaw in my reasoning?
Bob Kaplow - 26 Oct 2004 19:21 GMT
> Thermalite would probably be a lot harder (or impossible) to snuff out. But it can't be
> used in a "Model Rocket".

Says who? Seems that FSI did just that for decades. As did many of the early
composite motor vendors.

    Bob Kaplow    NAR # 18L    TRA # "Impeach the TRA BoD"
        >>> To reply, remove the TRABoD! <<<
Kaplow Klips & Baffle:    http://nira-rocketry.org/LeadingEdge/Phantom4000.pdf
   www.encompasserve.org/~kaplow_r/    www.nira-rocketry.org    www.nar.org

    26-October, 2001: A day that will live in infamy
    Support Freedom: http://www.indefenseoffreedom.org/

    Voting for "the lesser of two evils" is still voting for evil.
Dave Grayvis - 26 Oct 2004 19:25 GMT
>>Thermalite would probably be a lot harder (or impossible) to snuff out. But it can't be
>>used in a "Model Rocket".
>
> Says who? Seems that FSI did just that for decades. As did many of the early
> composite motor vendors.

Thermalite is essentially flash powder on a wire.
M.Daughtry - 26 Oct 2004 22:22 GMT
Personally, I just pour a bit of 4F black powder on the top of the booster
motor which causes more burning particles to flow up to the sustainer motor.
Haven't had a sustainer fail to light using this method.

--
Best regards,
Mark Daughtry, SR
Tweak - 27 Oct 2004 13:51 GMT
> Personally, I just pour a bit of 4F black powder on the top of the booster
> motor which causes more burning particles to flow up to the sustainer motor.
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> Best regards,
> Mark Daughtry, SR

I seem to recall reading somewhere that the particles of BP where too
small to enhance sustainer ignition.

Anyone else?

Or maybe I am just loopy.
Signature

Tweak

M.Daughtry - 27 Oct 2004 19:03 GMT
Haven't personally had that problem. I guess I could use 2F or 3F (Since I
use all 3 grades in my other hobby of shooting muzzleloaders).

--
Best regards,
Mark Daughtry, SR
It takes "BALLS" to shoot a muzzleloader.

> > Personally, I just pour a bit of 4F black powder on the top of the booster
> > motor which causes more burning particles to flow up to the sustainer motor.
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> --
> Tweak
Bob Kaplow - 28 Oct 2004 04:57 GMT
> Thermalite is essentially flash powder on a wire.

Wrong. Thermalite is essentially Thermite on a wire. With more wires and
some cloth wrapped around it.

thermite: mixture of powdered or granular aluminum metal and powdered iron
oxide [thus the rust-like color - rgk]. When ignited it gives off large
amounts of heat. The reaction is very exothermic; temperatures above 2,500°C
(4,500°F) are often reached.

    Bob Kaplow    NAR # 18L    TRA # "Impeach the TRA BoD"
        >>> To reply, remove the TRABoD! <<<
Kaplow Klips & Baffle:    http://nira-rocketry.org/LeadingEdge/Phantom4000.pdf
   www.encompasserve.org/~kaplow_r/    www.nira-rocketry.org    www.nar.org

    26-October, 2001: A day that will live in infamy
    Support Freedom: http://www.indefenseoffreedom.org/

    Voting for "the lesser of two evils" is still voting for evil.
Jerry Irvine - 28 Oct 2004 15:50 GMT
> > Thermalite is essentially flash powder on a wire.
>
> Wrong.

He is wrong about everything.

> Thermalite is essentially Thermite on a wire. With more wires and
> some cloth wrapped around it.
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>
>     Voting for "the lesser of two evils" is still voting for evil.

Signature

Jerry Irvine, Box 1242, Claremont, California 91711 USA
Opinion, the whole thing. <mail to:01rocket@gte.net>
Please bring common sense back to rocketry administration.
Produce then publish.  http://www.usrockets.com
Ebay auction deals and specials. http://tinyurl.com/6wlp8

Fred Shecter - 28 Oct 2004 13:49 GMT
I've been too busy to chime in, but here is what I did late last year
to use up my
remaining A10-0T motors as they approached the de-certification date.

When staged A10-0T to A10-3T (or if more than 2 stages, A10-0T to
A10-0T, etc.) they
worked every time as-is. Large nozzle and large exposed propellant
surface are always
good. That's why Estes A8-5 and B4-6 (now long gone) motors worked
great in upper stages.
Tiny nozzles do not help ignition. Estes B6 and C6 motors *love* to
"pop & stop".

So, when I tried to stage my A10-0T to A3-4T motors or 1/2A3-4T
motors, they did not
ignite 80% of the time. This is with direct contact and cellophane
tape holding them
together AND scraping the propellant surface of the upper motor to
remove surface dust.
Reason: tiny upper nozzle presents too small a target AND large A10-0T
booster nozzle
allows gas out the back end.

Solution: I painted a thin layer of magnelite pyrogen onto the entire
outer nozzle surface
of the tiny nozzled upper stage motors and also down the nozzle throat
to the propellant.
Then they worked 90% of the time. I often had a half-second ignition
delay.

I have never done this with larger motors. My success rate with
staging 18mm and larger
motors is near 100%. I clean the nozzles, I cellophane tape the motors
together and I try
to use larger nozzles in the upper stages. Quest motors are now my
upper stage motor of
choice. A Quest C6-5 has plenty of delay time. Ditto the A6-4 for
lower altitude flights.

All the teams I helped with TARC had great success with all
combinations of 24 mm motors -
even the semi-tiny nozzled C11 and E9 motors. There were a few early
ignition failures as
they learned how to do the gap staging (often with clustering). Lots
of coupler
engagement. Vent holes.

As for the attempts to use a "wick": Back in the 1970's I attempted to
use Jetex wick and
also Sure Shot wicks (when they were fresh and not 30 year old
crumbling fossils). Jetex
never worked for me in upper stages. The wick would 'snuff out' as it
attempted to pass
whatever was holding it in the nozzle (tape, wadding ball, balsa
stick...).  The Sure Shot
would also snuff out if secured with a wadding ball, but not if held
with tape. Of course,
with tape, it's not really "secured" since it can fall out as the tape
is burned.
Conclusion: blockages like wadding balls and sticks will suck the heat
energy out of the
burning wick/fuse and stop it from burning. They obviously don't need
oxygen to burn, but
they can be snuffed.

Thermalite would probably be a lot harder (or impossible) to snuff
out. But it can't be
used in a "Model Rocket".

-Fred Shecter NAR 20117

> OK,  just completed my final test.
>
[quoted text clipped - 33 lines]
> > Has anyone experience with this technique?  Think it worth trying or is
> > there an obvious flaw in my reasoning?
RayDunakin - 26 Oct 2004 02:09 GMT
Bit wrote:
<< I had scraped the sustainer motor grain to assure that there was no clay
blocking the nozzle, but to no avail.
After a search of rmr, I see that some people have used a wire dipped in
pyrogen to ignite upper stages, but I was thinking that simply painting pyrogen
up into the sustainer nozzle might work just as well without having the issue
of securing such an igniter in place. >>

Pyrogen is sometimes applied to the core of the upper grain on a composite
motor to ensure ignition.

If you're talking about BP motors, no one that I know of does that.
Fred Shecter - 26 Oct 2004 19:02 GMT
I've been too busy to chime in, but here is what I did late last year
to use up my
remaining A10-0T motors as they approached the de-certification date.

When staged A10-0T to A10-3T (or if more than 2 stages, A10-0T to
A10-0T, etc.) they
worked every time as-is. Large nozzle and large exposed propellant
surface are always
good. That's why Estes A8-5 and B4-6 (now long gone) motors worked
great in upper stages.
Tiny nozzles do not help ignition. Estes B6 and C6 motors *love* to
"pop & stop".

So, when I tried to stage my A10-0T to A3-4T motors or 1/2A3-4T
motors, they did not
ignite 80% of the time. This is with direct contact and cellophane
tape holding them
together AND scraping the propellant surface of the upper motor to
remove surface dust.
Reason: tiny upper nozzle presents too small a target AND large A10-0T
booster nozzle
allows gas out the back end.

Solution: I painted a thin layer of magnelite pyrogen onto the entire
outer nozzle surface
of the tiny nozzled upper stage motors and also down the nozzle throat
to the propellant.
Then they worked 90% of the time. I often had a half-second ignition
delay.

I have never done this with larger motors. My success rate with
staging 18mm and larger
motors is near 100%. I clean the nozzles, I cellophane tape the motors
together and I try
to use larger nozzles in the upper stages. Quest motors are now my
upper stage motor of
choice. A Quest C6-5 has plenty of delay time. Ditto the A6-4 for
lower altitude flights.

All the teams I helped with TARC had great success with all
combinations of 24 mm motors -
even the semi-tiny nozzled C11 and E9 motors. There were a few early
ignition failures as
they learned how to do the gap staging (often with clustering). Lots
of coupler
engagement. Vent holes.

As for the attempts to use a "wick": Back in the 1970's I attempted to
use Jetex wick and
also Sure Shot wicks (when they were fresh and not 30 year old
crumbling fossils). Jetex
never worked for me in upper stages. The wick would 'snuff out' as it
attempted to pass
whatever was holding it in the nozzle (tape, wadding ball, balsa
stick...).  The Sure Shot
would also snuff out if secured with a wadding ball, but not if held
with tape. Of course,
with tape, it's not really "secured" since it can fall out as the tape
is burned.
Conclusion: blockages like wadding balls and sticks will suck the heat
energy out of the
burning wick/fuse and stop it from burning. They obviously don't need
oxygen to burn, but
they can be snuffed.

Thermalite would probably be a lot harder (or impossible) to snuff
out. But it can't be
used in a "Model Rocket".

-Fred Shecter NAR 20117

> Bit wrote:
> << I had scraped the sustainer motor grain to assure that there was no clay
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
> If you're talking about BP motors, no one that I know of does that.
Ken Holloway - 26 Oct 2004 17:45 GMT
I've reviewed your posts and have been considering your problem.  I
have a couple of ideas you might want to try.

First, using any type of Pyrogen painted on the nozzel would probably
be a bad idea.  The ignition temperature of black powder is lower than
any pyrogen I'm familiar with.  That being said you might be able to
use black powder to help insure ignition.

Try painting the nozzel of a BP motor with nitrate, not butrate, model
airplane dope and immediately pouring 4FG black powder into the
nozzel.  Once the dope has dried pour the excess powder out of the
nozzel.  The nozzel's entire surface should now be covered with a thin
coating of black powder.  This powder should act as a "powder trail"
to insure ignition of the sustainer motor upon burn through of the
booster motor.

Secondly you could try getting some "flash paper" from a magic shop.
This is thin tissue paper soaked in potassium nitrate so it will
"flash" or burn rapidly when it encounters any hot spark.  I'd try
pouring a small amount of 4FG black powder into the sustainer motor's
nozzel then sealing the nozzel with a small disk of flash paper glued
to the rim of the motor.  When the booster motor burns through the hot
sparks will ignite the flash paper which in turn will ignite the 4FG
powder.  This should result in a "flash in the pan" style ignition
event.

Finally you might take a tip from the magician's flash paper and try
soaking your cotton string in a strong potassium nitrate (saltpeter)
solution.  This should improve the buring characteristics of the
string.  You might be able to get a small amount of potassium nitrate
from a local drug store.  My local drugstore used to carry it along
with powdered sulfur (used for fumigating houses) when I was a kid.

Ken Holloway, NAR #78336, L-II
bit eimer - 27 Oct 2004 01:48 GMT
Those are all pretty interesting ideas, though perhaps more complicated than
that for which I was hoping.  I'm keeping your post for future
"bag-of-tricks" value. :^)

About the ignition temperature question:  I think the sustainer ignition
failure was more likely due to the unfortunate lack of blow-through
particles entering the sustainer nozzle, rather than due to low temperature
of said particles.   The nozzle, being that of a C6-5, is quite small at
about 3mm diameter.  So, while its not quite as difficult as Luke's shot at
the Death Star, it still takes some luck to get a good hit.

It seems a fair assumption that the blow-through particles are hot enough to
ignite pyrogen given that in my last test the entire sustainer nozzle,
throat, and exposed grain were covered with pyrogen, and in order for the
sustainer to ignite (which it did), the pyrogen had to burn first.

As such, it appears to me that the lowest hanging fruit is increasing the
probably of a particle impacting an ignitable surface, just as your
nitrate/BP or flash paper/BP approach would do.  Painting pyrogen, I think,
achieves that same effect, but with less effort, complexity, mess, and
hassle.

Fred mentions elsewhere in the thread that he has used this technique
successfully with A3-4Ts.  The improvement in ignitable area for an A3-4T
would be a factor of 11.  If we say that A is the probability of a sustainer
ignition failure due to no burn-through particle hitting the throat of the
sustainer, then A^11 would be the probability of no particle hitting any
part of the nozzle.  Fred says his failure rate prior to coating he nozzle
with pyrogen was about 80%, so A = 0.8 and A^11 = 0.086.   This agrees
surprizingly well with his estimate that his success rate after pyrogen
painting was about 90%.

For the C6-5 that I used the area increase is a factor of 18, so one should
expect an success-rate improvement substantially better than even Fred was
for his A3-4Ts.

PS: Jerry - I think THIS should be in the FAQ.  ;^)

Signature

...The Bit Eimer     NAR 84054
"My goal in life is to be the kind of person my cat thinks he is"
[remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me]
--------------------------------------------------------------

> I've reviewed your posts and have been considering your problem.  I
> have a couple of ideas you might want to try.
[quoted text clipped - 30 lines]
>
> Ken Holloway, NAR #78336, L-II
Jerry Irvine - 27 Oct 2004 01:56 GMT
> PS: Jerry - I think THIS should be in the FAQ.  ;^)

THIS should be in the FAQ

is the search string, so you just made it available for some vague
future FAQ.

But now you also know the key to looking for past gems.

Signature

Jerry Irvine, Box 1242, Claremont, California 91711 USA
Opinion, the whole thing. <mail to:01rocket@gte.net>
Please bring common sense back to rocketry administration.
Produce then publish.  http://www.usrockets.com
Ebay auction deals and specials. http://tinyurl.com/6wlp8

Zak Orion - 31 Oct 2004 15:46 GMT
.

> But now you also know the key to looking for past gems.

I kind of figured that out a few months ago.  In fact. I was going to
collect some of the gems and see if I could make a single text file that
would fill a CD.
 
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