[FFT] Pyrogened sustainers?
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bit eimer - 25 Oct 2004 16:37 GMT Hi all,
HGS this weekend was great - except for my own launches. :^( Gila Monster was spectacular.
My Big Bert (a gap-staged version of Big Bertha) failed to ignite the sustainer and desert-darted with 7" of BT crunch (luckily, no damage to the desert floor).
I had scraped the sustainer motor grain to assure that there was no clay blocking the nozzle, but to no avail.
After a search of rmr, I see that some people have used a wire dipped in pyrogen to ignite upper stages, but I was thinking that simply painting pyrogen up into the sustainer nozzle might work just as well without having the issue of securing such an igniter in place.
Has anyone experience with this technique? Think it worth trying or is there an obvious flaw in my reasoning?
 Signature ...The Bit Eimer NAR 84054 "My goal in life is to be the kind of person my cat thinks he is" [remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me] --------------------------------------------------------------
Doug Sams - 25 Oct 2004 17:51 GMT > I had scraped the sustainer motor grain to assure that there was no clay > blocking the nozzle, but to no avail. I've had that happen a couple times, too. Most recently with a C11 sustainer.
> After a search of rmr, I see that some people have used a wire dipped in > pyrogen to ignite upper stages, That's basically what the Apogee staging ignitors were. I have some but have never tried them.
> but I was thinking that simply painting pyrogen up into the sustainer > nozzle might work just as well without having the issue of securing > such an igniter in place. I want to try just painting it, too. The key is painting the back end of the motor so that if a hot chunk missles the hold but hits around it, the pyrogen should still ignite.
The other thing I wanted to try was using fine cotton thread, dipping it in the pyrogen, then inserting it into the sustainer motor to dry. That should bond it in place. Also, I envisioned keeping the thread to one side of the nozzle to minimize obstructing it, and maybe making a coil of thread around the nozzle to act as a "catcher's mitt" for the hot chunks.
http://home.flash.net/~samily/stuff/stage-ignitor.pdf
My 2 cents.
Doug
bit eimer - 25 Oct 2004 19:08 GMT <snip>
>> but I was thinking that simply painting pyrogen up into the sustainer >> nozzle might work just as well without having the issue of securing [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > My 2 cents. I like your thread concept, especially letting it dry in place. The coil part might be kind of messy to implement, but it you just brought the thread out straight to the side of the motor and then painted the entire surface of the nozzle (not inside) with pyrogen, you'd have an even-better chance of ignition from non-optimally aimed sparks.
Thinking of setting up a test for this: Two engines in gap-staging configuration, sustainer ignition enhancer as above, center of sustainer nozzle blocked with something to simulate the failure of booster blow-through reaching the sustainer grain. Suggestions? especially on how to block the nozzle-center without interfered with the burn behavior of the pyrogened thread?
 Signature ...The Bit Eimer NAR 84054 "My goal in life is to be the kind of person my cat thinks he is" [remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me] --------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Kaplow - 25 Oct 2004 19:29 GMT > I like your thread concept, especially letting it dry in place. The coil > part might be kind of messy to implement, but it you just brought the thread > out straight to the side of the motor and then painted the entire surface of > the nozzle (not inside) with pyrogen, you'd have an even-better chance of > ignition from non-optimally aimed sparks. Back in the old days, we'd stick a small SureShot in the nozzle to insure ignition.
Bob Kaplow NAR # 18L TRA # "Impeach the TRA BoD" >>> To reply, remove the TRABoD! <<< Kaplow Klips & Baffle: http://nira-rocketry.org/LeadingEdge/Phantom4000.pdf www.encompasserve.org/~kaplow_r/ www.nira-rocketry.org www.nar.org
26-October, 2001: A day that will live in infamy Support Freedom: http://www.indefenseoffreedom.org/
Voting for "the lesser of two evils" is still voting for evil.
Doug Sams - 25 Oct 2004 19:47 GMT > Suggestions? especially on how to block the nozzle-center > without interfered with the burn behavior of the pyrogened > thread? Use a spent motor case for the sustainer - no need to use up any more good motors than necessary. Saw off the case just above the remaining nozzle clay.
Insert the pyrogened thread thru the nozzle and put a short piece of wooden dowel in to hold the drying thread and block the opening.
When the test is run, if the pyrogen is successfully lit, the thread should burn thru to the sawn end of the motor and be visible. Eh??
Doug
bit eimer - 25 Oct 2004 20:01 GMT <snip>
> Use a spent motor case for the sustainer - no need to use up > any more good motors than necessary. Saw off the case just [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > thread should burn thru to the sawn end of the motor and > be visible. Eh?? great ideas - you don't think the dowel will cut off the flame?
Also, found this on TRF:
"I fill the nozzle with 4FG BP, and then cap it off with very thin Magnelite pyrogen. I use a toothpick and let it drip on the nozzle. Then use a finger to press it down. I use this on small throat BP motors. I have also used it when staging one motor to several motors." posted by n3tjm
I suppose one could use Pyrodex-P instead of the 4F BP, if one doesn't have an antique firearm to use as a "cover". Now I just have to find a local Pyrodex-P source (Phoenix) to be able to test this approach too.
 Signature ...The Bit Eimer NAR 84054 "My goal in life is to be the kind of person my cat thinks he is" [remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me] --------------------------------------------------------------
Doug Sams - 25 Oct 2004 20:29 GMT > great ideas - you don't think the dowel will cut off the flame? It shouldn't. The pyrogen has its own oxidizer, so it ought to keep burning past the "pinch".
> Also, found this on TRF: > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > an antique firearm to use as a "cover". Now I just have to find a local > Pyrodex-P source (Phoenix) to be able to test this approach too. We discussed this a couple years ago at DARS with one of our sharpest gurus. My fear was that the BP would just blow the stages apart without lighting the upper :) But one test is worth a thousand expert opinions :)
Doug
bit eimer - 25 Oct 2004 21:35 GMT Well, I just did the test.
Surprisingly, while the pyrodex on the nozzle surface flashed real nice, the thread did NOT burn past the stick of balsa I had stuffed in the nozzle. So the test was inconclusive. If the stick hadn't been there, the thread probably would have burned into the nozzle to start the sustainer.
For the next test, I'm thinking a small circle of masking tape over the nozzle throat will block the burn through particles but not pinch off the thread flame.
 Signature ...The Bit Eimer NAR 84054 "My goal in life is to be the kind of person my cat thinks he is" [remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me] --------------------------------------------------------------
>> great ideas - you don't think the dowel will cut off the flame? > [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > > Doug bit eimer - 25 Oct 2004 21:57 GMT Tried the second test using masking tape to block the nozzle. Everthing fried so well that I don't know if the masking tape block the initial burn through of not.
Next test: small plate, preferably metal to block the nozzel.
 Signature ...The Bit Eimer NAR 84054 "My goal in life is to be the kind of person my cat thinks he is" [remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me] --------------------------------------------------------------
> Well, I just did the test. > [quoted text clipped - 35 lines] >> >> Doug bit eimer - 25 Oct 2004 22:33 GMT Tried the third test. Used a very small screw with a small fiber washer to block the nozzle. No pressure on the thread at all.
Interestinger and interestinger. Results were same as the first test - pyrogen on the surface of the nozzle flashed but thread did not burn into the nozzle past the fiber washer.
So now I'm stuck. I can't prove the thread method really enhances the ignition because I have no way to block the nozzle without extinguishing the thread.
But hey Doug, at least I only burned up three engines (thanks to your suggestion) and not 6!
Now I'm back to the original idea: why not just paint the entire nozzle surface, including throat, with pyrogen (perhaps diluted). Has this been tried? Did it block the nozzle?
 Signature ...The Bit Eimer NAR 84054 "My goal in life is to be the kind of person my cat thinks he is" [remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me] --------------------------------------------------------------
> Tried the second test using masking tape to block the nozzle. Everthing > fried so well that I don't know if the masking tape block the initial burn [quoted text clipped - 41 lines] >>> >>> Doug Doug Sams - 25 Oct 2004 22:45 GMT > So now I'm stuck. I can't prove the thread method really enhances the > ignition because I have no way to block the nozzle without extinguishing the > thread. Had the thread been dipped in pyrogen?
> But hey Doug, at least I only burned up three engines (thanks to your > suggestion) and not 6! Sometimes I can be helpful :)
Consider this: Use a needle to hold a short length of dowel in front of the nozzle.
BTW, kudos to you for making these efforts. It is appreciated.
Doug
bit eimer - 25 Oct 2004 23:24 GMT Thread was dipped in pyrogen.
In the meantime, I thought I found the problem: this was thread I snagged from my wife's sewing basket - thought it was cotton, but NO, its polyester.
So I unraveled some generic cotton twine, dipped a strand, and tested that it would burn past the fiber washer using just a match to light i (which it did).
Next, I tried the same with the polyester thread thinking it would stop. But no, it burned right past the washer too. Argh.
I wonder if the slight over-pressure from booster burn-through is clamping the washer down on the thread and pinching off the flame.
Your needling idea would address that. Now to implement...
So I cut another short section of spent engine along with a matching length of 1/4" dowel and pinned the dowel in place with a finishing nail. Trimmed off the nail ends, taped this new nozzle-blocker to the end of my pseudo-sustainer.
Test was successful.
BUT, my test jig allows gasses to vent all the way through the pseudo-sustainer, so it could be that particles are flowing around the nozzle-blocker. So next is to test it with a real sustainer... maybe tomorrow.
 Signature ...The Bit Eimer NAR 84054 "My goal in life is to be the kind of person my cat thinks he is" [remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me] --------------------------------------------------------------
>> So now I'm stuck. I can't prove the thread method really enhances the >> ignition because I have no way to block the nozzle without extinguishing [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > Doug David - 25 Oct 2004 23:47 GMT I think there is a very good chance that the BP in the motor has a lower ignition point than the pyrogen, so you'd actually be making it worse. Of course, you could always do some testing with Bert.
-- David
> Hi all, > [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > Has anyone experience with this technique? Think it worth trying or is > there an obvious flaw in my reasoning? bit eimer - 25 Oct 2004 23:58 GMT I'm pretty sure the failure had less to do with temperature of gasses in the chamber and more to do with the statistical probability of not getting glowing "blow-through" particles from the booster actually entering the sustainer nozzle.
My thought was: by painting the nozzle surface with pyrogen, the chance of some blow-through particles impacting an ignitable surface would be greatly increasing. Once any part of the pyrogen started, it would burn right into the nozzle throat and ignite the sustainer grain.
The tests I've done so far have shown no problem with the booster blow-through igniting the pyrogen, so it seems the ignition temp is not problematic, per se.
 Signature ...The Bit Eimer NAR 84054 "My goal in life is to be the kind of person my cat thinks he is" [remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me] --------------------------------------------------------------
>I think there is a very good chance that the BP in the motor has a lower >ignition point than the pyrogen, so you'd actually be making it worse. Of [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] >> Has anyone experience with this technique? Think it worth trying or is >> there an obvious flaw in my reasoning? bit eimer - 26 Oct 2004 00:36 GMT OK, just completed my final test.
1) Sustainer's nozzle thinly coated with pyrogen including throat and exposed grain (did not use pyrogen soaked thread) 2) Nozzle-blocker positioned to prevent direct flow of booster's blow-through particles into the sustainer's nozzle-throat. 3) Vent holes to bypass blow-through gasses and prevent over-pressure (gap-staging model) 4) Booster
Everything worked. Booster blow-through particles impacted the pyrogen on the outside rim of the sustainer nozzle igniting it, which then burned through into the throat and ignited the grain. So it looks like it is not necessary to mess around with either a string-based fuse or BP. Just the thin coating is pyrogen is enough, at least based on this one test. :^)
BTW, I used Magnelite pyrogen.
 Signature ...The Bit Eimer NAR 84054 "My goal in life is to be the kind of person my cat thinks he is" [remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me] --------------------------------------------------------------
> Hi all, > [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > Has anyone experience with this technique? Think it worth trying or is > there an obvious flaw in my reasoning? Fred Shecter - 26 Oct 2004 14:58 GMT I've been too busy to chime in, but here is what I did late last year to use up my remaining A10-0T motors as they approached the de-certification date.
When staged A10-0T to A10-3T (or if more than 2 stages, A10-0T to A10-0T, etc.) they worked every time as-is. Large nozzle and large exposed propellant surface are always good. That's why Estes A8-5 and B4-6 (now long gone) motors worked great in upper stages. Tiny nozzles do not help ignition. Estes B6 and C6 motors *love* to "pop & stop".
So, when I tried to stage my A10-0T to A3-4T motors or 1/2A3-4T motors, they did not ignite 80% of the time. This is with direct contact and cellophane tape holding them together AND scraping the propellant surface of the upper motor to remove surface dust. Reason: tiny upper nozzle presents too small a target AND large A10-0T booster nozzle allows gas out the back end.
Solution: I painted a thin layer of magnelite pyrogen onto the entire outer nozzle surface of the tiny nozzled upper stage motors and also down the nozzle throat to the propellant. Then they worked 90% of the time. I often had a half-second ignition delay.
I have never done this with larger motors. My success rate with staging 18mm and larger motors is near 100%. I clean the nozzles, I cellophane tape the motors together and I try to use larger nozzles in the upper stages. Quest motors are now my upper stage motor of choice. A Quest C6-5 has plenty of delay time. Ditto the A6-4 for lower altitude flights.
All the teams I helped with TARC had great success with all combinations of 24 mm motors - even the semi-tiny nozzled C11 and E9 motors. There were a few early ignition failures as they learned how to do the gap staging (often with clustering). Lots of coupler engagement. Vent holes.
As for the attempts to use a "wick": Back in the 1970's I attempted to use Jetex wick and also Sure Shot wicks (when they were fresh and not 30 year old crumbling fossils). Jetex never worked for me in upper stages. The wick would 'snuff out' as it attempted to pass whatever was holding it in the nozzle (tape, wadding ball, balsa stick...). The Sure Shot would also snuff out if secured with a wadding ball, but not if held with tape. Of course, with tape, it's not really "secured" since it can fall out as the tape is burned. Conclusion: blockages like wadding balls and sticks will suck the heat energy out of the burning wick/fuse and stop it from burning. They obviously don't need oxygen to burn, but they can be snuffed.
Thermalite would probably be a lot harder (or impossible) to snuff out. But it can't be used in a "Model Rocket".
-Fred Shecter NAR 20117
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> OK, just completed my final test. > [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] > > Has anyone experience with this technique? Think it worth trying or is > > there an obvious flaw in my reasoning? Tweak - 26 Oct 2004 15:20 GMT > Solution: I painted a thin layer of magnelite pyrogen onto the entire outer nozzle surface > of the tiny nozzled upper stage motors and also down the nozzle throat to the propellant. > Then they worked 90% of the time. I often had a half-second ignition delay. How is this not a motor modification?
If I discuss adding extra BP to the ejection end of an Estes motor when I need a more energetic ejection charge, the RMR branch of Safety Code and Regulatory Enforcement Whiners (SCREW) show up in force. But drill, screw, paint, fold, spindle, mutilate, etc. on the business end and not a peep?
 Signature Tweak
David Weinshenker - 26 Oct 2004 15:28 GMT > > Solution: I painted a thin layer of magnelite pyrogen onto the entire outer nozzle surface > > of the tiny nozzled upper stage motors and also down the nozzle throat to the propellant. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > I need a more energetic ejection charge, the RMR branch of Safety Code > and Regulatory Enforcement Whiners (SCREW) show up in force. LOL!
> But drill, > screw, paint, fold, spindle, mutilate, etc. on the business end and not > a peep? Heck, you can even put an igniter in there to set fire to it...
-dave w
Tweak - 26 Oct 2004 15:33 GMT > > > Solution: I painted a thin layer of magnelite pyrogen onto the entire outer nozzle surface > > > of the tiny nozzled upper stage motors and also down the nozzle throat to the propellant. [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > > -dave w SCREW! SCREW! Got another one!
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Jerry Irvine - 26 Oct 2004 15:55 GMT > > Solution: I painted a thin layer of magnelite pyrogen onto the entire outer > > nozzle surface [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > screw, paint, fold, spindle, mutilate, etc. on the business end and not > a peep? This should be in the FAQ (and in the definitions section).
 Signature Jerry Irvine, Box 1242, Claremont, California 91711 USA Opinion, the whole thing. <mail to:01rocket@gte.net> Please bring common sense back to rocketry administration. Produce then publish. http://www.usrockets.com Ebay auction deals and specials. http://tinyurl.com/6wlp8
bit eimer - 26 Oct 2004 15:25 GMT Fred,
Thanks for the confirmation that this approach indeed enhances sustainer ignition. The half second delay you mention was exactly what I saw in my test. The booster blew through, then the magnelite flashed (but slow enough that one could identify what was happening), then the sustainer ignited.
 Signature ...The Bit Eimer NAR 84054 "My goal in life is to be the kind of person my cat thinks he is" [remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me] --------------------------------------------------------------
> I've been too busy to chime in, but here is what I did late last year to > use up my [quoted text clipped - 109 lines] >> > Has anyone experience with this technique? Think it worth trying or is >> > there an obvious flaw in my reasoning? Bob Kaplow - 26 Oct 2004 19:21 GMT > Thermalite would probably be a lot harder (or impossible) to snuff out. But it can't be > used in a "Model Rocket". Says who? Seems that FSI did just that for decades. As did many of the early composite motor vendors.
Bob Kaplow NAR # 18L TRA # "Impeach the TRA BoD" >>> To reply, remove the TRABoD! <<< Kaplow Klips & Baffle: http://nira-rocketry.org/LeadingEdge/Phantom4000.pdf www.encompasserve.org/~kaplow_r/ www.nira-rocketry.org www.nar.org
26-October, 2001: A day that will live in infamy Support Freedom: http://www.indefenseoffreedom.org/
Voting for "the lesser of two evils" is still voting for evil.
Dave Grayvis - 26 Oct 2004 19:25 GMT >>Thermalite would probably be a lot harder (or impossible) to snuff out. But it can't be >>used in a "Model Rocket". > > Says who? Seems that FSI did just that for decades. As did many of the early > composite motor vendors. Thermalite is essentially flash powder on a wire.
M.Daughtry - 26 Oct 2004 22:22 GMT Personally, I just pour a bit of 4F black powder on the top of the booster motor which causes more burning particles to flow up to the sustainer motor. Haven't had a sustainer fail to light using this method.
-- Best regards, Mark Daughtry, SR
Tweak - 27 Oct 2004 13:51 GMT > Personally, I just pour a bit of 4F black powder on the top of the booster > motor which causes more burning particles to flow up to the sustainer motor. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > Best regards, > Mark Daughtry, SR I seem to recall reading somewhere that the particles of BP where too small to enhance sustainer ignition.
Anyone else?
Or maybe I am just loopy.
 Signature Tweak
M.Daughtry - 27 Oct 2004 19:03 GMT Haven't personally had that problem. I guess I could use 2F or 3F (Since I use all 3 grades in my other hobby of shooting muzzleloaders).
-- Best regards, Mark Daughtry, SR It takes "BALLS" to shoot a muzzleloader.
> > Personally, I just pour a bit of 4F black powder on the top of the booster > > motor which causes more burning particles to flow up to the sustainer motor. [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > -- > Tweak Bob Kaplow - 28 Oct 2004 04:57 GMT > Thermalite is essentially flash powder on a wire. Wrong. Thermalite is essentially Thermite on a wire. With more wires and some cloth wrapped around it.
thermite: mixture of powdered or granular aluminum metal and powdered iron oxide [thus the rust-like color - rgk]. When ignited it gives off large amounts of heat. The reaction is very exothermic; temperatures above 2,500°C (4,500°F) are often reached.
Bob Kaplow NAR # 18L TRA # "Impeach the TRA BoD" >>> To reply, remove the TRABoD! <<< Kaplow Klips & Baffle: http://nira-rocketry.org/LeadingEdge/Phantom4000.pdf www.encompasserve.org/~kaplow_r/ www.nira-rocketry.org www.nar.org
26-October, 2001: A day that will live in infamy Support Freedom: http://www.indefenseoffreedom.org/
Voting for "the lesser of two evils" is still voting for evil.
Jerry Irvine - 28 Oct 2004 15:50 GMT > > Thermalite is essentially flash powder on a wire. > > Wrong. He is wrong about everything.
> Thermalite is essentially Thermite on a wire. With more wires and > some cloth wrapped around it. [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > Voting for "the lesser of two evils" is still voting for evil.
 Signature Jerry Irvine, Box 1242, Claremont, California 91711 USA Opinion, the whole thing. <mail to:01rocket@gte.net> Please bring common sense back to rocketry administration. Produce then publish. http://www.usrockets.com Ebay auction deals and specials. http://tinyurl.com/6wlp8
Fred Shecter - 28 Oct 2004 13:49 GMT I've been too busy to chime in, but here is what I did late last year to use up my remaining A10-0T motors as they approached the de-certification date.
When staged A10-0T to A10-3T (or if more than 2 stages, A10-0T to A10-0T, etc.) they worked every time as-is. Large nozzle and large exposed propellant surface are always good. That's why Estes A8-5 and B4-6 (now long gone) motors worked great in upper stages. Tiny nozzles do not help ignition. Estes B6 and C6 motors *love* to "pop & stop".
So, when I tried to stage my A10-0T to A3-4T motors or 1/2A3-4T motors, they did not ignite 80% of the time. This is with direct contact and cellophane tape holding them together AND scraping the propellant surface of the upper motor to remove surface dust. Reason: tiny upper nozzle presents too small a target AND large A10-0T booster nozzle allows gas out the back end.
Solution: I painted a thin layer of magnelite pyrogen onto the entire outer nozzle surface of the tiny nozzled upper stage motors and also down the nozzle throat to the propellant. Then they worked 90% of the time. I often had a half-second ignition delay.
I have never done this with larger motors. My success rate with staging 18mm and larger motors is near 100%. I clean the nozzles, I cellophane tape the motors together and I try to use larger nozzles in the upper stages. Quest motors are now my upper stage motor of choice. A Quest C6-5 has plenty of delay time. Ditto the A6-4 for lower altitude flights.
All the teams I helped with TARC had great success with all combinations of 24 mm motors - even the semi-tiny nozzled C11 and E9 motors. There were a few early ignition failures as they learned how to do the gap staging (often with clustering). Lots of coupler engagement. Vent holes.
As for the attempts to use a "wick": Back in the 1970's I attempted to use Jetex wick and also Sure Shot wicks (when they were fresh and not 30 year old crumbling fossils). Jetex never worked for me in upper stages. The wick would 'snuff out' as it attempted to pass whatever was holding it in the nozzle (tape, wadding ball, balsa stick...). The Sure Shot would also snuff out if secured with a wadding ball, but not if held with tape. Of course, with tape, it's not really "secured" since it can fall out as the tape is burned. Conclusion: blockages like wadding balls and sticks will suck the heat energy out of the burning wick/fuse and stop it from burning. They obviously don't need oxygen to burn, but they can be snuffed.
Thermalite would probably be a lot harder (or impossible) to snuff out. But it can't be used in a "Model Rocket".
-Fred Shecter NAR 20117
> OK, just completed my final test. > [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] > > Has anyone experience with this technique? Think it worth trying or is > > there an obvious flaw in my reasoning? RayDunakin - 26 Oct 2004 02:09 GMT Bit wrote: << I had scraped the sustainer motor grain to assure that there was no clay blocking the nozzle, but to no avail. After a search of rmr, I see that some people have used a wire dipped in pyrogen to ignite upper stages, but I was thinking that simply painting pyrogen up into the sustainer nozzle might work just as well without having the issue of securing such an igniter in place. >>
Pyrogen is sometimes applied to the core of the upper grain on a composite motor to ensure ignition.
If you're talking about BP motors, no one that I know of does that.
Fred Shecter - 26 Oct 2004 19:02 GMT I've been too busy to chime in, but here is what I did late last year to use up my remaining A10-0T motors as they approached the de-certification date.
When staged A10-0T to A10-3T (or if more than 2 stages, A10-0T to A10-0T, etc.) they worked every time as-is. Large nozzle and large exposed propellant surface are always good. That's why Estes A8-5 and B4-6 (now long gone) motors worked great in upper stages. Tiny nozzles do not help ignition. Estes B6 and C6 motors *love* to "pop & stop".
So, when I tried to stage my A10-0T to A3-4T motors or 1/2A3-4T motors, they did not ignite 80% of the time. This is with direct contact and cellophane tape holding them together AND scraping the propellant surface of the upper motor to remove surface dust. Reason: tiny upper nozzle presents too small a target AND large A10-0T booster nozzle allows gas out the back end.
Solution: I painted a thin layer of magnelite pyrogen onto the entire outer nozzle surface of the tiny nozzled upper stage motors and also down the nozzle throat to the propellant. Then they worked 90% of the time. I often had a half-second ignition delay.
I have never done this with larger motors. My success rate with staging 18mm and larger motors is near 100%. I clean the nozzles, I cellophane tape the motors together and I try to use larger nozzles in the upper stages. Quest motors are now my upper stage motor of choice. A Quest C6-5 has plenty of delay time. Ditto the A6-4 for lower altitude flights.
All the teams I helped with TARC had great success with all combinations of 24 mm motors - even the semi-tiny nozzled C11 and E9 motors. There were a few early ignition failures as they learned how to do the gap staging (often with clustering). Lots of coupler engagement. Vent holes.
As for the attempts to use a "wick": Back in the 1970's I attempted to use Jetex wick and also Sure Shot wicks (when they were fresh and not 30 year old crumbling fossils). Jetex never worked for me in upper stages. The wick would 'snuff out' as it attempted to pass whatever was holding it in the nozzle (tape, wadding ball, balsa stick...). The Sure Shot would also snuff out if secured with a wadding ball, but not if held with tape. Of course, with tape, it's not really "secured" since it can fall out as the tape is burned. Conclusion: blockages like wadding balls and sticks will suck the heat energy out of the burning wick/fuse and stop it from burning. They obviously don't need oxygen to burn, but they can be snuffed.
Thermalite would probably be a lot harder (or impossible) to snuff out. But it can't be used in a "Model Rocket".
-Fred Shecter NAR 20117
> Bit wrote: > << I had scraped the sustainer motor grain to assure that there was no clay [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > If you're talking about BP motors, no one that I know of does that. Ken Holloway - 26 Oct 2004 17:45 GMT I've reviewed your posts and have been considering your problem. I have a couple of ideas you might want to try.
First, using any type of Pyrogen painted on the nozzel would probably be a bad idea. The ignition temperature of black powder is lower than any pyrogen I'm familiar with. That being said you might be able to use black powder to help insure ignition.
Try painting the nozzel of a BP motor with nitrate, not butrate, model airplane dope and immediately pouring 4FG black powder into the nozzel. Once the dope has dried pour the excess powder out of the nozzel. The nozzel's entire surface should now be covered with a thin coating of black powder. This powder should act as a "powder trail" to insure ignition of the sustainer motor upon burn through of the booster motor.
Secondly you could try getting some "flash paper" from a magic shop. This is thin tissue paper soaked in potassium nitrate so it will "flash" or burn rapidly when it encounters any hot spark. I'd try pouring a small amount of 4FG black powder into the sustainer motor's nozzel then sealing the nozzel with a small disk of flash paper glued to the rim of the motor. When the booster motor burns through the hot sparks will ignite the flash paper which in turn will ignite the 4FG powder. This should result in a "flash in the pan" style ignition event.
Finally you might take a tip from the magician's flash paper and try soaking your cotton string in a strong potassium nitrate (saltpeter) solution. This should improve the buring characteristics of the string. You might be able to get a small amount of potassium nitrate from a local drug store. My local drugstore used to carry it along with powdered sulfur (used for fumigating houses) when I was a kid.
Ken Holloway, NAR #78336, L-II
bit eimer - 27 Oct 2004 01:48 GMT Those are all pretty interesting ideas, though perhaps more complicated than that for which I was hoping. I'm keeping your post for future "bag-of-tricks" value. :^)
About the ignition temperature question: I think the sustainer ignition failure was more likely due to the unfortunate lack of blow-through particles entering the sustainer nozzle, rather than due to low temperature of said particles. The nozzle, being that of a C6-5, is quite small at about 3mm diameter. So, while its not quite as difficult as Luke's shot at the Death Star, it still takes some luck to get a good hit.
It seems a fair assumption that the blow-through particles are hot enough to ignite pyrogen given that in my last test the entire sustainer nozzle, throat, and exposed grain were covered with pyrogen, and in order for the sustainer to ignite (which it did), the pyrogen had to burn first.
As such, it appears to me that the lowest hanging fruit is increasing the probably of a particle impacting an ignitable surface, just as your nitrate/BP or flash paper/BP approach would do. Painting pyrogen, I think, achieves that same effect, but with less effort, complexity, mess, and hassle.
Fred mentions elsewhere in the thread that he has used this technique successfully with A3-4Ts. The improvement in ignitable area for an A3-4T would be a factor of 11. If we say that A is the probability of a sustainer ignition failure due to no burn-through particle hitting the throat of the sustainer, then A^11 would be the probability of no particle hitting any part of the nozzle. Fred says his failure rate prior to coating he nozzle with pyrogen was about 80%, so A = 0.8 and A^11 = 0.086. This agrees surprizingly well with his estimate that his success rate after pyrogen painting was about 90%.
For the C6-5 that I used the area increase is a factor of 18, so one should expect an success-rate improvement substantially better than even Fred was for his A3-4Ts.
PS: Jerry - I think THIS should be in the FAQ. ;^)
 Signature ...The Bit Eimer NAR 84054 "My goal in life is to be the kind of person my cat thinks he is" [remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me] --------------------------------------------------------------
> I've reviewed your posts and have been considering your problem. I > have a couple of ideas you might want to try. [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] > > Ken Holloway, NAR #78336, L-II Jerry Irvine - 27 Oct 2004 01:56 GMT > PS: Jerry - I think THIS should be in the FAQ. ;^) THIS should be in the FAQ
is the search string, so you just made it available for some vague future FAQ.
But now you also know the key to looking for past gems.
 Signature Jerry Irvine, Box 1242, Claremont, California 91711 USA Opinion, the whole thing. <mail to:01rocket@gte.net> Please bring common sense back to rocketry administration. Produce then publish. http://www.usrockets.com Ebay auction deals and specials. http://tinyurl.com/6wlp8
Zak Orion - 31 Oct 2004 15:46 GMT .
> But now you also know the key to looking for past gems. I kind of figured that out a few months ago. In fact. I was going to collect some of the gems and see if I could make a single text file that would fill a CD.
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