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motor retainer advice?

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bit eimer - 18 Nov 2004 02:18 GMT
Am getting ready to build my first G-size rocket (LOC Weasel-29) and am not
sure of the pros/cons of various engine retaining systems (beyond just
masking tape, which has me leary).

Any advice or comments?

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...The Bit Eimer     NAR 84054
"My goal in life is to be the kind of person my cat thinks he is"
[remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me]
--------------------------------------------------------------

J.A. Michel - 18 Nov 2004 02:32 GMT
PML makes a nice retainer for 15-20 bucks.  I have one and like it because
it can be fitted and used on all the HPR rockets in my fleet.

I have a rocket with an Aeropack retainer as well.  Those are nice, but
pricey, and you have to buy extra bases at 15-20 bucks a pop to use it on
other rockets.

Signature

Joe Michel
NAR 82797 L2
http://home.alltel.net/jm44316/

> Am getting ready to build my first G-size rocket (LOC Weasel-29) and am not
> sure of the pros/cons of various engine retaining systems (beyond just
> masking tape, which has me leary).
>
> Any advice or comments?
bit eimer - 18 Nov 2004 06:31 GMT
> PML makes a nice retainer for 15-20 bucks.  I have one and like it because
> it can be fitted and used on all the HPR rockets in my fleet.

Yeah, I'd seen that one, but it doesn't work on "almost minimum diameter"
rockets where the centering ring is not large enough for the threaded
inserts - same problem that Kaplow Klips have.

> I have a rocket with an Aeropack retainer as well.  Those are nice, but
> pricey, and you have to buy extra bases at 15-20 bucks a pop to use it on
> other rockets.

Signature

...The Bit Eimer     NAR 84054
"My goal in life is to be the kind of person my cat thinks he is"
[remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me]
--------------------------------------------------------------

Will Marchant - 18 Nov 2004 02:42 GMT
The "Aerotech RMS Aft Closure Wrench" I got from
https://secure.consumersinterest.com/performancehobbies/store.asp?groupid=218021
0303839

fits the RMS-29/40-120 casing and has a couple of holes so that it made
a perfect retainer on my LOC Graduator.  A "T nut" set from the local
hobby shop completed the modifications.
    Will

> Am getting ready to build my first G-size rocket (LOC Weasel-29) and am not
> sure of the pros/cons of various engine retaining systems (beyond just
> masking tape, which has me leary).
>
> Any advice or comments?

Signature

Will Marchant, NAR 13356, Tripoli 10125
kc6rol@amsat.org     http://www.spaceflightsoftware.com/will/

NaCl - 18 Nov 2004 02:52 GMT
On the LOC Weasel-29 that I have, the motor mount is 29 mm and the airframe
is (I think) 38 mm.  This does not allow the t nut method (of which I am a
fan).  Unless someone can drill into 4.5 mm of plywood on each side without
ruining the integrity of the aft centering ring.

> The "Aerotech RMS Aft Closure Wrench" I got from
> https://secure.consumersinterest.com/performancehobbies/store.asp?groupid=218021
0303839
 
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>>
>> Any advice or comments?
bit eimer - 18 Nov 2004 06:19 GMT
> On the LOC Weasel-29 that I have, the motor mount is 29 mm and the
> airframe is (I think) 38 mm.  This does not allow the t nut method (of
> which I am a fan).  Unless someone can drill into 4.5 mm of plywood on
> each side without ruining the integrity of the aft centering ring.

Yep, I was originally intending to just use Kaplow Klips.  Then I opened the
kit, had a look at the centering rings, and said "oh scheiss, no way can I
fit t-nuts in there".

Signature

...The Bit Eimer     NAR 84054
"My goal in life is to be the kind of person my cat thinks he is"
[remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me]
--------------------------------------------------------------

Joel Corwith - 19 Nov 2004 05:09 GMT
> > On the LOC Weasel-29 that I have, the motor mount is 29 mm and the
> > airframe is (I think) 38 mm.  This does not allow the t nut method (of
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> kit, had a look at the centering rings, and said "oh scheiss, no way can I
> fit t-nuts in there".

Notch the rear of a fin or two and dremel a T nut to fit against the body
tube such that the flange is sticking into the fin.  A reinforced epoxy
fillet will cover/retain the Tnut.

Joel.
Bob Kaplow - 19 Nov 2004 19:00 GMT
> Yep, I was originally intending to just use Kaplow Klips.  Then I opened the
> kit, had a look at the centering rings, and said "oh scheiss, no way can I
> fit t-nuts in there".

You can if you try hard enough. Or use threaded brass inserts.

    Bob Kaplow    NAR # 18L    TRA # "Impeach the TRA BoD"
        >>> To reply, remove the TRABoD! <<<
Kaplow Klips & Baffle:    http://nira-rocketry.org/LeadingEdge/Phantom4000.pdf
   www.encompasserve.org/~kaplow_r/    www.nira-rocketry.org    www.nar.org

       You [should] not examine legislation in the light of the
       benefits it will convey if properly administered, but in the
       light of the wrongs it would do and the harm it would cause if
       improperly administered -- Lyndon Johnson, former President of
       the U.S.
Doug Sams - 20 Nov 2004 00:19 GMT
> Yep, I was originally intending to just use Kaplow Klips.  Then I opened the
> kit, had a look at the centering rings, and said "oh scheiss, no way can I
> fit t-nuts in there".

Bit,

I'm thinking you can just build up the ring's thickness in a couple
spots and then use a small wood screw skipping the T-nuts.

The build-up will look like this:
http://home.flash.net/~samily/stuff/built-up-ring2-3.gif

Built-up birch ply ought to be able to retain some #6 or #8 wood screws.
Wrap the (previously mentioned) steel wire around the nozzle and around
each screw.  That should work fine.

Doug
bit eimer - 20 Nov 2004 01:42 GMT
Wow, did you make that graphic just for me?!

Signature

...The Bit Eimer     NAR 84054
"My goal in life is to be the kind of person my cat thinks he is"
[remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me]
--------------------------------------------------------------

>> Yep, I was originally intending to just use Kaplow Klips.  Then I opened
>> the
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
> Doug
Rick Dunseith - 20 Nov 2004 02:38 GMT
Here's how I retain motors in most of my mid-power rockets, a
technique especially useful for those rockets whose motor tubes
are barely smaller than their airframes.

After assembling the motor tube, including centering rings, I
drilled two 1/8" holes through the rear centering ring.  I
drilled the holes on opposite sides of the motor tube, kind of
like this (sorry for the crudeness of the picture):
  ____
 / __ \
/ /  \ \
|O|    |O|
\ \__/ /
 \____/

Then I got some 1/8" threaded rod (any hardware store should
stock this; I bought a 12" length; it was quite inexpensive).
You need to cut off a piece long enough for a washer, a locking
washer, and a nut, plus the depth of your motor's retaining ring
(for me, it's a ring of masking tape), plus the width of the
centering ring, plus another 3/4".  I cut mine with a hack saw,
and then filed the cut end a little to allow a nut to thread onto
it.

Once the piece is cut, carefully (slowly) bend it into an "L"
shape, bending just the last 1/2" or so.  If it breaks instead of
bending, try it again.  The trick is to go slow, and don't bend
it past a right angle.  If you manage to do it without breaking
the rod, you'll end up with a piece of rod like this:
_______________________
|_____________________  \
                     | |
                     |_|

Then carefully bend the base of the "L" shape to round it a bit,
so that looking at the base of the "L" from the end, it kind of
looks like this:
_
/ /

\_\

This is because the base of the "L" needs to fit between the
motor tube and the body tube, and there's not much room, so you
have to make the base of the "L" a little rounded to follow the
contour of the motor tube.

Finally, push the long part of the "L" through one of the holes
in the centering ring from the motor tube side, until the base of
the "L" butts up against the centering ring.  All said and done,
it will look something like this:
                  __
                _|1 |______________
               | |  |
_______________|_|  |__
|_________________|  | 2\
               | |  || |   3
               | |  ||_|
               |_|  |______________
                 |__|

In the diagram above, (1) is the rear centering ring.  (2) is the
1/8" threaded rod bent into an "L" shape, and (3) is the motor
tube.

Once you've done this on both sides, epoxy the bases of the "L"s
to the motor tube and centering ring.  Once complete, you'll have
a motor tube with two threaded rods sticking out around where the
motor is inserted.  Then finish assembling the kit as per the
instructions.

When I fly, I insert my motor, then I put a large washer, a
locking washer and a nut on each threaded rod.  Assembled for
flight, it looks like this:
            _
      _  _ | |
_____|_|| || |_____----------------
|_____|_|| || |____|
     |_||_|| ||   |
           |_||   |
              |   |
  1   2  3  4 | 5 |       6
            _ |   |
      _  _ | ||   |
_____|_|| || ||___|
|_____|_|| || |____|
     |_||_|| |     ----------------
           |_|

In the diagram above, (1) indicates the threaded rods, (2)
indicates the nuts screwed onto the rods, (3) indicates the lock
washers, (4) indicates the bigger washers holding the motor in,
(5) indicates the motor retaining ring (built into an RMS motor,
or a masking tape ring on a single-use motor) and (6) indicates
the rocket's body tube.

On my LOC Legacy, I actually recessed the motor tube to that the
motor's retaining ring would be flush with the rear of the body
tube, thus giving the washer support on the retaining ring on one
side and the body tube on the other, so the washer remains level
rather than canted.  Either way, the system will work.

And that's how I did PMR on the LOC Legacy.  Writing it down, it
sounds way more complicated than it really is.  I have used this
technique, or a variant of it, for all of my mid-power and some
of my high-power rockets, and it's worked fine every time.

Have fun...Rick
Rick Dunseith - 20 Nov 2004 14:37 GMT
> Here's how I retain motors in most of my mid-power rockets, a
> technique especially useful for those rockets whose motor tubes
> are barely smaller than their airframes.

In my last post the ASCII-art got messed up.  My mailer for some reason
deleted the first space on each line of each drawings.  I'll try again,
with just the drawings fixed up:
  ____
 / __ \
/ /  \ \
|O|    |O|
\ \__/ /
 \____/

_______________________
|_____________________  \
                     | |
                     |_|

_
/ /

\_\

                  __
                _|1 |______________
               | |  |
_______________|_|  |__
|_________________|  | 2\
               | |  || |   3
               | |  ||_|
               |_|  |______________
                 |__|

            _
      _  _ | |
_____|_|| || |_____----------------
|_____|_|| || |____|
     |_||_|| ||   |
           |_||   |
              |   |
  1   2  3  4 | 5 |       6
            _ |   |
      _  _ | ||   |
_____|_|| || ||___|
|_____|_|| || |____|
     |_||_|| |     ----------------
           |_|
Rick Dunseith - 20 Nov 2004 14:41 GMT
Darn, it did it again. OK, one more try, this time with no lines
starting with a 'space':

>    ____
>   / __ \
[quoted text clipped - 34 lines]
>        |_||_|| |     ----------------
>              |_|

Hope that worked...Rick
Doug Sams - 20 Nov 2004 15:30 GMT
<snip great post>

Rick,

Your artwork was awesome.  It takes lots of talent and effort to do that in ascii/courier.  Good for you.

Couple comments:  The L bend.  I don't know if that's really needed.  Yes, it adds strength.  But I was thinking of just leaving them straight and screwing them into the wood with a little epoxy or thick CA on the threads.  That ought to hold plenty strong.  If it fails, you probably have an event which is so severe that the L won't help anyway.

I've used all-threads before for retention, using different mounting techniques, but I definitely agree yours is a good idea.  

I do queston the lock washer.  While I advocate them on anything I want to stay together, it doesn't seem needed here. The short flight is hardly long enough for the nuts to vibrate loose, right?  <smile>

Again, great ascii artwork.

Doug
Bob Kaplow - 20 Nov 2004 15:48 GMT
>                    __
>                  _|1 |______________
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>                 |_|  |______________
>                   |__|

Seeing threaded rod sticking out of the back of a rocket like this is
EXACTLY what led me to dome up with the Kaplow Klips. The pointy metal rods
sticking out of the back end are DANGEROUS!

What would happen if a rocket with this retention system landed on someones
car? Scratches to the hood, trunk, or roof could easilly be a $1000 repair
job.

What would happen if it hit your head?

    Bob Kaplow    NAR # 18L    TRA # "Impeach the TRA BoD"
        >>> To reply, remove the TRABoD! <<<
Kaplow Klips & Baffle:    http://nira-rocketry.org/LeadingEdge/Phantom4000.pdf
   www.encompasserve.org/~kaplow_r/    www.nira-rocketry.org    www.nar.org

       We must have faith in our democratic system and our Constitution,
       and in our ability to protect at the same time both the freedom and
       the security of all Americans.
Rick Dunseith - 21 Nov 2004 14:49 GMT
>Seeing threaded rod sticking out of the back of a
>rocket ... What would happen if a rocket with this
>retention system landed on someones car? What would
>happen if it hit your head?

I agree, Bob.  That was my thought the very first time I used this
technique and then stood back to look at what I'd created.

So to lessen the impact of these relatively "sharp" rods sticking out
the back I like to trim the length such that, with the washers and nuts
threaded on, there's no extra rod sticking out.  Hence the choice to use
lock washers, which Doug was questioning.

Also, I also only use this threaded rod technique when there's not
enough room between the motor mount tube and the airframe for T-nuts or
threaded inserts.

...Rick
Tweak - 22 Nov 2004 15:52 GMT
> >                    __
> >                  _|1 |______________
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
> What would happen if it hit your head?

All this really depends on just what size of a rocket we are discussing,
now doesn't it?  A little pointy bit on the bottom of a ~75lb. rocket
doesn't really make much difference...your trunk lid (or roof, easy
chair, priceless collection of antique modrocs, small annoying animal,
etc.) is history.  It will just either be history with or without an
additional little hole in it.

Anyway, I prefer using 2 or 3 8" stainless steel spikes (turned from 1"
stock) bolted to the bottom of my rockets.  This prevents the wind from
dragging it away when it lands.

Signature

Tweak

Mfreptiles - 24 Nov 2004 17:10 GMT
>Anyway, I prefer using 2 or 3 8" stainless steel spikes (turned from 1"
>stock) bolted to the bottom of my rockets.  This prevents the wind from
>dragging it away when it lands.

No LCO/RSO I know would allow that.

Mike F.
Rick Dickinson - 24 Nov 2004 18:28 GMT
>>Anyway, I prefer using 2 or 3 8" stainless steel spikes (turned from 1"
>>stock) bolted to the bottom of my rockets.  This prevents the wind from
>>dragging it away when it lands.
>
>No LCO/RSO I know would allow that.

I think he forgot to mention adding nose weight to compensate, and get
the CG back forward where it belongs.  Without that, it's likely to be
unstable, and the RSO would be wise to disallow it.

- Rick "Spring surprise" Dickinson

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Kurt Kesler - 28 Nov 2004 17:00 GMT
> >>Anyway, I prefer using 2 or 3 8" stainless steel spikes (turned from 1"
> >>stock) bolted to the bottom of my rockets.  This prevents the wind from
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
>  - Rick "Spring surprise" Dickinson

I add cinder blocks to the recovery system to compensate, along with a
polished stainless spike on the nosecone.  That way, in the event of lawn
dart, it turns into a giant game of "Jarts".

--
Tweak
Doug Sams - 20 Nov 2004 15:21 GMT
> Wow, did you make that graphic just for me?!

No prob.  Most intersting thing I did all day :)

Doug
Engineer trapped in marketing...
Bob Kaplow - 19 Nov 2004 18:59 GMT
> On the LOC Weasel-29 that I have, the motor mount is 29 mm and the airframe
> is (I think) 38 mm.  This does not allow the t nut method (of which I am a
> fan).  Unless someone can drill into 4.5 mm of plywood on each side without
> ruining the integrity of the aft centering ring.

I've done 29 in 38 retainers. At that size, you either have to use the tiny
T-nuts and file off all the round flange until it really is a "T", or use
threaded brass inserts.

    Bob Kaplow    NAR # 18L    TRA # "Impeach the TRA BoD"
        >>> To reply, remove the TRABoD! <<<
Kaplow Klips & Baffle:    http://nira-rocketry.org/LeadingEdge/Phantom4000.pdf
   www.encompasserve.org/~kaplow_r/    www.nira-rocketry.org    www.nar.org

       You [should] not examine legislation in the light of the
       benefits it will convey if properly administered, but in the
       light of the wrongs it would do and the harm it would cause if
       improperly administered -- Lyndon Johnson, former President of
       the U.S.
David Weinshenker - 18 Nov 2004 03:13 GMT
> Am getting ready to build my first G-size rocket (LOC Weasel-29) and am not
> sure of the pros/cons of various engine retaining systems (beyond just
> masking tape, which has me leary).
>
> Any advice or comments?

Masking tape should work fine. Leave a little bit (1/2 inch
or so) of motor tubing sticking out past the rear of the aft
centering ring. Wrap tape around the nozzle end of the motor
(if using single-use) to build up a "thrust ring" that will
bear against the aft end of the motor tube; insert motor; and
wrap some tape over the joint to secure the motor in the tube.

-dave w
EldredP - 19 Nov 2004 04:36 GMT
>Masking tape should work fine. Leave a little bit (1/2 inch
>or so) of motor tubing sticking out past the rear of the aft
>centering ring. Wrap tape around the nozzle end of the motor
>(if using single-use) to build up a "thrust ring" that will
>bear against the aft end of the motor tube; insert motor; and
>wrap some tape over the joint to secure the motor in the tube.

Damn...I've heard people say use tape as a thrust ring(mainly for models), but
I'd never understood it before.  I got it now - thanks!

Eldred
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Strudleman - 18 Nov 2004 11:08 GMT
> Am getting ready to build my first G-size rocket (LOC Weasel-29) and am not
> sure of the pros/cons of various engine retaining systems (beyond just
> masking tape, which has me leary).
>
> Any advice or comments?

For minimum, and almost minimum diameter rockets, I feel the Slimline
retainers work best, but are pricey.  Tape should work fine for you in
this instance, since your not working with an especially large motor.

One solution that worked quite well on my son's PML Bull Puppy 2.1 was
to insert t-nuts into the SIDE of the body tube, just above the end of
the rocket.  We then fabricated retention straps by grabbing some metal
strips from the hobby store, drilling a hole in them, and bending them
around the bottom of the rocket.  They create a small amount of drag,
but unless your going for altitude records, that doesn't really matter.

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-strudle

"I leave punk rock on for my cats so they'll get more hardcore while I'm
out"

"In terms of sheer coolness, few things beat rocketry."  - Paul Allen,
co-founder of Microsoft

TRA# 10219

Zathras of the Great Machine - 18 Nov 2004 13:36 GMT
>Am getting ready to build my first G-size rocket (LOC Weasel-29) and am not sure of the pros/cons of various engine retaining systems (beyond just masking tape, which has me leary).
>
>Any advice or comments?

 Tape is adaquate if you pay attention to detail. I've used it for up
to my biggest motors flown to date (38mm I's). Of course I make sure
there's enough tape that it's in so tight I have to usually pound the
casings back out. Single use motors can need the tape retaining rings
but once you get into reloads the casings have that integral to them
(least mine do)
 My newer rockets are getting retention systems, such as T-nuts,
homemade Kaplow clips, washers, etc. At those times, such as with the
LOC centering rings, I've bought extras to doubled them up so there's
extra thickness and strength. I've also retrofitted my EZI-65 for
similar by epoxying 4 small oak blocks onto the centering ring with
above retentions attached to them. My 54-38mm motor adapter is the next
retrofit, as is my 54-29mm adapter. Minimum diameter birds, and my
38-29mm adapter, are still using tape since there's just no room.
 And think nothing of the off-list advice I'd sent you, that's what
we're supposed to be here for. Right folks?

Chuck
Dennis Dunn - 18 Nov 2004 14:42 GMT
Hi,

> masking tape, which has me leary).

I have a LOC Vulcanite with a 29mm adapter.  I have had no problems
using masking tape as motor retention using Aerotechs 29mm single-use
motors.

First, I made a thrust ring by wrapping the tape about 1/4" above the
end of the casing.  Keep wrapping until the ring is thick enough, maybe
as thick as the MMT.  Since it was 1" tape, this left a ring hanging off
the end of the case which I trimmed off with a razor knife.

Then a strip of tape spiraled down the case provided enough friction to
prevent the motor from slipping out during ejection.

I am working on another rocket that has a 29mm MMT inside of a 54mm
airframe.  There is not enough width to the centering ring to
accommodate a #8 T-nut so I /very carefully/ epoxied a washer and nut to
the backside of the centering ring.  This will accept a machine screw
and another washer to hold the motor.  I only have one motor retention
point because I didn't want to weaken the centering ring any more than I
had to.

HTH,
--dennis
Tweak - 18 Nov 2004 15:31 GMT
> Am getting ready to build my first G-size rocket (LOC Weasel-29) and am not
> sure of the pros/cons of various engine retaining systems (beyond just
> masking tape, which has me leary).
>
> Any advice or comments?

Drill a small hole in the bottom of a couple of fins, then use safety
wire.

Signature

Tweak

bit eimer - 18 Nov 2004 16:02 GMT
>> Am getting ready to build my first G-size rocket (LOC Weasel-29) and am
>> not
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> Drill a small hole in the bottom of a couple of fins, then use safety
> wire.

Sorry, I'm not clear on what you mean.  How does one "use safety wire"?

Signature

...The Bit Eimer     NAR 84054
"My goal in life is to be the kind of person my cat thinks he is"
[remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me]
--------------------------------------------------------------

David Weinshenker - 18 Nov 2004 16:19 GMT
> >> Am getting ready to build my first G-size rocket (LOC Weasel-29) and am
> >> not
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> Sorry, I'm not clear on what you mean.  How does one "use safety wire"?

"Safety wire" is .030" soft stainless steel wire, which can be
had at motorcycle shops and aircraft supply dealers. Its usual
use is to be strung through holes in the heads of bolts and
twisted tight to make sure the bolt doesn't go anywhere if it
wants to try to vibrate loose. (This is a common precaution for
things like the crankcase drain plug on a racing motorcycle, or
the bolts attaching an airplane propeller to the engine shaft hub...)

In this case, the wire would be looped through the hole in the
bottom of a fin and led across the aft end of the rocket, around
the motor nozzle, and through the hole in another fin. (The ends
can be then twisted together and trimmed off short. Simply cut
the wires to remove the motor after flight.)

I used this method on my PML Cirrus Dart (which has a min. dia.
airframe with no aft-extending motor tube): it works well.

-dave w
bit eimer - 18 Nov 2004 17:05 GMT
> "Safety wire" is .030" soft stainless steel wire, which can be
> had at motorcycle shops and aircraft supply dealers. Its usual
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> I used this method on my PML Cirrus Dart (which has a min. dia.
> airframe with no aft-extending motor tube): it works well.

Ahh, that's for the explanation

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...The Bit Eimer     NAR 84054
"My goal in life is to be the kind of person my cat thinks he is"
[remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me]
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Tweak - 18 Nov 2004 17:33 GMT
> > "Safety wire" is .030" soft stainless steel wire, which can be
> > had at motorcycle shops and aircraft supply dealers. Its usual
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>
> Ahh, that's for the explanation

Yes, thanks David.  Me good ol' Winders box crashed again, so I have
been in "recovery".

;-)

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Tweak

Jerry Irvine - 20 Nov 2004 14:07 GMT
> > >> Am getting ready to build my first G-size rocket (LOC Weasel-29) and am
> > >> not
[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
>
> -dave w

This should be in the FAQ.

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Jerry Irvine, Box 1242, Claremont, California 91711 USA
Opinion, the whole thing. <mail to:01rocket@gte.net>
Please bring common sense back to rocketry administration.
Produce then publish.  http://www.usrockets.com
Ebay auction deals and specials. http://tinyurl.com/6wlp8

nedtovak - 18 Nov 2004 16:42 GMT
Haven't built a Weasel yet but I have done several Legacy's though.
What I did was use the AT engine hook with the forward bend cut off and
used fiberglass tape for reinforcement to the MMT.  Works great.  Think
of it like Estes engine hook on steroids.

Ted Novak
TRA#5512
IEAS#75

> Am getting ready to build my first G-size rocket (LOC Weasel-29) and am not
> sure of the pros/cons of various engine retaining systems (beyond just
> masking tape, which has me leary).
>
> Any advice or comments?
nedtovak - 18 Nov 2004 16:48 GMT
Forgot to mention that for this to work properly you do need use a
masking tape thrust ring on SU motors.

Ted Novak
TRA#5512
IEAS#75

> Haven't built a Weasel yet but I have done several Legacy's though. What
> I did was use the AT engine hook with the forward bend cut off and used
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>>
>> Any advice or comments?
Jerry Irvine - 20 Nov 2004 14:06 GMT
> Forgot to mention that for this to work properly you do need use a
> masking tape thrust ring on SU motors.

So why not omit the hook and just use tape outside the motor as well and
also a Kaplow clip for valuable consumer interaction rich RMS cases?

Jerry

> Ted Novak
> TRA#5512
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> >>
> >> Any advice or comments?

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Jerry Irvine, Box 1242, Claremont, California 91711 USA
Opinion, the whole thing. <mail to:01rocket@gte.net>
Please bring common sense back to rocketry administration.
Produce then publish.  http://www.usrockets.com
Ebay auction deals and specials. http://tinyurl.com/6wlp8

bit eimer - 18 Nov 2004 17:19 GMT
> Haven't built a Weasel yet but I have done several Legacy's though. What I
> did was use the AT engine hook with the forward bend cut off and used
> fiberglass tape for reinforcement to the MMT.  Works great.  Think of it
> like Estes engine hook on steroids.

Never seen an AT engine hook and it doesn't look like they're are available
other than in an AT kit.

Think its frabricable?

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...The Bit Eimer     NAR 84054
"My goal in life is to be the kind of person my cat thinks he is"
[remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me]
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nedtovak - 18 Nov 2004 17:31 GMT
>>Haven't built a Weasel yet but I have done several Legacy's though. What I
>>did was use the AT engine hook with the forward bend cut off and used
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Think its frabricable?

Totally.  Hardware store should have suitable metal band/strip.

I know my local Hub Hobby in MN has the hooks.  If needed maybe
something could arranged shipping wise.

Ted Novak
TRA#5512
IEAS#75
bit eimer - 18 Nov 2004 18:12 GMT
>>>Haven't built a Weasel yet but I have done several Legacy's though. What
>>>I did was use the AT engine hook with the forward bend cut off and used
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> Totally.  Hardware store should have suitable metal band/strip.

Could you/someone provide metal type and approximate dimensions?  Length,
width, thickness.

TIA,
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...The Bit Eimer     NAR 84054
"My goal in life is to be the kind of person my cat thinks he is"
[remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me]
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nedtovak - 18 Nov 2004 18:13 GMT
>>>>Haven't built a Weasel yet but I have done several Legacy's though. What
>>>>I did was use the AT engine hook with the forward bend cut off and used
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>
> TIA,

I think I might have a few in the workshop.  Where in the workshop I
don't know but tonight I'll do a looksie.

Ted Novak
TRA#5512
IEAS#75
default - 18 Nov 2004 18:14 GMT
"bit eimer" <bit_eimer.keinewurst@ten.xoc> wrote in message news:UQ4nd.149084

> Think its frabricable?

Do you pronounce that the old eastern way, "FAB-ricable"?  Or the new western
pronuonciation, "fa-BRICK-able?

steve  :)
bit eimer - 18 Nov 2004 22:02 GMT
> "bit eimer" <bit_eimer.keinewurst@ten.xoc> wrote in message
> news:UQ4nd.149084
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> western
> pronuonciation, "fa-BRICK-able?

I don't pronounce it - only type it.  That way I don't get my tongue all
twisted up on such difficult issues.

If forced, maybe I would just go for "fabri-CA-ble".   ;^)
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...The Bit Eimer     NAR 84054
"My goal in life is to be the kind of person my cat thinks he is"
[remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me]
--------------------------------------------------------------

Eric Pederson - 18 Nov 2004 18:25 GMT
> Am getting ready to build my first G-size rocket (LOC Weasel-29) and am not
> sure of the pros/cons of various engine retaining systems (beyond just
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> [remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me]
> --------------------------------------------------------------

Leave about 0.5 in of motor mount tube aft of the aft ring.  
Cut a 0.05 in wide axial slit in this exposed portion of tube.  
Get a hose clamp at your local hardware store.  
Tighten the clamp to secure the motor.
LeRoycom - 18 Nov 2004 19:49 GMT
>Get a hose clamp at your local hardware store.  
>Tighten the

dollar stores have the perfect hose clamp in a 4 pack set, there are 2 small,
not used and 2 larger ones that are of a smaller size then most hardware or
automotive types and fit this need well
bit eimer - 18 Nov 2004 22:04 GMT
Nice one - deals with both thrust and retention at same time.

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...The Bit Eimer     NAR 84054
"My goal in life is to be the kind of person my cat thinks he is"
[remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me]
--------------------------------------------------------------

>> Am getting ready to build my first G-size rocket (LOC Weasel-29) and am
>> not
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> Get a hose clamp at your local hardware store.
> Tighten the clamp to secure the motor.
EldredP - 28 Nov 2004 07:18 GMT
>Nice one - deals with both thrust and retention at same time.

>> Leave about 0.5 in of motor mount tube aft of the aft ring.
>> Cut a 0.05 in wide axial slit in this exposed portion of tube.
>> Get a hose clamp at your local hardware store.
>> Tighten the clamp to secure the motor.

Y'know, I didn't understand wtf he was saying before.  Re-read it, and still
didn't get it.  Read your reply, and 'ding'....I got it.
'Course, it's way past my bedtime right now, maybe my sleep-deprived mind
allowed my thinking to be crazy enough to understand it now...<g>

Eldred
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Eric K Albrecht - 18 Nov 2004 18:40 GMT
> Am getting ready to build my first G-size rocket (LOC Weasel-29) and am not
> sure of the pros/cons of various engine retaining systems (beyond just
> masking tape, which has me leary).
>
> Any advice or comments?

I've certainly used masking tape, but I added an Aeropack retainer to my LOC
Weasel, as shown in the image below.  It fits really nicely with the airframe
and looks great.  You will have to build it with the MMT extending about 1/2"
further aft than usual.

http://www.e2scopes.com/rockets/Database/source/loc_weasel.html

--
 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Eric Albrecht
Rocky Firth - 18 Nov 2004 19:55 GMT
> Am getting ready to build my first G-size rocket (LOC Weasel-29) and am not
> sure of the pros/cons of various engine retaining systems (beyond just
> masking tape, which has me leary).
>
> Any advice or comments?

I build mine with a retainer from Binder Designs, light, works great.
You can just see the end of it in this picture:
http://rfirth.crosswinds.net/loc/loc-weasle.html

Rocky Firth
bit eimer - 18 Nov 2004 20:33 GMT
>> Am getting ready to build my first G-size rocket (LOC Weasel-29) and am
>> not sure of the pros/cons of various engine retaining systems (beyond
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> Rocky Firth

I checked out their website and finally found retainers under "Upgrades" (go
figure :^).

Anyway, this is what I found:

"SLIMLINE MOTOR RETAINERS
All Slimline products have been discontinued. Stay tuned for a cheaper
alternative!"

Was it the slimline you used?

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...The Bit Eimer     NAR 84054
"My goal in life is to be the kind of person my cat thinks he is"
[remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me]
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Rocky Firth - 18 Nov 2004 22:15 GMT
>>>Am getting ready to build my first G-size rocket (LOC Weasel-29) and am
>>>not sure of the pros/cons of various engine retaining systems (beyond
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>
> Was it the slimline you used?

No, Mike Fisher is making his own now.  I have used his 29mm and 38 mm
with great success.

Rocky Firth
bit eimer - 18 Nov 2004 22:26 GMT
So where can one see and/or obtain one (online or in the real world)?  Where
is Binder Design physically located (couldn't determine from his website)?

Signature

...The Bit Eimer     NAR 84054
"My goal in life is to be the kind of person my cat thinks he is"
[remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me]
--------------------------------------------------------------

>>>>Am getting ready to build my first G-size rocket (LOC Weasel-29) and am
>>>>not sure of the pros/cons of various engine retaining systems (beyond
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
>
> Rocky Firth
Rocky Firth - 18 Nov 2004 22:37 GMT
> So where can one see and/or obtain one (online or in the real world)?  Where
> is Binder Design physically located (couldn't determine from his website)?

You can contact Mike at binderdesign at aol.com.  I think I paid $12 for
the 29mm retainer.

Rocky Firth
Rhhickok - 19 Nov 2004 00:57 GMT
If you're not already sold on the Binder Design retainer, let me tell you about
a method used when confronted with the same problem when using a 29mm MMT in a
BT-60 (it transitioned to a BT-70 in the top half). It's kinda similar to the
"Estes hook on steroids", but doesn't use spring action or flat metal......I
used a length of coat hanger bent at right angles on each end that rotates
within a slightly larger diameter brass tube. The brass tube is epoxied to the
MMT & you cut or drill a small piece out of the bottom centering ring to allow
the piece to stick out. I use masking tape wrapped around coat hanger & motor
to assure hook doesn't rotate when I don't want it to.
I discovered there are flimsier & stronger coat hangers. You could pick up thin
rods at a hobby shop instead. I've flown that rocket over a dozen times on G35s
& G64s with no problems.
I did a variation on that when retrofitting a rocket with motor retention when
I started using reloads. I epoxied the brass tube on the outside of the rocket
where the fin & body tube meet, similar to how we sometimes glue a launch lug
there. It's not that noticable, especially when painted the same color as that
portion of the rocket.
 --  Richard "even got one bent to go down a 3 or 4" boat tail" Hickok
bit eimer - 19 Nov 2004 05:20 GMT
Not sold on ANYTHING yet.  Still in data collection mode.

One thought was to go with a double "estes hook on steriods" approach, but
with a "locking" ring that would slip over the two hooks, preventing them
from bending out during flight.   Haven't worked out any detail though.

Your torsion bar hook has potential too.

Have decided to build my Deuces Wild while I continue to contemplate this
difficult and complex issue. ;^)

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...The Bit Eimer     NAR 84054
"My goal in life is to be the kind of person my cat thinks he is"
[remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me]
--------------------------------------------------------------

> If you're not already sold on the Binder Design retainer, let me tell you
> about
[quoted text clipped - 27 lines]
> portion of the rocket.
>  --  Richard "even got one bent to go down a 3 or 4" boat tail" Hickok
Andrew Grippo - 19 Nov 2004 10:46 GMT
To bit eimer,

I use the Giant Leap Slimline retainer for all my minimum diameter rockets.
It is reasonably priced and they also offer adapters if you want to go with
a smaller motor. Giant Leap provides good products and great service with
fast shipping. See their website here: www.giantleaprocketry.com
Check out the motor retainers in the High Power section.

Good luck with your project,

Andrew

> Not sold on ANYTHING yet.  Still in data collection mode.
>
[quoted text clipped - 39 lines]
>> portion of the rocket.
>>  --  Richard "even got one bent to go down a 3 or 4" boat tail" Hickok
Zathras of the Great Machine - 19 Nov 2004 13:21 GMT
>Not sold on ANYTHING yet.  Still in data collection mode.

 I'm glad you brought up the question. I've picked up some new ideas too.

>One thought was to go with a double "estes hook on steriods" approach, but with a "locking" ring that would slip over the two hooks, preventing them from bending out during flight.   Haven't worked out any detail though.

 Doubly up/redundancies is ever good when you have the chance. Murphy
and his Law is watching for any chink in the armor.

>Your torsion bar hook has potential too.
>
>Have decided to build my Deuces Wild while I continue to contemplate this difficult and complex issue. ;^)

 Ah HA!!! Now I know why you found the "Good Ship Manatee" interesting
enough to copy! ;-)
bit eimer - 19 Nov 2004 16:28 GMT
To confirm your suspicions, I also have a Fliskits Tres in the queue.  I'm
afraid I've fallen victim to the cluster virus, but what can one do but take
ibuprofen and let it run its course.

Signature

...The Bit Eimer     NAR 84054
"My goal in life is to be the kind of person my cat thinks he is"
[remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me]
--------------------------------------------------------------

>>Not sold on ANYTHING yet.  Still in data collection mode.
>>
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>  Ah HA!!! Now I know why you found the "Good Ship Manatee" interesting
> enough to copy! ;-)
Mfreptiles - 19 Nov 2004 03:23 GMT
>So where can one see and/or obtain one (online or in the real world)?  Where
>is Binder Design physically located (couldn't determine from his website)?

Sorry, we haven't updated the website in awhile to include the new retainers.
The official rollout on these hasn't happened yet, but is coming soon.  These
have been available to local NW rocketeers as I refine the design.  Anybody
that can't wait and wants one now, feel free to phone us.

Thanks,
Mike Fisher
Binder Design
http://binderdesign.com
(503) 581-3180
Jeffrey L. Miller - 19 Nov 2004 22:58 GMT
Without a doubt, Aeropack makes a great motor retainer to fit both PML and
Kraft based mounts. A little pricey, but worth every penny.

> Am getting ready to build my first G-size rocket (LOC Weasel-29) and am not
> sure of the pros/cons of various engine retaining systems (beyond just
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> [remove keinewurst and reverse letters in domain to email me]
> --------------------------------------------------------------
Mike Siedle - 20 Nov 2004 08:44 GMT
Build the Weasel as a 38 mm rocket and use the slimline for retention. Then
use a slimline 38-29 adapter for 29 mm flights.

My $.02

Mike Siedle
TRA L2

> Am getting ready to build my first G-size rocket (LOC Weasel-29) and am not
> sure of the pros/cons of various engine retaining systems (beyond just
> masking tape, which has me leary).
>
> Any advice or comments?
 
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