Model Forum / General / Rockets / May 2007

Immediately after use, baby wipes and baby-bottle cleaners.

If they're caked up because they weren't cleaned right away, I've heard
that gun cleaning fluids work well (but I've not used them myself).
I've used baby wipes repeatedly on some minor 'caked on' stuff with good
results.

David Erbas-White

OK everyone, I'm only going to tout this stuff once. If you want to
try it, you will be amazed. If you don't, no skin off my nose.

       Spray-On brand T.F.E. spray. Teflon spray in an aerosol can. Spray a
coat on your case, closures, and liner. Wait a few seconds for it to dry,
coat again, and let dry again. Assemble per manufacturer's instructions,
applying grease only to the o-rings as necessary. Fly. Recover. Disassemble
motor, (you might have to wipe the little ring of grease inside the case
where the o-ring was seated with a moist towelette or a baby wipe) wipe case
and closures with a dry towel, spray again with T.F.E. Done. Works on AT
loads, as well as CTI. I don't fly Animal or Loki motors, so I can't say if
it will work there. But it beats scrubbing cases and closures for hours.

       Sold by Grainger's under their catalog number 2W757 for about $6 or
$7 a can. Cheaper by the case.

       Use it. Or don't. I don't care. Just don't give me any crap about
it.

James

rock in rodeo <paul@junglevision.com> wrote in news:1180279547.270696.283790
@a26g2000pre.googlegroups.com:

The spiffy thing about Pro38 hardware is that it comes out of the rocket
virtually clean. The plastic reload liner generally remains unbreached, and
the inside of the casing is pristine.

I have had some issues with plastic filings being shaved off the nozzle
threads and getting lodged in the casing threads. I use a dental pick to make
sure the valleys of the threads are clear for the next reload.

Having said all that, I have had an instance or two of partial burn through
of the Pro38 reload liner. It's amounted to nothing more than a smudge on the
inside of the casing wall, which is easily wiped off.

I know that some folks use plain white vinegar to give their other hardware a  
quick dunk. It softens the accumulated gunk. I've also heard that it's
critical to clean that acetic acid off the hardware in short order, or you
risk etching the annodized coating.

ScottE

The solvents used for cleaning gun barrells works fine, but actually
its overkill, unless you have a motor thats really been "nasty-fied".
Personally, I like J Marino's idea, with the Teflon spray. After all,

"An ounce of prevention beats a pound of cure (..but a trash bag is
the trump card...)"
Jack Kevorkian

Bob Kreese